acdii

5 of those biguns would have helped balance the Rascal! That would be nearly 5 pounds of lead I could have removed.

At some point Ni-Cads will no longer be available, in fact the EU and UK banned their sales for everything except Medical and a few select categories.

Glowgeek

Hey Jim, there's a fella on rcg called Heggen, he drew up basic plans for both the 40 and 60 size DL last year. He sends plans out for cost of shipping.The original DL ARC manual is available online in pdf format

Jesse Open

the Wasp

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: sO you will build me one from scratch if I get the prints, how nice of you, make it a bit bigger for my K&B 100 snicker snicker


Jim

the Wasp

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let me tell you, I couldn't cut wood straight even if Pete helped me

Jim

the Wasp

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I wouldn't mind buying a 1900 sub-c pack for my VQ P-40 but not for the others,
I guess I could buy the 1200 pack for my Worlds Model 46 size P-40, cause that's just a crasher plane

Jim

Rudolph Hart

Guys i have a fuel question.I'm giving the fa115 a yearly birthday with new o rings etc and rinsing the fuel tank.Since i only strain the in going fuel to the tank with the normal inline filter after the hand pump, i thought it would be interesting to pour the fuel tank residue through a fine mesh coffee filter and see what happened.It had a lot of short white fine hairs trapped in it...i've seen this before, any ideas?

ps jim,a lawyer karks it and arrives at the pearly gates.Not fair, he said, I'm only 45, Saint pete said no, we got a new system.Now we do it by billable hours.According to our records you're 153.

Jesse Open

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

it's the red sub-C that are the SCR's, them's the babies, the power they put out, we used them in the late 80s for buggy racing, the yellows never had a chance, the SCRs would take 10 amps on a charge, that is what my Tekin would put out as long as the alternator was turning ,, flying is a different story tho, I charger slower, but still the red's are the ones


Pete, I am wondering if it's bit of plastic flaking off the Chinese fuel tanks, or fuel line. if they are plastic they should melt once heated, try heating them on some metal, by on an old spoon,, also try filtering some fresh fuel and see if you get these hairs !!
this is something I will have to test for..

as for that lawyer, from the lawyer stories I have heard most likely he didn't stepped threw the gate LOL

Jim

acdii

Satan has a special room for all lawyers and politicians (and car salesmen) in Hell. When they enter the room everyone is standing in 2 feet of excrement, talking, laughing, smoking, drinking, and they think, well, this isn't too bad. They enter and a few minutes later a voice booms, OK, Break time is over, everyone back on their heads!

cdrc1

Having an transition problem with my Saito 100. It is mounted upside down in a TF warbird; has a OB glow driver, and a pump. When transitioning from idle, the engine is sagging around mid range and then some times just stalls. If I slowly take the throttle up it seems to be fine. At high RPM is running around 8900 RPM. Also the high speed needle is very sensitive to adjustments. Checked the valves and they are good. The low speed needle is in along ways which is interesting. If I run slightly rich on the low speed it floods easy at idle and will stall. Any ideas?

Glowgeek

Sounds like too much pump pressure or your glow driver quit working. Is this a new problem with an existing set up or a new set up? What prop? What pump?

If it's a new problem I'd try a new glow plug first. If that doesn't fix it I'd bypass the pump, disable the glow driver and retune. You shouldn't need either to run your fa100 in a TF warbird unless they botched the fuel tank location.

acdii

Tune the needles better. I had the same engine in a P-51 and could not get it to run. I reset both LSN and HSN, and got it to run so well it wouldn't shut off. Also check the tank position, it may be too high which is causing it to get too much fuel. Easy way to check, drain the tank, and fill it less than half and see how it runs. Do this first and see.

Jesse Open

That is good news! The 40 size could be a treat and there are plenty of areas where weight could be trimmed from the ARF. I got this one as a "damaged, return" years ago. It had a few bruises and punctures. I will have to see if Heggen is still offering.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

if the engine has been running a few years and sets in the winter I would remove the Carb and clean it well, and the pump and tank too, the pump can get dirty inside and need cleaning and as the pump gets older it may need adjusting

Jim

cdrc1

The tank position is why I went with a pump. It is a perry pump and is a new set-up/new plane; engine was tuned and broke in on a test stand right side up. The on-board glow shuts off around 1/4 throttle.

Rudolph Hart

CDRC the above is very good advice,we've all done a flying tune (very different from running it on the bench) on a saito inverted in an arf with a high fuel tank position and there are many things you can do,so you end up with a smooth and powerful saito in your arf?? if you answer some of the above questions in a bit more detail it's easier to help you,pics are good too.

ps jim the small fine white fibre is not plastic,i use dubro or sullivan tanks and good fuel line.

Jesse Open

Could the fibres have come with the fuel that you put in? Perhaps one of the manufacturers used a textile based filter of some type?

Glowgeek

It's good you ran it on the bench first, that can alleviate many problems. Hopefully you've replaced the glow plug after break in? Even though a glow plug can look perfect after new engine break in runs there will be with tiny metal particles attached to the wire element. Replace it before doing final preflight tuning.

A properly tuned engine running in an upright position on a test bench will require retuning when mounted inverted on an airframe. In all likelihood it will run rich when flipped over, especially if the carb has no velocity stack. Retuning is required.

Perry pumps are needed if your fuel tank centerline is very low in comparison to your carb spraybar or when your fuel tank is located farther back away from the firewall. I'm not sure with your TF warbird if either of those apply. I would try tuning without the pump though, one less thing to be concerned with for now.

Glow drivers can be useful especially with newly broke in engines where idle can be unpredictable. They can also camouflage an overly rich low speed needle (lsn) setting which I believe is what you are experiencing. Turn in (lean) the lsn until your transition gets crisp. You'll know you've leaned it too far when the engine pops or dies when goosing the throttle after idling for 15 seconds.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Pete, what about that filter you say you have for your pump, could the hairs be coming from that filter, or even the pump it's self ?? I have a filter for my gallon jug and it's not metal, check that filter

Jim

the Wasp

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wheres Dave ? I hope things are fine with him !!

Jim

cdrc1

Use Sullivan filters on all my planes and on field box fuel bottle. Have replaced the glow plug at least once and using a 4-stroke plug as recommended by Saito. The prop is a 14x7. Perry pump is a VP-30 regulating pump. Will try leaning the low side some more but have tried that once and it did pop and threw the spinner/prop.

Glowgeek

Was wondering the same thing.

Glowgeek

Gary, check your PM

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

Lonnie, we screwed up, I should have also sent you my 125 Carb to try

Jim