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Old 07-16-2019, 06:27 AM
  #41401  
acdii
 
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Well, the only other Bruce I know is no longer a Bruce IYKWIM
Old 07-16-2019, 06:39 AM
  #41402  
Glowgeek
 
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Whatchu talk'n bout Willis?
Old 07-16-2019, 07:23 AM
  #41403  
acdii
 
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Eh Hem

Old 07-16-2019, 07:28 AM
  #41404  
Glowgeek
 
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In Ireland they call those Brucy Boys. Not kidding

Wouldn't it be easier to just share with us your first name? Can't be any worse than Loonie Lonnie.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 07-16-2019 at 10:21 AM.
Old 07-16-2019, 07:30 AM
  #41405  
acdii
 
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And none of them would know what to do with a Saito if you handed them one.
Old 07-16-2019, 11:41 AM
  #41406  
jester_s1
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Ok, a Saito .80 is giving me grief. I got it in a lot of stuff from a hobbyist that I trust. It was gummy, so I disassembled it and cleaned everything up. I am fairly certain I got the timing right. I set the valves to minimum lash, and I don't think they are too tight because I have good compression.
Fuel is Omega 10%
New OS F glow plug.

I reset the needles to factory setting, and can peak the HS. I got 8400 RPM at peak,. That's lower than I expected, as my prop is in the middle of the recommended range.
The big problem is idle. At roughly 1/4 throttle, I get a 2300 rpm idle at a very rich setting. It dies if I lean it any more. If I leave the glow driver on the same throttle position will be about 4000 rpm and erratic. I can lean it more with the glow driver on and go to a lower setting, but it's erratic and dies after a few seconds.

Any thoughts?
Old 07-16-2019, 12:04 PM
  #41407  
acdii
 
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air leak. Maybe the o ring is damaged in the intake manifold.
Old 07-16-2019, 12:13 PM
  #41408  
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You didn't say if it looked well used or like new. Your symptoms could be caused by a number of things.

1. Engine is not broken in yet
2. Prop to large
3. Bad glow plug
4. Intake tract leak
5. Slit in spray bar not facing toward intake manifold
6. Water in fuel
7. Bad bearings
8. Wrist pin sticking
9. Lifters sticking in bores
10. Valve sticking
11. Valve leaking
12. Broken valve spring

As far as it being out of time I'm not sure, I haven't heard one run that way.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 07-16-2019 at 12:47 PM.
Old 07-16-2019, 01:45 PM
  #41409  
jester_s1
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Thanks for the help.
I'll go back through the carb then. I put new bearings in, the engine has some wear so it's definitely broken in, new glow plug, no spraybar slit, fuel ran fine in my Novarossi last week, wrist pin and lifters are moving freely after the cleanup last week, valves don't feel sticky when moving manually and seem to be sealing well (good compression), valve springs are good. So I guess an air leak somewhere is what I have left.
I didn't say this before, but it sounds to me like the engine goes lean at less than 1/4 throttle. It just quits suddenly.
Is there a way to check the timing without taking the timing gear off again?
Old 07-16-2019, 02:15 PM
  #41410  
Rudolph Hart
 
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A long time back i miss timed one and had a similar experience. Take the plug out and find tdc on the exhaust stroke. With the rocker covers removed you should see that the pushrods are of an even height. Now if you wiggle the prop back and forth the pushrod tips should move up and down the same amount. Good luck.

ps bruce you've ruined a lot of movie memories for me
Old 07-16-2019, 03:11 PM
  #41411  
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Originally Posted by jester_s1
Is there a way to check the timing without taking the timing gear off again?
Jester, next time you have your cam box off you can make a tool to set the timing. It's just a stick of metal rod the same OD as a lifter with a point ground on one end. There is a hole in the cam on the base circle of the intake lobe that is used for cam timing alignment by inserting the tool into the intake lifter bore and into the cam hole. The tool holds the cam in a fixed position while installing the cam box onto the case with the crank pin at TDC.
Old 07-16-2019, 04:39 PM
  #41412  
modeltronics
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Jester, next time you have your cam box off you can make a tool to set the timing. It's just a stick of metal rod the same OD as a lifter with a point ground on one end. There is a hole in the cam on the base circle of the intake lobe that is used for cam timing alignment by inserting the tool into the intake lifter bore and into the cam hole. The tool holds the cam in a fixed position while installing the cam box onto the case with the crank pin at TDC.
If you search the web you can find a tool that I was going to machine. Then Hobbsy (Dave) showed me a simple tool that can be made in 30 second with a scrap piece of Nyrod. I hope he still has a picture of it because that is all you need. I like it because it is so simple.The Nyrod has a small piece of 2-56 threaded rod screwed in it that fits the hole in the cam. The Nyrod fits perfect in the pushrod hole in the cam cover. It works perfect and is simple and easy to make.

Pete

Last edited by modeltronics; 07-16-2019 at 04:42 PM.
Old 07-16-2019, 04:58 PM
  #41413  
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Hey great, thanks for sharing. Yeah, Dave has some good tricks up his sleeves.
Old 07-16-2019, 05:08 PM
  #41414  
Hobbsy
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A Sullivan Golden rod 1" and a piece of 2-56 all thread cut to .125, eazy peazy.

Super easy. It's precise too.
Old 07-16-2019, 05:29 PM
  #41415  
jester_s1
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Well you guys can take the complication out of anything!
I did see the tool suggestion when I read a thread on tear down and reassembly. I had thought about making one from the right sized nail, but I figured it couldn't be that hard to line it up right long enough to put a bolt in it. I'll make a nyrod tool and check the timing when I put new o rings on the carburetor.
If I understand it right, I should be able to put the tool in so it engages the cam hole at the same time the piston is at TDC, right? So I could use it to check the timing without taking off the gear housing?
Old 07-16-2019, 05:38 PM
  #41416  
Jesse Open
 
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Ya know,
Thanks to you fellas, I may never look at anyone named "Bruce" the same way again.

Not sure if that is a good thing though?
Old 07-16-2019, 05:50 PM
  #41417  
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Jester, you have to get the intake lifter out of the cam box to put the tool in. That requires, at the very least, removing the 2 carb screws, lifting the cylinder and removing the intake push rod, push rod tube and the lower push rod tube seal. You may then be able to get the lifter out with a strong magnet.

I find it easier to remove the back plate, cylinder and cam box as well. Just makes it less frustrating for me to get the lifter out. I leave the carb and intake attached to cylinder; less chance of damaging an oring that way.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 07-16-2019 at 05:54 PM.
Old 07-16-2019, 06:42 PM
  #41418  
jester_s1
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Ah, I forgot about needing to get lifter out. I'll reset the timing and do the orings. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
Old 07-16-2019, 07:17 PM
  #41419  
the Wasp
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jester_s1, thank you for calling it Nyrod, I bought 2 packages of it 18 years ago and I only have 6 inches of it left, it's the only thing I use for the throttle linkage. but I tried to order some and could not find it. I was going nuts, no one had it, I had to have it, then I found it, it is now called Gold-n Rod, and Do-Bro makes it.

I don't like the new name, but it still works great for the throttle

Jim
Old 07-16-2019, 10:41 PM
  #41420  
Rudolph Hart
 
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
Ya know,
Thanks to you fellas, I may never look at anyone named "Bruce" the same way again.

Not sure if that is a good thing though?
Oh things could always get worse...
Old 07-17-2019, 02:04 AM
  #41421  
Hobbsy
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Originally Posted by jester_s1
Well you guys can take the complication out of anything!
I did see the tool suggestion when I read a thread on tear down and reassembly. I had thought about making one from the right sized nail, but I figured it couldn't be that hard to line it up right long enough to put a bolt in it. I'll make a nyrod tool and check the timing when I put new o rings on the carburetor.
If I understand it right, I should be able to put the tool in so it engages the cam hole at the same time the piston is at TDC, right? So I could use it to check the timing without taking off the gear housing?
There is an easier method of checking the timing, pull the glow plug, turn the engine to the top of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of the intake stroke. At top dead center both valves should be open a little and by the same amount and when moving the crank back forth the valves should alternately open and close simultaneously.
Old 07-17-2019, 02:08 AM
  #41422  
Hobbsy
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Originally Posted by the Wasp
jester_s1, thank you for calling it Nyrod, I bought 2 packages of it 18 years ago and I only have 6 inches of it left, it's the only thing I use for the throttle linkage. but I tried to order some and could not find it. I was going nuts, no one had it, I had to have it, then I found it, it is now called Gold-n Rod, and Do-Bro makes it.

I don't like the new name, but it still works great for the throttle

Jim
Sullivan Golden Rod: https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?I=LXFU91&P=ML
Old 07-17-2019, 04:39 AM
  #41423  
FlyerInOKC
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
I prefer these less temperature sensitive then Golden Rods.

https://www.dubro.com/collections/pu...s/36-lazer-rod
Old 07-17-2019, 06:36 AM
  #41424  
Glowgeek
 
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
I prefer these less temperature sensitive then Golden Rods.

https://www.dubro.com/collections/pu...s/36-lazer-rod

Heck yeah, I'd hate for my cam timing to go out of trim!

Seriously though, I haven't tried those dubros.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 07-17-2019 at 06:42 AM.
Old 07-17-2019, 06:44 AM
  #41425  
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Here’s some fabric we sell.

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