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Welcome to Club SAITO !

Old 05-27-2006, 07:45 PM
  #3301  
Ernie Misner
 
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Hi Bill, it's perfectly OK to spend a lot $$$ on a camera and okay to divulge the brand or model. It is almost a necessary "tool" for what you are doing. Point and Shoot to me only meant that it wasn't a EVF (electronic viewfinder) or a DSLR (digital lens reflex) camera? Or perhaps it is one of the latter. My next "tool" for posting pics here on RCU will be the Nikon D200s when it becomes available.

Thanks,

Ernie
Old 05-27-2006, 08:04 PM
  #3302  
loughbd
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Actually the problem is one carb. Like I said each cylinder needs to be set a little different and using two carbs allows you to do that. Nothing man made is exactly the same and that includes model engines. One cylinder will always run a little differently needing a different fuel mixture. Just exactly the same as several engines of the same make and model; say 5 Saito 65 four cycles. No two of them will have the same needle setting because each is a bit different. Just like the two different cylinders on a twin.

That is exactly what Gen Saito said when he gave me the twin carb set ups. I would think he knew what he was talking about. He made them.

One other thing, You said that the original twins didn't have the pump but the ones I bought were the first released in Japan, released before the ones in the US, and they did and according to my friend Ewasa, who owned the local shop in Sasebo, they always had the pumps.

I have set up an OS FT120 to use two carbs and the difference is night and day. One cylinder is always a bit different than the other and using two carbs can solve the problem. It works, I've done it
Old 05-27-2006, 09:40 PM
  #3303  
William Robison
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Bruce:

You are of course correct about the minor (sometimes major) differences from side to side making for fun, even firing notwithstanding. I balance the single carb even fire engines with very precise variations of the valve lash from one side to the other. Perhaps not the best way, but it’s the best way I know.

And I suspect your ft-120 got more gain from decreased intake restriction than it did from having individual adjustments for the cylinders.


Ernie:

I looked at the Nikons, none had even a 10:1 optical zoom, so they were out. The finalists were the Canon S2IS, the Sony DC-H2, and the Panasonic FZ-7. All three look exactly alike other than the labels and controls, they are probably all made in the same factory. One has a “Leica Vario-Elmarit” lens, one has a “Zeiss Vario-Tessar,” and the third just says “Canon.” All three lenses’ specifications have the same number of elements, groups, and apertures. Again, probably just different labels on the same lenses.

I got the FZ-7, seemed to have the best combination of features. Also got two memory cards (2GB) and the A/C adapter. Battery charger was included, but it’s out of camera charging. And a UV filter to protect the lens. I’m going to have to order a 58 mm +diopter lens set, I find the close focus works only in the wide angle setting. Bummer.

Bill.
Old 05-28-2006, 12:45 AM
  #3304  
William Robison
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rlmcnii:

It is the Guzzi. Saw and heard it in 1957 at the Isle of Man TT. I have more pictures, and somewhere a sound clip. If you want more send me an email, we've had enough motorbike here.

Bill.
Old 05-28-2006, 07:47 AM
  #3305  
dfkroft
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Thank you.
Now what do you have for just the FA 90T?
And what am I supposed to do with the 'nozzle' on the back of the engine?' (That is the 'Intake' for the scavenger pump?) Do I hook it up to the 'nozzle' on the exhaust? Or what?
Dave
Old 05-28-2006, 07:58 AM
  #3306  
Hobbsy
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Dave, my 1.30 showed connecting the pump outlet to the rear fitting, the fitting on the engine below the cams just gets a drain hose. The pump forces air into the back and pushes the oil forward past the cams and out.
Old 05-28-2006, 12:26 PM
  #3307  
gibby rice
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HI GUYS I AM AN OLD TIMER, WW2 VET,84YRS OLD AND STILL FLYIN RC.. AM DOWN TO A 20 YR OLD SIG CLIPPED WING 1/4 SCALE SIG CUB WITH A SAITO 150 UP FRONT. IVE BEEN SURFING THE FORUM ABOUT SAITO ENGINES. I HAVE HAD GOOD LUCK SO FAR WITH MINE ALTHO IT HAS NOT GOT A LOT OF HOURS ON IT.. I HAVE HEARD SOME STORIES ABOUT SAITO HAVING PROBLEM S WITH CRANK PIN IN THE CRANKSHAFT??? ARE THESE ISOLATED CASES OR HAVE THEY BEEN SIGNIFICANT? IM THINKING OF GETTING ANOTHER ONE.. THANKS FOR THE INFO GEORGEE
Old 05-28-2006, 12:54 PM
  #3308  
Hobbsy
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I don't believe that issue has ever come up on RCU, my 1.50 is 15 years old and many hours, no problem. Those "I heards" rarely have any credibility.
Old 05-28-2006, 01:08 PM
  #3309  
Hobbsy
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I got the Saito 1.30 twin sorted out today, I chose a 15x8 as the better prop, Saitos recomendations are a little light in my view.

Prop==Graupner 15x8
Fuel==PowerMaster 15%/18% syn/castor blend
Plugs==(4) Fox Miracle plugs
Top rpm===8,390 one click rich each cylinder
Idle 2,370, no glow power.
Two Cline regulators this time, much better. Also used pressure from both mufflers, I have the stuff so why not.
Old 05-28-2006, 01:59 PM
  #3310  
solafein
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Posting your E-mail address is not a good idea. P.M. works well for that. You might want to edit your user name and post(s). Of course you could like opening 100 spam E-mails a day.
Old 05-28-2006, 02:37 PM
  #3311  
JettPilot
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ORIGINAL: William Robison

Jett:

The Saito FA-56 is a good reliable engine, lightly stressed, it will run forever with minimum maintenance.

Bill.
How does this engine idle ? In some threads I hear the OS 52 engine idle and transition better, but then again I have heard that about low speed needle valve issues with the OS 52 that cause problems as the engine gets some hours on it... I like the saito 56 GK a lot better, it looks better and has more power, but is it true that the OS 52 is easier to keep setup, and a more reliable runner ? Having an engine that will run reliably at ALL throttle settings is critical to my application.

Thanks,

JettPilot
Old 05-28-2006, 03:02 PM
  #3312  
loughbd
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

That little nipple in the back is where the pump pulls in air. The pump forces everything in the lower end of the engine forward until it comes to that other little nipple under the from bearing. That's where the crap in the engine leaves the engine. It also makes sure the cam shafts, and bearings are lubricated. Just make sure that rear nipple isn't restricted in anyway.
Old 05-28-2006, 04:29 PM
  #3313  
Hobbsy
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Jett, the .56 is a sewing machine idler, very quiet, very smooth but quick to rev up.

In comparing my Saito 1.25 using the PowerMaster 15% and the same Graupner 15x8 I got 8,990 rpm and a 1,990 rpm idle.
Old 05-28-2006, 07:52 PM
  #3314  
William Robison
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Dave:

DO NOT connect the rear nipple to the muffler port. You want fresh air to blow through the case, the exhaust definitely is not fresh air. It should have a short bit of fuel hose, and a filter stuck in the end. It will be constantly drawing air in, and all the trash floating around. An ordinary fuel filter will be better than nothing, but the Master Airscrew filters can be popped open, then you can put a small bit of foam in it as a better filter. As Bruce said, the nipple on the lower front is the outlet, just run a hose to a good spot.

gibby rice:

Welcome sir. I have put you in as member number 297. Now turn your Caps Lock off, please.

Jett:

I’ll echo Dave’s comments on the FA-56. You will enjoy it.

All:

I’m really liking the new camera, here are two shots with it. To keep in on “Saito Topic” they are of my US120 with its Saito engine. Both taken from the same spot, both roughly 2600x2100 pixels. Second taken with the zoom Way out. Aint it nice?

Bill.


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Old 05-28-2006, 08:53 PM
  #3315  
jasonlacey
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Could somebody please turn off the "Welome to club Saito" response message to my joining Ive had 100s of them, in fact twice though the entire membership list! (But it is nice to feel so welcome!) Thanks , may your plug or plugs glow ever brighter.
Old 05-28-2006, 09:13 PM
  #3316  
William Robison
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Jason:

If youo don't want the posting notices you have to turn it off yourself. Just go to the top of the page here and click on "Remove Subscription" just below the yellow bar.

Bill.
Old 05-28-2006, 10:01 PM
  #3317  
johnS555
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Hey Bill, are those box end wrenches in the cupboard, for working on your FA-56...???????? JohnS555
Old 05-28-2006, 10:14 PM
  #3318  
William Robison
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John:

Actually, those you see are for working on the FA-30 engines. I have a larger set for the FA-56.

Haw.

Those wrenches date from my time with Ryder where they expected me to work as a line mechanic between conducting training sessions. It was a good idea as it kept me familiar with the equipment we were running.

If you look closely you can see the Ryder sign near the top of the right door face.

Bill.

>>EDIT to add picture. wr.
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Old 05-29-2006, 12:04 AM
  #3319  
Ernie Misner
 
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Bill, seeing your large US 120 reminded me of the rudder/pitch coupling problem that my little US 40 with Saito 82 has. Mine is the older version without the balanced rudder. It pitches UP violently with rudder inputs! Any hint of your doing that? Nice pictures by the way!

Thanks,

Ernie
Old 05-29-2006, 12:09 AM
  #3320  
Kmot
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Congrats on your new Saito camera, Bill! [sm=thumbup.gif]
Old 05-29-2006, 12:20 AM
  #3321  
piper28
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I got the FZ-7, seemed to have the best combination of features.
Hmph, and here I was thinking from your comments that you spent serious money on your camera . I'm trying to convince the wife to let me spend $3k for one. (Naturally this explains one reason I never seem to have money for engines or planes).

Hmm, to keep this Saito related, any suggestions on anything special to do to a 1.00 that may not have been stored very well before starting it up? Don't know if I should be looking out for rust anywhere before trying to fire it up. Far as I know, the engine only has an hour or two of time on it.

I know one thing I've seen references to in this thread is checking the valve clearance. Where does one get the proper tool to measure this?
Old 05-29-2006, 01:01 AM
  #3322  
William Robison
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Ernie:

Perhaps I just haven’t noticed it’s being nasty, but the only place I notice any amount of rudder coupling on the US120 (older, heavy version) is in knife edge. My normal flying always uses coordinated rudder and aileron for turns, ranging to opposite rudder and aileron for a slip. Don’t know why yours would be any different.

Thanks for the kind words about the pictures, I am still being impressed by the camera.

Tom:

Thanks, so far I’m really pleased with the new camera.

Piper:


In any case pull the rocker covers and douse the rockers and valve stems, fill the push rod tubes. Use your preferred after run oil for this.

If the engine feels “Grindy” when you turn the crank, pull the carb and back plate, squirt some solvent into the rear bearing and clean it as well as you can. If you ran it with a castor blend fuel it may clean out fine. Before you put it back together dump an ounce or so of after run oil in the case with the crank pointed down, this will wet the cam and tappets. Reinstall the back plate without dumping the oil.

If it feels smooth, then go ahead, run the engine and see what happens. May be fine, but there could be rust in the bearings. If yes, you’ll hear their noise before long.

Excerpt from “Saito Notes:”

Valve adjustment
You need 1.5 mm and 2 mm Allen wrenches, and a 4 mm box wrench. An open end 4 mm will work, but the box is safer.

The Allen wrench sets I use most commonly are the Bondhus 10687 ball drivers, and the 12592 folding set. These or equivalents are easily available from your LHS or mail order.

The box wrench set I recommend is from Sears, their number 42339 set of ten combination wrenches, approximately $15 from your local store.

Feeler gauge? I remembered an old trick we used on fuel mechanical governors to set the air gap - the cellophane from a cigarette pack. It's almost all 0.001" thick. Tried it in a Saito, works great.

Double it to get the 0.002" needed, use it as your feeler and adjust the valve. After adjustment if it slides out with no drag it's too loose. A little drag is fine, if the valve is too tight the cellophane tears. Fail safe adjustment and checking.

Concerning your “Serious Money.” When you buy a camera just to take pictures of toy engines, and once in a while toy planes at the field, $500 for the camera and accessories IS serious money. At least I think it is. I have really blown a wad on cameras three times. Bought a Bolex H-16 Rex5 with two 400 foot mags, a wild motor and a sync motor with two battery packs, an Angenieux 12-120 lens, and Halliburton cases for the lot. Then a Sony three tube video camera and its separate CCU, and a ½” reel-to-reel recorder. Got a Canon 12-120 lens for that one, with motorized zoon, iris, and focus Everything battery operated, but it would also run from house power. Finally, there was my Nikon, bought with a batch of accessory lenses. I still have the Nikon outfit, and I came out OK when I sold the Bolex and its kit. I literally GAVE the Sony stuff away. Why? Camcorders made it totally obsolete, nobody wanted to lug three heavy pieces around and bother with reel tapes. Bought the video stuff way too soon. That’s one of the reasons I waited so long for a decent digital camera – just a short time ago the same capabilities would have reached your $3K price.

Bill.
Old 05-29-2006, 01:04 AM
  #3323  
loughbd
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Feeler gages work just fine and are available at any auto parts store. If you want to check for rust just pull off the back plate and look inside.
Old 05-29-2006, 09:38 AM
  #3324  
mstcitabria
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Could anyone please tell me the correct procedure to get some afterrun oil into my Saito 100. Tried feeding some into the crankcase vent and it squirts it right back out. Any help really appreciated.................mstcitabria
Old 05-29-2006, 10:00 AM
  #3325  
dfkroft
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

As Bruce said, the nipple on the lower front is the outlet, just run a hose to a good spot.

I was using this to pressurize the fuel tank. Is that ok?
Dave

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