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Old 03-28-2019, 03:36 PM
  #39701  
Hobbsy
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Yep, it'll highly compress your wallet.
Yep, they actually sold a few, not to me though. The oldest mention of it seem to have been in 2009. The 30 is a great, sweet little engine.
Old 03-28-2019, 03:52 PM
  #39702  
Quikturn
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I already have a few engines I can’t bring myself to fuel and run.
Old 03-28-2019, 03:52 PM
  #39703  
acdii
 
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OOh getting my pair of FG-30B on Tuesday! Those will be a perfect fit on the B-25.
Old 03-28-2019, 04:26 PM
  #39704  
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Originally Posted by acdii
OOh getting my pair of FG-30B on Tuesday! Those will be a perfect fit on the B-25.
How about a pic or two of the B-25.
Old 03-28-2019, 04:27 PM
  #39705  
the Wasp
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Quickturn, glad your mom got the help she needed.

Jim, 2 wrongs don't make a right but three lefts do.

LOL I wish I could tell my father that LOL

Jim
Old 03-28-2019, 04:40 PM
  #39706  
the Wasp
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I wonder if you have to burn gold plated fuel in that engine

Jim
Old 03-28-2019, 05:10 PM
  #39707  
Glowgeek
 
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Originally Posted by Captcrunch44
The 180HC doesn’t like glow plugs WOW!!!


What % nitro did you run it with?
Old 03-28-2019, 07:05 PM
  #39708  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
What % nitro did you run it with?
30% nitro
18% oil
Old 03-29-2019, 12:40 AM
  #39709  
Rudolph Hart
 
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Pete, that I do not know, I suspect they are, the big block push rods appear to have hardened inserts in the ends and are hollow, the small block push rods may be solid. I may cut a small one in two and peak. I don't think I have any extra large block push rods. Placing the push rod in a small steel vice may bleed enough heat away to be safe.

Saito 120 Big Block pushrods
Sorry dave i should have made it clearer i was trying to be funny by adding that i would gas weld the pushrod halves back together using number eight fencing wire for welding rod,my boo boo.The reason i did that is that while it's every saito engine mans choice whether he modifies the engine or not,i think it get's a bit far fetched sometimes just an opinion.

Quik,nice pics and all the best for your mum.

Capt as a vague comparison to your fa180hc my fa182td was swinging a mas classic 18x6 at 8500 on 10% after five tankfuls from new,mentioned it years ago here to dave.Have you seen sr's prop figures for his fa180hc + other letters? a few years back he challenged me to a prop run,his fa180 against my fa220 and i was kidding him that my 220 would give his hi strung 180 a lazy woop arse kickin,lot's of fun.

Last edited by Rudolph Hart; 03-29-2019 at 12:43 AM.
Old 03-29-2019, 02:50 AM
  #39710  
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Originally Posted by Captcrunch44

30% nitro
18% oil
30% nitro in a high compression 180? Try FAI fuel (0% nitro) or maybe up to 10%. Having high compression advances the ignition timing and doesn't require high nitro content. You could be experiencing detonation using 30%. Check your glow plug for a deformed coil and/or little bumps on the wire.

Things that advance ignition timing in glow engines:

Higher compression
Hotter glow plug
Higher nitro
Higher oil content
Higher prop load
Old 03-29-2019, 03:10 AM
  #39711  
Hobbsy
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
So I was able to find some time early this morning to cc the pig. Took 3 readings for all measurements and averaged. Largest deviation in volumetric measurements was .15 cc.

Combustion Chamber: 1.80 cc
Glow Plug (Type F): .030 cc
Mechanical Swept Vol: 13.97 cc
Effective Swept Vol: 11.4 cc (58° ABDC)

Mechanical Compression: 8.634:1
Effective Compression: 7.229:1

More later,
Lonnie
Shouldn't the swept volume read .82 cu. in. or 13.44 cc.
Old 03-29-2019, 03:16 AM
  #39712  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Shouldn't the swept volume read .82 cu. in. or 13.44 cc.
Bore: 29mm
Stroke: 20.4mm

Mech swept vol: 13.474 cc

Should I cc the pig a fourth time?
Old 03-29-2019, 03:55 AM
  #39713  
Jesse Open
 
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Bore: 29mm
Stroke: 20.4mm

Mech swept vol: 13.474 cc

Should I cc the pig a fourth time?
Yep

LOL
Old 03-29-2019, 04:06 AM
  #39714  
Hobbsy
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I do this just for fun, using the hard dimensions in inches, not rounding up or down:
Bore====1.14
Radius===.57
Radius squared==.3249 then times Pi times stroke
.3249 x .31416 x .8031496===.819779 cubic inch or 13.43377 cc.

I think I did it correctly
Old 03-29-2019, 04:18 AM
  #39715  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
I do this just for fun, using the hard dimensions in inches, not rounding up or down:
Bore====1.14
Radius===.57
Radius squared==.3249 then times Pi times stroke
.3249 x .31416 x .8031496===.819779 cubic inch or 13.43377 cc.

I think I did it correctly
Try it with mm, you may be losing something in conversion

Bore: 29mm
Stroke: 20.4mm
14.5 x 14.5 x 3.1415 x 20.4 = 13,474 cmm ÷ 1000 = 13.474 cc
Old 03-29-2019, 04:20 AM
  #39716  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
Yep

LOL
Pffft, FINE! I'll cc the pig again, lol
Old 03-29-2019, 04:31 AM
  #39717  
Hobbsy
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Like I said, it was for fun, not challenging your work
Old 03-29-2019, 04:42 AM
  #39718  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Like I said, it was for fun, not challenging your work
Oh I know Dave, this whole thing is just for fun. My expectation for an 82 to peak an apc 14x6 at 9800 on 15% nitro is probably just a pipe dream. Won't stop me from trying and It'll take a while for me to lose interest.
Old 03-29-2019, 04:45 AM
  #39719  
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[QUOTE=Glowgeek;12514123]30% nitro in a high compression 180? Try FAI fuel (0% nitro) or maybe up to 10%. Having high compression advances the ignition timing and doesn't require high nitro content. You could be experiencing detonation using 30%. Check your glow plug for a deformed coil and/or little bumps on the wire.

Things that advance ignition timing in glow engines:

Higher compression
Hotter glow plug
Higher nitro
Higher oil content
Higher prop load[/


ok
Old 03-29-2019, 04:55 AM
  #39720  
Hobbsy
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And when it tries to run backwards for about a millionth of a second when going forward at 9,000 rpm you'll know it got too advanced. Bad things happen very quickly. Usually memorable things. I know you've experienced that, who hasn't. My old 11.24 to 1 compression Saito 150 has shed blades on two separated occasions,my neighbor handed one to me over the fence that he found in his garden when we lived in Alexandria, Va.
Old 03-29-2019, 05:46 AM
  #39721  
SrTelemaster150
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Originally Posted by the Wasp
speed the video forward to 1:10[B]

https://youtu.be/RjaosX63DkM?t=68[/Bi
Jim
WHOA, WHOA, WHOA, hold your horses there pardner.

You are comparing apples to oranges.

THAT is a SB Chevy that has an adjustable rocker pivot mount. That video does not apply to any engine that has a fixed rocker pivot like our Saitos, or SB Chryslers Fords etc.


Originally Posted by the Wasp
yes of course, I guess I should have said, if you do both mods at the same time you will not see the difference between the outcomes of each mod..



I don't know about the 150 and 180, but the rockers on the 82 and 100 are rather level at zero lift, but .032" is not much,

you know after you guys started talking about increasing compression I had that thought about my 100, but she is all together, and the 125 carb will help fill the C-chamber anyways

Jim
While the geometry does change, the net valve lift will not change a significant amount when the change is at the pushrod/rocker interface . As long as there is sufficient adjustment available, there would be little benefit in changing pushrod length.
Old 03-29-2019, 06:12 AM
  #39722  
Captcrunch44
 
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
And when it tries to run backwards for about a millionth of a second when going forward at 9,000 rpm you'll know it got too advanced. Bad things happen very quickly. Usually memorable things. I know you've experienced that, who hasn't. My old 11.24 to 1 compression Saito 150 has shed blades on two separated occasions,my neighbor handed one to me over the fence that he found in his garden when we lived in Alexandria, Va.
talking about shedding props
the first pop on the 180HC took that double nutted prop of like I didn’t even tighten the nuts
So like SRTELEMASTER150 said the best way to run the 180HC is with CH ignition.
The retard on the timeing helps a lot to get it started.
Old 03-29-2019, 08:16 AM
  #39723  
SrTelemaster150
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Originally Posted by Captcrunch44


talking about shedding props
the first pop on the 180HC took that double nutted prop of like I didn’t even tighten the nuts
So like SRTELEMASTER150 said the best way to run the 180HC is with CH ignition.
The retard on the timeing helps a lot to get it started.
Yes indeed the FA-180HC is an evil, diabolical, psychotic, prop spitting monster when one attempts to to run it on GI.

CDI, on the other hand, turns it into an obedient docile workhorse.


Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 03-29-2019 at 08:20 AM.
Old 03-29-2019, 08:39 AM
  #39724  
FlyerInOKC
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Purrs like a kitten!
Old 03-29-2019, 08:54 AM
  #39725  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
Purrs like a kitten!
yes they do I love the two on CH ignition.
I will have to get another ignition for this 180
and I might get one for the 150S GK


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