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Old 11-09-2019, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
Posting a brand new, high compression early FA-80.
Complete with the rare and snazzy, lightweight one piece aluminum muffler. Also, the aluminum exhaust pipe.
And you know I love 80s. Please PM me the price and I'll see if I can guilt trip the kids for Christmas!
Old 11-09-2019, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by the Wasp
regulators,

that Magnum 180 4st I had was highly sensitive to fuel levels, every thing in my mind told me a regulator would fix the problem, I never found out if I was correct in thinking that. I was thinking the engine would have to run fatter to pull the fuel with a regulator, therefore at lower fuel levels the engine would not go as lean,,, again, I never found out.

I had a couple guys that had been in the hobby years and years longer than me tell me a regulator will not help without a pump or very good tank pressure, today that makes good sense to me.

I do know the YS and OS Heli engines that come with regulators pressurize their fuel tanks from the back plate and use a one-way valve. to add, I now can say that I do remember the sound I heard when my friend would release the pressure from his Helii's fuel tank (the engine was the YS 80), the tank was very well pressurized.

edited, the OS 4st's that come with a regulator also come with a pump,,, the plastic pump don't cost much, only an arm and a leg, $80.

https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXUTN4&P=7

Jim
Jim, I wondered that very thing concerning the Iron Bay regulator, it uses a Schrader valve for the output. John at Iron Bay said, it only takes a breath, he was right. Even the little 30 with it's air bleed carb can operate either the Cline or the Iron Bay. Some claim that an air bleed carb can't work with a regulator, somebody forgot to tell the carb. Think about it this way Jim, without pressure there's nothing to regulate.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 11-09-2019 at 03:41 PM.
Old 11-09-2019, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
My old neighbor in Mo. put a chevy 327 in his toyota pickup, it had TOYLET written on the tailgate.

oh that's a good one

Jim
Old 11-09-2019, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Jim, I wondered that very thing concerning the Iron Bay regulator, it uses a Schrader valve for the output. John at Iron Bay said, it only takes a breath, he was right. Even the little 30 with it's air bleed carb can operate either the Cline or the Iron Bay. Some claim that an air bleed carb can't work with a regulator, somebody forgot to tell the carb. Think about it this way Jim, without pressure there's nothing to regulate.

I have a Perry pump, traded some hobby stuff for it. the guy said it only had like 6 flights on it, and it looks like it too. he said it came with an OS 90 heli engine.

I plan to use the pump and my regulator on my 115 in the VQ P-40.

Jim
Old 11-09-2019, 07:48 PM
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What are you guys using for gasket material? I have a 120S that needs a crankcase rear cover gasket.
Old 11-10-2019, 03:31 AM
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Originally Posted by retransit
What are you guys using for gasket material? I have a 120S that needs a crankcase rear cover gasket.
Here you go Bob, it's been a while.
ICBIMProducts.com - Saito FA-120, FA-150, FA-180 (Series 'A')-505054

http://icbimproducts.com/gaskets/new...php?groupid=80

She ships quickly.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 11-10-2019 at 03:40 AM. Reason: Add content
Old 11-10-2019, 03:56 AM
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That's where I bought my last 4 sets from. They seem fine.

For a back plate gasket card stock works fine in a pinch. Something .008"-.010" thickness.
Old 11-10-2019, 03:57 AM
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VP 40 for gas
Originally Posted by the Wasp

I have a Perry pump, traded some hobby stuff for it. the guy said it only had like 6 flights on it, and it looks like it too. he said it came with an OS 90 heli engine.

I plan to use the pump and my regulator on my 115 in the VQ P-40.

Jim
Jim, I'm curious, is your Perry pump the shaker driven one or the crankcase pulse driven one, Thanks, Dave

I dug it up, Thanks

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Old 11-10-2019, 04:11 AM
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
And you know I love 80s. Please PM me the price and I'll see if I can guilt trip the kids for Christmas!
Todd, I have one of those, mine turns a Scimitar 13x6 at 10,100 on 10% fuel.
Good review here: Saito FA-80
Old 11-10-2019, 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by retransit
What are you guys using for gasket material? I have a 120S that needs a crankcase rear cover gasket.

Typing paper, 24 pound stock. I spray it heavily with liquid car wax and let it dry out. Easier to cut and it seals well.
Old 11-10-2019, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Captcrunch44


like put a Chevy engine in a Ford. It just donít belong

I know for a fact, this ford has a Chevrolet engine under the hood. Likely there are more Chevrolet powered fords than vice-versa
Old 11-10-2019, 05:45 AM
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I use gasket material that you get from a couple companies that are already pre-shaped to what I need.
Old 11-10-2019, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open



I know for a fact, this ford has a Chevrolet engine under the hood. Likely there are more Chevrolet powered fords than vice-versa
of course youíre talking about street rod classics?
Old 11-10-2019, 06:34 AM
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Received my bearings the other day. They came in with metal shields. Can I take this off? I feel that the rear bearing should be open and the inside of the front bearing should be open.
Old 11-10-2019, 07:24 AM
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Thanks for the link and replies to my gasket question.

I dropped out of the hobby for about six years and it amazes me how many suppliers, manufacturers, products, etc. have disappeared in that period of time. It's getting to be almost impossible to find 4-stroke nitro fuel locally. I still have almost all of my R/C equipment, including Saitos, but replacement parts are non-existent. I guess we're all becoming dinosaurs.
Old 11-10-2019, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Captcrunch44
Received my bearings the other day. They came in with metal shields. Can I take this off? I feel that the rear bearing should be open and the inside of the front bearing should be open.

Yep, just peel them out.
Metal shields don't seal out oil though. There is plenty of clearance for oil to move thru the bearings.
Old 11-10-2019, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open



Yep, just peel them out.
Metal shields don't seal out oil though. There is plenty of clearance for oil to move thru the bearings.
ok thanks Gary
Old 11-10-2019, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by retransit
Thanks for the link and replies to my gasket question.

I dropped out of the hobby for about six years and it amazes me how many suppliers, manufacturers, products, etc. have disappeared in that period of time. It's getting to be almost impossible to find 4-stroke nitro fuel locally. I still have almost all of my R/C equipment, including Saitos, but replacement parts are non-existent. I guess we're all becoming dinosaurs.

yes it has been a disappointing last few years. There has been a few times I have gone to buy something and that suppler has closed shop.
the other thing that is a little disappointing is the switch to electric. Not sure why this is happening but it canít be because of noise. I believe some have just gone to get away from the oil. That seems to be the biggest thing in the hobby that has been a constant lots of pilots donít like the oily mess.
i say long live glow, I personally love the sound smell and oil.
Old 11-10-2019, 09:44 AM
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Yes I agree, there is something about an I.C. engine cranking up the revs that I like. And, the 4-stroke sound makes it even better. As far as electrics are concerned, I think if you look around at the flying fields, aircraft model types are overwhelmingly ARF's. At least that is what I see at our field. Instant gratification and they avoid (ugh!) the mess of glue. Building and repairing, for me, is more than 50% of the fun. But then, I've been at it (minus some breaks) for over 60 years.
Old 11-10-2019, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open



Yep, just peel them out.
Metal shields don't seal out oil though. There is plenty of clearance for oil to move thru the bearings.
It seems sealed bearings don't keep oil out either. Two engines I tore down after 1hr of run time to replace SS bearings with hard chrome ones had no grease left in the sealed front bearings. For that matter I haven't seen any grease in any bearings I've taken out of an rc engine. Sealed bearings are supposed to be greased for the life of the bearing but I'm not so sure that applies to our application. Maybe it's the heat combined with the constant pulsing of crankcase pressure that works the grease out of sealed bearings?

That said, I always remove seals/shields from rear bearings.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 11-10-2019 at 09:59 AM.
Old 11-10-2019, 10:03 AM
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AFAIK NO P-51 Ever went WEEEE as it flew by, well except for the pilot saying WEEEEE. An Electric prop driven Warbird is blaspheme!
Old 11-10-2019, 10:04 AM
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I now have two very happy running stock fa45 engines. They both turn an apc 10x6 at 9800 peak.

Thanks to all who sent parts!
Old 11-10-2019, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by retransit
Yes I agree, there is something about an I.C. engine cranking up the revs that I like. And, the 4-stroke sound makes it even better. As far as electrics are concerned, I think if you look around at the flying fields, aircraft model types are overwhelmingly ARF's. At least that is what I see at our field. Instant gratification and they avoid (ugh!) the mess of glue. Building and repairing, for me, is more than 50% of the fun. But then, I've been at it (minus some breaks) for over 60 years.
yup
vary few people actually build and boy if youíre on a forum that says balsa building. The ARF guys get kinda of upset when there not included in that. I say fly what you want but donít get upset when a group doesnít acknowledge what youíre doing.
Old 11-10-2019, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
It seems sealed bearings don't keep oil out either. Two engines I tore down after 1hr of run time to replace SS bearings with hard chrome ones had no grease left in the sealed front bearings. For that matter I haven't seen any grease in any bearings I've taken out of an rc engine. Sealed bearings are supposed to be greased for the life of the bearing but I'm not so sure that applies to our application. Maybe it's the heat combined with the constant pulsing of crankcase pressure that works the grease out of sealed bearings?

That said, I always remove seals/shields from rear bearings.
So true, even without any applied pressure, ARO will run right out through the front bearing.
Old 11-10-2019, 11:04 AM
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Amen Crunchy, people fly what they want and should keep negative comments to themselves. It kills the fun. Arf, Arc, Kit , Scratch, build or buy there's a purpose to them all. I fly some of each and I can say for certain that I have no interest in scratch building the kind of 3D planes that are available as arfs today ie laser cut plywood/carbon fiber composites.

66į and light S/SW winds today...... It's off to the field for me.

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