Welcome to Club SAITO !

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Well at least he didn't go Nucular.
Aww heck I have no idea HOW to spell it the way he said it! Wonder how he would pronounce Saito now that I think about it.
I need a new engine stand so I can fire up some of my unmounted engines. Pretty sure I have a Saito or two somewhere. I know I have a few gas 4 strokes to run in, and a couple YS to get running. Not enough time to make one either.

I need a new engine stand so I can fire up some of my unmounted engines. Pretty sure I have a Saito or two somewhere. I know I have a few gas 4 strokes to run in, and a couple YS to get running. Not enough time to make one either.

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I still say you can't beat the one I posted in thread 37126.

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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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I did a couple of things to the new 1.20 DP, I removed the choke and replaced the m3 x 8mm back plate bolts with m3 x 10 mm bolts. I made a blind tap and extended the threads. the holes were plenty deep. The 8mm bolts did not have much engagement, especially where the carb mount bracket bolted in the top back plate bolts. The black O-ring replaced the choke slide and compresses by about 1/16". Note unusual top end of the intake tube. It is a cast aluminum tube.




All this talk about pretty and ugly mufflers, I got the urge to make one when I got home from work. This one is made from three pieces; inlet, outlet and tube.
The tube has an internal shoulder at each end. The inlet and outlet pieces are a .002" interference fit. The tube is heated and the ends pressed into place, one end at a time. The muffler goes back in the lathe, this time in a 6 jaw chuck to control any tendency to crush the thin tube. A polished, hardnened tool is now used to roll-form, or spin the end crimps. This results in a leak free , very solid joint.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 07-23-2018 at 03:48 PM. Reason: Auto save lost part

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That's a good story Jim. Jaguar? I'm going to call them.
I ordered a specialized FM radio antenna from England. I had bought one before and it is so good I decided to stack second antenna above it. "Stacking" increases gain by a whole lot. Both barely fit in my attic. The company was late shipping. Production of more was a month away and I waited. Never complained and they mailed it overnight from England. It was on the front door the next day after I emailed them to check on production. They didn't charge postage either.
I ordered a specialized FM radio antenna from England. I had bought one before and it is so good I decided to stack second antenna above it. "Stacking" increases gain by a whole lot. Both barely fit in my attic. The company was late shipping. Production of more was a month away and I waited. Never complained and they mailed it overnight from England. It was on the front door the next day after I emailed them to check on production. They didn't charge postage either.
Last edited by blw; 07-23-2018 at 03:45 PM.


Not much on TV after dinner so I wandered back out to the shop. The old Saito FA-62 that had spent her entire life pulling around a very old Senior Kadet happened to be sitting on the bench. She still looks great after all these years and always been reliable as a Guzzi. I figured to make her a bit of bling. No suitable brass tube and this is a special engine so I went the extra mile and turned a special stack for a special engine. This one was turned from a piece of 1/2" aluminum bar. 





Last edited by Jesse Open; 07-23-2018 at 04:27 PM. Reason: Text was lost.


Lot's of mumbo
Really nice muffler you just made gary,i'd like to hear what the engine sounds like with that muffler.Buick/olds must have designed some really good engines over the years.Back in 1980 gmh/holden australia released (or it could have escaped) the new holden commodore,also called a dunny door here.They modified the european opel body and suspension to suit our conditions and used an all alloy buick v6,it was quite quick and they also used the tried and true 253 and 308 v8's.Peter brock was a famous racing driver here with a close association to holden and they supplied factory v8 commodores off the line which he modified,will post a pic.
Last edited by Rudolph Hart; 07-23-2018 at 10:25 PM.

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That's a good story Jim. Jaguar? I'm going to call them
I covered 6 servos wires today, full length, you got to remove the plugs of course,
the 1/8 tubing is too small for JR's servo wire, you will only get the 1/8 to go on about an inch, but I could get it to go on HiTech's wire but not to the point I could cover the complete length, I got it on to about 85% of the length (and it took a while to do so), then I could not get it to go on any farther,
the 3/16 will work, but it wont tighten up as much on the wire as other brands I have had in the past, but still the 3/16 will work and protect the wire good.
the 3/16 will not cover the plug if you want to use Shrink to hold two plugs together..
I got the medium wall thickness, so I am wondering if a thinner wall tubing will shrink down tighter on the wires.. see the link below..
Gary, that's another cool muffler you made there, you do great work !! BTW, I Pm'ed you, did you get it ?
Heat Shrink Tubing - Jaguar Industries
Jim

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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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I remember that 215 V-8, I was replacing a utility pole out in the boons back of Wellsburg, W.Va. and a guy was replacing the head gasket on one of those. He was using a 30" breaker bar to tighten down the head bolts, I went over and said, man you should be using a torque wrench to do that. He said, oh no, I know how to torque bolts. the next day I was replacing the next pole, I heard the car start and go down the road, about 20 minutes later he came back and you could see antifreeze, smoke and water vapor blowing out of the gap beside the hood and you could hear air being pumped in and out where the head gasket had blown. Yep, he was an expert torquer.
Speaking of pumping, I flipped the new 1.20DP with no plugs in it and the pumping action generates quite a bit drag and wheezes loudly. It's going to be history as soon as a new back plate arrives.
Speaking of pumping, I flipped the new 1.20DP with no plugs in it and the pumping action generates quite a bit drag and wheezes loudly. It's going to be history as soon as a new back plate arrives.


Jaguar Heat Shrink Tubing,,
I covered 6 servos wires today, full length, you got to remove the plugs of course,
the 1/8 tubing is too small for JR's servo wire, you will only get the 1/8 to go on about an inch, but I could get it to go on HiTech's wire but not to the point I could cover the complete length, I got it on to about 85% of the length (and it took a while to do so), then I could not get it to go on any farther,
the 3/16 will work, but it wont tighten up as much on the wire as other brands I have had in the past, but still the 3/16 will work and protect the wire good.
the 3/16 will not cover the plug if you want to use Shrink to hold two plugs together..
I got the medium wall thickness, so I am wondering if a thinner wall tubing will shrink down tighter on the wires.. see the link below..
Gary, that's another cool muffler you made there, you do great work !! BTW, I Pm'ed you, did you get it ?
Heat Shrink Tubing - Jaguar Industries
Jim
I covered 6 servos wires today, full length, you got to remove the plugs of course,
the 1/8 tubing is too small for JR's servo wire, you will only get the 1/8 to go on about an inch, but I could get it to go on HiTech's wire but not to the point I could cover the complete length, I got it on to about 85% of the length (and it took a while to do so), then I could not get it to go on any farther,
the 3/16 will work, but it wont tighten up as much on the wire as other brands I have had in the past, but still the 3/16 will work and protect the wire good.
the 3/16 will not cover the plug if you want to use Shrink to hold two plugs together..
I got the medium wall thickness, so I am wondering if a thinner wall tubing will shrink down tighter on the wires.. see the link below..
Gary, that's another cool muffler you made there, you do great work !! BTW, I Pm'ed you, did you get it ?
Heat Shrink Tubing - Jaguar Industries
Jim
Generally, the thicker wall tube holds firmest.They also make heat shrink with a glue lining for connections you want to hold very firmly.
Yes, I did get your PM and responded a few days ago. Seems the PM system suffers from a few quirks. I can try again.
Thanks for the muffler comments. I will try to get a video when it is up and running on the plane.
RH,
That aluminum V8 has had a very long life, dating back to the early 1960s! A very solid running engine that saw a lot of use in the Range Rover for years.

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oops ! I forgot to say that the V-stack is really slick too, if you had a Tape controlled lathe you could make 500 of them (for different engines) in 3 days and then set back and sell them LOL
as for the PM they must be doing some work on the site the last few days,, last night the site was dead slow, and today when I clicked "quote" the window I type in was moved from the bottom to the top
Jim
when all else fails, give it to a friend or hit with a hammer and buy new
Last edited by the Wasp; 07-24-2018 at 08:38 AM. Reason: I edited it so you would read this and think it was stupid, but I didn't

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as for shrinking the Shrink, I have always used a hair dryer, well I tried my covering iron and it works slick, I found for this stuff I didn't even need a sock, and the iron stayed clean
Jim
I didn't even need a sock
Jim
I didn't even need a sock
Last edited by the Wasp; 07-24-2018 at 08:55 AM. Reason: I added something, BTW, it's 12:55 not 9:54

My Feedback: (6)

oops ! I forgot to say that the V-stack is really slick too, if you had a Tape controlled lathe you could make 500 of them (for different engines) in 3 days and then set back and sell them LOL
as for the PM they must be doing some work on the site the last few days,, last night the site was dead slow, and today when I clicked "quote" the window I type in was moved from the bottom to the top
Jim
when all else fails, give it to a friend or hit with a hammer and buy new
as for the PM they must be doing some work on the site the last few days,, last night the site was dead slow, and today when I clicked "quote" the window I type in was moved from the bottom to the top
Jim
when all else fails, give it to a friend or hit with a hammer and buy new


Note the tank badge screws have been removed yet the badge remains in place.Yes,there's a massive amount of hardware shop silicone behind it,every spraypainters natural enemy,it's like kryptonite to superman.
I remember that 215 V-8, I was replacing a utility pole out in the boons back of Wellsburg, W.Va. and a guy was replacing the head gasket on one of those. He was using a 30" breaker bar to tighten down the head bolts, I went over and said, man you should be using a torque wrench to do that. He said, oh no, I know how to torque bolts. the next day I was replacing the next pole, I heard the car start and go down the road, about 20 minutes later he came back and you could see antifreeze, smoke and water vapor blowing out of the gap beside the hood and you could hear air being pumped in and out where the head gasket had blown. Yep, he was an expert torquer.
Speaking of pumping, I flipped the new 1.20DP with no plugs in it and the pumping action generates quite a bit drag and wheezes loudly. It's going to be history as soon as a new back plate arrives.
Speaking of pumping, I flipped the new 1.20DP with no plugs in it and the pumping action generates quite a bit drag and wheezes loudly. It's going to be history as soon as a new back plate arrives.
Gary that's very,very nice landing gear.We've got a last of the bsa pre-unit engined rocket gold star 650 twin in the shop for repair,make around 50hp.

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J-Tec in cowl muffler on Saito 1.20 S DP.
Nice servo hatches Jim, did you make them, Thanks
Pete, i don't think that they made the 1.20 DP without the pump, the Saito engine code for the 1.20 DP is N and it says, FA-120S DP/Pump. I never saw a J-Tec muffler for Saitos before. With a 9.5 mm carb it certainly doesn't need a pump unless they were trying to attract some pattern guys.