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Old 10-02-2020, 01:55 AM
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I been scratching my head, that number may have been before I replaced the lower right intake pushrod, it came from the factory not in it's socket and had beat itself perfectly flat on the end. There are pictures here some where. But you're correct, your numbers are great.

I found the picture and the discussion: Page 1,643:


You can see where it notched the rocker.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-02-2020 at 02:12 AM.
Old 10-02-2020, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by acdii
SIG 4 stroke 15% Nitro, 16% Castor/Synth blend

I just thought about it, the engine will be put aside and wont be run again until hopefully spring when the plane is done, hows the best way to flush the fuel and crud out? Especially the Castor, don't want it getting gummy over the winter.
I slosh around ATF in my engines as an ARO. For winter storage I use CorrosionX. I work it in everywhere eg case, carb, piston top, rockers and drain off the excess. In the spring they're ready to fire up, no gumming.
Old 10-02-2020, 05:10 AM
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I wish CorrosionX had a local dealer I would like to checkl it out. I guess I'll stick with Marvel Mystery Oil for pneumatic tools.
Old 10-02-2020, 05:12 AM
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Well I took one of my large syringes and injected ATF through the vent while flipping the prop. Eventually it started to drip from the exhaust pipes, then I drained it into a small measuring cup to keep it off the floor and found some goo came out with it. Pulled the GP out and spun it with the starter and can see some got in all the cylinders now, so should be good to store. Now to get it all cleaned up and put away until ready to mount it (get that dirty thought out of your head).
Old 10-02-2020, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
I wish CorrosionX had a local dealer I would like to checkl it out. I guess I'll stick with Marvel Mystery Oil for pneumatic tools.
Amazon has lots of it, a 16 oz bottle will last you a year or two.
Old 10-02-2020, 05:27 AM
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I will have to think about ordering a bottle then.
Old 10-02-2020, 05:33 AM
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I drilled out the spray hole and force a piece of .125" K&S tubing into the hole and place about 14" of fuel line on it. I can pump the stuff right in, no problem.
Old 10-02-2020, 05:46 AM
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How thick is that stuff? I've use some stuff from Napa that is sprayed into cylinders through the plug hole on my engines, sprayed through the crank vent. It's not very fluid like, so stopped using it since it doesn't get into everything to clean out the old fuel.
Old 10-02-2020, 07:12 AM
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It's about like 0-20 oil, it flows well and creeps along surfaces to well beyond where you put it.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-02-2020 at 07:17 AM.
Old 10-02-2020, 07:27 AM
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I think I may add that to my next Amazon order then. Sounds much better than the Napa engine fog.
Old 10-02-2020, 08:08 AM
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https://www.practical-sailor.com/boa...n-coating-test

Many product out there, quite a few work very well . The old stand-by, ATF is readily available and has an excellent record .

Some of the most effective are not well suited for RC engines in long term storage as they are wax based and get very gummy as time goes by. "Boeshield T-9" works great for about a year. After that it gets pretty stiff .

Clearing the old fuel before storage is high on the list for things to do.

Old 10-02-2020, 08:13 AM
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CorrosionX sounds like a great product! I'm officially laid off today so I will need to wait until I get back to work to order.
Old 10-02-2020, 08:22 AM
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Dave, does the pump bottle foam the oil as it comes out? The spray can foams the oil like crazy and expands rapidly into all the nooks and crannys in the case.

Mike, sounds like your 130R3 is ready for beddie-bye.

Mike in OKC, CorrosionX is the bomb, you'll like it. One aerosol can lasts for years if all you use it for is over wintering engines. Ive heard MMO is crap but haven't heard if MM Airtool Oil has buffers in it to nuetralize the combusted nitro acids. As far as I know Dextron ll atf does have the buffers in it. Even if it doesn't have them my engines are rust free inside for years, as long as I'm religious about using it.
Old 10-02-2020, 08:32 AM
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Do you prefer the aerosol over the pump bottle and if so why?
Old 10-02-2020, 08:41 AM
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Years back someone posted about how well the aerosol CorrosionX foamed so that's all I ever bought. I ship all of my rebuilds treated with the stuff. I'm on my second can now.
Old 10-02-2020, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Years back someone posted about how well the aerosol CorrosionX foamed so that's all I ever bought. I ship all of my rebuilds treated with the stuff. I'm on my second can now.

Regarding foaming. The link above gave a test of many "corrosion protectants" . They mentioned the foam in their comments on corrosion-x.

"

CorrosionX

This aerosol, which makers claim provides protection against rust and corrosion, initially forms a foamy, blue-green film. The bubbles eventually disappear.

CorrosionXs freshwater performance was excellent: After seven days, there was no rust and the film was still tacky. (So sticky, in fact, that a few small flies met their end on the metal strip.) Unfortunately, its saltwater efficacy rated at the other end of the spectrum. After eight days, except for a band at the top, the metal strip was very rusty, and particularly corroded around screw.

Bottom Line: CorrosionX works fine in a freshwater environment, but its not ready for brine time, especially in a mixed-metal situation."

Old 10-02-2020, 09:07 AM
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Need Fluid Film or Wool Wax for saltwater protection, but you DON'T want that in your engine. I use Fluid Film under both trucks and a car and so far has halted any further rusting 100% on the truck and car, the other truck only shows rust on the frame and driveline since the entire body is aluminum, and has not shown any rust yet. Good stuff, but a pain to work with as I wind up wearing quite a bit of it when done.
Old 10-02-2020, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by acdii
Need Fluid Film or Wool Wax for saltwater protection, but you DON'T want that in your engine. I use Fluid Film under both trucks and a car and so far has halted any further rusting 100% on the truck and car, the other truck only shows rust on the frame and driveline since the entire body is aluminum, and has not shown any rust yet. Good stuff, but a pain to work with as I wind up wearing quite a bit of it when done.
That's true. Different qualities, what is highly desirable for certain application may be a death stroke in another situation. I mentioned the waxy problem, best avoided for our little toy engines.

That link I gave is a decent comparison of many corrosion "protectants".

(For those who take time to read it)

One of the high scores went to a product that also did well in saltwater .

"

LPS 3

The strongest of the LPS series, LPS 3 claims to be a long-term, heavy-duty rust inhibitor, even in the harshest environment. Its bubbly, thick spray forms a waxy, pale brown coating.

After a week of freshwater exposure, there was no sign of rust and the coating was still tacky. And even after eight days of saltwater torture, the LPS 3 panel showed no sign of rust and it was still very sticky."


And that "waxy" quality is ok, short term but gets to be a problem after a few months. I no longer use that stuff for RC toy engines but it does get a lot of use on far more valuable equipment







BTW OKC,

The pumper bottle Corrosion X is cheaper, errr, less expensive than the aerosol version in the long run.

Last edited by Jesse Open; 10-02-2020 at 11:11 AM. Reason: BTW OKC, The pumper bottle Corrosion X is cheaper, errr, less expensive than the aerosol version in the long run.
Old 10-02-2020, 11:13 AM
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I've had a CorrosionX treated piece of scrap metal out in front of my shop since spring last year. I went down to take a pic for this topic but it looks like it got loaded and hauled off with the scrap pile. Dangit, do over.

Last time I saw it was still rust free, sometime in late July/early August when we were piling scrap metal from around the farm.
Old 10-02-2020, 11:15 AM
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No surprise there. Many, if not most of the corrosion protectors provide that type of protection.

Last edited by Jesse Open; 10-02-2020 at 11:31 AM.
Old 10-02-2020, 11:38 AM
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What I like about FF is it can be sprayed onto existing rust and it soaks in and stops it from spreading. Gives me more time to get a round tuit. My F350 has a few areas on the inside of the doors and rockers that started to bubble, so I chipped away the paint and loose stuff and sprayed it last year, still there today with no further rusting. I already did the complete underside, but going to hit it again before it gets too cold, just to make sure I get it all. What surprises me is that dirt isn't freely sticking to it. Years ago we used to spray ATF to do the same thing, but it didn't last long.

Old 10-02-2020, 11:58 AM
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Those conversion coating products that convert rust to phosphates are very handy for buying time.

With our toy engines, the better job you do of expelling the waste in the case, the less you need to rely on magic. The end of day purge along with ARO flush that drives the nasty old synthetic oil, fuel and moisture away from the rust prone areas is time well spent.

.
Old 10-02-2020, 04:04 PM
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It does not foam up out of the pump bottle, I used to use the aerosol but switched to the pump. It still goes where it needs to go like any other aro.

Flushing the castor is more important than flushing the synthetic.
Old 10-02-2020, 04:43 PM
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That is plain silly.

The water absorbing synthetic oil loads up with the corrosive elements of the fuel burn, has next to ZERO corrosion inhibition. Castor oil is often applied at the mill, prior to shipping on steel sheet and bar stock as an anti-rust protectant..

If I had to choose one or the other, I would rather remove the sin-thetic. .... Especially since my oil is 12% syntheticand castor is only 2% of the fuel mix.


Check out what Klotz has to say about leaving synthetic oil in your engine. (Poly Alkyline Glycol based synthetic, the type most US RCers use)

Last edited by Jesse Open; 10-02-2020 at 05:14 PM. Reason: add "castor".... is only 2%
Old 10-02-2020, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
It does not foam up out of the pump bottle, I used to use the aerosol but switched to the pump. It still goes where it needs to go like any other aro.

Flushing the castor is more important than flushing the synthetic.
No foaming, ok thanks.

The importance of flushing castor vs. synthetic I can't argue. Synthetic is said to not absorb hydrocarbons like petroleum-based oils do, not sure about castor. Seems flushing everything out or at least displacing residuals is a safe practice. "Dammit Jim, I'm a Doctor not a Chemical Engineer"

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