Welcome to Club SAITO !
My Feedback: (11)
There's what appears to be an old Top Flight P-40 that he wants over 4 grand for, the covering is falling off and its got what looks like a Zenoah or something.
My Feedback: (6)
Sounds like the If it's old it must be worth a lot mentality. Makes you wonder how he stays in business or that the business is a poorly exicuted hobby.
There is a gun shop in Marengo with a 1/9th scale B-17 hanging, they want 3K for it, and it isn't even setup to fly, just a hanging model that would take at least 100 hours to make it flight ready. I wish I could get $1000 for my CARF Extra 330L that has never flown, but know that will never happen. LOL
Saito FA82 CR Mod
Onward with the 82 mods! Compression ratio is now 11.75 to 1. No peak rpm increase from the previous 10.5 to 1 CR but on the other hand no losses either. There is however a very noticeable increase in throttle response from midrange rpm to peak rpm, just as there was with the previous CR increase. 1750 idle rpm is very smooth and reliable.
I think with the latest CR increase the engine may be on the cusp of over compressing using 15% nitro content where further increases may bring on unwanted effects eg detonation and an unpredictable hsn.
I recently picked up a pnuematic pencil grinder so the next mod will be a little mild porting of the intake and exhaust runners. Currently there are no short turn radii on this engine, just sharp 90° bends which should be fairly easy to relieve. I may also take time to grind reliefs into the valve stems behind the caps as well. Undercutting.
Notes:
1. Raising the compression ratio beyond 10:1 requires removal of material from the bottom of the cylinder for case clearance.
2. Raising the compression ratio to 10.5:1 requires all mods in note #1 as well as shortening the pushrod tubes.
3. Raising the compression ratio to 11.75:1 requires all the mods in note #2 & #3 and may be reaching close to max because the quench zone is reduced to .018". Raising CR beyond 11.75:1 may require remachining the combustion chamber quench zone or piston top as well as bottom tapping the cylinder mounting holes in the case.
I think with the latest CR increase the engine may be on the cusp of over compressing using 15% nitro content where further increases may bring on unwanted effects eg detonation and an unpredictable hsn.
I recently picked up a pnuematic pencil grinder so the next mod will be a little mild porting of the intake and exhaust runners. Currently there are no short turn radii on this engine, just sharp 90° bends which should be fairly easy to relieve. I may also take time to grind reliefs into the valve stems behind the caps as well. Undercutting.
Notes:
1. Raising the compression ratio beyond 10:1 requires removal of material from the bottom of the cylinder for case clearance.
2. Raising the compression ratio to 10.5:1 requires all mods in note #1 as well as shortening the pushrod tubes.
3. Raising the compression ratio to 11.75:1 requires all the mods in note #2 & #3 and may be reaching close to max because the quench zone is reduced to .018". Raising CR beyond 11.75:1 may require remachining the combustion chamber quench zone or piston top as well as bottom tapping the cylinder mounting holes in the case.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 06-28-2019 at 02:57 PM.
My Feedback: (1)
heeheehee modding a Saito 82 I love it
I don't remember what the 82's intake port looks like, but I can tell you the 100 doesn't have much in there to remove. if you come to find it wont hold a good tune just make a gasket for the cylinder, yet on the other side of it, if it does hold a good tune, that will be fun
Jim
I don't remember what the 82's intake port looks like, but I can tell you the 100 doesn't have much in there to remove. if you come to find it wont hold a good tune just make a gasket for the cylinder, yet on the other side of it, if it does hold a good tune, that will be fun
Jim
My Feedback: (1)
well guys, I hate to tell you !!!! but more garbage here,, I mounted the Mustangs wire landing gear to the wing, and the vertical holes (not the slots) that the wire gear slides into are both tapered from the inside out, this was done on purpose at the factory, this means the wheels will wiggles forward and back a good 3/4 inches on each landing and take off, so for every landing/take off the wire will vibrate increasing the size of the holes !
I know how to fix it, I will have to drill out the holes and put in hard wood dowels, and drill new 4mm holes in the dowels for the wire landing gear, now drilling new holes and mounting dowels is pretty easy, I did that 7 times for the Wold Models P-40 retracts , but drilling the holes in the dowels in just the right spot (and straight) so the wire gear are parallel to each other is another thing.. plus, I don't know how wide the bass wood in the wing is, so I don't know how wide the dowels can be made.. it's very frustrating..
I have been seriously thinking about calling Air Borne Models and telling Mr. Chan just how dirty I feel he is for selling such garbage. sorry guys, but really, I thought this hobby was suppose to be fun ???
I know how to fix it, I will have to drill out the holes and put in hard wood dowels, and drill new 4mm holes in the dowels for the wire landing gear, now drilling new holes and mounting dowels is pretty easy, I did that 7 times for the Wold Models P-40 retracts , but drilling the holes in the dowels in just the right spot (and straight) so the wire gear are parallel to each other is another thing.. plus, I don't know how wide the bass wood in the wing is, so I don't know how wide the dowels can be made.. it's very frustrating..
I have been seriously thinking about calling Air Borne Models and telling Mr. Chan just how dirty I feel he is for selling such garbage. sorry guys, but really, I thought this hobby was suppose to be fun ???
Last edited by the Wasp; 06-28-2019 at 06:18 PM.
RE Loosy Goosy strut mount holes:
I used 4 or 5 coats of paste wax on the struts and JB Weld-ed my struts in on my 7 lb. P51. No problems after 60+ flights. I have not tried to remove them yet but I'm sure they'll come out.
Be aware that factory supplied struts are cut to length with a shear and are not round at the very ends. File them round otherwise you may never be able to remove them from the JB Weld.
I used 4 or 5 coats of paste wax on the struts and JB Weld-ed my struts in on my 7 lb. P51. No problems after 60+ flights. I have not tried to remove them yet but I'm sure they'll come out.
Be aware that factory supplied struts are cut to length with a shear and are not round at the very ends. File them round otherwise you may never be able to remove them from the JB Weld.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 06-28-2019 at 07:10 PM.
My Feedback: (1)
RE Loosy Goosy strut mount holes:
I used 4 or 5 coats of paste wax on the struts and JB Weld-ed my struts in on my 7 lb. P51. No problems after 60+ flights. I have not tried to remove them yet but I'm sure they'll come out.
Be aware that factory supplied struts are cut to length with a shear and are not round at the very ends. File them round otherwise you may never be able to remove them from the JB Weld.
I used 4 or 5 coats of paste wax on the struts and JB Weld-ed my struts in on my 7 lb. P51. No problems after 60+ flights. I have not tried to remove them yet but I'm sure they'll come out.
Be aware that factory supplied struts are cut to length with a shear and are not round at the very ends. File them round otherwise you may never be able to remove them from the JB Weld.
Jim
Candle wax or floor polish is ok too as a release agent. You say dave may have crashed his pretty flash saito test stand? i hope not, in old age it can give you a bad case of ort, over revving ticker, which can cause loss of balance and a faint feeling, specially in a small shed eg; i know this fool who was on the third tank running in an fa115 when it suddenly went to full throttle and unbolted itself from the soft pcp, packing class pine, timber. At least once in our lives we've all been so instantly mesmerised and frightened that the feet won't move but your knees fail so you hit the deck and save yourself in my case i fell behind a large lawnmower.
ps dave i hope you recover soon but if you don't...will you put up your membership number so we can all raffle it off over a few beers and some jokes at your expense ??
ps dave i hope you recover soon but if you don't...will you put up your membership number so we can all raffle it off over a few beers and some jokes at your expense ??
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes
on
24 Posts
Pete, I am alive and well, listening to Seekers CD's and working on another project. The 120 R-3 is repaired, another 56 is in the works. The flat ended push rod from the 120 R is a keepsake now.
Pete ,
Confession is good for the soul! Good story.
Many years ago I had just pulled a Super Tigre S40 from a plane for a little work. After finishing I mounted a prop, gave it a shot of WD-40 down the intake and , out of habit gave it a flip. iT STARTED! No plug heat, it was in my left hand and running at full throttle. Never realized how fast they heat up. I was very busy trying to figure out which way it would go when I threw it. Seemed like forever but it did stop before I figured out what to do, or burned my hand. What a surprise though. I don't think ducking was an option.
Hard starting was the reason I pulled the engine from the plane.
Confession is good for the soul! Good story.
Many years ago I had just pulled a Super Tigre S40 from a plane for a little work. After finishing I mounted a prop, gave it a shot of WD-40 down the intake and , out of habit gave it a flip. iT STARTED! No plug heat, it was in my left hand and running at full throttle. Never realized how fast they heat up. I was very busy trying to figure out which way it would go when I threw it. Seemed like forever but it did stop before I figured out what to do, or burned my hand. What a surprise though. I don't think ducking was an option.
Hard starting was the reason I pulled the engine from the plane.
A word of caution using floor wax as a release agent, specifically for bent strut landing gear. I wouldn't. Most floor waxes these days, like Future brand for instance have high acrylic content and dry very hard. Bent strut landing gear has to be removed by pulling it straight up out of the gear block holes so a softer wax is needed I think. Paste wax like Mother's with a high carnuba wax content would be a better choice imo.
You guys are riot, "crashing test stands". Funny, I thought I was the only one that had that happen. No problem, I just scabbed on some 1x4 to keep the rotten landing gear from falling off again.
Hotrod fa82b with its back turned to that other brand fs26
You guys are riot, "crashing test stands". Funny, I thought I was the only one that had that happen. No problem, I just scabbed on some 1x4 to keep the rotten landing gear from falling off again.
Hotrod fa82b with its back turned to that other brand fs26
Last edited by Glowgeek; 06-29-2019 at 06:02 AM.
Suffer much from OCD? LOL I think you would froth at the mouth and turn all red if you saw my work shop. Nothing has a place, and nothing is in it's place! LMAO I tried to get organized once....once.
I found Mold release wax from Meguiars on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 stuff works pretty good too.
I found Mold release wax from Meguiars on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 stuff works pretty good too.
Or a more cost effective product. When you're done JB Welding your wobbly gear use the rest on your car.
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05750...ateway&sr=8-12
Gary's shop looks well organized alright.
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05750...ateway&sr=8-12
Gary's shop looks well organized alright.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 06-29-2019 at 08:24 AM.
EDIT: I did some reading up on that Mcquiars mold release wax. Yeah is has carnauba wax but has a bunch of other chemicals in it as well, most of them harmful. The material safety and hazard data sheet says to use in a well ventilated area and avoid contact with skin. Sounds like pretty nasty stuff. Pure carnauba is harmless and releases fiberglass cowls from my molds just fine.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 06-29-2019 at 11:44 AM.
Suffer much from OCD? LOL I think you would froth at the mouth and turn all red if you saw my work shop. Nothing has a place, and nothing is in it's place! LMAO I tried to get organized once....once.
I found Mold release wax from Meguiars on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 stuff works pretty good too.
I found Mold release wax from Meguiars on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 stuff works pretty good too.
OCD? Waay too funny!
Could be! Seems to be setting in lately. We had lived in the same place for 44 years and had pretty good workspace. Now in a bigger house but less room for the RC hobby.
Decided to organize all the different adhesives so I made the racks for epoxies and the 10 or so types of Loctite CA. Actually lasts longer stored in dark cabinets too
My Norwegian Princess would tell you I am still slob!
Last edited by Jesse Open; 06-29-2019 at 06:37 PM.
My Feedback: (1)
RE Loosy Goosy strut mount holes:
I used 4 or 5 coats of paste wax on the struts and JB Weld-ed my struts in on my 7 lb. P51. No problems after 60+ flights. I have not tried to remove them yet but I'm sure they'll come out.
Be aware that factory supplied struts are cut to length with a shear and are not round at the very ends. File them round otherwise you may never be able to remove them from the JB Weld.
I used 4 or 5 coats of paste wax on the struts and JB Weld-ed my struts in on my 7 lb. P51. No problems after 60+ flights. I have not tried to remove them yet but I'm sure they'll come out.
Be aware that factory supplied struts are cut to length with a shear and are not round at the very ends. File them round otherwise you may never be able to remove them from the JB Weld.
Lonnie, I had a thought, what do you think, about using Gorilla Glue in the holes, it's tough and will foam around the wire, and would be easier to get in the holes ??
Jim
A word of caution using floor wax as a release agent, specifically for bent strut landing gear. I wouldn't. Most floor waxes these days, like Future brand for instance have high acrylic content and dry very hard. Bent strut landing gear has to be removed by pulling it straight up out of the gear block holes so a softer wax is needed I think. Paste wax like Mother's with a high carnuba wax content would be a better choice imo.
You guys are riot, "crashing test stands". Funny, I thought I was the only one that had that happen. No problem, I just scabbed on some 1x4 to keep the rotten landing gear from falling off again.
Hotrod fa82b with its back turned to that other brand fs26
You guys are riot, "crashing test stands". Funny, I thought I was the only one that had that happen. No problem, I just scabbed on some 1x4 to keep the rotten landing gear from falling off again.
Hotrod fa82b with its back turned to that other brand fs26
Jim just stab the landing gear wire that goes into the wing into a candle and twist it a few times, bolt the leg to the wing and pour some 24hr epoxy in the hole.
Dave have you thought about getting the fa120r3 pushrod encased into a block of clear acrylic, they make neat paperweight blocks.
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes
on
24 Posts
(Quote): Dave have you thought about getting the fa120r3 pushrod encased into a block of clear acrylic, they make neat paperweight blocks.
I hadn't thought of that, it might be a plan. The XR 80 is getting a new Dunlop 90/100 x 14 rear tire, tube and liner, I already installed a new throttle cable, front brake cable, clutch cable, points, condenser and air filter. It needs two spokes, I haven't come up with them yet.
I am doing a KMOT job on my black Saitos, they're getting stainless steel screws which will look great with the new Turbo Headers I am going to order.
I hadn't thought of that, it might be a plan. The XR 80 is getting a new Dunlop 90/100 x 14 rear tire, tube and liner, I already installed a new throttle cable, front brake cable, clutch cable, points, condenser and air filter. It needs two spokes, I haven't come up with them yet.
I am doing a KMOT job on my black Saitos, they're getting stainless steel screws which will look great with the new Turbo Headers I am going to order.
Be aware, stainless steel screws in aluminum are generally bad juju. Galvanic corrosion is the problem.
Not likely a problem in this cosmetic use but it can lead to failures. Seen the stainless screws totally sieze in aluminum where the were impossible to remove.
Shouldn't be a problem here but a bit of anti-sieze doesn't hurt.
Buchanan Wheel will make up just about any spoke
Not a bad idea to do the full set and relace the entire wheel.
Not likely a problem in this cosmetic use but it can lead to failures. Seen the stainless screws totally sieze in aluminum where the were impossible to remove.
Shouldn't be a problem here but a bit of anti-sieze doesn't hurt.
Buchanan Wheel will make up just about any spoke
Not a bad idea to do the full set and relace the entire wheel.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 06-30-2019 at 03:41 AM.