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Old 12-30-2017, 01:14 AM
  #35326  
Rudolph Hart
 
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Originally Posted by Charley
Damn! He's on the wrong side of the road!

CR
Not over here.I thought sr would have been all over that pic because this guy bluffs goodhearted drivers well,i've seen him around here quite a bit and i think the full body is to hide the size of his cojones.

Jim! i'm so glad you put the word saito in the middle of that sentence.Now your paint scheme may sound weird to people not able to see it in their mind but i can,it's part of my job and i only have one comment.As baby boomers some of our best music came from that 60's 70's period and the musicians from back then who are still alive now,freely admit that they had some assistance....

ps will someone post a pic of kmots painted lady the OS 61
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Old 12-30-2017, 03:37 AM
  #35327  
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An OS 61 SF saved from years of neglect. Also a Webra T-4 60 and a Saito early 30 or 40. All done by KMOT.
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Last edited by Hobbsy; 12-30-2017 at 05:39 AM.
Old 12-30-2017, 05:36 AM
  #35328  
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This is a Saito 1.30 that is opened up for an autopsy, (to see for oneself), I already made a new throttle linkage which is very precise and smooth. I have the new cams. The pistons are good, new rings coming. Rebuilding is something I enjoy so I'm having fun. I'm going to paint the cylinders black and have been seeking advice from KMOT. They're not nearly clean enough yet. Two hours in the crock pot on low didn't do the job. Brand new anti freeze too.
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Old 12-30-2017, 06:37 AM
  #35329  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
This is a Saito 1.30 that is opened up for an autopsy, (to see for oneself), I already made a new throttle linkage which is very precise and smooth. I have the new cams. The pistons are good, new rings coming. Rebuilding is something I enjoy so I'm having fun. I'm going to paint the cylinders black and have been seeking advice from KMOT. They're not nearly clean enough yet. Two hours in the crock pot on low didn't do the job. Brand new anti freeze too.
Have the cylinders bead blasted, but make sure you plug ALL blind holes with toothpicks or you will have one helluva time getting the beads out. I use semi-gloss engine enamel and bake the parts (after they thoroughly air dry) in the oven @ 300F for an hour.
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Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 12-30-2017 at 10:10 AM.
Old 12-30-2017, 07:12 AM
  #35330  
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Thanks Dan every little bit of advice helps, our company has all left so I have some time now to play. I am debating about the pump, whether to remove it or keep it. The pin that operates the pump wore a significant groove in the cam.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 12-30-2017 at 07:16 AM.
Old 12-30-2017, 10:09 AM
  #35331  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Thanks Dan every little bit of advice helps, our company has all left so I have some time now to play. I am debating about the pump, whether to remove it or keep it. The pin that operates the pump wore a significant groove in the cam.
Since single crank journal twins do not have a varying crankcase volume like singles or opposed twins. The pump is used to vent the case. As long as there is a drain and you are meticulous with your ARO, there shouldn't be a problem W/O the pump.
Old 12-30-2017, 10:27 AM
  #35332  
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The only reason I consider it is that the last version of the 100-T had no pump. So, I figure the 1.30 would be OK too.

PS, the 1.30 pictured above is the dual plug version. I need to order a couple more OS=f's.
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Last edited by Hobbsy; 12-30-2017 at 10:31 AM.
Old 12-30-2017, 05:57 PM
  #35333  
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OF,,,,, ^my^ red and black color scheme (page1413)

Jim
Old 12-30-2017, 06:05 PM
  #35334  
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Jim, this red and black has an antiquey look to it. I like it.
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Old 12-30-2017, 06:11 PM
  #35335  
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has an antiquey look to it
yes it does, it should be on an old bird

can you give me more info on how you guys to setup "ARO", maybe a photo ??

Jim
Old 12-31-2017, 01:31 AM
  #35336  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
An OS 61 SF saved from years of neglect. Also a Webra T-4 60 and a Saito early 30 or 40. All done by KMOT.
If you wanted to do a really scale flat twin for an OLD aircraft could you make a saito 130 or 182 flat twin look similar to that by removing the pushrod and tappet covers etc plus a bit of polishing and painting ?

Jim i'll share some secret squirrel ARO (after run oil) lowdown with you.I use a few cans of emu export to wash down the castrol castor after a good saito bench running session,you'll never get bound up my friend
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Old 12-31-2017, 01:35 AM
  #35337  
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ps it's also known as "bush chook" here as that's what we call emu's....a common party trick (which i've just been doing with some motorcycle racing mates) is to 'shotgun a bush chook"
Old 12-31-2017, 04:49 AM
  #35338  
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Jim, the 100 you're receiving, maybe tomorrow, still has the vent on the back. I left about 3.5"of line on it and plugged. Just keep,it accessible and inject your ARO there, some will come out the front vent and tell you it's all,the way through. Or for that matter you can put it in the front. Either way just turn it over a few times to spread it around.
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Last edited by Hobbsy; 12-31-2017 at 04:52 AM.
Old 12-31-2017, 06:15 AM
  #35339  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
The only reason I consider it is that the last version of the 100-T had no pump. So, I figure the 1.30 would be OK too.

PS, the 1.30 pictured above is the dual plug version. I need to order a couple more OS=f's.
What, no CDI?

C&H makes a system for uneven fire twins ya know.

I'd bet you could get a good "lope" @ idle with CDI.
Old 12-31-2017, 06:53 PM
  #35340  
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LOL OK, ARO LOL

Jim
Old 01-01-2018, 10:24 AM
  #35341  
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-30F on the St Regis River this morning! Luckily, no wind and sunny.
Old 01-01-2018, 10:36 AM
  #35342  
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+7 here this AM, I did some measuring on the 1.30 pistons, at straight up, perpendicular to cylinders center lines the pistons are 3/16" closer together than when the crankpin is at TDC. Not much pumping action there but combined with the blow by there would be some venting.
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Last edited by Hobbsy; 01-01-2018 at 10:38 AM.
Old 01-01-2018, 10:42 AM
  #35343  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
I did some measuring on the 1.30 pistons, at straight up, perpendicular to cylinders center lines the pistons are 3/16" closer together than when the crankpin is at TDC.
That's due to the rod angle. The shorter the rod, the more variance there would be since the rod length would be the hypotenuse of the right triangle @ 90 degrees.
Old 01-01-2018, 10:46 AM
  #35344  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
I did some measuring on the 1.30 pistons, at straight up, perpendicular to cylinders center lines the pistons are 3/16" closer together than when the crankpin is at TDC. Not much pumping action there but combined with the blow by there would be some venting.
Originally Posted by SrTelemaster150
That's due to the rod angle. The shorter the rod, the more variance there would be since the rod length would be the hypotenuse of the right triangle @ 90 degrees.
The only thing that would stay constant regardless of rod length would be the vertical leg in your picture which would represent 1/2 of the stroke.
Old 01-02-2018, 08:56 AM
  #35345  
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I had an engine that took about 12 hours in the 3 speed crockpot my wife gave me.Low heat is just past the too hot to touch temp. It sure was clean when I took it out. I usually use antifreeze twice, maybe 3 times before getting rid of it. About 6 hours is the quickest cleaning for me.

I have an adjustable speed sonic cleaner that I prefer to use first on smaller pieces. It really works in hot tap water. Adding some kind of liquid soap makes it much better.

Dan, I never did bead blasting but I did what was called sand texting back then. It gave metal that satin texture look. That is the non-destructive method. We also did silica sand and carborundum for eating away paint and Bondo. The motorcycle gas tank business was good and sometimes got lucky enough for a frame. The prices the company charged were criminal imo, and I still made peanuts when they got the good jobs.
Old 01-02-2018, 06:08 PM
  #35346  
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Dave, I received my engine tonight, it's beautiful, I can't wait to start it, I read whereby a guy had a 120 4St on his 4-Star 60 so I don't feel the 100T is too heavy, the plane is a real floater anyway,
thanks Dave, she's beautiful !!

Jim
Old 01-03-2018, 03:32 AM
  #35347  
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I'm glad you're pleased with it, we're having your kind of weather here right now, I have to bust up some wood today. I'm burning it up pretty fast.
Old 01-04-2018, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by SrTelemaster150
-30F on the St Regis River this morning! Luckily, no wind and sunny.
That's the conditions the russian barefoot world water skiing championship team practice all year on

Dave get serious about cleaning the saito cylinder before painting if you want the paint to stay on there for a long time.Depending on humidity,lets assume it's bad,don't leave raw aluminium no matter how high it's silicon content exposed to the air for more than three hours,sometimes less,before coating it with a suitable epoxy etch primer.

ps jim have you kicked the 130 in the guts yet...and did dave send you his agricultural inches graduated foot long steel ruler so you could flick the prop?
Old 01-04-2018, 07:43 AM
  #35349  
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I received a can of the prep paint yesterday in the mail.

The directions say that it removes oil and wax residue. We'll see. Jim can no longer kick the 1.30 because I now have it. Some kind of brain thingy made me want to paint the cylinders black.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 01-04-2018 at 01:09 PM.
Old 01-04-2018, 09:32 AM
  #35350  
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rude post

Last edited by blw; 01-04-2018 at 10:21 AM.

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