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Old 09-22-2020, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
That must be something new, Thanks
Not really, I signed up for Informed Delivery when we were having a problem with the Letter Carrier skipping our block. I kept it after that so I can follow my mail.
Old 09-22-2020, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
If you're talking about the "crazyengines" channel it did appear to reach 7400 rpm momentarily. If your Corsair would allow that 16x8 prop to unload to 8400 rpm in the air you'd have a 55mph hi speed pass.

Beautiful engine btw
Yep, thats the one. Will see what the 14 x 7 x 3 produces after I break it in with the 14 x 6 APC. If I get 8K I think that should be enough thrust to fly.
Old 09-22-2020, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by acdii
Yep, thats the one. Will see what the 14 x 7 x 3 produces after I break it in with the 14 x 6 APC. If I get 8K I think that should be enough thrust to fly.
Do you have a little bit lighter load prop for break in? I would run a 13x6 for break in up to 7000 rpm and then switch over to a 13x8 or maybe a 14x6 to peak the engine. I wouldn't run the 14x7x3 until I had at least 1 gallon of fuel run through it as that's going to load the engine down quite a bit heavier. Just my thoughts.

From what I've read on the 120R3 I'd say 8000 peak is a good guess using the 14x7x3. That would give you 9.78 lbs. of thrust and somewhere around 50 mph. The speed depends on how draggy the Corsair is.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 09-22-2020 at 10:19 AM.
Old 09-22-2020, 10:27 AM
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I thought you could use a little inspiration for the Corsair from another build. This is on a scratch built Curtis Hawk I am following here:
Scratchbuild a Curtiss Hawk III (BF2C-1) in 1/4.5




Old 09-22-2020, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Do you have a little bit lighter load prop for break in? I would run a 13x6 for break in up to 7000 rpm and then switch over to a 13x8 or maybe a 14x6 to peak the engine. I wouldn't run the 14x7x3 until I had at least 1 gallon of fuel run through it as that's going to load the engine down quite heavily. Just my thoughts.

From what I've read on the 120R3 I'd say 8000 peak is a good guess using the 14x7x3. That would give you 9.78 lbs. of thrust and somewhere around 50 mph. The speed depends on how draggy the Corsair is.
I tried to find an APC 13x6 but the LHS doesn't have one, only the 14" props. I have a XOAR 13 x 6, but too light for a break in prop. I have to go through my inventory still to see if I have a spare 13 x 6 since I do use that size on other planes. I want to go with a 3 blade for scale appearance on the Corsair since I went through the trouble of three paint colors that are exact matches to the navy colors.
Old 09-22-2020, 11:24 AM
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That dummy engine is Sweeeet
Old 09-22-2020, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by acdii
I tried to find an APC 13x6 but the LHS doesn't have one, only the 14" props. I have a XOAR 13 x 6, but too light for a break in prop. I have to go through my inventory still to see if I have a spare 13 x 6 since I do use that size on other planes. I want to go with a 3 blade for scale appearance on the Corsair since I went through the trouble of three paint colors that are exact matches to the navy colors.
The Xoar 13x6 will work fine. It'll load the engine a little more than the equivalent MA or APC.
Old 09-22-2020, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
I thought you could use a little inspiration for the Corsair from another build. This is on a scratch built Curtis Hawk I am following here:
Scratchbuild a Curtiss Hawk III (BF2C-1) in 1/4.5

Wow, that looks a lot better than the vac formed one I plan to use.
Old 09-22-2020, 12:21 PM
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It is a cannibalized Williams 1:5 scale Wasp kit according to the link Thomas (the builder) posted. If you follow the link to the build you can see how he did it. His scale Curtis retractable gear will blow you away!

On the prop would a 13-6 two blade wood prop help? I might have a couple, let me know and I will look and post them. I had a coupe of grey ones but I think I might have already given them away. I'll check for them too.

Mike

Last edited by FlyerInOKC; 09-22-2020 at 12:24 PM.
Old 09-22-2020, 01:30 PM
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I have a 13 x 6 Xoar, brand new, but I don't plan to fly with it. It will be either the 3 blade 13 x 7 or 14 x 7 depending on how the engine runs, OR the 14 x 6 APC 2 blade. First going to follow the manual and break it in with the 14 x 6 APC and go from there.
Old 09-22-2020, 02:48 PM
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I checked the only APCs I have are a couple of 12-6. I have one 13-8 Master Airscrew and everything else is wood.

Any of you guys use DSMS2? I picked up a couple of Orange FASST receivers and the guy threw in a Gyro with a built in DSMS2 receiver. It needs a home if anyone here is interested.

Last edited by FlyerInOKC; 09-22-2020 at 02:52 PM.
Old 09-22-2020, 03:39 PM
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I think my JR uses DSM2, have to double check.

Anyway, tried to get the 120R3 started. No go. At first I found they shipped it with the HSN fully closed, explains why no fuel flow. Got fuel flowing, no run. After some serious troubleshooting found out my power panel is shot. It will fire a single plug connected directly to it, but not very well, turn it all the way up and the power stutters. When hooked up to the three plugs wont even warm them, so have to come up with something different. I know somewhere I have a 4 cell AA tray that I can rewire to 4 parallel 1.5V, and that should fire it up. I have a hotshot with a weak battery, still not enough to fire it up, it needs hot glows to run. Manual calls for the HSN out 5 turns, so it is really rich. I will keep looking for my tray, if I can't find it I will need to order something. Bummed, I wanted to hear that sweeet triple 4 stroke sound.
Old 09-22-2020, 04:03 PM
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I use an ancient Hobbico 4,000 ma glow driver. The only one close to that size now is the McDaniel 3,800:

https://www.sonictronics.us/ni-start...-110v-charger/
Old 09-22-2020, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by acdii
I think my JR uses DSM2, have to double check.
Send me a PM if your JR can use it and I'll send it to you.
Old 09-22-2020, 05:20 PM
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I'm finding out a lot about triple + GP setups. Never realized the panel can only supply enough current for 1 plug. Mine can barely even do that. My dilemma is that I don't want holes in the cowl, I want it all concealed so it will need to have either OBG, or add a hatch to hide the switch and GP plug.
Now this looks like a good option. I have a 2100 mah 2 cell life that I use for the RX and have a second one that could be used for the glow, or use a 2600 mah lipo 3 cell. From what I read on their site I could get over an hour continuous run from it. The Lipo adds 8 ounces, the life adds 4 ounces, so I will need to determine my overall CoG with the plane fully built and see if and where and how much weight is needed to balance it. It is a lot lighter than Nicd/NiMh OBG. Between a 2200mah 3S LiPo and the driver its about 9 ounces total, the driver weighs .6 ounces.

Going to also check CHI for fun. I have enough spark plugs and caps to check the fit inside the cowl, but having CDI would be even better, though I know it will weigh even more than the the Lipo/GD, but will save on fuel use, and maybe produce a bit more power too.
Old 09-22-2020, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
It is a cannibalized Williams 1:5 scale Wasp kit according to the link Thomas (the builder) posted. If you follow the link to the build you can see how he did it. His scale Curtis retractable gear will blow you away!

On the prop would a 13-6 two blade wood prop help? I might have a couple, let me know and I will look and post them. I had a coupe of grey ones but I think I might have already given them away. I'll check for them too.

Mike

I was going to ask if that was,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, the Wasp

Jim
Old 09-22-2020, 06:28 PM
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I run a single 2500 mah 2S LiFe/A123 pack on my 60 size cdi planes. One batt runs everything including the cdi by using a Tech Aero IBEC. It's the lightest weight for cdi/methanol setups and is very reliable. As a bonus A123 batts stay charged for months, weigh less, don't puff, don't catch on fire and don't cost more than a Lipo, all things considered. On larger planes I use the same setup but use two batts and power switches for full redundancy.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 09-22-2020 at 06:33 PM.
Old 09-22-2020, 07:04 PM
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Thats how my LT-40 is set up, a single dual output Life. It powers the RX, 4 servos and the FG-11 CDI. Can fly a couple hours before a recharge too. Looking at the weights, the OBG I am looking at it the most beneficial, and least expensive option. $75 vs $250 for CDI.

Question though on GP. When all three are connected together, with a single ground, is the voltage still 1.5V? It's the lack of current that is the issue here, right? I ordered 4 of those 5/8" twist lock GP connectors, I still need one for my Liberty Sport, so ordered enough for both planes. $7 each from RadicalRC.
Old 09-22-2020, 07:24 PM
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Here is a picture for you acdii


Old 09-23-2020, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by acdii
I'm finding out a lot about triple + GP setups. Never realized the panel can only supply enough current for 1 plug. Mine can barely even do that. My dilemma is that I don't want holes in the cowl, I want it all concealed so it will need to have either OBG, or add a hatch to hide the switch and GP plug.
Now this looks like a good option. I have a 2100 mah 2 cell life that I use for the RX and have a second one that could be used for the glow, or use a 2600 mah lipo 3 cell. From what I read on their site I could get over an hour continuous run from it. The Lipo adds 8 ounces, the life adds 4 ounces, so I will need to determine my overall CoG with the plane fully built and see if and where and how much weight is needed to balance it. It is a lot lighter than Nicd/NiMh OBG. Between a 2200mah 3S LiPo and the driver its about 9 ounces total, the driver weighs .6 ounces.

Going to also check CHI for fun. I have enough spark plugs and caps to check the fit inside the cowl, but having CDI would be even better, though I know it will weigh even more than the the Lipo/GD, but will save on fuel use, and maybe produce a bit more power too.
Bruce running your fa120r3 in should be the same as my fa200r3, four turns out on the main is heaps rich. Once run in and tuned, new saito fa triples usually run too rich on the lower l/h cylinder as you look at the front of the engine for at least a gallon, it's the only plug you will need onboard glow for during the early flights. While running in on the bench it is easier to leave a glowstick plugged in to that cylinder if you plan to let it run at low rpm for more than 30 secs. As you know when turning over a saito single by hand with no glow power, the prop can flick back violently and smack the back of your fingers so hard you end up dancing around the workshop shaking your hand, like someone dancing to (that all sounds the same) mexican hi yi yi music. The fa120r3 is so smooth you can casually pull them through powered up for a start or not, even just give the spinner a twirl between finger and thumb, they start easy. That's why having a heavy prop for run in is not needed, they don't vibrate except for the first really rich run, even then not much. It's ok, you can thank me later.
Old 09-23-2020, 03:17 AM
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I spoke Boca Bearing's engineer, he said that the number of bearing failures I've seen lately does sound out of the ordinary. I explained my techniques for bearing install and the lube package in my fuel, no problem there. He says the hard chrome bearings are C3 rated and that little to no radial or axial slop should be detectable at the operating temps of our engines.

The bearings I use are very common. He says they are ordered in huge quantities from their China supplier and none have been ordered since long before covid started, so no change in the QA dept. Puzzling? Maybe not. Maybe they're just "hit or miss" on quality as some have claimed. At any rate, Boca's customer service is great. I've never had to pay for replacement bearings that failed prematurely and come to think of it, I've never had the replacements fail.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 09-23-2020 at 03:26 AM.
Old 09-23-2020, 03:32 AM
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1. Mount the engine on the sturdy test bench with correct parallelism or on the fuselage. Fix the test bench or fuselage to prevent moving.
2. Use a fuel tank with a capacity of 300-400cc to test the engine on the bench, or use the adequate tank on the fuselage.
3. Use fuel with approx. 20% of oil and 15% of nitro content, other than low-oil fuel.
4. For test prepare APC14”x6” prop (Standard rotation at approx. 9,500rpm)
Securely tighten double nuts to fix the prop. Also attach the spinner nut for use of a starter.

A 14 x 6 is the recommended prop for the 120 R-3 and a warning above that says to not load it for below 8,500. Your flying prop will be fine for break in. Saitos are not delicate or we wouldn't like them so much.
Old 09-23-2020, 04:01 AM
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Dave, I thought you were an advocate of running lighter prop loading during break in.

I think the 120R3 engine would have to run balls out to spin a 14x6 at 9500. I wouldn't consider a 6 pitch prop a "flying prop" for a 60 size Corsair anyway, too slow in the air, even unloaded to 10k rpm. After break in with a 13x6 (running up to 7000) I'd try a 13x8 to check peak rpm and adjust from there, going up in pitch to bring peak rpm down if necessary. Warbirds like speed.


Old 09-23-2020, 04:13 AM
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If it were a steel liner and steel piston or a ringed engine, yes I would. There is nothing in a Saito to benefit from light loading, heating and cooling or any other of the old days kind of running in.
Irvine for example recommended a 12 x 6 to break in a 40 ABC.

Saitos do best when broken in at the temperature you intend to fly it.
Old 09-23-2020, 04:29 AM
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The reason for breaking in an engine at low rpm as rich as it will run for a short time is to break in the rod, cam and tappets etc and to keep the engine flushed out with excess oil. It has nothing to do with ring break in and lighter prop loading is not a bad idea during that period. Bringing the temp up to full operating temp after that initial period is to break in the ring and using lighter prop loading is not harmful if we keep from over revving the engine.

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