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Old 02-02-2016, 09:14 PM
  #30926  
p3arljam
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Originally Posted by the pope
Hi there P3 there is so much "meat " on that mount that u could file , grind a flat spot for the nut to sit flat and drill , tap etc all the way through .Or you could use it how it is and just check now and again for the tightness . Cheers the pope
I think i will grind some off but why would they make the mount with an angle where you cant put a nut?
Old 02-02-2016, 10:17 PM
  #30927  
the pope
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They do it all the time especially with plastic ones . Don't stress just go with either way and it will fine . You could also add a bit of sealant , ca to help it stay tight . cheers
Old 02-03-2016, 04:39 AM
  #30928  
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Also Jam, I would lose the washers on top of the engines mounting lug, they take up thread space and serve no useful purpose.
Old 02-03-2016, 04:42 AM
  #30929  
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Originally Posted by p3arljam
I need some opinions I am finishing up my Cub with a Saito 100 and i used the engine mount that i got with the engine. It is a metal mount with tapped holes for the bolts. The bolts do not go all the way thru because the top side of the mount is on an angle with no way to put a lock nut . The engine feels secure should i try it like this with a ground test and why is the top side made with an angle?
Pearl i've had skinnier supplied plastic mounts that look like yours and at first i thought it was just an asian sense of humour,they work fine don't get the 5" soft start grinder with cutoff wheel out yet.You don't even have to do the screws up to tight on those one's.You have concerns so bench mount the engine and run a couple of tanks thru it.Stainless bolts lock up real good in aluminium over time so don't overtighten.Post a pic of the plane so we can talk you into fitting a bigger saito single in it
Old 02-03-2016, 05:15 AM
  #30930  
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Originally Posted by p3arljam
I need some opinions I am finishing up my Cub with a Saito 100 and i used the engine mount that i got with the engine. It is a metal mount with tapped holes for the bolts. The bolts do not go all the way thru because the top side of the mount is on an angle with no way to put a lock nut . The engine feels secure should i try it like this with a ground test and why is the top side made with an angle?


Originally Posted by p3arljam
I think i will grind some off but why would they make the mount with an angle where you cant put a nut?
The mount beams are angled to put as much material as possible at the area that has the most stress with out adding unnecessary weight where it isn't needed.

Just use lock washers under the screw heads & back that up with some blue Loc-tite 242.

All you will accomplish by grinding flats is making stress risers at the points where you ground the mount thus weakening it..

Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 02-03-2016 at 05:27 AM.
Old 02-03-2016, 07:46 AM
  #30931  
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Originally Posted by SrTelemaster150
The mount beams are angled to put as much material as possible at the area that has the most stress with out adding unnecessary weight where it isn't needed.

Just use lock washers under the screw heads & back that up with some blue Loc-tite 242.

All you will accomplish by grinding flats is making stress risers at the points where you ground the mount thus weakening it..
Serious ? Im sure they will be just fine if u grind flat spots on them . Ive never had a plastic one fail let alone one with the amount of metal in it as these ones have . Maybe if you were trying to bolt a 350 chevy engine to it but a 100 saito , get real ! You luv to over complicate things for no good reason .
Old 02-03-2016, 07:59 AM
  #30932  
p3arljam
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I think i have started a fire in this thread my apologies this is the first mount i have used without having nuts on the top end of the bolt.
Old 02-03-2016, 08:00 AM
  #30933  
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I will admit I would drill thru the legs use longer screw, Loctite, a lock washer under the screw head, and a lock nut/Nylock nut on the far end (without grinding a flat spot). Maybe I'm being paranoid but I haven't had an engine shake loose yet.
Old 02-03-2016, 08:01 AM
  #30934  
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Originally Posted by p3arljam
I think i have started a fire in this thread my apologies this is the first mount i have used without having nuts on the top end of the bolt.
Don't sweat it I get some of the best ideas worth stealing that way!
Old 02-03-2016, 08:25 AM
  #30935  
Jim Oliver
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Clean threads with alcohol, add VERY small drop of BLUE Locktite per screw wait 24 hrs. and go fly
Old 02-03-2016, 09:01 AM
  #30936  
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I've never had to use loctite on engine mount bolts on a glow engine . They haven't fallen off yet , l have used self tapping screws on a 54 four stroke into a plastic mount with good results as well . Haven't tried on larger engines but !! Don't worry about fire ring up anyone, some people just grind my gears and S . Telly is one of them ! If its not going on ad nauseum about ignition bla bla bla its making a paper plane sound like building the space shuttle ! Unfortunalty he wont get to read this as Im on his ignore list . Wonder why ? Cheers
Old 02-03-2016, 09:02 AM
  #30937  
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I use no washers and no Loctite, they won't come loose, honest.
Old 02-03-2016, 10:09 AM
  #30938  
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Chances oft the bolts backing out of that mount are slim, but if you want added security, just use longer bolts, and nylock nuts. Once the bolt passes through the mount, put the nut over it and hold it in place until the bolt starts to thread in, then tighten the bolt, if done right, the angle of the mount will be against one flat of the nut, and that along with the nylon insert will keep the bolt in place.
Old 02-03-2016, 10:14 AM
  #30939  
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Originally Posted by p3arljam
I need some opinions I am finishing up my Cub with a Saito 100 and i used the engine mount that i got with the engine. It is a metal mount with tapped holes for the bolts. The bolts do not go all the way thru because the top side of the mount is on an angle with no way to put a lock nut . The engine feels secure should i try it like this with a ground test and why is the top side made with an angle?
Loktite is your friend!
Old 02-03-2016, 04:27 PM
  #30940  
Hobbsy
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Dan, I got the wrist pin in the ,65 loose, I made a small press using my 3" MicroMark vice, a 6x32 bolt and 1/4" hardwood block. It moved about .125" and then came loose. It now floats easily in the rod end and the wrist pin bores. It wasn't stuck all that hard, just too hard for fingers.
Old 02-04-2016, 04:45 AM
  #30941  
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Popey stop drinkin so much coffee i hate loctite
Old 02-04-2016, 06:23 AM
  #30942  
FlyerInOKC
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Originally Posted by Old Fart
Popey stop drinkin so much coffee i hate loctite
I know it's dark like coffee but are you sure its just coffee?
Old 02-04-2016, 10:13 AM
  #30943  
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Bit o Irish you might say
Old 02-04-2016, 01:29 PM
  #30944  
p3arljam
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The good news Great Planes Cub with a Saito 100 is finished. The bad news the prop and nut came off two times on ground test. The engine is inverted and i have 2 line tank so i fill thru the carb line . I have an inverted saito 72 on my decathlon and never have this problem. I may have a little room to raise the tank but not much. The other issue is since the GP Cub has a recessed firewall it is almost impossible to remove the glow plug. At this point i am not sure what the best option is. I always turn the prop over by hand before trying to start it to make sure there is no hydro lock and both times the prop moved freely until i used my starter and the prop and nut came off both times from some serious backfire. What do you guys think i should do remount the engine on its side or any other suggestions.

Thanks
Old 02-04-2016, 01:40 PM
  #30945  
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Sounds more like an engine issue than a tank issue if its backfiring. My Saito 100 will start with a back flip, so guessing on yours its probably too lean on the low speed setting. If the tank is too high it will flood the engine, too low and it will lean out under a half tank, but knowing that airframe, I am guessing the tank CL is just above the bar of the carb with the engine inverted.

Tune the engine with a half tank of fuel before doing anything else. The lower level of fuel will set the mixture better than with a full tank, as you can be too lean at WOT with a half tank and stall out the lower the level goes.
Old 02-04-2016, 01:47 PM
  #30946  
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Originally Posted by acdii
Sounds more like an engine issue than a tank issue if its backfiring. My Saito 100 will start with a back flip, so guessing on yours its probably too lean on the low speed setting. If the tank is too high it will flood the engine, too low and it will lean out under a half tank, but knowing that airframe, I am guessing the tank CL is just above the bar of the carb with the engine inverted.

Tune the engine with a half tank of fuel before doing anything else. The lower level of fuel will set the mixture better than with a full tank, as you can be too lean at WOT with a half tank and stall out the lower the level goes.

I took this engine to the field when i first bought it 2 months ago and bench ran it with a friend of mine who is really good with the nitro engines . We tested it up right and set the low and high speed and it ran like a champ.This is not a new engine but it is great shape and ran smoothly when we bench ran it. I did not know i was going to mount it inverted or i would have bench ran it inverted.
Old 02-04-2016, 03:57 PM
  #30947  
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Originally Posted by Old Fart
Popey stop drinkin so much coffee i hate loctite
Stop it ! Remember O.F. , loctite is a modeling product not something u snort . No wonder u dont like it , it clogs up your sinuses ! cheers
Old 02-04-2016, 04:00 PM
  #30948  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
I know it's dark like coffee but are you sure its just coffee?
Dont u start too . Remember its just grog until its been blessed and then its holy wine . I luv religion . Cheers
Old 02-05-2016, 05:29 AM
  #30949  
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Originally Posted by the pope
Dont u start too . Remember its just grog until its been blessed and then its holy wine . I luv religion . Cheers
Does this mean if I get my beer blessed first I can deduct it as a religious expense?
Old 02-05-2016, 06:21 AM
  #30950  
vertical grimmace
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Saito question: On the FG 30 Gasser, what is the starting procedure for hand propping? Or do you just have to use an electric starter with it?

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