Welcome to Club SAITO !


Get them while you can, from what I get from their web site is that once the molds have reached the end of their usefulness, they won't make new ones. Seems like a sure fire way to put an end to a business.

My Feedback: (6)

I think the guy running is doing more lucrative items in his fiberglass business. The RC stuff is just a sideline. That said I have bought from him recently and the quality was quite good.

My Feedback: (18)

If anyone is interested, I used a heat gun on the 1.80 carb that was between two pieces of plywood in a vise. It took about 15 seconds to get some movement. I removed the barrel and cleaned it up. Everything is back together and sitting in my Balsa USA Cub where it belongs.
Thanks for the input.
Thanks for the input.

[QUOTE=acdii;12555991]Supposed to be cold here tomorrow. Right now it is 42*, was 49* when I arrived at work. I have a couple things I need to get done outside tomorrow, then the rest of the weekend will be in my shop finishing up my Liberty Sport.
Hey Mike the Crunch, are you interested in building a Liberty Sport from a short kit? I am almost done creating the burn files and want someone to sample build one besides me. Would make a great little plane to mount a Saito on.[/
sure
Hey Mike the Crunch, are you interested in building a Liberty Sport from a short kit? I am almost done creating the burn files and want someone to sample build one besides me. Would make a great little plane to mount a Saito on.[/
sure

My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 23 Likes
on
23 Posts

Too bad you don't live nearby. I have one that I would give you.
Dave, some triangular stock blocks, epoxied in place around the top of the firewall can be helpful. A few high- time Rascal 110 are showing up with loose firewall tops. The landing gear blocks, like with many Seagull built ARF can be a weak point too.


My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 23 Likes
on
23 Posts

If anyone is interested, I used a heat gun on the 1.80 carb that was between two pieces of plywood in a vise. It took about 15 seconds to get some movement. I removed the barrel and cleaned it up. Everything is back together and sitting in my Balsa USA Cub where it belongs.
Thanks for the input.
Thanks for the input.

My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 23 Likes
on
23 Posts

[QUOTE=Captcrunch44;12556021]
Great lookin plane.
Supposed to be cold here tomorrow. Right now it is 42*, was 49* when I arrived at work. I have a couple things I need to get done outside tomorrow, then the rest of the weekend will be in my shop finishing up my Liberty Sport.
Hey Mike the Crunch, are you interested in building a Liberty Sport from a short kit? I am almost done creating the burn files and want someone to sample build one besides me. Would make a great little plane to mount a Saito on.[/
sure
Hey Mike the Crunch, are you interested in building a Liberty Sport from a short kit? I am almost done creating the burn files and want someone to sample build one besides me. Would make a great little plane to mount a Saito on.[/
sure



The only thing I didn't do was take an inventory before starting, so some of my counts may be off. I hope mine looks as good as that one when it's done. Hardest part will be finding two different shades of gray.

My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 23 Likes
on
23 Posts

I just read Clarence Lee's review of the Saito 1.82, in it he says to run the engine to peak power then enrich the right cylinder until the rpm is reduced by 300 rpm. Next, do the same for the left cylinder, to my thinking that would be 600 rpm down from peak and that's a whole lot of down. Toss me some thoughts please.

I just read Clarence Lee's review of the Saito 1.82, in it he says to run the engine to peak power then enrich the right cylinder until the rpm is reduced by 300 rpm. Next, do the same for the left cylinder, to my thinking that would be 600 rpm down from peak and that's a whole lot of down. Toss me some thoughts please.
1. Most people tune 300-500 rich per cylinder with a full tank of fuel. That would probably equate to 150-250 rich at around 1/2 tank (per cylinder).
2. How many people had a tach in 1996? I doubt I could hear any less than a 300 rpm drop.
3. Better safe than sorry?
Last edited by Glowgeek; 10-12-2019 at 05:37 AM.

I switched fuel manufacturers and/or blends at least 8 times in last last 5 years. About the time I figured out how much smoke I needed to see with each engine I switched again. I now use a tach for richening the hsn. I still use smoke to get me in the ballpark for idle and transition though, then fine tune from there.
I have been using only Morgan's this year so things are calming down fuel wise.
For 4 strokes: Morgan's 15% Omega and 15% Cool Power mixed 50/50. The resulting mix is approx 15% synthetic/ 2.5% castor.
I have been using only Morgan's this year so things are calming down fuel wise.
For 4 strokes: Morgan's 15% Omega and 15% Cool Power mixed 50/50. The resulting mix is approx 15% synthetic/ 2.5% castor.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 10-12-2019 at 05:59 AM.

I switched fuel manufacturers and/or blends at least 8 times in last last 5 years. About the time I figured out how much smoke I needed to see with each engine I switched again. I now use a tach for richening the hsn. I still use smoke to get me in the ballpark for idle and transition though, then fine tune from there.
i run whatever fuel and tune by ear.
The only time I use a tach is when someone wants numbers

like I say I think there tons of engine’s out there were they tried the hobby and gave up after there first trainer.

The GK 100 I got was brand new. The guy could not get it to run, sent it to HH and they couldn't get it to run. All it needed was to reset the LSN and it runs great. Lowest idling engine I ever had too. It would sit and pop at about 1200 RPM forever. I ran out of servo adjustment trying to kill it.

Don't get me wrong, that 50 you sent is not a low run timer. Heavy carbon deposits on the exh valve stem and only two tiny spots on the piston ring edge had the original grinding marks. Cam has wide wear marks etc. Whoever ran it took pretty good care of it until they/someone ran it with gummed up tappet bores. It should overhaul nicely.
I really don't have any long term engine wear data with regards to fuel/oil blends so I'm always asking.
Thanks
I really don't have any long term engine wear data with regards to fuel/oil blends so I'm always asking.
Thanks
Last edited by Glowgeek; 10-12-2019 at 08:07 AM.

Acdii yeah my 100 on the hog is like that I lost the competition at Sig because I couldn’t get the damn thing to die
Wasp
I would say I am bad at the engine care I have three planes in the truck been bouncing around in there for weeks. I think today I should get them out and oil and prep for winter
Wasp
I would say I am bad at the engine care I have three planes in the truck been bouncing around in there for weeks. I think today I should get them out and oil and prep for winter