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Old 04-14-2019, 11:03 AM
  #40126  
Captcrunch44
 
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Originally Posted by acdii
Already for it's first run up. Of course today the weather sucks. 30 MPH winds and heavy snow.


were is the hydra max battery I thought you like those
Old 04-14-2019, 11:16 AM
  #40127  
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Smartazz. Rub it in why don't you!


BTW I found out I have a FA-56 in the T-clips. I got the cowl completed so that I can adjust the HSN. Will see if it runs in a few weeks.
Old 04-14-2019, 11:28 AM
  #40128  
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Originally Posted by acdii
Smartazz. Rub it in why don't you!


BTW I found out I have a FA-56 in the T-clips. I got the cowl completed so that I can adjust the HSN. Will see if it runs in a few weeks.
oh Im sorry to soon.
56 in a t clips sounds great I should do the same.
Old 04-14-2019, 11:49 AM
  #40129  
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Nah, I'm over it. I have other planes to fly, and considering that someday soon I will have a B-25 flying around, at least I learned not to use those batteries for ignitions. Using LiFe packs from now on.
Old 04-14-2019, 12:35 PM
  #40130  
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Original early style FA-65 carb with broken NVA removed. Note small, black window, next to brass at 2 O'Clock. This is the fuel entry port that accepts metered fuel from NVA. Also note threads stop just above that port. About 2mm below surface. This is as deep as you should thread the valve upon assembly.


Comparison between the donor needle body from an early FA-120 "Fathead" with the remaining portion of the original NVA. The 120 body does not have the metering hole;the 65 part does. We will need to somehow get that metering part into the 120 needle body!


View from the carb body side of the 120 needle body. The ID is .129"


Here is a view inside the 65 orifice, from the needle side.


Brass mandrel to hold the 65 orifice end for turning to part it and reduce the diameter to .127"


Tack soldered in place


Diameter turned and the metering "pill" with the orifice in place is parted from the old body.


Here is the "pill" just before pressing into position for sweat soldering


Soldered, nearly done!


Freshly repaired OEM early carb, ready to run. Donor parts were: Needle from FA-65 carb rebuild kit, needle body from early FA-120 and the original metering orifice from the early FA-65 carb.
Old 04-14-2019, 02:30 PM
  #40131  
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You use the exact same torch I do.

Speaking of torches, what would I use to braze refrigerant lines with?
Old 04-14-2019, 02:44 PM
  #40132  
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Originally Posted by acdii
You use the exact same torch I do.

Speaking of torches, what would I use to braze refrigerant lines with?
What size? Do you have a nitrogen or argon source?
Old 04-14-2019, 03:19 PM
  #40133  
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Not at the moment. My Kenmore LG refrigerator crapped it's pants, IE the compressor failed after 3 years. $600 to replace the compressor that has a 10 year warranty. The compressor is under $200 and I have AC equipment to evac and recharge the system, but the difference between the refer and cars is that the fittings are all brazed. There are three fittings on the compressor, one that needs a Schrader fitting brazed on, and the intake and output lines, which are 1/4" copper, and it appears to be copper to steel lines so need at least 10% silver, and there is a drier that will have to be replaces and those lines are tiny, maybe 3/32 and they insert into 1/4 and crimped then brazed.

I have brazed copper fittings in the past and used acetylene/oxy torches as well, but never owned one or know what each tip size is called. All I know is I need a small tip to do what needs to be brazed, but don't know if I need to go to a full Oxy/ Acetylene setup. I plan to be making landing gear for a few planes down the road which will require pretty much the same kind of silver brazing so now is my opportunity to get the proper torch. That little Butane one is good, but I don't think it is right for what I need to do.
Old 04-14-2019, 05:16 PM
  #40134  
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For small refer lines (If they are copper, a lot of aluminum is being used lately) you may get by with a MAPP gas "Turbo Torch" or the old Acetylene/air plumbers torch set. Oxy/Acetylene is still about the most common ans a 0 or #1 tip will likely be ok for 1/4 to 5/16 lines.
The reason I mentioned nitrogen is because it helps to clear the system and flow in some nitrogen. This helps to prevent scale from forming inside the line during the brazing job.
Old 04-14-2019, 06:03 PM
  #40135  
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Wow Jesse, that was quite a project to save that carb. You have awesome skills (and tools).
Old 04-14-2019, 06:06 PM
  #40136  
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Originally Posted by mirion
Wow Jesse, that was quite a project to save that carb. You have awesome skills (and tools).
Agreed, a fine piece of work......Edited: Deleted my smart,,s comment.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 04-15-2019 at 06:53 AM.
Old 04-15-2019, 12:41 AM
  #40137  
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Gary i'm not blowing hot air up your kazoo.It's always been a pleasure to watch a good tradesman with an eye for detail and a willingness to think outside the box.If only our weather man was half as good,they said possible showers for sundays two hour ride to the mc show,had to unzip my boots and let the water out both ways.
Old 04-15-2019, 01:55 AM
  #40138  
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Originally Posted by Rudolph Hart
Gary i'm not blowing hot air up your kazoo.It's always been a pleasure to watch a good tradesman with an eye for detail and a willingness to think outside the box.If only our weather man was half as good,they said possible showers for sundays two hour ride to the mc show,had to unzip my boots and let the water out both ways.
How was the show Pete? Get any pics of those Frankenbikes you mentioned?
Old 04-15-2019, 02:43 AM
  #40139  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
How was the show Pete? Get any pics of those Frankenbikes you mentioned?

Uh Uh, lets not go there, more Saitos please.
Old 04-15-2019, 02:49 AM
  #40140  
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I believe this would have saved that carb for 7 bucks.
Old 04-15-2019, 03:45 AM
  #40141  
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Kit for new model 65 carb


The 120 NVA with separate needle orifice IN THE SPRAYBAR. Needle and orifice far too large for the little 65.
Originally Posted by Hobbsy

I believe this would have saved that carb for 7 bucks.
Thanks Dave but, sorry Dave but NO.

Here we go again! It seems to happen every time.
Read the words that go with the pictures, I have that very same part here on hand, as I told you earlier.
That part is nearly identical to the part I had originally intended to and in fact, did use. HOWEVER, that part has no metering orifice within. The mating nut/ spraybar for that part does have a metering orifice but it is a separate part and the orifice, like the needle is too large making it useless for the 65. PERIOD.
As I explained earlier i, I had to cut down the metering orifice section of the original NVA and solder it into the end of that part. Furthermore, the NEEDLE itself was missing so I used a needle from the carb kit.

But please, feel free to screw that part into your own engine and show us how well it works for you. In fact, I will send you that part, I have several here.

Different day, same BS

Last edited by Jesse Open; 04-15-2019 at 03:48 AM.
Old 04-15-2019, 03:58 AM
  #40142  
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I stand corrected

Last edited by Hobbsy; 04-15-2019 at 06:22 AM. Reason: Add content
Old 04-15-2019, 04:05 AM
  #40143  
Jesse Open
 
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In WHAT way was that "overkill" PLEASE be a bit more precise. Or knock off the needless non-sense.
The pics are there, along with explanations a 12 year old could comprehend. Why the wise-a** comments?

Tell us, just how Better Idea Dave would have done that. I await your ingenious solution

Once again,
Please, feel free to screw that part into your own engine and show us how well it works for you. In fact, I will send you that part, I have several here.

Different day, same BS
Old 04-15-2019, 04:30 AM
  #40144  
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Saito 150 needle seat
No need to get hostile about an error, it's a real simple fix, I looked in my Saito 150 carb and I was wrong, that's it. End of story.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 04-15-2019 at 04:35 AM.
Old 04-15-2019, 04:56 AM
  #40145  
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Not hostile about ONE incident,
It seems that it happens nearly every time I make a comment. Be it current draw from a CDI to the distinction between a Archimedes screw seal and a Labyrinth. Make a muffler up,that shows real power gain, pass it along for free and only a veiled negative from you.

That "Ekspurt Overkill " job itself took all of 20 minutes, and then only because I stopped to take pictures to AVOID stupid, knee jerk over anxious comments. I took another half hour to post informative pics with commentary.
You chose to ignore all of that until you finally in another effort most likely determined to prove me wrong finally got the point! It was already explained, do your investigation before tossing the rocks.
Meanwhile there was another bit of time wasted on your silly a** assertion.

No good deed goes without derision in your presence.

But no more here.
Old 04-15-2019, 05:12 AM
  #40146  
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I have only praised your mufflers as being beautiful pieces of work and the overkill comment was concerning the derogatory comment not the work. I praised the beautiful elbows you made for the Saito FA 40a and thanked you for them. You have talents far beyond the most of us. I have never faulted your generosity in any way. Your contributions here are appreciated by all.
Old 04-15-2019, 06:03 AM
  #40147  
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I used simple control horns as hinges, same action as above.
Originally Posted by Glowgeek
And I hope you're around for a long time to come. The newbs would be lost without you RC dinosaurs!

For several years I had a pet T-Rex with a Saito 90 TS on it, it was a 108" kit by Adrian Paige, it was a fun flyer that flew slow and graceful. With the Fowler flaps it would walk down to the ground. I wish I had a picture of it. All things Adrian Paige seem to have disappeared.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 04-15-2019 at 06:14 AM. Reason: Add content
Old 04-15-2019, 07:27 AM
  #40148  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
For small refer lines (If they are copper, a lot of aluminum is being used lately) you may get by with a MAPP gas "Turbo Torch" or the old Acetylene/air plumbers torch set. Oxy/Acetylene is still about the most common ans a 0 or #1 tip will likely be ok for 1/4 to 5/16 lines.
The reason I mentioned nitrogen is because it helps to clear the system and flow in some nitrogen. This helps to prevent scale from forming inside the line during the brazing job.
Thanks. My wife works for Airgas so getting a bottle of Nitrogen is easy peasy and thanks for letting me know why it is used. I just thought it was used to purge the system, which an hour on a pump would also do. I usually do 2 hours to evac the system, especially if I think oil got up in the coils.


I will go ahead and get that small kit we picked out with the cutting head and 0 & 1 tips.
Old 04-15-2019, 11:04 AM
  #40149  
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Originally Posted by acdii
You use the exact same torch I do.

Speaking of torches, what would I use to braze refrigerant lines with?

When I got that same torch I also bought some higher heat solder and made a two into one pipe for my 90 TS using KS tube. It did not melt apart. The two into one pipe was two extensions on Turbo Headers joined at an oval shaped hole in the longer one. The vent also went into it.
Old 04-16-2019, 12:54 AM
  #40150  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
I stand corrected
Dave since we've known each other so long i thought i might share a private joke between us here it's not fair to edit your previous comments after reading your opponents reply for two main reasons.First it misleads following readers who did not read the FIRST version...and secondly,people may begin to suspect that you are the sole producer of odourless faeces on this thread other than that your a top bloke even if you still ride a harley.

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