Welcome to Club SAITO !
04-01-2019, 01:37 AM
Since jim keeps posting two strokes you're on the pillion seat for life.
Yep, that is the same type sheet wax we use. We do metal stampings. Been at it for over 50 years.
We buy our sheet wax at a large foundry supply house. Foundries use patterns. When I entered the trade, the patterns were usually wood, often woods like mahogany , cherry etc. Now we use synthetic resins and urethane foams for that purpose. In the old days mostly hand mill work, now CNC. That is the trade.
The cast epoxy is but one material. We have acrylics, urethane, silicones etc on hand as well.
Rapid prototype parts from a variety of materials.
Same uses that we employ, same company. Likely the same product
We buy our sheet wax at a large foundry supply house. Foundries use patterns. When I entered the trade, the patterns were usually wood, often woods like mahogany , cherry etc. Now we use synthetic resins and urethane foams for that purpose. In the old days mostly hand mill work, now CNC. That is the trade.
The cast epoxy is but one material. We have acrylics, urethane, silicones etc on hand as well.
Rapid prototype parts from a variety of materials.
Same uses that we employ, same company. Likely the same product
ps capt there is a will robison sticky attached to this thread,well worth reading and the guy built brilliant bikes to boot cheers
pps dave still to cold for the fa50?
04-01-2019, 03:12 AM
Senior Member
04-01-2019, 08:18 AM
Senior Member
I took the picture while hunting Black Bear in the Adirondacks. It has the suspension modified upgrading to a Rockshox Recon fork with Pop-Lock handlebar lockout control and a Fox RP-123 shock for the 4-link rear suspension.
The rest of the bike had pretty sound design components even if a bit heavy. It now has over 4K miles in it.
That's my full European power spec 8X57IS rifle leaning against the bike. 2700 fps with a 200 gr .323 Speer Hotrcor bullet. Hits like the hammer of Thor.
As for the Highlander? Very comfortable and reliable but the brakes are woefully under built. After driving a 2006 Dodge Charger Daytona and a 2006 VW Jetta, the pedal effort required to stop the 4600# sled seemed a bit excessive.
At 42K miles the front pads went to metal. We usually got 60K or more before the pads even get near that on any of the cars that we had driven previously. We are going to upgrade to the 4Runner next time and keep a closer eye on the front brake pads.The 4Runner is more along the lines of what we need anyway. They come standard with a hitch receiver and a roof rack. To get a roof rack on the Highlander you have to spend $10K more in options that we don't need or want.
04-01-2019, 10:03 AM
I have a bias towards Specialized bikes. The first nice bike I purchased and still own is a 1984 Specialized Sequoia. It’s so old that it was made in Japan. It’s all original except for the seat, brake levers and of course tires. Last year I purchased a specialized Roubaix Comp. I wasn’t planning on spending so much on a bicycle but it was marked down considerably and happened to be my size. It is remarkable how far the technology has come along over the years.
04-01-2019, 11:57 AM
My Feedback: (1)
This is my full suspension mountain bike.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/ADF2PQR.jpg?
I took the picture while hunting Black Bear in the Adirondacks. It has the suspension modified upgrading to a Rockshox Recon fork with Pop-Lock handlebar lockout control and a Fox RP-123 shock for the 4-link rear suspension.
The rest of the bike had pretty sound design components even if a bit heavy. It now has over 4K miles in it.
That's my full European power spec 8X57IS rifle leaning against the bike. 2700 fps with a 200 gr .323 Speer Hotrcor bullet. Hits like the hammer of Thor.
As for the Highlander? Very comfortable and reliable but the brakes are woefully under built. After driving a 2006 Dodge Charger Daytona and a 2006 VW Jetta, the pedal effort required to stop the 4600# sled seemed a bit excessive.
At 42K miles the front pads went to metal. We usually got 60K or more before the pads even get near that on any of the cars that we had driven previously. We are going to upgrade to the 4Runner next time and keep a closer eye on the front brake pads.The 4Runner is more along the lines of what we need anyway. They come standard with a hitch receiver and a roof rack. To get a roof rack on the Highlander you have to spend $10K more in options that we don't need or want.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/ADF2PQR.jpg?
I took the picture while hunting Black Bear in the Adirondacks. It has the suspension modified upgrading to a Rockshox Recon fork with Pop-Lock handlebar lockout control and a Fox RP-123 shock for the 4-link rear suspension.
The rest of the bike had pretty sound design components even if a bit heavy. It now has over 4K miles in it.
That's my full European power spec 8X57IS rifle leaning against the bike. 2700 fps with a 200 gr .323 Speer Hotrcor bullet. Hits like the hammer of Thor.
As for the Highlander? Very comfortable and reliable but the brakes are woefully under built. After driving a 2006 Dodge Charger Daytona and a 2006 VW Jetta, the pedal effort required to stop the 4600# sled seemed a bit excessive.
At 42K miles the front pads went to metal. We usually got 60K or more before the pads even get near that on any of the cars that we had driven previously. We are going to upgrade to the 4Runner next time and keep a closer eye on the front brake pads.The 4Runner is more along the lines of what we need anyway. They come standard with a hitch receiver and a roof rack. To get a roof rack on the Highlander you have to spend $10K more in options that we don't need or want.
Jim
Saito Engines, they take more strokes
04-01-2019, 12:48 PM
My Feedback: (1)
Since jim keeps posting two strokes you're on the pillion seat for life.
I can see a pattern developing between you and sr tele...keep it up and in the next life you will be riding this and that's all buddy
ps capt there is a will robison sticky attached to this thread,well worth reading and the guy built brilliant bikes to boot cheers
pps dave still to cold for the fa50?
Jim
04-01-2019, 08:14 PM
OK. I finally got the lower end disassembled today. The drive washer was real stubborn to get off. Normally 2 jaw pullers and some heat due the trick but I ruined my el-cheapo puller in the process so I used heat on the drive washer and lightly hammered the crankshaft out. The crankshaft cleaned up real nice but I did find some light pitting in a spot in front of the main bearing. Took a wire wheel to it to smooth it out so I’ll go with it. 
04-02-2019, 01:46 AM
Psssst dave...can you modify the wife's new red car to these specs and report back?..it would take my mind off thinking about those pesky pushbike riders hogging all the good mountain corners at 5mph and five wide buddy,and can you let us know if you got round to running the fa50 yet
ps and you tell myra to drive real fast please
04-02-2019, 03:38 AM
Yeah, that's the ticket Gary. Nice puller and I like how it presses against the beveled collet instead of the crankshaft. Nothing more aggravating than having the whole works pull off instead of just the drive washer popping off when using a standard jaw puller.
SrTele, that 3 jaw puller is pretty sweet too. My modified 2 jaw puller doesn't have that squeezer mechanism. I ground a profile into the jaw tips to seat nicely in the drive washer groove. So far no slipping but it's bound to happen.
SrTele, that 3 jaw puller is pretty sweet too. My modified 2 jaw puller doesn't have that squeezer mechanism. I ground a profile into the jaw tips to seat nicely in the drive washer groove. So far no slipping but it's bound to happen.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 04-02-2019 at 03:44 AM.
04-02-2019, 04:03 AM
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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OK. I finally got the lower end disassembled today. The drive washer was real stubborn to get off. Normally 2 jaw pullers and some heat due the trick but I ruined my el-cheapo puller in the process so I used heat on the drive washer and lightly hammered the crankshaft out. The crankshaft cleaned up real nice but I did find some light pitting in a spot in front of the main bearing. Took a wire wheel to it to smooth it out so I’ll go with it.
Posi-Loc 102, by screwing the lower handle down firmly tightening the jaws into the prop driver, it will not damage the prop driver.
https://www.amazon.com/Posi-Lock-Man...s%2C168&sr=8-1
Last edited by Hobbsy; 04-02-2019 at 04:08 AM.
04-02-2019, 04:07 AM
Saito FA82 CR Mod
I decided to take the CR from the stock 8.89:1 up to 10.5:1 as a starting point. Shaved .018" off the case cylinder deck.
A few interesting things to note:
Even though the bottoms of the engine mounting ears were not machined by saito they appear to have been used by saito as a reference surface for machining the cylinder deck. The dial indicator showed only a .0002" variance in plane and that measurement was right next to a cylinder mounting hole. I chalked that up as a bulge from over tightening that cylinder mounting bolt.
The pushrod covers were over compressing the rubber seals so .020" was removed from their length.
The weather sucked here yesterday, cold and very high humidity but I still saw 9300 rpm. 100 rpm up from a previous run on a 60°f low humidity day . Only 1/2 tank of fuel so far after the CR mod. A couple more tanks will tell the whole story.
I've run this engine on cold wet days before and have had no problem getting the engine temps up. On this run with the raised CR the engine never reached normal operating temp even at wot.
More later
A few interesting things to note:
Even though the bottoms of the engine mounting ears were not machined by saito they appear to have been used by saito as a reference surface for machining the cylinder deck. The dial indicator showed only a .0002" variance in plane and that measurement was right next to a cylinder mounting hole. I chalked that up as a bulge from over tightening that cylinder mounting bolt.
The pushrod covers were over compressing the rubber seals so .020" was removed from their length.
The weather sucked here yesterday, cold and very high humidity but I still saw 9300 rpm. 100 rpm up from a previous run on a 60°f low humidity day . Only 1/2 tank of fuel so far after the CR mod. A couple more tanks will tell the whole story.
I've run this engine on cold wet days before and have had no problem getting the engine temps up. On this run with the raised CR the engine never reached normal operating temp even at wot.
More later
Last edited by Glowgeek; 04-02-2019 at 04:21 AM.
04-02-2019, 04:10 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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Give that puller that Gary made any day . Its even shiny and some of the parts are made with 24 carrot gold ! I would be 1st in line to buy one of those . Cheers
04-02-2019, 04:23 AM
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Psssst dave...can you modify the wife's new red car to these specs and report back?..it would take my mind off thinking about those pesky pushbike riders hogging all the good mountain corners at 5mph and five wide buddy,and can you let us know if you got round to running the fa50 yet
ps and you tell myra to drive real fast please
Geri hasn't been allowed to drive for about 8 weeks, her right leg was nearly non functional, therapy has brought it back a long way.
That thing reminds me of a Paul Harvey story from 25 or 30 years ago, an 18 wheeler driver was traveling though Germany, he had not locked the safety catch that prevents the big bar that holds the tail gate closed from sliding out. Bumps and vibration caused it to drift out, eventually it got out far enough it killed a guy walking down the road. A motorist saw this and started flashing his lights and pulling up beside the truck where it was safe. The trucker finally stopped, the motorist told him what he had seen, the trucker made U turn and headed back to the scene, On the way back he killed a second guy, he had gotten so upset that he didn't think to push the bar back in.
I may get to the 50 today.
04-02-2019, 04:29 AM
04-02-2019, 04:54 AM
Yeah, that's the ticket Gary. Nice puller and I like how it presses against the beveled collet instead of the crankshaft. Nothing more aggravating than having the whole works pull off instead of just the drive washer popping off when using a standard jaw puller.
SrTele, that 3 jaw puller is pretty sweet too. My modified 2 jaw puller doesn't have that squeezer mechanism. I ground a profile into the jaw tips to seat nicely in the drive washer groove. So far no slipping but it's bound to happen.
SrTele, that 3 jaw puller is pretty sweet too. My modified 2 jaw puller doesn't have that squeezer mechanism. I ground a profile into the jaw tips to seat nicely in the drive washer groove. So far no slipping but it's bound to happen.
The principle employed is quite a bit different from the Fiz-All type pullers. I have a HUGE collection of pullers on hand. Mostly leftovers from the machine repair days, (Including HEAVY machines/HEAVY pullers) , the automotive machine shop I helped run as part owner, and a lot of motorcycle specific pullers to boot. Many of those were also home made. There is NO chance to make even a slight mark with the full contact brass split collet. The sleeve bearing against the inner taper collet also reduces the required force and better protects the crank nose.
As you know, Doesn't really take a lot of cash to acquire some useful machinery if you kick the bushes and shop well, especially here in the Detroit area. The machines involved in making that puller were a $100 Bridgeport and a $500 Clausing 10 inch lathe.
Far less money involved than a high end chainsaw or a couple of Saito engines! The machines help out with several hobby activities as well. From planes to home made high quality ribbon microphones, to guitar work and gunsmith work. The machines will be here as long as I can move my hands and see to use them!
In fact, I would far rather have a single RC plane and engine and the machines, than 10 or 20 planes and 30 Saito engines. Easy to say however when you have both I guess
Last edited by Jesse Open; 04-02-2019 at 05:02 AM.
04-02-2019, 06:30 AM
OK I have been watching a Greek build an 1/4 scale version of one of my plane projects on YouTube for a while. In the latest installment you get to see what engine he selected. I thought you guys might like to see. Skip to about 23 secs. will show the engine. My 1/5th scale will require me to scare up a Saito .91 or 1.00.
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04-02-2019, 06:49 AM
I'm sure you are not the only one feeling that way. I wonder how many guys are making up a bogus FAA number and putting it on all their airplanes so the locals got a number to look at? I haven't heard a database they can run the numbers through to check them. I think the FAA number is more for the appearance of doing something then doing something worthwhile.
Last edited by FlyerInOKC; 04-02-2019 at 06:52 AM.
