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Old 12-17-2020, 06:32 AM
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Yep, I fly about as much as anybody. My planes stored in the house too. Gasopline doesn't get past the door.None of our yard equipment is gaspoline fueled. 100% is battery powered.
To each his own, I consider fuel as but a small part of my hobby budget.
Old 12-17-2020, 07:00 AM
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I have mine set up in such a way as to not have any aroma of fuel fumes when stored. I had my 4*120 with the DEL20 sitting just around the side of my desk here for weeks, never smelled fuel. I never leave fuel in the tank on any plane, and always cap the lines, glow and gas are treated the same.
Old 12-17-2020, 08:49 AM
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I hear the same thing from local flying friends. They say their planes dont stink. When visiting, I can smell the stuff as soon as I step inside their door. Likewise their cars.

Gasoline always stinks.

Sorry,
Old 12-17-2020, 09:12 AM
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Castor Oil has a smell all of it's own too but I haven't really notice an odor from synthetic oil.
Old 12-17-2020, 01:04 PM
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100LL Aviation fuel stinks less than the rot gut crappy pump gas sold these days. I store my gassers with throttle completely closed and fuel tanks full to keep the Tygon fuel lines and carb diaphrams limber. Planes are stored in my shop which wreaks of all kinds of chemicals anyway. The Tahoe I transport planes in doesn't smell of any type of fuel, at least no one has mentioned it.
Old 12-17-2020, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Yep, moving over to elcheapo smelly gas for planes I fly a lot and anything requiring an engine larger than 18cc. With price increases I spent way too much on glow fuel this year. I'll keep a few smaller glow engines around though. Will be selling a few more glow engines here very shortly.

come on Lonnie, don't give up on us methanol heads. get more power with methanol

Jim

Last edited by the Wasp; 12-17-2020 at 06:35 PM.
Old 12-18-2020, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Pete, I'm no stranger to being peppered by rock salt. When I was a kid old lady "Arkie" would shoot at us when she caught us cutting through her property on the way to our favorite fishing hole. "Hey you boys!, BOOM!, get off my property!" is how she handled us.
Funny as lonnie, but i'm with jim on this, i wonder if we could get old lady " Arkie " to pop round to your place and unload a whole box full 12ga rock salt into your rear end i'm kidding but it raises a good question. With our fg saito engines what grade gasoline is good? during the run in period for my fg57t i did some research on octane levels, now memory can be a fickle thing when you so old that you need a chainsaw to trim your toenails but i read that 91 to 95 octane is good, anything more than that is wasted unless the compression ratio is raised to take advantage of 100 octane so that it gets burnt properly.

ps i hope old lady arkie comes round and gives you a real good dust up
Old 12-18-2020, 03:44 AM
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When I broke in my FG 11 I used 90 octane, ethanol free, all my lawn equipment is gasoline powered and I use the ethanol free in all of it. This being an agricultural County it's every where.




The FG 11/66 turning a Graupner, G-Sonic 13 x 7, the idle is 2,140.

Last edited by Hobbsy; 12-18-2020 at 03:49 AM. Reason: Add picture
Old 12-18-2020, 05:51 AM
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Pete, 91 to 93 octane ethanol free is fine to run in any gasser. You're correct about 100 octane gas offering no power advantage over 91 octane fuel. Thing is, I get my 100LL Av gas for free and it will stay fresh for decades. No need to drain my tanks over winter, just leave them full and the engines fire right up in the spring.

Dave, that .66 FG11 is a real snort'n dragon!

Not to worry Jim, I'll always have glow engines flying smaller planes.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 12-18-2020 at 05:57 AM.
Old 12-18-2020, 06:20 AM
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I have noticed on the Honda lawn equipment the manuals specify no alcohol. I only use pure gas for my lawn equipment regardless of brand.
Old 12-18-2020, 06:37 AM
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Since the FG do not have electronic sensors for advancing and retarding timing, like cars do, best to run the premium fuel through it so that it runs in it's set ignition range. Premium also has a longer shelf life, so it stores longer. I have hours and hours of flights on my FG11, but only ran a gallon through it so far. Hard to use up gas when it runs nearly a full hour on 12 ounces.
Old 12-18-2020, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
I have noticed on the Honda lawn equipment the manuals specify no alcohol. I only use pure gas for my lawn equipment regardless of brand.

Good practice.
Here in the suburbs, many stations sell non ethanol gaspoline.The lawn equipment joint on the corner and Ace Hdwe stock the alkylate fuels . The problem with ethanol is the additives they blend with it are always changing. The manufacturers are having a hard time keeping the plastics and rubber type parts compatible.

Dont miss the stale gas yard gear here in the least! 14 inch snow, no problem. Flip the switch and a battery gets the snow blower going. Used to hate walking behind that smokey pos gaspoline clunker for an hour. Not to mention cleaning messy carbs etc. Yep, in time they all need that.

In the earlier, gasoline power days. I always used Coleman Fuel is gaspers with excellent resilts. Near zero carbon, very clean burning. S-40 Super Tigres to 4.7 cubic inch Homelites. Same fuel.
History now.

Methanol is still cheap and readily available.
Old 12-18-2020, 07:15 PM
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hey guys, my daughter asked my granddaughter (4y.o.) 2 questions, here they are with answers. she asked more questions but these 2 are great.

Q; what would you do if you won a million $$$
A; I would buy McDonalds, the hole company too.

after a few more questions my daughter ask

Q), if you could be anything what would you be,
A), a Big Mack with Cheese.

to bad she didn't say "A Saito 180 twin" LOL I could then put her in my 74" span Edge 540

Jim

Last edited by the Wasp; 12-18-2020 at 07:18 PM.
Old 12-18-2020, 09:11 PM
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Cute story. Bet there are times when mom wishes you could!
Old 12-19-2020, 05:23 PM
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Crickets chirping......

My new FG14 is running pretty sweet already, only 16oz of fuel so far. That's about an hour of running rich for 15 minutes and slightly rich thereafter. I love how glassy smooth the Saito gassers run at all rpm. I'll check the timing and clean the plug tomorrow to get some numbers. It'll probably get mounted on my WM 46 size P51 to replace the ancient heavy OS fs70s.
Old 12-19-2020, 08:26 PM
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Latest update on the Pink N Poke the rudder has been recovered, tail wheel bracket has been remade (It was missing from the kit when I got it and my first try was tracking right.), rudder, elevator, and both ailerons have been hinged, and the aileron servos installed. Cockpit coaming has been installed. Next up pushrods need to be installed. Engine remounted and the tank reinstalled. Then I can install the wheel struts, graphics, and balance. I hope to have it ready to fly for New Years or shortly there after.

Old 12-20-2020, 02:38 AM
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Looking good.
Old 12-20-2020, 03:30 AM
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Mike, the P&P is really starting to take shape.
Old 12-20-2020, 05:46 AM
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Default What parts do I need? Is this a high compression 150S

Hi gents,

I was given a 150S by a friend of mine. The engine seems to have run pretty much and has not much compression. It seems this is one of the early 150 s engines but I can't be sure. There are no marks on the mounting lugs.

I'm planning to strip the engine down to check the cylinder & piston ring etc.

a question: how can I determine wether this is one of the early high compression engines? And if yes, how can I order right parts? I checked Horizon Hobby and I just found parts for the new low compression versions but nothing for the old high compression ones?

I I hope to maintain the engine as original as possible and I'm ordering a C& H ignition kit and run this on glow fuel / CDI








Last edited by AeroFinn; 12-20-2020 at 05:56 AM.
Old 12-20-2020, 06:26 AM
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Hi Aerofinn, welcome to the thread.

The only difference in parts between low/high compression saitos is the piston. If your piston has a raised dome on top that looks like half a loaf of bread then it's a high compression piston.

The early high compression 150 had no markings on the lug or an "A" I think, however a saito replacement crankcase also has no markings.

Compression loss is most commonly caused by a stuck ring, stuck valves or stuck tappets. In your case the dent in the pushrod tube could be causing the pushrod to hang up.

Good luck with your overhaul and stay in touch. We love pictures!

Lonnie

Last edited by Glowgeek; 12-20-2020 at 06:29 AM.
Old 12-20-2020, 08:31 AM
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I scan past the RC Universe site on a daily basis. Hardly any action here. Strangely, the Club Saito thread title always shows something unread....

??? So I opened this one today only to find a stream of posts I never knew existed.

I presently run a Saito 90TS on a float equipped Cub. Previously owned a Saito 60 twin that turned out to have a broken camshaft. And will comment that the 60 twin came with a beautiful set of chromed formed exhausts whereas the 90TS came with those hideous flex pipes that made the engine look like a walrus.

Replaced the flex pipes with a Keleo Creations exhaust that is lovely but sadly no longer being made.
Old 12-20-2020, 09:05 AM
  #49222  
 
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Jim,

The broken cam issue with the small Saito boxer twins is a too common failure. We had three of them turn up when I worked at the LHS. Lucky back then it was an easy repair. Easier than explaining the twin cam differences to some folks


Finn ,

Sometimes simply running the engine restores a soft engine to monstous compression.
It frees sticky rings and stems and clears valve seats and faces.

Last edited by Jesse Open; 12-20-2020 at 09:17 AM.
Old 12-20-2020, 10:48 AM
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I was actually quite proud of the fact that I was able to disassemble the engine and get it back together properly. And I had no idea that this was a common problem. The engine actually ran with the cam broken at one end but it was impossible to adjust the valve lash.
Old 12-20-2020, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
...................snip.......
..........Finn ,

Sometimes simply running the engine restores a soft engine to monstous compression.
It frees sticky rings and stems and clears valve seats and faces.
There's something I never do anymore ie run gummed engines. Good way to bevel the sides of tappets and buff off one side of the ring. Seen it happen many times. Just anicdotal, I know.

With 4 strokes if they're gummed at all they get disassembled and thoroughly cleaned, concentrating especially on getting the ring, ring groove, tappets and their bores, valve seats, valves and their guides spotless clean before restarting. Some may see this as overkill but it can save time, money and frustration.
Old 12-20-2020, 11:30 AM
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I just soak them in denatured alcohol until they are turning freely. Usually, especially castor run, the oil gums up and has everything sticking. Have done that with 3 used engines I got, and now they all work perfectly. The worst was the Gemini 120II. That one was so gummed up all the valves were stuck open. I used a lot of DA with a plastic scrub brush to get the gunk out of it, now it runs smooth as silk. I only crack the engine if I feel anything but smooth bearings. I never run them until the engine spins smoothly and has decent compression with the GP. I spin them without the GP in that way I can feel for any notchiness at the compression side and past TDC where they would be hidden by the compression and release. Once it spins freely I then shoot it with an oil, either MM, or 3n1 to protect the steel until I am ready to run it up, then use trans fluid as a ARO.

I hate USPS. What the hell were they thinking to send a package from Champaign IL destined to just outside Rockford, down the St Louis MO? It shipped on the 11th, and had not been seen since. It is the tank and switch mounts for my Corsair, been waiting on them so I can finish the install! I have to wait until the 22nd before I can either cancel or reship it.

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