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Old 06-19-2019, 04:04 PM
  #41026  
Captcrunch44
 
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Ok my Saito buddies, picked this 100 off eBay. Looks to be just short of brand new but was in a crash. Now I have seen this worse but this one is not to bad. The header pipe broke out part of the threads, but I think it will still work. I was thinking a little (dare I say) JB weld and screw the pipe back in. I can get the pipe to screw in and I can tighten the lock nut. But I need a ya or na on what Iím thinking or do I just order a new cylinder? And yes thatís the fan out of a Bell 47 itís cracked and I found the crack in an inspection faze so he let me keep to make a clock

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Old 06-19-2019, 04:26 PM
  #41027  
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Originally Posted by Captcrunch44
Ok my Saito buddies, picked this 100 off eBay. Looks to be just short of brand new but was in a crash. Now I have seen this worse but this one is not to bad. The header pipe broke out part of the threads, but I think it will still work. I was thinking a little (dare I say) JB weld and screw the pipe back in. I can get the pipe to screw in and I can tighten the lock nut. But I need a ya or na on what Iím thinking or do I just order a new cylinder? And yes thatís the fan out of a Bell 47 itís cracked and I found the crack in an inspection faze so he let me keep to make a clock
I recall someone contacted me about fixing that engine.

If Clarence Lee is still doing them, then that would be the way to go. NO on the JB goop.
Old 06-19-2019, 04:43 PM
  #41028  
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I would try stove pipe cement.
Old 06-19-2019, 04:43 PM
  #41029  
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Looks like what happened to my 72 last year. You remember, when the aileron came off. I just replaced the cylinder.
Old 06-19-2019, 06:18 PM
  #41030  
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Originally Posted by Captcrunch44
Ok my Saito buddies, picked this 100 off eBay. Looks to be just short of brand new but was in a crash. Now I have seen this worse but this one is not to bad. The header pipe broke out part of the threads, but I think it will still work. I was thinking a little (dare I say) JB weld and screw the pipe back in. I can get the pipe to screw in and I can tighten the lock nut. But I need a ya or na on what Iím thinking or do I just order a new cylinder? And yes thatís the fan out of a Bell 47 itís cracked and I found the crack in an inspection faze so he let me keep to make a clock


I agree> I don't think J&B will hold up for that long at all, it looks like you only have 3&1/2 threads on the broken side. if it wouldn't warp when welded a new part could be made, it would stick out a bit but it would work. but if you had to pay some one to fix it you would be better off buying a new cylinder. and I ant no welder

Jim
Old 06-19-2019, 07:41 PM
  #41031  
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some CNC art going on here.

of course the icon does not go with the video.


Jim
Old 06-19-2019, 10:28 PM
  #41032  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Dave when i look at keleo rings they are not designed to promote a circular exhaust gas flow so i'd fit the pressure nipple at tdc of the ring, cheers: (quote by Pete)

Thanks Pete, that's exactly what I'll do, if nothing else it can catch the pressure wave coming out of the exhaust port. The low speed needle is still,pretty wet, I gotta wiggle something in there to lean it. The thing is surprisingly quiet, I expected it to have a healthy bark. Please don't send me a Funnel Web.




OK i won't, they are almost always found over on the east coast in sydney.Found this little critter in a freshly dug trench over here.The guys bagged and tagged it before sending it to a gummint run lab.Must have hitched a ride over on one of the interstate semitrailers, way to far to walk.

About that keleo ring pressure nipple, do you think the exhaust ring wall thickness will be a problem or would maybe gary suggest you solder a curved and shaped ally plate to the ring, then drill and tap it?

Gary all the major, and even minor, automotive/motorcycle manufacturers bought a sample of the oppositions products to learn or copy in some way.Generally the only exception was where the product was found only inside factory race teams.Then a big cashed up brand might just settle for buying up all the engineers who developed that product...

ps you've reminded me of what having rose tinted glasses mean again, lucas electrics keep people fit
Old 06-20-2019, 02:16 AM
  #41033  
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Lonnie,

I haven't forgotten about your 15 degree elbow. Just need to make something small and lightweight.


Pete,

I had been thinking about actually placing the pressure tap thru one of the welds already there.
We do that competitor benchmarking right across the street from here. They buy cars, tear them apart and spread them out on tables. We are free to go there any time and check them out. Interesting to say the least

My job is Experimental Metal Model Maker in building show and concept cars. About 10 years ago however I was drafted into designing and building the electrical systems for those cars.

No "rose colored " glasses here at all. I said the Lucas Electrics on MY bikes worked well. I am aware of electrical problems among ALL makes and they ALL had their share over the years.
I always said Lucas electrics were no better than the last person who worked on them as 80% of the problems I saw were induced by owners and "mechanics" . The later Lucas stuff like the switchgear from 1971 up and the useless starters on the Nortons and Tridents were pretty bad. But aside from a 1975 Trident that I always kick started, the bulk of my Brit rides had the very simple, and in the right hands, reliable AC alternator , zener regulated system. Always served me well but I have seen plenty that were damaged by sheer ignorance. Seems everyone wants to ground negative terminals, of course doing that on an AC Britbike will destroy the Zener, the rectifiers and in turn put DC on the alternator coils which can in turn demagnitize the magnets in the rotor, all of which he perpetrator will blame on the "Prince of Darkness".
We could also mention theAprillia and Maerelli snuff can switches on Ducati Benelli, Guzzi etc. Very high failure rate but with minimal maintenance they can last darn near forever.
The Erector set 1955 Triumph has fully functional Lucas electrics to this day. After 65 years, it is all original, save for the new battery , point/condensers, Lodge spark plugs . I replaced the old BPF Tungsten bulb with a Halogen unit and I put new tail bulbs in every year regardless.

Like I said, the Lucas electrics I have used treated me quite well


Getting This well used old timer out of the mothballs . Going in a 1978 era Sig Kadet MK 1 three channel taildragger I just rebuilt.

Last edited by Jesse Open; 06-20-2019 at 03:04 AM.
Old 06-20-2019, 03:45 AM
  #41034  
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Thanks Gary. The 15į adaptor doesn't have to be super small. Function before form.

What a killer looking prop hub on that fa50!
Old 06-20-2019, 05:07 AM
  #41035  
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[QUOTE=Rudolph Hart;12532460]

OK i won't, they are almost always found over on the east coast in sydney.Found this little critter in a freshly dug trench over here.The guys bagged and tagged it before sending it to a gummint run lab.Must have hitched a ride over on one of the interstate semitrailers, way to far to walk.

About that keleo ring pressure nipple, do you think the exhaust ring wall thickness will be a problem or would maybe gary suggest you solder a curved and shaped ally plate to the ring, then drill and tap it?










When giving the 120 R_3 a physical I discovered that the intake push rod on #3 cylinder was dislodged and pushing on the arm itself. There is not enough room for the push rod to slip off of the arm so it ran OK like that. On a larger engine it would have slipped off and that cylinder would not have run..


Pete, here is a shot of the wall thickness, I removed the priming fitting and used it for the pressure tap. I placed 3.5 mm grub screw in place of the primer. The pressure tap took a a good snugging without a problem.

The wall thickness is just about equal to the thread count.


No wonder the thing can't be flexed to help the installation.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 06-20-2019 at 05:11 AM.
Old 06-20-2019, 06:00 AM
  #41036  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Thanks Gary. The 15į adaptor doesn't have to be super small. Function before form.

What a killer looking prop hub on that fa50!
Thanks Lonnie, if I get a chance, I will post a pic of the mating wrench

The main reason I want to keep that elbow compact and light is to minimize the load on those threads in the head! Don't want it to look like that 100 pic some day. Did I send you some real SWAK? I would strongly suggest using some.



Last edited by Jesse Open; 06-20-2019 at 06:03 AM.
Old 06-20-2019, 07:33 AM
  #41037  
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Originally Posted by Captcrunch44
Ok my Saito buddies, picked this 100 off eBay. Looks to be just short of brand new but was in a crash. Now I have seen this worse but this one is not to bad. The header pipe broke out part of the threads, but I think it will still work. I was thinking a little (dare I say) JB weld and screw the pipe back in. I can get the pipe to screw in and I can tighten the lock nut. But I need a ya or na on what Iím thinking or do I just order a new cylinder? And yes thatís the fan out of a Bell 47 itís cracked and I found the crack in an inspection faze so he let me keep to make a clock

Repaired by Clarence Lee:







Out of respect for Clarence Lee, I will not do these nor glow plug threads until such time as he no longer does. The only exceptions are that I have done a few for myself and close, local friends.
Old 06-20-2019, 08:05 AM
  #41038  
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Yes, you sent me some Swak, thanks. I've used it to Swak the exhaust on all my flying engines. I may still have enough to Swak the adaptor. I'm out of 12mm jam nuts though and will need one for the adaptor or not? Sounds like you have something else in mind.
Old 06-20-2019, 11:57 AM
  #41039  
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Yep, thinking about a "weldment". You should need a single lock nut as the muffler will seat face to face with the male end of the street type ell.

Here is a pic of the mating peg wrench for that prop nut from earlier.

Old 06-20-2019, 02:52 PM
  #41040  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
Yep, thinking about a "weldment". You should need a single lock nut as the muffler will seat face to face with the male end of the street type ell.


OK no problem, I can drill the muffler to relocate the pressure nipple in case in doesn't point the correct direction.
Old 06-20-2019, 07:09 PM
  #41041  
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Gary, I sent out the carb body today (Thursday), she said it should be there Tuesday or Wednesday,

that is some cool hub there

thank you again !!

Jim
Old 06-20-2019, 09:38 PM
  #41042  
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twin Saito Radials


Jim
Old 06-20-2019, 10:50 PM
  #41043  
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Thank you jim i had the speakers up loud for that.I assume it's in holland looking at all the pushbikes in the pit area.Nice landing, that guy can fly.

Dave i was aware of the oval exhaust pipe thickness by looking at mine fitted to the fa200r3 but wondered if the ring was the same wall thickness, the three header pipes are very soft material.Like you on the first run i had a lower right cylinder pushrod drop out to the side but it never happened again.I'm assuming the metal began mating together better during the run in and the oil film (with a smidge of castor) kept it in place.

Gary i bow to your electrical knowledge, mine is confined to receiving large shocks off very exposed early british bike plugs.Sixty years ago was the last time i saw a lodge plug, watched my grandfather pull it out of a roller lawn mower, the ceramic part was pink instead of the normal white, do they still make them. Very nice prop lock nut, have you made any scale type one's for early aircraft?
Old 06-21-2019, 02:12 AM
  #41044  
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Thanks Pete, there's no way I didn't check the valve lash when I got this engine about a year ago. I owe two more payments on it. Thinking on it some more, I feel I should pull that push rod. I can see where it tried to get past the rocker and made a mark. It's wise to check things if you get that feeling. Is your carb held in place by one grub screw or by two. This one was held by one but had provisions for the second one which I added. I wish I had some easy peazy way to check the pressure tap to see if it actually works. I'm cyphering on it hopefully without harming my brain. I think a simple balloon would show me something.
Old 06-21-2019, 02:46 AM
  #41045  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
I wish I had some easy peazy way to check the pressure tap to see if it actually works. I'm cyphering on it hopefully without harming my brain. I think a simple balloon would show me something.
It's easy to make a manometer with an 10 ft. piece of clear vinyl tubing clamped to a board or a wall. Conversion from inches of water column to psi is easy with online calculators. I watched a couple of youtube vids and made one, took about 15 minutes. Alternatively you can purchase a 1-5 psi pressure gauge which is less accurate and more expensive but more convenient to use.

I'm wondering if the the location you chose to put the pressure nipple on your Keleo ring is going to quickly burn out the silicone tubing. It's got to be very hot directly across from the header.
Old 06-21-2019, 02:51 AM
  #41046  
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We shall see, I think it will be OK.
Old 06-21-2019, 03:19 AM
  #41047  
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This engine was repaired by Clarence Lee using a threaded brass adaptor and JB Weld. Clarence sent instructions with this type of repair stating to not try to remove the fitting as it was tightened with a big wrench and JB Weld.
Old 06-21-2019, 03:36 AM
  #41048  
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Yes, He does, or at least did very nice work and the prices were exceptional. He did an OS 70 Slurpass for a friend of mine a couple of years ago.
Old 06-21-2019, 03:39 AM
  #41049  
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"Slurpass" , hahaaaaa!!!! Good one.
Old 06-21-2019, 03:54 AM
  #41050  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
Yes, He does, or at least did very nice work and the prices were exceptional. He did an OS 70 Slurpass for a friend of mine a couple of years ago.
so were can someone get good tap and dies.
I picked up a 14mm and try to tap for a 90 degree adapter and it just was bad. Like the tap was bad.

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