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Welcome to Club SAITO !

Old 10-11-2006, 04:32 PM
  #4851  
Hobbsy
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Doug, all I have right now is WildCat Premium Extra 10% and 15% and about 5 gallons of PowerMaster 15%, all contains 18% 80/20 syn/castor blend. WildCat Premium is 16% 80/20 blend.
Old 10-11-2006, 06:47 PM
  #4852  
Bill Martovich
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I have two A Fa100 and a 180 The 180 is apart See Saito cam timming.
Bill
Old 10-11-2006, 08:31 PM
  #4853  
stallwart
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ORIGINAL: rajul

That's a good break-in program Hobbsy. I use something similar.

Lucky for me, a friend gave me similar advice about a break in program. My first Saito soon turned into a predictable powerhouse of an engine. I'm building a test stand to break in my next and the rest.............
Old 10-11-2006, 09:49 PM
  #4854  
blw
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Hobbsy- I break mine in like you do except that I run a short WOT burst every few minutes after about 15-20 minutes of running. I try to put an hour on them with longer WOT runs towards the end.

Jim- I'm ordering the jumbo engine stand from American Hobby Products for the 1.25.
Old 10-11-2006, 09:56 PM
  #4855  
rajul
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ORIGINAL: blw
Jim- I'm ordering the jumbo engine stand from American Hobby Products for the 1.25.
Blw, can you post the link here? Thx
Old 10-11-2006, 10:10 PM
  #4856  
w8ye
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My jumbo has had a Saito 150 down to a OS 46FX mounted on it. Worked fine for all.

American Hobby Products

Gilbert S. Greenburg Jr.
12 W. Hill Circle
Reading, Ma 01867
781 944 8316
$39.95 plus shipping

He doesn't have a web site. He has a computer because he's been on here before.
Old 10-11-2006, 10:28 PM
  #4857  
rajul
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Jim, can you post some pics of this stand please?
Old 10-11-2006, 10:32 PM
  #4858  
w8ye
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Here's a picture of the "Mighty".

The big picture is my Jumbo with a Saito 150 on it.
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Old 10-11-2006, 10:38 PM
  #4859  
w8ye
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JUMBO Deluxe (Engines .60-2.0 ci ) $39.95
Base: Massive 7-7/8" x 11-7/8" x 3/4" thick multi-ply birch for greater rigidity, strength, longevity, and versitility in mounting options including portability.
Mounting Blocks: Huge 2" x 1-9/16" x 3-1/8" solid maple with 1/8" dia. steel pins, supports full length of engine lugs. One block fixed, one adjustable simplifies engine installation; with sockets for "auto-open" spreader spring.
Clamp Plates: 3/8" thick x 2" x 3-1/8" solid maple will not mar or stress engine lugs. "Auto-Open" spreader compression springs provided.
Barrier Strip: Edge mounted, solid maple safety and alignment strip with relief for large engine crankcases.
Hardware: Quality, 5/16" carriage bolts, springs, washers, and wing nuts.
Fuel Tank: Sullivan 10-oz. Slant oval style with fittings and fuel tubing.
Tank Mount Assembly: Height adjustable. Birch ply plate supporting tank has threaded steel insert and locking thumb screw. Rides on 3/8" dia. birch dowel posts. With nylon tank strap.
"T-Toggle Throttle Assembly": Birch/maple with hardware.
Push rod/Clevis: Du-Bro threaded push rod and clevis.
Old 10-11-2006, 10:56 PM
  #4860  
stallwart
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This is the J-Tec TS-2 mount I'm going to use. It is for 60 size up to about 2.5. Since I sell pre-engineered steel buildings, I leaned towards a metal mount----not knowng any better.
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Old 10-12-2006, 12:00 AM
  #4861  
Kmot
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Forgot to mention:

Saito .45, MA 11x8 wood prop, Powermaster 15% nitro fuel with 18% castor/syn oil blend. Switching to an OS "F" plug I gained 500 rpm.

Edited to correct prop size.
Old 10-12-2006, 12:36 AM
  #4862  
rajul
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Jim, sure looks better than the one from PSP. Can you take a pic from the right side of the stand? Need to see the throttle setup. What's the price of the Mighty?
Old 10-12-2006, 01:54 AM
  #4863  
JettPilot
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ORIGINAL: w8ye


JUMBO Deluxe (Engines .60-2.0 ci ) $39.95
I have to go with William Robinson on this one. Breaking in an engine on anything other than the airplane is just a waste of time and fuel. All my engines are run for the first time in the plane and are in the air withing minutes of being first started. Even if my Saitos first run is so rich that its only running at 4000 RPM, its getting more cooling air flying than it would on a bench stand

JettPilot
Old 10-12-2006, 04:56 AM
  #4864  
w8ye
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The Mighty costs $74.50
Old 10-12-2006, 09:26 PM
  #4865  
blw
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Shipping on the Jumbo is $7.00. It is hard to see how he makes any money for the price. It comes with everything you need except the engine. The workmanship is excellent, as is the maple.

JettPilot- I don't want my airframes shaking that much, especially on the first tank of fuel. I'd rather let the engine stand take the punishment. Don't see how it is a waste of time. A Saito is supposed to run 10 minutes below 4000 RPM. Where's the waste? Don't understand the waste of fuel notion either.
Old 10-12-2006, 10:50 PM
  #4866  
stallwart
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After running in my first Saito on a plane, I decided a stand would be easier and much more convenient. It freaked me out when the engine tried to run in reverse on the third start and the plane bolted backwards. Maybe a test stand for the plane is an idea?

I have seen guys in my club bring an unstarted, brand new engine (Saito and others) to the field and fly within a few minutes of the first crank. Deadsticks abound!

Some, like me, need a few years more experience to get "box to box pattern" success with a new engine.
Old 10-12-2006, 11:36 PM
  #4867  
rustypep
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Anybody know where I can get the specs on the old 270T twin? Particularly the weight?
Old 10-13-2006, 05:38 AM
  #4868  
NM2K
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ORIGINAL: stallwart

This is the J-Tec TS-2 mount I'm going to use. It is for 60 size up to about 2.5. Since I sell pre-engineered steel buildings, I leaned towards a metal mount----not knowng any better.

-----------------


This is the one that I use too. I like the durability and no fuel soaking worry aspect of this mount.
Old 10-13-2006, 05:51 AM
  #4869  
NM2K
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

ORIGINAL: JettPilot


ORIGINAL: w8ye


JUMBO Deluxe (Engines .60-2.0 ci ) $39.95
I have to go with William Robinson on this one. Breaking in an engine on anything other than the airplane is just a waste of time and fuel. All my engines are run for the first time in the plane and are in the air withing minutes of being first started. Even if my Saitos first run is so rich that its only running at 4000 RPM, its getting more cooling air flying than it would on a bench stand

JettPilot

----------------


Some folks have the patience to do things right and some folks don't. <G> (this should have been here the first time I posted this article)

I used to get a kick out of the guys at the field trying to break-in an engine on the model. Most of them did it right down on the ground, sucking dirt and debris through the engine, and then cursing later on at the engine's short life.

If the engine runs well enough to be reliable, then it doesn't need an extended break-in anyway, so there is no harm done by flying it right away. Just don't try this with a K&B Sportster or several other engines I've ran across over the years. Then you'll be crying about how the engine crashed your plane. I have no mercy on folks like that.

They can't seem to get the idea through their noggin' that if the engine wasn't running correctly, then THEY were responsible for it crashing their model.
Old 10-15-2006, 12:48 AM
  #4870  
JettPilot
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ORIGINAL: Artisan


Some folks have the patience to do things right and some folks don't.


They can't seem to get the idea through their noggin' that if the engine wasn't running correctly, then THEY were responsible for it crashing their model.
And some of us have the skill to do it properly in the model. For you to imply that just because it was not done on the bench that its "not done right" is pure BS. Reliable enough to fly, when beaking in an engine I expect it to quit anytime, deadstick is a NON ISSUE for me, again I have the skill to land with or without power from any point in my break in flights.

You seem to have a problem understanding that just because you dont have the skill to deal with these issues does not mean that others dont. From your post, I can see that you are probably unable to contemplate doing anything that is a little more challenging, so maybe you should stick to breaking in on test stands only [sm=lol.gif]

JettPilot
Old 10-15-2006, 02:06 AM
  #4871  
proptop
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I think Artisan was saying the same thing as I'm gonna try to...

If the engine gives you good signals while doing a test run on the stand, then it should be reliable enough to put on the plane without extended test stand running...(something like that, Ed?)

Most engines, I will run maybe 1, or 2 at most, tanks through just to get a general idea of where the carb is set, and to see if there are any obvious problems with it.
I will set the needles close to where I feel they need to be...a "baseline" setting...and, sometimes I just want to hear what it's gonna sound like![8D]

A time or two, I have gone thru the trouble of installing a new, un-tested engine on an airplane, and then having difficulties with it out at the field, and had to take it back off the airplane, etc. etc...pain in the neck...
(one was a front bearing that was pissing fuel out so badly, I had to send the engine back...actually, it was a defect in the case, but I digress )

I don't believe in extended test stand running either...
IMO it's a boring, obnoxious (the noise ) waste of fuel...and it gets the neighbors p.o.'d at ya too...
Old 10-15-2006, 06:43 AM
  #4872  
JPal101
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I am a relatively new member here and been reading your comments for sometime. While the mechanics of this engine is important you guys just seem to be interested in knowing what spring came with which engine and which engine has what markings. I have not read many comments on how a particular engine actually flies. When I was a kid I used to take an engine and mount it to a box and run it and run it but never flew it. You guys remind me of then. Fly and lets hear how a particular engine performs in the air and lets maybe learn about some problems and how to solve them in actual flight. Saito has a breakin procedure use it and then go enjoy.
Old 10-15-2006, 07:08 AM
  #4873  
Hobbsy
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40 minutes to have a stone reliable engine, that's a trade off that's worth a million times the little bit of effort and time it takes.

It's kinda hard to describe flying beyond saying, "I went to the field and flew my Cherokee 40 and it flew great" or I flew my RCM 40 with a Saito .56 and a ProZinger 12x7, it will fly nearly 30 minutes on the 11 oz tank.
Old 10-15-2006, 07:26 AM
  #4874  
N1EDM
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Hobbsy,

To add my $.02 to what you are saying, I remember reading one of Clarence Lee's "Engine Clinic" columns in RCM once. He mentioned that his normal method of break in was to run it on the bench first, to do the initial break-in, and get the adjustments right. Then he 'finished' breaking the engine in the air, feeling that the cycling of the throttle and the work the engine was doing, pulling a plane through the air, would finish it up.

Of course, this meant that he didn't run the engine on the ground for extended periods - he just got it into the air and flew it.

Bob
Old 10-15-2006, 07:41 AM
  #4875  
NM2K
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ORIGINAL: JettPilot


ORIGINAL: Artisan


Some folks have the patience to do things right and some folks don't.


They can't seem to get the idea through their noggin' that if the engine wasn't running correctly, then THEY were responsible for it crashing their model.
And some of us have the skill to do it properly in the model. For you to imply that just because it was not done on the bench that its "not done right" is pure BS. Reliable enough to fly, when beaking in an engine I expect it to quit anytime, deadstick is a NON ISSUE for me, again I have the skill to land with or without power from any point in my break in flights.

You seem to have a problem understanding that just because you dont have the skill to deal with these issues does not mean that others dont. From your post, I can see that you are probably unable to contemplate doing anything that is a little more challenging, so maybe you should stick to breaking in on test stands only [sm=lol.gif]

JettPilot

-----------------


There you go, taking things personally again. Sometimes I do too, so I'm not deriding you one bit.

When I write on the forum it is for all eyes to see. If I want to make something really personal, I will private mail or email you.

I was kidding you a bit, and I had hoped you would go along with it some. I don't have anything personal against you or anyone on the forum. As far as I'm concerned, we are all friends.

I will try to refrain from teasing folks as much as I do. It is difficult enough to make oneself understood in print when dealing only with folks from our own community. I am amazed that we all get along as well as we do considering the global breadth of the forum's members. Believe me, there was not one serious shot at you in my post.

We have different philosophies, each of us. In one country fuel might not be a serious expense as when compared to living elsewhere. In another just a bit of nitromethane can be quite expensive.

Burning fuel is no big thing to me. In fact, I even bench run engines just for fun, so you can understand how your and my points of view may differ from just that statement.

If you don't want to bench run your engines in, I don't really care. I think you are missing a lot of fun, but I realize that not everyone sees it this way.

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