acdii

Yep, and scan in 29" wide and scale them up 125% and print out 36.25". Thats what the 1/10th scale B-17 plans are and need to scale up to 1/8th scale with.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I have only had one set of plans I couldn't get printed. I had to go to architectural printer to get my Brian Taylor Spitfire MK1a plans duplicated, they wereover 44". I had them do a TF P-51D at the same time.

Glowgeek

Well, I didn't know you were into warbirds Mike. Good to know.

acdii

Decision has been made, had to discuss with the ol lady first, she approved. She saw the benefit of it too. I called the Office Depot to find out about the cost of scanning my plans. $4 a square foot. Just one sheet of the B-17 plans would be $80. I figure send me a prepaid return tube with the plans and i will scan them for $.50 a foot, not square foot, but foot and send back the plans and email or drop box the digital copy. I have to see how far ink stretches, but thinking to print from file, $3 a foot, and scan to print $3.50 a foot. The printer ink is only $40 a refill, but there are 6 colors. I have a dozen plans to import, and a few to print out, and a couple to enlarge, so it will get a lot of use right from the start, once I get it in my shop that is, it weighs 226 pounds. I my need to do the same as I did with the laser and take it apart.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Well let us know when you get started, maybe you could drop an ad into the classified ads on this and a couple of boards?

acdii

Thats actually one of the first things i considered to make it a viable purchase. Between this and the short kits I have already proofed, I should be able to at least pay for the upkeep.

1200SportsterRider

Thanks Gary, so far I can't wrap my mind around an inverted twin, I think my 150 or 180 may end up on there. Though, maybe with two Turbo Headers facing rearward on top would look really cool.

Jesse Open

Me too, at first. But I did set that aside and the more I thought about it, the better it looked

Glowgeek

Gary, UPS tracking shows delivery of the FA125 to you on Monday at 2:10. I hope it arrived undamaged.

Jesse Open

Yes, it arrived

Havent had time to take it apart yet.

Glowgeek

Let me know what you find, I pride myself in only shipping engines that are ready to run, unless otherwise stated of course.

Jesse Open

No biggy

I sell them both as "ready to run" or otherwise "as-is" The ready to run are engines that I have run and know to be good running engines. The as-is are usually engines that came to me used or in parts, and described that way, may or may not need parts etc as determined by the buyer. Eiher way, every single engine goes with a full, shipping both ways money back warranty

As a buyer, I actually prefer to get them before somebody else replaced parts.

acdii

I have both pipes brazed together now, and at the point of, do I cut, or don't I cut the cowl.






I may get a coil of 1/4" and give it another try, these are a bit too large for the appearance, but only for the outlets since 1/4" will slip right into the 3/8.

Glowgeek

Wow Todd, those pipes look killer!

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Yeah, those pipes are impressive!

acdii

Thanks, still not 100% satisfied, they are too large for my liking and not sure how well they will hold up since the tubing the nut is on is very thin and a bit twisted, prone to cracking from fatigue. Going to give the 1/4" a try but need to pick some up first.

Here is the alternative using the stock pipes.






If the stock pipes weren't so damned expensive I would cut them near the head and join them to the copper.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

acdii, check out this site, click my link. maybe they can help you with your pipes.
make sure you click on "3-D Canisters and Pipes" on the upper-left.

I think you could send him your pipes and he will copy them in aluminum to the ID you want.

it will only cost you money, but what's money in this hobby LOL

Jim
http://www.planebenderproducts.com/index.html

acdii

That's cheating though and takes away from the hobby for me. I could easily go with someone else ready made solution, but there's no challenge to that. Thats what I love about this hobby, the challenges of making things work the way you want. Had I known I would have this engine for it before I built is, I would have had the fuse configured to bring the pipes out the scale location via a tube.

Glowgeek

So there's your challenge Todd, mod the fuse for the factory exhaust locations and make it look like it never happened.

On many of the used ARFs I buy my challange is to undo the stupidity of the manufacturer and the previous owner and make it look new. Most times they come out looking very nice. The only real drawback is the expense of buying whole rolls of this or that color to repair small areas of damaged or peeling film. Same thing with repairing and repainting cowls. That's ok though, I'll use it all eventually.

acdii

I gave it thought, but would require more work than it is worth, with no guarantee that it will actually work. I could cause more damage to the plane that would need to then be repaired and then have to repaint it which means waiting until the spring since it is 2K clear. At this point I know the stock one will work, just not look as good. I also need the space in the nose for the glow control and retract module and both batteries. Which reminds me, need to weigh the plane again.

Glowgeek

I have an FG14C that's giving me fits. Ran enough fuel to get it broke in but it's still not running right. Compression is great now, starts and idles fine, runs strong at wot but runs stupid rich from just above idle to around 4k. When I lean the lsn enough to get it smoothed out in the low rpm range the hsn will not richen at wot(A good indication that the lsn is set too lean). I've tried numerous times leaning the lsn a tiny bit at a time but in the end I get the same result. With needle settings I can get it to run fine from idle to 4K or 4K to WOT, just not both with one needle setting. Weird but a challenge to figure out. Good times.

So far I've tried the following:
Checked Cam Timing
Checked Ignition Timing
Checked valve lash
Fresh fuel
Cleaned Carb and Pump Assembly
Pump Diaphrams are good
Pump pulse port is unobstructed
Bearings are smooth and spin freely

Dave sent me a new ignition to try, hopefully that fixes it. If not it could have bad muffler bearings or be low on blinker fluid. I haven't checked those yet.

Jesse Open

Ah yes, the the seeming mission impossible; Second guessing the idiot ARF designers and previous owners. Correcting stupidity is always tough.

As an alternative, the short sighted, lazy folks often take the easy way out and build from scratch.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

I sure understand that !

as for your bends, maybe this will help. in the past I have turned 2" OD hard wood on the lathe. cut a slot, and bent tubbing in the slot and it worked great, the funny of it, I also did it with an OS SX50 piston. I cut the ring slot a bit deeper/a bit wider. it worked

Jim

Hyjinx

Hey AllI have located some bendable pipe to try to make a ring for my five cylinder.
Saw a post about a low melting point pot metal to fill the tube with for bending.
like to try that as I haven't had good success with other methods I have already done bending with prior to this project.
Was that mentioned here?

Glowgeek

Why not cap and solder/braze one end, fill with sand, cap solder/braze other end end, bend and then cut ends off. Or cap and solder/braze one end shut, stand pipe up, fill with water, freeze and bend.

I'm not sure if either would work but hot sand is commonly used to bend plastic pipe for pvc structures. The bends come out looking quite nice.