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Old 02-26-2016, 12:04 PM
  #31126  
FlyerInOKC
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The length is a bit of a challenge, it only has 2 7/16" from the firewall to the front edge of the cowling and a box firewall would move everything back negating the weight gain. I'll be hanged if I would lengthen the nose. A FA-40A puts right where the original 1971 ST .60 engine (I got one of these in my collection) would set. The suggested engine was the old bolt on head ST and there are nowhere near what is produced today.
Old 02-27-2016, 02:56 AM
  #31127  
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I agree wholeheartedly okc.Most arf's are designed to accept the heavier fourstroke if you make the effort when installing the engine (saito 82 in a blackhorse os46ax size decathlon in this case) to back it up in the engine mounts so the carby is about 1mm off the firewall.You'll have to cut a vertical slot for the throttle cable in the firewall so it does'nt bind on an obstruction,like the firewall for instance.It does'nt hurt to put the battery pack down the back a bit if you have to,the 82 has more than enough performance for that airframe.2and7 sixteen measurments sound like the old pommie cash and measuring system,drives you nuts unless you are an eccentric i'm not givin up type of person and like it.Everyone else has moved on to metric and some of them drive on the left side of the road too,except the odd japanese tourist driving a toyota torago ten people mover van,how come you only meet them briefly on corners? we don't have enough of those here when you ride a bike because our state is mostly flat so you can see disaster coming from a long way away.
Old 02-27-2016, 07:31 PM
  #31128  
odie002
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All,

I have an issue with a Saito 220. I bought it new about 5 years ago and ran several tanks of fuel through it on a test stand to break it in. Since I didn't have a plane to put it on, I squirted corrosion-X in the crank case and set it under the bench where it remained until today. So today I ran it on the test stand and noticed a lot of black goo in the breather tube and in the tank. I pulled the back cover and everything looked good except for the back cover which had noticeable wear for a relatively new engine. The engine has not been dropped or abused. What do you think?
Old 02-28-2016, 01:03 AM
  #31129  
Rudolph Hart
 
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Odie you are saying the crankshaft is rubbing against the plastic backplate? you should be able to hear that.Saito's seem to vary a bit on how much running in they like and a bit of grey goo is normal.I have three 82's and one of them is a standout.Right from the start it wanted to pull revs and consistantly out performs the other two in the same type of airframe.

I ran my saito 220 in about 3 years ago and fitted it to a 72" percival mew gull which i hav'nt finished or flown so hope i don't have that problem.The cowl is off so if no one comes up with a better answer i can pull the backplate on mine and have a look if you like and post a photo.If it sounds ok run some more fuel through it,hungry buggers ain't they?

Dave likes corrosion x so maybe he can sooth the nerves a bit mate.
Old 02-28-2016, 04:21 AM
  #31130  
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Originally Posted by blw View Post
The Saito 56 may be just right for you. I would lean more towards the extra power for windy days, etc. The weight up front would help you out too.
Ok i'd go for a 62 or an 82 at that weight and drag

If you fly an old ww1 a/c what is the nicest looking prop would you choose to suit? you already spent heaps of bucks on the saito for sound and performance so would you go for a ducks nuts apc or settle on the well known mas classic series? i think most people buy them to complement the in flight look and sound of the saito.The red and white midget mustang(115 15x8 mas classic) looks mean when you can't see the prop in flight just the white tips and on approach it seems like they take up half the wingspan.

Okc i've got a plastic series two q tip 14x10 mas prop off the old mustang.Since i'm a spraypainter who uses an airbrush i'm going to woodgrain it and post a photo in two days time,it will be a look i would like on an sopwith camel for example,no copper end plates yet but might do that.
Old 02-28-2016, 04:29 AM
  #31131  
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Od, this is a 2.20 I used to own and as you can see the CX keeps things shiny and clean. I regret that the back plate is not in this picture. Do you have picture of the back plate thanks.
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Old 02-28-2016, 04:44 PM
  #31132  
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Originally Posted by odie002 View Post
All,

I have an issue with a Saito 220. I bought it new about 5 years ago and ran several tanks of fuel through it on a test stand to break it in. Since I didn't have a plane to put it on, I squirted corrosion-X in the crank case and set it under the bench where it remained until today. So today I ran it on the test stand and noticed a lot of black goo in the breather tube and in the tank. I pulled the back cover and everything looked good except for the back cover which had noticeable wear for a relatively new engine. The engine has not been dropped or abused. What do you think?
Is there wear, or just evidence of the rod sliding across the surface?
Old 02-28-2016, 04:51 PM
  #31133  
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Thanks Old Fart, Dave & SrTele for responding. The problem appears to be the connecting rod rubbing the back cover. I can feel a slight groove near the center of the back cover. I didn't notice any unusually sounds or scraping.
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Last edited by odie002; 02-28-2016 at 04:54 PM.
Old 02-28-2016, 05:30 PM
  #31134  
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Originally Posted by odie002 View Post

Thanks Old Fart, Dave & SrTele for responding. The problem appears to be the connecting rod rubbing the back cover. I can feel a slight groove near the center of the back cover. I didn't notice any unusually sounds or scraping.
The black goo is likely the aluminum back cover wear particles. Is/was there a gasket on the cover? It looks like the wear was from using an electric starter which pushed the conrod against the back cover during start up. Once started the prop thrust should pull the conrod forward away from the back cover. If it is rubbing even after starting, there may be a clearance issue, but a gasket or a thicker one may take care of the problem. Good luck.
Old 02-28-2016, 05:55 PM
  #31135  
odie002
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Yes there is a gasket on the back cover but it's very thin. I noticed the connecting rod slides past the end of the crank shaft pin about 1/16 inch and overall play of about 1/8 inch. Is that much movement normal?
Old 02-28-2016, 05:58 PM
  #31136  
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Yeah she was very thirsty during break-in but not too bad now. Old Fart that is a very unique side car that you have.

Last edited by odie002; 02-28-2016 at 06:01 PM.
Old 02-28-2016, 06:15 PM
  #31137  
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Note that there are metal flakes all over the place in there better check where they came from. The rod would not scratch the backplate like that, it would rub smooth places.
Old 02-29-2016, 01:14 AM
  #31138  
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Odie turn the backplate round and refit it,no clearance probs then just kidding.That's not my sidecar it's an old joke because barry was threatening to change it for me originally it was a picture of my ducati gt1000.Re your 220 they are odd looking marks as dave says,have you filed the end of the conrod? mine is smooth.Do you hand start richard has a point but the pattern of the marks is odd.Since it does not matter which way you refit the backplate would that explain the pattern?

Ok guys in the past we have shown blinged up rocker covers(remember the finned anodized ones)so only fair to show a wood grain prop i did today.Reason that happened was i got lazy and cheated.Right now i'm woodgraining a 49 ford single spinner dash and door trims so i put the prop in with it and used the same colours,anyway here it is.

ps the white dots are sanding dust off the job next to it
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Last edited by Rudolph Hart; 02-29-2016 at 01:34 AM. Reason: more info
Old 02-29-2016, 03:04 AM
  #31139  
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Pete, that's going to be a good looking prop. On the 2.20 the crankpin has not touched the backplate, so the crank position is right where it belongs. For and aft speaking of course.
Old 02-29-2016, 04:40 AM
  #31140  
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Originally Posted by spaceworm View Post
The black goo is likely the aluminum back cover wear particles. Is/was there a gasket on the cover? It looks like the wear was from using an electric starter which pushed the conrod against the back cover during start up. Once started the prop thrust should pull the conrod forward away from the back cover. If it is rubbing even after starting, there may be a clearance issue, but a gasket or a thicker one may take care of the problem. Good luck.
Unless the bearings are worn, the crank should not be pushed back when using an electric starter. The conrod floats on the journal & there is nothing to keep it from contacting the back plate. The FA-450R3D has a Teflon button to keep the conrod from doing that. Single cylinder Saitos don't.
Old 02-29-2016, 08:15 AM
  #31141  
Jim Oliver
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Saito newbie here----but, is there any chance the rod could have been installed backwards?

Meaning, is the chamfered side of the crankpin opening facing aft instead of forward?

Looks like the bottom end of the rod has "scuff" marks on it..........
Old 02-29-2016, 11:04 AM
  #31142  
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Originally Posted by Old Fart View Post
Odie turn the backplate round and refit it,no clearance probs then just kidding.That's not my sidecar it's an old joke because barry was threatening to change it for me originally it was a picture of my ducati gt1000.Re your 220 they are odd looking marks as dave says,have you filed the end of the conrod? mine is smooth.Do you hand start richard has a point but the pattern of the marks is odd.Since it does not matter which way you refit the backplate would that explain the pattern?

Ok guys in the past we have shown blinged up rocker covers(remember the finned anodized ones)so only fair to show a wood grain prop i did today.Reason that happened was i got lazy and cheated.Right now i'm woodgraining a 49 ford single spinner dash and door trims so i put the prop in with it and used the same colours,anyway here it is.

ps the white dots are sanding dust off the job next to it
Nice work! Looks like real wood. Now you just have to make it look "scale". LOL
Old 03-01-2016, 12:53 AM
  #31143  
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Who would have thought , old farts got wood !
Old 03-01-2016, 01:37 AM
  #31144  
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It's called "crack a woody" over here popey and you know it.

Yeh i might do one the same colour as the old camel prop(we have one in a museum near here)complete with painted on copper leading edges and rivets/screws.

Yeh dave it would be interesting to find out what made that type of pattern on the backplate.
Old 03-01-2016, 05:08 AM
  #31145  
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Saito rods have a dot or a dimple, if you will stamped about the center of the rod, it goes toward the front so the relief for the crankpin filet is toward the flywheel. I can't see his dot so I think the rod orientation is correct.
Old 03-01-2016, 06:35 AM
  #31146  
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Nice but I'll stick with real wood props.
Old 03-01-2016, 09:47 AM
  #31147  
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Nothing better than real wood!


At least thats what she said.
Old 03-01-2016, 04:12 PM
  #31148  
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Not if its only a splinter !
Old 03-01-2016, 05:44 PM
  #31149  
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Well, you know its not the size of the splinter, its how deep it goes in.

I had one that took weeks to get out.

Oh and hard wood is easier to polish than soft wood.
Old 03-01-2016, 06:45 PM
  #31150  
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and I thought I was a sick puppy . i bet the one that took two weeks to get out left you with a limp !

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