Welcome to Club SAITO !
10-09-2020, 12:08 PM
Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Corrosive gasses! Lmao!
The source of my radio problems was a binding retract, made things act like a drained battery. A plastic ball link was used on one end of the control rod from the servo to the trunnion, it was folding over and binding everything.
I've taken out all the servos in the plane along with the retracts, loose screws everywhere!!!
The source of my radio problems was a binding retract, made things act like a drained battery. A plastic ball link was used on one end of the control rod from the servo to the trunnion, it was folding over and binding everything.
I've taken out all the servos in the plane along with the retracts, loose screws everywhere!!!
Yep, kinda figured that out. Big voltage drop when gear deployed.
Those guys must smell bad too. I see they sit way apart!
10-09-2020, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Dave, my Xoar 15x7 was drilled out for an OS 120 twin so I can't test the 115 with it. Sorry
Just grab a box of these fro Amazon and sleeve it up quickly and precisely.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 10-09-2020 at 12:56 PM.
10-09-2020, 02:27 PM
They used to sell that assortment at the LHS a few years back. Lots of handy bits in there. I bought a baggie and it lasted for years!
The Ace Hardware in the corner can special order still as they handle KS tubing.
The Ace Hardware in the corner can special order still as they handle KS tubing.
10-09-2020, 03:23 PM
The assortment on Amazon only has sizes up to 7mm.
My solution is simple and free ie not testing the 115 with the Xoar 15x7.
Dave, my 115 peaked an APC 15x8 at 8680 this morning.
My solution is simple and free ie not testing the 115 with the Xoar 15x7.
Dave, my 115 peaked an APC 15x8 at 8680 this morning.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 10-09-2020 at 03:26 PM.
10-09-2020, 03:39 PM
You can make perfectly sized bushings on a lathe, even the in between.
IIRC, APC instructions suggest a close fitting bush in the rear counterbore and actual clearance at the prop front bore. That system works very well on their props.
IIRC, APC instructions suggest a close fitting bush in the rear counterbore and actual clearance at the prop front bore. That system works very well on their props.
10-09-2020, 03:55 PM
Originally Posted by Jesse Open
You can make perfectly sized bushings on a lathe, even the in between.
IIRC, APC instructions suggest a close fitting bush in the rear counterbore and actual clearance at the prop front bore. That system works very well on their props.
IIRC, APC instructions suggest a close fitting bush in the rear counterbore and actual clearance at the prop front bore. That system works very well on their props.
10-09-2020, 04:22 PM
Point being the tubing is not ideal for APC as they are set up for thick wall. Rather than rely on APC plastic I made several sets of brass bushings for every possible combo.
It was about the APC prop fitting methodology...PERIOD.
It was about the APC prop fitting methodology...PERIOD.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 10-09-2020 at 09:30 PM.
10-09-2020, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by acdii
Getting the material to make your own is the problem. There is no place around here where I can buy Methanol. I don't use enough to order 5 gallons for the exorbitant costs they charge either. If I could have, I would have.
order from Red Max, you can order 10%, 15% 20% Nitro with no oil and buy the oil you want
Jim
you know what, a Saito engine
10-09-2020, 09:06 PM
Originally Posted by acdii
Getting the material to make your own is the problem. There is no place around here where I can buy Methanol. I don't use enough to order 5 gallons for the exorbitant costs they charge either. If I could have, I would have.
Yep,
My comment wasn't about ease, just about nice to have the option. I like knowing, not guessing and hoping.Hard to trust a fuel seller who won't tell what oil they chose to put through your engine! You know they do shop price.
Surely not going to pass up what is easy here .. The last 5 gallon can of Methanol was $35. Buying two more 5 gallon buckets tomorrow. Be interesting to see if the CCP virus weapon has affected the price. I can get a 50 gallon barrel of methanol, delivered for $3 gallon, current price but don't need that much right now..
All in all, the fuel price is not all that big a deal.Only costs a few dollars more to go first class
10-10-2020, 03:30 AM
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The package they offer now is not the same as the one I got a couple of years ago, it has some 12 mm sleeves and in between.
Gary, I ordered some more stainless steel screws for the GK 100. I thought long and hard about our discussion a few months ago about corrosion. Since alloy steel is a different metal than the aluminum block, how can stainless steel be a bad material? Curiosity got the best of me. Thanks
I got them from McMaster-Carr since Micro-Fasteners does not have the 3.5 mm for the cylinder base. They sure look nice.
Gary, I ordered some more stainless steel screws for the GK 100. I thought long and hard about our discussion a few months ago about corrosion. Since alloy steel is a different metal than the aluminum block, how can stainless steel be a bad material? Curiosity got the best of me. Thanks
I got them from McMaster-Carr since Micro-Fasteners does not have the 3.5 mm for the cylinder base. They sure look nice.
10-10-2020, 04:22 AM
Dave, good luck using stainless steel fasteners in aluminum threading. Using some form of anti-seize compound would be a good measure toward preventing galling, slowly torquing each faster an eighth turn at a time helps as well. The goal is to reduce the amount of heat generated by the abrading oxides which are present on the threads of the bolts and the threaded holes. Generate a little too much heat while tightening or loosening and the threads will gall (cold weld). Most stainless fasteners are very susceptible to galling as they are much softer than standard steel fasteners.
Just to be clear, the culprit is primarily the aluminum. The oxide that forms on aluminum (alumina) is crystalline in structure and extremely tough and abrasive. You are essentially torquing your bolts into a sandpaper hole!
Just to be clear, the culprit is primarily the aluminum. The oxide that forms on aluminum (alumina) is crystalline in structure and extremely tough and abrasive. You are essentially torquing your bolts into a sandpaper hole!
Last edited by Glowgeek; 10-10-2020 at 04:31 AM.
10-10-2020, 05:01 AM
Yep on the anti-seize. Not a simple matter of differences, it is the type of differences. They don't seize every time but they are prone. When they do, the threads are history .
Not my opinion, a well recognized fact.
Seen it happen often, you start to remove a stainless or high nickel screw and you feel a bit of resistance build. Add oil, turn the other way, no matter what you do it just gets stiffer until it totally locks, If you succeed in getting the screw out, there is aluminum remains welded to the stainless .A very strong, distinct smell goes with it .
Those stainless screw kits for motorcycles are notorious . The hapless mechanics blame cross threading or think it was Loctite. Doesn't happen every time but it most certainly happens.
Anti-Seize is a good practice with stainless to stainless connections as well.
Also consider that stainless screws are generally weaker than carbon steel, that includes the internal hex.
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...d-galling.aspx
Not my opinion, a well recognized fact.
Seen it happen often, you start to remove a stainless or high nickel screw and you feel a bit of resistance build. Add oil, turn the other way, no matter what you do it just gets stiffer until it totally locks, If you succeed in getting the screw out, there is aluminum remains welded to the stainless .A very strong, distinct smell goes with it .
Those stainless screw kits for motorcycles are notorious . The hapless mechanics blame cross threading or think it was Loctite. Doesn't happen every time but it most certainly happens.
Anti-Seize is a good practice with stainless to stainless connections as well.
Also consider that stainless screws are generally weaker than carbon steel, that includes the internal hex.
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...d-galling.aspx
Last edited by Jesse Open; 10-10-2020 at 05:16 AM.
10-10-2020, 06:35 AM
Hi,
know this is glow section,
Just could not find FG-40 specific thread ( there are fg20,fg21,fg30,fg60,fg90...
)
New from shop, broken in on stand, all ok,
backfired few times, bit my finger once, pretty nasty habbit(comparing to all my other engines that dont do that)
Since than is pretty hard to flip start it, mounted in plane and trying to fine tune it for maiden.
Could it really be that it was all it took to rotate hub on shaft and mess with magnet posotion hence messimg timing up?
know this is glow section,
Just could not find FG-40 specific thread ( there are fg20,fg21,fg30,fg60,fg90...
)New from shop, broken in on stand, all ok,
backfired few times, bit my finger once, pretty nasty habbit(comparing to all my other engines that dont do that)
Since than is pretty hard to flip start it, mounted in plane and trying to fine tune it for maiden.
Could it really be that it was all it took to rotate hub on shaft and mess with magnet posotion hence messimg timing up?
Last edited by dr.tom; 10-10-2020 at 06:38 AM.
10-10-2020, 06:41 AM
Originally Posted by dr.tom
Hi,
know this is glow section,
Just could not find FG-40 specific thread ( there are fg20,fg21,fg30,fg60,fg90...)
New from shop, broken in on stand, all ok,
backfired few times, bit my finger once, pretty nasty habbit(comparing to all my other engines that dont do that)
Since than is pretty hard to flip start it, mounted in plane and trying to fine tune it for maiden.
Could it really be that it was all it took to rotate hub on shaft and mess with magnet posotion hence messimg timing up?
know this is glow section,
Just could not find FG-40 specific thread ( there are fg20,fg21,fg30,fg60,fg90...
)New from shop, broken in on stand, all ok,
backfired few times, bit my finger once, pretty nasty habbit(comparing to all my other engines that dont do that)
Since than is pretty hard to flip start it, mounted in plane and trying to fine tune it for maiden.
Could it really be that it was all it took to rotate hub on shaft and mess with magnet posotion hence messimg timing up?
10-10-2020, 07:23 AM
Looks like Horizon is doing a bin cleaning of many Saito spares . I get a kick out of seeing the manufacturer using mis-nomenclature on their own parts.
The big one for Saito is calling intake and exhaust pipes "manifolds"
Seems like everybody has picked up on that and now every intake or exhaust tube or pipe is a "manifold".
The big one for Saito is calling intake and exhaust pipes "manifolds"
Seems like everybody has picked up on that and now every intake or exhaust tube or pipe is a "manifold".
10-10-2020, 09:02 AM
Originally Posted by dr.tom
Hope hub will slide from shaft easily :/
Remove and check the screw pin first. If the unthreaded tip is still intact the drive flange did not slip.
10-10-2020, 10:22 PM
That's a very nice prop drive puller dave.
Now, a serious post regarding plastic apc and mas props. I qualify myself by stating that for the last 30yrs i have been welding plastic fitted to cars ( bumper bars and radiator tanks etc ) and motorcycle fairings ( accident repairs ) and also did a lot of large dia plastic ( here called black brute/polyethylene irrigation pipe ) pipe welding by machine. I'm still a government licenced and ticketed welder which qualifies me to weld any plastic used on large commercial projects. Now, back to apc and mas props, be careful bushing apc props, after testing a damaged one it appears to be made of mixed and recycled plastic which can be a little brittle as anyone who has had a prop strike with an apc knows. Did you notice when when the prop tips shatter you sometimes get fine cracks extending from the tip towards the prop hub? Not so with black mas props. On several occasions i've ground more than half an inch off the tips and still got airborne, why i like them for test flights.
ps mas props seem to be made of what we call "black brute" here, it seems to be made of a very tough polyethylene/propylene mix.
Now, a serious post regarding plastic apc and mas props. I qualify myself by stating that for the last 30yrs i have been welding plastic fitted to cars ( bumper bars and radiator tanks etc ) and motorcycle fairings ( accident repairs ) and also did a lot of large dia plastic ( here called black brute/polyethylene irrigation pipe ) pipe welding by machine. I'm still a government licenced and ticketed welder which qualifies me to weld any plastic used on large commercial projects. Now, back to apc and mas props, be careful bushing apc props, after testing a damaged one it appears to be made of mixed and recycled plastic which can be a little brittle as anyone who has had a prop strike with an apc knows. Did you notice when when the prop tips shatter you sometimes get fine cracks extending from the tip towards the prop hub? Not so with black mas props. On several occasions i've ground more than half an inch off the tips and still got airborne, why i like them for test flights.
ps mas props seem to be made of what we call "black brute" here, it seems to be made of a very tough polyethylene/propylene mix.
10-11-2020, 02:41 AM
Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Not likely, the drive flange and collet are a press fit and require a two jaw puller to remove.
Remove and check the screw pin first. If the unthreaded tip is still intact the drive flange did not slip.
Remove and check the screw pin first. If the unthreaded tip is still intact the drive flange did not slip.
Finding TDC with screwdriver through plug hole showed my magnet hits sensor at around 44° BTDC.
But spark comes only when magnet leaves the sensor completely at around 27° BTDC.
Maybe it is set like that for easier start and gets advanced wirh rpm...(stock new small saito CDI, xcel made sticker)
Can the magnet be reversed polarity, would it matter at all?
