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Old 08-09-2020, 06:30 PM
  #47201  
the Wasp
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC View Post
Thank you but that is a Pete N Poke wing not an Astro Hog wing. I received the airplane partially built without the plans but from what I have been able to download in the manual/plans area there is no washout called for. I have been debating one thing so please feel free to chime in. The static struts are non load bearing and just kind of float in slots at both ends. I think the airplane looks better with them so I will keep them. My quandary is should I paint them pink to match the main struts or cover them in red Monokote to match the border going on the tail feathers and some of the decals? What do you think?

how about striping the static struts (round) yellow and black like a danger sign. after all, there will be two Panthers in that plane

Jim
Old 08-10-2020, 05:26 AM
  #47202  
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You guys are creative, I just copy the scheme on the kit box or someone else's scheme I find online. I've always been creative musically but I've got nothing in my bag for artwork.

1971 Pearl Wood/Fiberglass 9 piece kit.

Picture taken in 1987
Old 08-10-2020, 06:49 AM
  #47203  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek View Post
15x8? Good prop for an fa125 or fg21. Your fa100 would be happier with a 15x6 or 14x8. Just say'n.

FA100
15% nitro, apc props, f plug

15x8, 8200, 9.91 thrust, 1.667 hp
16x6, 8500, 13.45 thrust, 1.739 hp
14x8, 9250, 9.35 thrust, 1.751 hp
15x6, 9400, 12.71 thrust, 1.816 hp.

So you can see, by swapping out the 15x8 for a 15x6 you will gain almost 3 lbs of thrust, put your engine in a better rpm band for fuel economy and snappier throttle response as well as help it to run cooler.

More thrust it always good for high drag float planes and by increasing thrust you may find the plane flies faster with the 15x6 than the 15x8.

Hillbillies unite!
Two degrees of pitch definitely make a difference. I need to play with it a bit
I have a full set of APC props for bench testing.
i threw a three blade MAS 14/6 at it also. Reduced the pickup spray nicely and flew it ok, even though it looks a little silly.
Thanks for the good help here....
Old 08-10-2020, 09:12 AM
  #47204  
acdii
 
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Finished the new cowl I made for the Chipmunk yesterday and got the 90* adapter and muffler installed. Now I just need a new tank and spinner and get it all plumbed in and ready to fly.




The 100 sticks out just a little bit more than the Magnum did, so I had a choice, use the existing cowl Tee-nuts and let it stick out, or redo them all, which would be a PITA, so I let it stick out a bit. I also need to install a baffle inside the cowl.
Old 08-10-2020, 11:16 AM
  #47205  
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the cowl looks great ! and I like how you bowed out the lower side for exiting the hot air !

now, if you want to make me a cowl for my .60 size ShoeString let me know LOL

Jim
Old 08-10-2020, 11:33 AM
  #47206  
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Originally Posted by the Wasp View Post
the cowl looks great ! and I like how you bowed out the lower side for exiting the hot air !

now, if you want to make me a cowl for my .60 size ShoeString let me know LOL

Jim
I could, but would need an original. Might take me a year to get around to it.

Trying to decide on a prop for it. 14 x 6, or 15 x 6. I know the 15 x 6 works pretty good on the Cub, but I don't have anymore Evolutions left.
Old 08-10-2020, 11:56 AM
  #47207  
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LOL quote (Might take me a year to get around to it)

LOL that's just what I was thinking LOL. I have the original cowl, it's all there but it's all cracked up..

I have a brand new 40 size cowl I am trying to fit, it will fit around the top, but to keep it from cracking the sides and bottom need to be flush with the sides and bottom of the fuse.

I called Towers once, asked if they had a new 60 size ShoeString cowl, the guy told me no but he said he would look for me. he came back to the phone and said no 60 size cowls but he had one 40 size cowl, he said it was the last one and he would ship it to me free, he told me maybe I could make it fit,, so he shipped it to me, free. so that's how I got this 40 size cowl.

I tell you, it was a big mistake to stop producing the 60 ShoeString !! it's the most wonderful flying sport plane !! I could land it and go to full throttle and it would run down the runway on 2 wheels for a good 100ft before I would let it lift off. the guys at the field got a kick out of that. it's a very fun plane.

Jim
Old 08-10-2020, 02:16 PM
  #47208  
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Originally Posted by acdii View Post
I could, but would need an original. Might take me a year to get around to it.

Trying to decide on a prop for it. 14 x 6, or 15 x 6. I know the 15 x 6 works pretty good on the Cub, but I don't have anymore Evolutions left.
There's really not that much difference between a plastic Evolution prop and an apc. A little black RIT dye and a 48 hour soak will make a nice black apc prop.

A 14x6 apc is not enough prop for a 100, a xoar 14x6 is barely enough load. Peak rpm will be over 10k using either one. A 15x6 is too slow for a Chippie imo.

An apc or xoar 14x8 would be my starting prop for a Chippie/100 combo. Peak rpm will be around 9300 on the ground (9000 richened for flight).

Just me thinking out loud.

Old 08-10-2020, 02:59 PM
  #47209  
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Originally Posted by acdii View Post
Finished the new cowl I made for the Chipmunk yesterday and got the 90* adapter and muffler installed. Now I just need a new tank and spinner and get it all plumbed in and ready to fly.


The 100 sticks out just a little bit more than the Magnum did, so I had a choice, use the existing cowl Tee-nuts and let it stick out, or redo them all, which would be a PITA, so I let it stick out a bit. I also need to install a baffle inside the cowl.

Did you make a mold of the original cowl, and if so how did you go about it. I.m not a stranger to one off glass cowls, but have never made a mold to make a duplicate cowl. I have a fiber glass cowl and wheel pants for a 1/3 scale Pitts I would not mind have a mold of to make replacements if I needed to. Could say the same for the canopy, but an entirely different skill set, but i reckon a mold would be the same.

Ken
Old 08-10-2020, 03:53 PM
  #47210  
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I got digging around I found a 13x6 new in my he package if you want it pm me your address. Iíll also throw in a 3 blade evolution prop. I have a dozen of them. I bought a box of props from a guy years ago and probably wonít use them.


Originally Posted by acdii View Post
I wish Evolution still made props. Paired with the Fa-100, the 15 x 6, or was it an 8, flew the Cub beautifully. At just under half throttle it looked and sounded like a Cub, but open up up and it was like a rocket was strapped to the tail. You know it's bookin when the guy wires sing.
Old 08-10-2020, 06:54 PM
  #47211  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek View Post
There's really not that much difference between a plastic Evolution prop and an apc. A little black RIT dye and a 48 hour soak will make a nice black apc prop.

A 14x6 apc is not enough prop for a 100, a xoar 14x6 is barely enough load. Peak rpm will be over 10k using either one. A 15x6 is too slow for a Chippie imo.

An apc or xoar 14x8 would be my starting prop for a Chippie/100 combo. Peak rpm will be around 9300 on the ground (9000 richened for flight).

Just me thinking out loud.
OOF I meant 14 x 8, I was holding a 14 x 6 at the time. The Evolution prop has a wider blade than the APC, with flatter tips, and I was really impressed with how it yanked the Cub around, but as you said, may not be enough for the Chippy, need more thrust than speed.

Originally Posted by flyingagin View Post
Did you make a mold of the original cowl, and if so how did you go about it. I.m not a stranger to one off glass cowls, but have never made a mold to make a duplicate cowl. I have a fiber glass cowl and wheel pants for a 1/3 scale Pitts I would not mind have a mold of to make replacements if I needed to. Could say the same for the canopy, but an entirely different skill set, but i reckon a mold would be the same.

Ken
I made a mold of the original ABS cowl, my first, so it has a few flaws. On this one I new I needed to add some weight to the nose, so made the cowl thicker in some areas to add weight, and I rushed it a bit and got some air pockets on the outer layer, which can be seen by the pitting, but most of it I filled in with body putty. The first one I made was thin, and got beat up on the bad dead stick landing in the corn, so decided to just make a new one instead of attempting to fix it.

Originally Posted by erieqc View Post
I got digging around I found a 13x6 new in my he package if you want it pm me your address. Iíll also throw in a 3 blade evolution prop. I have a dozen of them. I bought a box of props from a guy years ago and probably wonít use them.
Thanks for the offer, but need 14 x 8. I have to look around I may have one, if not I can pick one up when I get the fuel tank and spinner.
Old 08-10-2020, 09:47 PM
  #47212  
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this little guy is running good


Jim
Old 08-11-2020, 04:35 AM
  #47213  
FlyerInOKC
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Nice!
Old 08-11-2020, 04:52 AM
  #47214  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC View Post
Nice!
Seconded
Old 08-11-2020, 06:05 AM
  #47215  
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The white tops have been added to the MA Classic, a little over spray on the left, (our left) blade, easily rubbed off, I think. Ford Platinum white.


Old 08-11-2020, 06:28 AM
  #47216  
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You gents will get a kick out of this, I am rebuilding a Saito 120-s, I was all proud when I thought I was all done. The engine would only turn about 25 degrees and lock up either direction. Long story short you can't get away with putting a 150 crankshaft in a120. Re-do in progress.
Old 08-11-2020, 06:46 AM
  #47217  
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Stuff like that can give you a flat forehead from beating your head against the wall!
Old 08-11-2020, 09:10 AM
  #47218  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy View Post
The white tops have been added to the MA Classic, a little over spray on the left, (our left) blade, easily rubbed off, I think. Ford Platinum white.
May come off with acetone or lighter fluid.

Tip of the day:
To get a nice crisp paint line shoot the first coat super thin and wait for it to tack up, then shoot your second coat. Keeps the paint from sneaking under the tape edge.
Old 08-11-2020, 09:30 AM
  #47219  
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Dave, no problem on that 150 crank, just shorten the rod, a good welder could weld it up for you

Jim
Old 08-11-2020, 09:31 AM
  #47220  
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hey, now I got myself wondering how well that would work LOL

Jim
Old 08-11-2020, 11:34 AM
  #47221  
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Originally Posted by the Wasp View Post
hey, now I got myself wondering how well that would work LOL

Jim
May not hit the head, but most certainly would hit the crank.
Old 08-11-2020, 11:57 AM
  #47222  
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Luckily I had put some copper based never seize inside the prop driver and it popped right off. I nearly busted the puller the first time I removed the driver from the 120 crank. Thanks friends.
Old 08-11-2020, 02:50 PM
  #47223  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy View Post
Luckily I had put some copper based never seize inside the prop driver and it popped right off. I nearly busted the puller the first time I removed the driver from the 120 crank. Thanks friends.
If they're stuck I leave medium tension on the puller and apply heat to the prop drive until it pops off. Works every time.
Old 08-11-2020, 05:10 PM
  #47224  
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Originally Posted by acdii View Post
May not hit the head, but most certainly would hit the crank.
the piston skirts could be cut

Jim
Old 08-11-2020, 07:08 PM
  #47225  
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Originally Posted by the Wasp View Post
the piston skirts could be cut

Jim
Use 74"pistons with 80 inch flywheels, er wrong group of motorheads lol stroker saitos needing clearance.
what next , plates under the jugs.
too much fun

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