spaceworm

Hi Dave, when is the Fairview Church RC Flea Market? I always liked that event; maybe see you there. BTW Gary is a member of FARCC in Thornburg.

Did you get the Farmall pictures, it is not there anymore, maybe in winter storage.

Very Best Regards to You and Yours.

Sincerely, Richard

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Here is the announcement I got. Sorry about getting the name wrong.

Hi Everyone, I hope everyone is off to a great New Year and looking forward to spring and a warm flying season. We have our Annual swap meet coming up on March 5th from 9 till 12 with our indoor fun fly to follow. The location remains the same, which is Fairmount Christian Church on 6502 Creighton rd. in Mechanicsville Va. 23111. Admission is $5 and tables are $10 and include 1 admission. Setup for table renters begins at 8am. To participate in the indoor fun fly you need an AMA membership and there is a $10 fee. You can find more info at www.hanoverrc.org
Please help spread the word to your club members, thanks in advance. I've attached a flyer if you have a hobby store or bulletin board at your field to post it.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Cougar, are you bragging or complaining? I have to agree with you the last few years have had some pretty weird weather.

Ruffinit

Is there a way to tell the difference between a Saito 150 and a 180 without taking it apart?

This motor I'm looking at is being listed as a 180 but the plate on the side of the motor is missing. Its a clean motor with good compression and its being sold at a good price. I just cant get past the missing plate. I need to know 100% that its a 180. I don't want or need a 150. I know there is a slight weight difference so I could weigh the motor. Has anybody got the listed weights when they weighed a Saito motor? The more items to confirm its a 180 the better.
Thanks
Richie

speed-panzer

My Feedback: (1)

Hi,

what prop size do you recommend for the Saito FA 300T-TDP, for a fast airplane of less than 20lbs?
What rpm should I expect?

Thanks
Dominik

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Prop recommendations, page 19

http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/SAIT...oke_Manual.pdf

Rudolph Hart

Something x ten i run a 23x10 menz on the fg57 around the same weight fast plane.

Ruffinit (is that an aussie name for 'flash as a black rat with a gold tooth?) sr has some info a few posts back on your question watch out for the photography tho,bloody shocking only dave beats 'em.

SrTelemaster150

I would prop the engine for about 6000 RPM static. A "fast" air frame will allow the prop to unload in the air so you would want to prop it well below maximum RPM.

A 22 x 8 will get you about 7000 static. That would be good for a Spacewalker or Cub that will have high drag.

I would think a 20 x 14 would be a good place to start for a streamlined air frame.

My guess would be that static RPM would be about 6300 & it should unwind to 7500 or more in the air & do close to 100 MPH.

speed-panzer

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for your input.

Yes I read in the manual what prop sizes Saito tells, but I was afraid most of those recommendations are just as you write for a slow Piper Cub or similar - whatever "Sport" or "Scale" means.

22 x 8 giving 7000 static is a good value to start from, I would aim to stay below 8.000 in full speed flight.
For that fast plane which I have in mind I´d rather go for at least 10" pitch or even maybe 12", so I think 20" diameter would be correct.
A 20 x 14 might be a little too much...? Did anyone try a carbon prop like a Mejzlik?

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Richie, check out the specs in the link below. the 150 is 10 grams heavier than the 180.


http://saito-engines.info/specifications.html

SrTelemaster150

If you want thrust stay with a larger diameter/lower pitch. If you want speed go with a smaller diameter W/as much pitch as you can while still maintaining enough thrust to get off the ground W/O a long take off roll.

Also, with a lot of pitch you might have trouble getting the speed scrubbed off for landing unless you have flaps to create drag.

SrTelemaster150

When the engine is fully assembled, the crankcase of the FA-150 will measure about 3/16" from the edge of the back plate to the cylinder base deck. The FA-180 will be nearly 1/4".

Here they are stripped. (FA-180 on the left)

Ruffinit

Sr Tel, Thanks
I can see the difference in the photo. Will have to check that dimension.

Also, does the 180 have a rib at the bottom of the crankcase whereas the 150 does not? I see something in your photo that looks like a rib possibly coming from the front of the crankcase.

The motor is a 180A if that has any affect.

SrTelemaster150

They both have ribs. However, the profile of the FA-150 case is flush with the back plate while the FA-180 bulges out to allow clearance for the slightly longer stroke & the larger big end on the connecting rod.

Lay a straight edge along the bottom of the case next to the rib. If it is flush W/the back plate it is an FA-150. The FA-180 will leave some space between the straight edge & the back plate.

If you look very closely at the picture above you can barely see the slight bulge in the FA-180 case.

Ruffinit

I think with those two conditions plus weighing it, I will be able to positively confirm whether its a 150 or a 180.

Thank you,
Richie

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Okey dokey Pete, this Saito .65 is arriving Monday, it's an early airbleed unit with a funny looking muffler. Question, should I get the standard 12mm cast muffler or the revised version, tank pressure on the .65 might be better with the standard one. Note that it already has a Fox Miracle plug in it.

Rudolph Hart

A photo from the other side would be good dave,you have far more experience with those carbys than i do,they took some getting used to and you gave good advice many years ago when i first bought my little 30.The muffler looks better to me than the later cast versions.I've since changed my mind about tank pressure vs none,two different types of tune required and if you do a lot of aerobatics as i do then tank pressure is more reliable.Middle of summer here and it's hosing down,unusually humid.It's been very dry all last year and the dams are less than half full so we are a bit parched,does'nt normally rain during summer.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

These are the sellers pictures, it's missing an exhaust pushrod sleeve, a new set is included. I'll have something to play with. Here is a test of that very engine. Note throttle arm attachment. And, goody, goody, it has 10.5 to 1 compression.

http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...o%20FA-65.html

SrTelemaster150

You can get one of these from HERE for $38.78 shipped.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Dan, I just may have one of those in my muffler drawer, there are three .65 tests at Scepter Flight, this one says the engine may have 12.7 to 1 compression, lets hope.

http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...-65%20(2).html

http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...o%20FA-65.html

SrTelemaster150

You can get children's medicine dose syringes at the local drug store. They are calibrated in CCs. If you use ATF & are careful to not fill above the glow plug hole, you can find out exactly what the combustion chamber volume is. I used on to verify that the FA-180 chamber is indeed 3.4 CC..

I;m not sure if you know the formula but take the chamber volume (cv) + the displacement (d) divided by the chamber volume.(cv+d)/cv. Equals static compression ratio.

You can reverse calculate to see what cv would be needed by dividing displacement by the compression ratio -1. d/(cr-1) I

In this case 10.627/11.7 = .91cc for 12.7:1 cr

For 1-.5:1 cr 10.627/9.5 = 1.12cc cv

SrTelemaster150

Here you go Dave.



They usually will give them away. At the most they will cast about $.15 each.

FNQFLYER

Dave, you should send that 65 to me (I'll pay the postage) you can REALLY find a better one elsewhere you know. Seriously thought, assuming it is ok inside you have a gem. It is the version most of us O/t fliers here in OZ look for. Most on the market here are worn out and require extensive repair to get them back in any sort of realistic condition. Re the muffler, it is the best one for the 65, fits inside cowls and is the better of those on offer for performance. I have been known to buy broken 50's and 65's just for those mufflers. Re the carby, is great for performance (either duration or Texaco) and is one of the few Saito carbies that is capable of being used in either drag racing (duration) or economy (Texaco) events. Enjoy it.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Dan, I can do some serious cyphering with that stuff, I copied and saved the important parts. I posted a response to you earlier but it didn't take.

FNQ, good to hear it s a winner. I'm sure I have TurboHeader out there, it's the same as the .80 TH with a small baffle in it. I'm pretty sure I can scrounge up a plane that would be iffy for a .40 and put it to work. Enjoy it, I will.

Rudolph Hart

Trev please read this attach from dave,i have a saito 182 manual and it reads nothing like the above,were you right about the different manuals produced?

Thanks for posting them dave.