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The FA-100T, probably the closest relative of your FA-130 uses the garden variety FA-50 style cam housing . Perhaps the FA-65 housing will fit your FA-130.. SAI6533A
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Hobbsy, I didn't see your post about the cam cover until now, I have an extra right side cover for the 130,, the pump was broke off too but the case is fine, and it looks as if some one tried to pull out what was left in it from the pump's housing, but if you plug the hole, or weld up the hole, it should work fine, do you want it ?? let me know !!
Jim
Jim
Last edited by the Wasp; 10-02-2017 at 06:58 PM.
Digging under a foundation is never fun, less fun if it's a sewer pipe.
I may get a chance to play the velocity stack game some more today.
I have all this wood to cut into 25" lengths and to split, it came in a Ford L 9000 heaped up,over the top. It keeps my biceps stretching my Tee shirt sleeves, even at 75.
I may get a chance to play the velocity stack game some more today.
I have all this wood to cut into 25" lengths and to split, it came in a Ford L 9000 heaped up,over the top. It keeps my biceps stretching my Tee shirt sleeves, even at 75.
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Thanks Dan and Jim, I am keeping watch to see what the guy gets in the way of help.
Pete, that's a fine looking velocity stack,on that big Saito.
At one time I owned this very Predator 1.20 for several years, the only recommended prop was a 14 x 6 which it would turn at 12,181 rpm. If you tried a conventional 1.20 sized 15x8 prop it would only rev to about 8,000 and knock scarily.
I bought this log lifter so I don't have to saw the ground.
Pete, that's a fine looking velocity stack,on that big Saito.
At one time I owned this very Predator 1.20 for several years, the only recommended prop was a 14 x 6 which it would turn at 12,181 rpm. If you tried a conventional 1.20 sized 15x8 prop it would only rev to about 8,000 and knock scarily.
I bought this log lifter so I don't have to saw the ground.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-03-2017 at 03:31 AM. Reason: Add picture
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Have any of you seen this before, I just opened a new Saito FA 40a, the elbow and the muffler each have a tiny gasket or maybe a retainer to keep the nuts in place during shipping. They are barely visible.
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AC, do you have an FA .40a, that sure is the muffler for one.
FIO, I just put the muffler on the .40a and left them in place. I am going to break it in now, we'll see what happens.
FIO, I just put the muffler on the .40a and left them in place. I am going to break it in now, we'll see what happens.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-03-2017 at 07:56 AM. Reason: Punctuation correction
No, that muffler was in the box with the 65, they must have switched mufflers by mistake. I have no use of it other than a conversation piece.
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Saito FA .40a break in using my usual 10 minutes at 1,000 rpm increments starting at 4,000 and ending at 8,000 then 15 minutes at 9,500 to use up most of the tank. In 65 minutes I couldn't burn 450 CC's of fuel.No leakage anywhere on the exhaust nor around the back plate.
New Saito FA .40a
Prop===Xoar 11x6
Plug===OS-f
Fuel===Wildcat 10% with 18% full synthetic lube
After 60 minutes run time:
Max rpm=11,130
Idle======2,250
Oh Yeah, one click rich equaled 10,880
And that's it.
New Saito FA .40a
Prop===Xoar 11x6
Plug===OS-f
Fuel===Wildcat 10% with 18% full synthetic lube
After 60 minutes run time:
Max rpm=11,130
Idle======2,250
Oh Yeah, one click rich equaled 10,880
And that's it.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-03-2017 at 11:12 AM. Reason: Fix error
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AC, do you need a muffler for the .65, Thanks
Okey, it's definitely a "nomical" engine, you can tell when an engine comes into,it's own. At about the 25 minute mark the exhaust quieted down and it smoothed out, it was an engine then. You might say that all those parts achieved harmony.
Okey, it's definitely a "nomical" engine, you can tell when an engine comes into,it's own. At about the 25 minute mark the exhaust quieted down and it smoothed out, it was an engine then. You might say that all those parts achieved harmony.
AC, do you need a muffler for the .65, Thanks
Okey, it's definitely a "nomical" engine, you can tell when an engine comes into,it's own. At about the 25 minute mark the exhaust quieted down and it smoothed out, it was an engine then. You might say that all those parts achieved harmony.
Okey, it's definitely a "nomical" engine, you can tell when an engine comes into,it's own. At about the 25 minute mark the exhaust quieted down and it smoothed out, it was an engine then. You might say that all those parts achieved harmony.
Thanks Dan and Jim, I am keeping watch to see what the guy gets in the way of help.
Pete, that's a fine looking velocity stack,on that big Saito.
At one time I owned this very Predator 1.20 for several years, the only recommended prop was a 14 x 6 which it would turn at 12,181 rpm. If you tried a conventional 1.20 sized 15x8 prop it would only rev to about 8,000 and knock scarily.
I bought this log lifter so I don't have to saw the ground.
Pete, that's a fine looking velocity stack,on that big Saito.
At one time I owned this very Predator 1.20 for several years, the only recommended prop was a 14 x 6 which it would turn at 12,181 rpm. If you tried a conventional 1.20 sized 15x8 prop it would only rev to about 8,000 and knock scarily.
I bought this log lifter so I don't have to saw the ground.
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Thanks Pete, it amazes me that I can go online, search for Abitar or Conley and come up with my very own pictures, the cam picture. is,not mine. Abitar moved the carb up to the intake. It gained about 200 rpm doing that.
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The Conley and the Abitar were a good,lesson in using an engine the way it was designed. As I've mentioned before, either would turn a 14x6, (the only prop recommended) at 12,000 plus. But some insisted on trying a 15x8 with which they could barely manage 8,000 and made awful hurting sounds. This was on 10% fuel. They were mechanically quiet on the 14x6 except for the propeller howl. Notice the size of the cam followers, that was so,the valve stem did not have to handle sideways cam forces.
The Conley and the Abitar were a good,lesson in using an engine the way it was designed. As I've mentioned before, either would turn a 14x6, (the only prop recommended) at 12,000 plus. But some insisted on trying a 15x8 with which they could barely manage 8,000 and made awful hurting sounds. This was on 10% fuel. They were mechanically quiet on the 14x6 except for the propeller howl. Notice the size of the cam followers, that was so,the valve stem did not have to handle sideways cam forces.
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I find the manufacturer is usually right so I read and follow the manual on prop size and break in procedures. I have seen a lot of "problem" engines that could be straightened out by going back to the manual and following the manufacturer's instructions. The know-it-alls are great at providing bargain priced engines!
That is so true. My Saito 100 GK is one of those. I put the proper prop on, adjusted the carb the way it should be, and it purrs like a kitten and roars like a lion. The funny part, the guy I got it from said he sent it to Horizon and they couldn't get it running. Took me longer to get the cowl off than to get it to run.
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The Conley and the Abitar were a good,lesson in using an engine the way it was designed. As I've mentioned before, either would turn a 14x6, (the only prop recommended) at 12,000 plus. But some insisted on trying a 15x8 with which they could barely manage 8,000 and made awful hurting sounds. This was on 10% fuel. They were mechanically quiet on the 14x6 except for the propeller howl. Notice the size of the cam followers, that was so,the valve stem did not have to handle sideways cam forces.
I sold that engine to a German collector for more than I had in it. Replaced it in the model with a early HC Saito 1.50 and the growing pains with that engine are a whole other story.
CR