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Old 09-14-2020, 02:20 PM
  #47951  
FlyerInOKC
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Well boys I just got the updated diagnosis is unstable angina which is a step down from a heart attack. Enzymes indicate NO HEART damage! I do have some enlargment on the right side they blame on my lung condition. The bad news is they can't fix it and I won't really get much if any better, but they can manage it so it doesn't get any worse. I see the cardiologist next week to fill in the details. My daughter in-law will pick me up in a couple of hours to take me home. Man, that is one good looking 125!
Old 09-14-2020, 04:06 PM
  #47952  
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So they say no such thing as a dumb question . . . . . here's one for ya'll. Got a FA150 and the fuel nipple points strait up. Is it "adjustable"? Think I'd like to go to the firewall.

Thanx
Mike Brennan
Saito 723
Old 09-14-2020, 04:34 PM
  #47953  
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Tri****man,
Yes, you may carefully reposition that fuel inlet.





Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Depends on what Dave meant by all up weight. Is that with or without muffler? Even if all up weight means w/o muffler the 125 is 9 oz lighter than the FH. A considerable difference to be sure.

I bought my 120 FH just to experience it. It's a very clean low time engine and runs flawless. PM me if interested.

No thanks. Note, clearly my comparison was big block to big block. Again, the difference is virtually nil.

Like comparing a small block 400 to a big block 366 when considering an engine for a stake truck.
The big block will get my nod more often than not.

Last edited by Jesse Open; 09-14-2020 at 04:37 PM.
Old 09-14-2020, 05:22 PM
  #47954  
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FlyerInOKC, that may not be the best news but it is still good news. Glad you are going home.

Ken
Old 09-14-2020, 05:23 PM
  #47955  
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Finally got all the "unmentionables" run in and remounted the Fathead 120 on the test bench. A couple more tanks of fuel got the ring to fully seat and it turned an APC 15x8 (sport) at 8480-8500 peaked using 15%N. A little fiddling with the midrange dial and airbleed screw and it runs super smooth throughout the entire rpm range, even at just above idle where so many methanol engines run rough due to overly rich metering. Reminds me of a Saito gasser with it running that smooth everywhere. Sweeeet

Oops, edited numbers.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 09-14-2020 at 05:31 PM.
Old 09-14-2020, 06:32 PM
  #47956  
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Good work, that!!
The FH carb is a real gem.
Probably costs about twice as much to make over the later big block Saito carbs.
In fact, the engine itself had some fairly pricey manufacturing details in general.
Old 09-14-2020, 06:35 PM
  #47957  
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OKC

Keep up the good work. If you can't get much better, make sure you don't go worse.





Last edited by Jesse Open; 09-15-2020 at 11:24 AM.
Old 09-14-2020, 07:13 PM
  #47958  
Outrider6
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
If the brass is a too heavy Harry makes it in Aluminum too. Ninety_Hub
I received one of those today, and it almost solved my problem. I can get rid of the ounce of lead zip-tied to my engine mount, and replace it with the usable (instead of dead) weight of this hub, but the problem is that the internal threads are not deep enough, and when screwed on all the way on my Saito .62 crankshaft, there is an approx. 1/4" gap between the back of it and the front face of my prop. I hope I explained that sufficiently.

It appears that I have 4 options:

1) Find and buy a M7 x 1 tap, and hope that it might go a little deeper than the current threads. On the taps I have found, the actual length of threads on the tap is not specified, so I would be estimating and guessing. My hub is drilled about 1/2" deeper than the threads go, meaning that the threads stop about 1/2" before the bottom of the hole. I presume the part of the hole that is deeper than the threads is the same diameter as the tap drill size.

2) Take my Dremel with a cutoff wheel and shorten my crankshaft. I really, really do not want to do that, even though the shaft is a good bit longer than I will ever need.

3) Add a few washers between the front face of my prop and the back face of the hub, filling in that approx. 1/4" gap.

4) Install the prop, then the larger original prop nut (but not the smaller locking nut), then install the Higley hub. The original prop nut will fill that approx. 1/4" gap, acting as a very thick (but small diameter) washer, with the added benefit of the two nuts (the 2nd nut being the Higley hub) being jammed together, having less of a tendency to back out and spin off.

It appears to me that option #3 or #4 are the best ones, as nothing is permanently modified, and I don't have to order, wait for and pay a good bit of money for a tap. I have been unable to find a M7 x 1 tap locally, even at an Ace Hardware.

Any opinions on this, or other suggestions?
Old 09-14-2020, 07:25 PM
  #47959  
Jesse Open
 
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Get what is called a "nut tap" or look for a tap that has reduced diameter behind the thread cutting portion. Made for tapping deep holes. Don't presume the proper tap drill size below the existing hole. Probe the hole with the shank end of a proper size tap drill as a probe to estimate hole depth. Finish bottom threads with a bottoming type tap.
Old 09-14-2020, 07:39 PM
  #47960  
Outrider6
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
Get what is called a "nut tap" or look for a tap that has reduced diameter behind the thread cutting portion. Made for tapping deep holes. Don't presume the proper tap drill size below the existing hole. Probe the hole with the shank end of a proper size tap drill as a probe to estimate hole depth. Finish bottom threads with a bottoming type tap.
Viable options, but lots of searching and $$. I think I will do the washer rodeo.
Old 09-14-2020, 08:16 PM
  #47961  
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Perhaps you had it at the top of your options list in error(?)

Six or seven bucks for a tap and die is indeed a huge investment
Thirty seconds doing a search on eBay is downright exhausting
.

Last edited by Jesse Open; 09-14-2020 at 08:25 PM.
Old 09-14-2020, 08:25 PM
  #47962  
the Wasp
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Saito 120 FatHead, all up weight==33.5 oz

Saito 120-s with muffler, weight===34.639 oz

Saito 125 Fat Free, all up wright==24.69 oz

OS 61Fx smelly 2st,
weight.. 25+oz with Muffler

Saito wins again !

Jim
Old 09-14-2020, 11:13 PM
  #47963  
Monty Python
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Originally Posted by flyingagin
FlyerInOKC, that may not be the best news but it is still good news. Glad you are going home.

Ken
+1 on that, shame he missed out on the wheel chair races.

Dave that was a good joke about the "fat free" fa125...i hate those meeces to peeces

Gary after spending most of my working life in large smash repair shops i'll hazard a guess that you bounced off something substantial or got t-boned before drilling the pole dead centre. My experience has been that not many customers have the cool minded skill set to do that that well and finish the job.

O6 i first though your washer idea would be the easiest solution, but then wondered if it was a good idea to have unthreaded steel washers maybe damaging the crankshaft threads. A very thick custom made threaded nut ? not sure if i like the idea of locking up the higley nut to the small main prop nut which has tapered edges and small flat face area (just big enough for the small standard lock nut to lock up on)

ps mike i just had an idea if it's not too late, you could always hire a wheel chair to take home and chase alice round the house
Old 09-15-2020, 02:52 AM
  #47964  
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Originally Posted by Outrider6
Viable options, but lots of searching and $$. I think I will do the washer rodeo.

OR: this guy should fix you up, unless I'm completely missing the boat; Product Listing -

http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store...exact_match=on Maybe this




Last edited by Hobbsy; 09-15-2020 at 03:01 AM.
Old 09-15-2020, 03:40 AM
  #47965  
Jesse Open
 
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Dave,
Good suggestion but it costs over twice as much as the already "too expensive" and "too hard to find" tap

Pete,

Yep, you called it. A big SUV punched the HHR in the "A" pillar.
Quite a ride; everything turned yellow when the airbags fired. Just as the bags deflated I caught a glimpse of the lighting pole. At first I thought the car was on fire, had to bail out thru the passenger door. As I was walking out of the field, I realized there were downed power lines lurking. Funny thing, for 35 years after donating a kidney I had a rib that stuck up a couple of inches. The surgeons had popped it out but it never went back in place. After the wreck , one rib was broken and that rib was back in place!
Old 09-15-2020, 03:41 AM
  #47966  
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Originally Posted by Outrider6
I received one of those today, and it almost solved my problem. I can get rid of the ounce of lead zip-tied to my engine mount, and replace it with the usable (instead of dead) weight of this hub, but the problem is that the internal threads are not deep enough, and when screwed on all the way on my Saito .62 crankshaft, there is an approx. 1/4" gap between the back of it and the front face of my prop. I hope I explained that sufficiently.

It appears that I have 4 options:

1) Find and buy a M7 x 1 tap, and hope that it might go a little deeper than the current threads. On the taps I have found, the actual length of threads on the tap is not specified, so I would be estimating and guessing. My hub is drilled about 1/2" deeper than the threads go, meaning that the threads stop about 1/2" before the bottom of the hole. I presume the part of the hole that is deeper than the threads is the same diameter as the tap drill size.

2) Take my Dremel with a cutoff wheel and shorten my crankshaft. I really, really do not want to do that, even though the shaft is a good bit longer than I will ever need.

3) Add a few washers between the front face of my prop and the back face of the hub, filling in that approx. 1/4" gap.

4) Install the prop, then the larger original prop nut (but not the smaller locking nut), then install the Higley hub. The original prop nut will fill that approx. 1/4" gap, acting as a very thick (but small diameter) washer, with the added benefit of the two nuts (the 2nd nut being the Higley hub) being jammed together, having less of a tendency to back out and spin off.

It appears to me that option #3 or #4 are the best ones, as nothing is permanently modified, and I don't have to order, wait for and pay a good bit of money for a tap. I have been unable to find a M7 x 1 tap locally, even at an Ace Hardware.

Any opinions on this, or other suggestions?
I had the same problem with an FA56 using a Higley heavy hub, they're not drilled and tapped very deep, to retain weight. In my case I drilled the hub deeper to the appropriate size and tapped about .25" deeper. That was still not enough so I added one brass washer behind the Higley. To me it was worth the price of a tap to avoid modding the crank and to achieve the appearance I was after. I still had to add a little lead to balance.
Old 09-15-2020, 04:03 AM
  #47967  
Hobbsy
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Lonnie your 125 muffler will go out today, honest. I turned the tail piece down to make it Revised like.
Old 09-15-2020, 04:16 AM
  #47968  
Jesse Open
 
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Higley made a a thin jam nut of the same hex size as the prop nut just for cases like this one.


A weighted spacer and spigoted nut I made a few years ago. Needed nose weight that would fit inside a plastic spinner. Hence the taper.

Last edited by Jesse Open; 09-15-2020 at 04:34 AM.
Old 09-15-2020, 04:23 AM
  #47969  
Hobbsy
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Like this, I have never managed to strip one as some guys claim.


Old 09-15-2020, 04:32 AM
  #47970  
FlyerInOKC
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Originally Posted by Outrider6
I received one of those today, and it almost solved my problem. I can get rid of the ounce of lead zip-tied to my engine mount, and replace it with the usable (instead of dead) weight of this hub, but the problem is that the internal threads are not deep enough, and when screwed on all the way on my Saito .62 crankshaft, there is an approx. 1/4" gap between the back of it and the front face of my prop. I hope I explained that sufficiently.

It appears that I have 4 options:

1) Find and buy a M7 x 1 tap, and hope that it might go a little deeper than the current threads. On the taps I have found, the actual length of threads on the tap is not specified, so I would be estimating and guessing. My hub is drilled about 1/2" deeper than the threads go, meaning that the threads stop about 1/2" before the bottom of the hole. I presume the part of the hole that is deeper than the threads is the same diameter as the tap drill size.

2) Take my Dremel with a cutoff wheel and shorten my crankshaft. I really, really do not want to do that, even though the shaft is a good bit longer than I will ever need.

3) Add a few washers between the front face of my prop and the back face of the hub, filling in that approx. 1/4" gap.

4) Install the prop, then the larger original prop nut (but not the smaller locking nut), then install the Higley hub. The original prop nut will fill that approx. 1/4" gap, acting as a very thick (but small diameter) washer, with the added benefit of the two nuts (the 2nd nut being the Higley hub) being jammed together, having less of a tendency to back out and spin off.

It appears to me that option #3 or #4 are the best ones, as nothing is permanently modified, and I don't have to order, wait for and pay a good bit of money for a tap. I have been unable to find a M7 x 1 tap locally, even at an Ace Hardware.

Any opinions on this, or other suggestions?
Option 5
Put on one of these first.

http://www.harryhigley.com/index.php...&product_id=76

Light Lock LLK
Old 09-15-2020, 04:36 AM
  #47971  
Jesse Open
 
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Like this, I have never managed to strip one as some guys claim.

That is the one. Should never strip, the top nut is meant to take the load when properly installed
Old 09-15-2020, 04:44 AM
  #47972  
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Thanks and here is a Light Loc on a 50, barely visible
Old 09-15-2020, 05:42 AM
  #47973  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
That is the one. Should never strip, the top nut is meant to take the load when properly installed
I just ordered one. It looks like it will solve my problem. With the Saito prop washer ahead of the prop, then the HH Ninety Hub screwed all of the way on, the remaining gap is just less than 3/16", which is the thickness of the HH Prop Lock. Worst case, I have to shave off 1/32" from the end of my crankshaft with a file, but I doubt that will be necessary.

I probably won't need the additional weight of the nut being brass (my SSE is a little tailheavy, but I am finding that the flight characteristics are forgiving of that), but the nut isn't all that much weight, and maybe I could carefully drill some lightening holes in the nut. Grams are grams, but enough grams add up to ounces, and ounces matter. "As she said", every little bit counts.

Thanks for the advice so far.

I am loving this Saito .62, even though I had a flameout on flight #3 of my SSE. It may have been too lean, as I was vertical at about 1/2 throttle, even though I had done that before numerous times, and it didn't die. I love that engine almost as much as my Saito .40, of which I have never had to apply an electric starter. The .62 isn't very fond of being started by hand, like the .40 is, but it does pull my SSE around quite nicely. I haven't tried yet to hover the SSE, but vertical is quite unlimited at less that full throttle, so I am pretty sure it will hover the plane.
Old 09-15-2020, 06:30 AM
  #47974  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
Amen to that.

Mike, I'm sending two rear facing vents and three velocity stacks and maybe enough O-rings to seal them fairly well. Both face to the rear on the 82-B. I should be splitting wood but it's raining.
Dave the package showed up while I was in the hospital. It contained the velocity stacks but the rear facing vents were nowhere to be found. Did you leave the vents on the bench?

I dogged the stents and the heart cath because the pictures from the nuclear stress test indicated the narrow wasn't severe enough for them to help. They put me on Metoprolol to keep things moving along and prevent future blockage.
Old 09-15-2020, 07:10 AM
  #47975  
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Sorry Mike I'll have to do some digging, and see what is what. Get well my friend.

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