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Old 04-02-2019, 07:22 PM
  #39826  
SrTelemaster150
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Originally Posted by Quikturn

From the looks of that crankshaft, the rear bearing seized and might have spun in the case.

How tight was the fit in the case? If the bearing is not a light press fit in the case, your case might be scrap.
Old 04-02-2019, 07:46 PM
  #39827  
Quikturn
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Originally Posted by SrTelemaster150
From the looks of that crankshaft, the rear bearing seized and might have spun in the case.

How tight was the fit in the case? If the bearing is not a light press fit in the case, your case might be scrap.
Actually the bearing was spinning on the crankshaft not in the case. I think the case is fine. Just need to get a better quality bearings now.
Old 04-03-2019, 01:34 AM
  #39828  
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Originally Posted by Quikturn


Actually the bearing was spinning on the crankshaft not in the case. I think the case is fine. Just need to get a better quality bearings now.

Have you decided which bearing option you'll order from Boca? I was thinking of ordering the $24 high performance C3 fit bearings. They have a plastic retainer and hard chrome balls. Others here have reported having no problems with the $15 standard bearings with metal retainers and hard chrome balls.

Stainless is another option in case you're not a religious user of after run oil however both sets of rc bearings that recently went bad on me were stainless. Just over a gallon of fuel on those and aro was used religiously. I'm wondering if the stainless balls are having problems holding up to the heavier 4 stroke vibrations.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 04-03-2019 at 01:51 AM.
Old 04-03-2019, 01:52 AM
  #39829  
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I am going back to buying name brand only, and only from the local store-front supplier. No more internet purchases. Bought less than half of my bearings online as it was. Never had a problem aside from one batch. That one batch came direct from China , not RCBearings and was absolute garbage.
It also pays to measure ALL new bearings all around and compare to original before trying to install them. Easy enough to do!

Better to know if that inner race is too thin or not.
All about fitting.

Last edited by Jesse Open; 04-03-2019 at 01:55 AM.
Old 04-03-2019, 01:55 AM
  #39830  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
I am going back to buying name brand only, and only from the local store-front supplier. No more internet purchases. Bought less than half of my bearings online as it was. Never had a problem aside from one batch. That one batch came direct from China , not RCBearings and was absolute garbage.
It also pays to measure ALL new bearings all around and compare to original before trying to install them. Easy enough to do!
You mentioned earlier about checking clearances too. Are you measuring the "C fit" as well?

Last edited by Glowgeek; 04-03-2019 at 02:03 AM.
Old 04-03-2019, 02:03 AM
  #39831  
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Just a quick check of relative internal clearances by measuring ID to OD differences with opposing loads.

Mic the OD, ID, inner and outer widths as well. I always preheat the housing and use sized driving arbors when installing bearings. A few carryover practices from the machine repair days.
Old 04-03-2019, 02:29 AM
  #39832  
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Maybe I over tightened the props on these last two engines with failing new bearings. Is it possible to ruin bearings that way? I don't use a torque wrench or anything, just go by feel, but I do tighten the prop nuts fairly aggressively.
Old 04-03-2019, 02:45 AM
  #39833  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Maybe I over tightened the props on these last two engines with failing new bearings. Is it possible to ruin bearings that way? I don't use a torque wrench or anything, just go by feel, but I do tighten the prop nuts fairly aggressively.
well I wouldn’t worry to much about that.
I have a tendency to strong arm my prop nuts too
and myself have not experienced any problems with that. But once again that’s me.
Besides is there even a torque spec for that?
Old 04-03-2019, 02:48 AM
  #39834  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Maybe I over tightened the props on these last two engines with failing new bearings. Is it possible to ruin bearings that way? I don't use a torque wrench or anything, just go by feel, but I do tighten the prop nuts fairly aggressively.
Pretty darn hard to think so. If the internal spaces between the races are properly set up and the bearing races are seated where they belong, the prop nut should make little if any difference.
Old 04-03-2019, 03:43 AM
  #39835  
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Dave my apology to geri,terrible memory for names,some of my conversations are like this

Here's a pic of my fa82 after a bearing change,i use top quality japanese bearings.
Old 04-03-2019, 03:54 AM
  #39836  
Hobbsy
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G'day Pete, is that Lithium Grease I see there, If so, I use it too as assembly grease, it must not be compatible with synthetic lube, it comes out the vent tube in chunks.
Old 04-03-2019, 06:44 AM
  #39837  
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I use white lithium grease but only on new parts, on used parts I use castor for assembly lube.
Old 04-03-2019, 06:46 AM
  #39838  
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I leave castor far away from my engines, it eventually turns into glue.
Old 04-03-2019, 06:50 AM
  #39839  
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Originally Posted by Quikturn

That's a pretty sharp image Joe and I'm not seeing where the inner race of the rear bearing spun. No smears or gouging that I can make out.
Old 04-03-2019, 07:00 AM
  #39840  
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Glo, be careful with those C-3 bearings, I have two here now, not from Boca, that when installed they turn hard. Take them out and they turn fine. They're kind of a waste in four strokes any way.
Old 04-03-2019, 07:13 AM
  #39841  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
I use white lithium grease but only on new parts, on used parts I use castor for assembly lube.
The castor oil is a fine choice for glow engine assembly lube, especially for engines that will be fired up within several months of assembly. Miscible in all the oils we use, provides extreme pressure, high temp protection that is hard for PAG type synthetic oils to match. Castor wets the metal very well. All of these are desirable qualities for assembly lubes. As a running oil mixed with fuel at 2% to 4% you will not see gumming or sticking problems.
No joke
Old 04-03-2019, 07:13 AM
  #39842  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
I leave castor far away from my engines, it eventually turns into glue.
That little bit of castor is washed out pretty quick don't you think? I use 2-3% castor in my fuel anyway. It's ok if you don't, personal preference.
Old 04-03-2019, 07:16 AM
  #39843  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
That's a pretty sharp image Joe and I'm not seeing where the inner race of the rear bearing spun. No smears or gouging that I can make out.
Could be corrosion etching from oil retained moisture. Is that a rear vented engine?
Old 04-03-2019, 07:25 AM
  #39844  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
Could be corrosion etching from oil retained moisture. Is that a rear vented engine?
Cam gear housing vented. Barely visible in one of his images.
Old 04-03-2019, 07:25 AM
  #39845  
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That looks like corrosion as opposed to galling. Problem I have with castor is I don't like the smell and it lingers for a long time. I like the smell of Wildcat fuel though, smells like aftershave.
Old 04-03-2019, 08:00 AM
  #39846  
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If my wife really wants some she'll use a little castor on her neck. Lol
Old 04-03-2019, 08:05 AM
  #39847  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Cam gear housing vented. Barely visible in one of his images.
That is a great place to shoot the ARO..

Edit: I see the vent that I think you are referring to is at the case bottom(?)

Originally Posted by acdii
That looks like corrosion as opposed to galling. Problem I have with castor is I don't like the smell and it lingers for a long time. I like the smell of Wildcat fuel though, smells like aftershave.
Yep, it looks just like that.

Never tried aftershave in the fuel

Last edited by Jesse Open; 04-03-2019 at 08:10 AM.
Old 04-03-2019, 08:48 AM
  #39848  
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Sorry, but I missed this one earlier:
Originally Posted by Glowgeek
You mentioned earlier about checking clearances too. Are you measuring the "C fit" as well?
The "C" and "C3" ratings involve internal clearances between the rolling elements.. "Fit" is a different issue, regarding how loose or tight a bearing fits the bore and shaft. I measure the ID and OD for fit also,check width across inner and outer races.
The C3 rated bearings are supposed to have greater internal clearances than the C Normal rated bearings. If you want tighter bearing internals, C Normal is tighter than C3.
Old 04-03-2019, 11:32 AM
  #39849  
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Default New Saito guy

I just acquired my first Saito, I usually run OS two strokes, electrics, or large gasers, it's a Saito 180 Golden Knight that is going into my 1.20 P6E hawk. I'll post pics when I get some. Glad to be here.
Old 04-03-2019, 03:00 PM
  #39850  
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Welcome to Saitoville. That 180 is a real powerhouse.
Which P-6E are you building?

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