w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Bob,

This is a excellent example of what Power Cleaner can, can not, and will do.

I personally had not experienced this because I had read on the bottle that it had a high PH and knew that it would eventually etch the aluminum.

Jim

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Jim,
I never read that about the pH, I guess I should have paid more attention to that part of the instructions.

I left mine covered for about 30 minutes, and that got most of it off, leaving only the really bad stuff... the engine came out better than before I cleaned it, but as you point out, too much time will etch the aluminum.

Bob

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It says on the bottle ingredients: Contains biodegradable alkaline cleaning agents and solvents.

In the directions it talks about 10-15 minutes typical with a 30 min max on time before rinsing

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Hobbysy- thank you very much for that link! I've been looking for good 3 bladed spinners for a while now. Looks like a lot of cutting for APC props though. Only one size?

The APC 12x6 is a very good prop for the .72 if you can't use the 13x6, which is much better. My engine ran much better when I moved from the 12x8 to the 12x6. But, the 13x6 gives much better performance.

RVM

So antifreeze remains the #1 way to completely clean an engine of castor and carbon buildup? Man, I wanted to avoid taking the whole engine apart and pulling the gaskets and whatnot. Oh well, thanks!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If you let an engine boil in antifreeze for any length of time it will turn off color also.

Just hot but not boiling

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

I will be trying out Demon-clean, as soon as my order arrives

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Mike,

Be sure and give us a report when you are done....

Jim

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Jim, sure will. I have tried Cheveron engine cleaner with good results, but I don't think its available anymore. A bottle is good for probably a few cleans, done at room temp.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

I don't understand why so many guys think antifreeze will damage gaskets and o-rings?!

How many 1:1 scale automobile engines use antifreeze...all of them...
How many use gaskets and o-rings...all of them...

The damage occurs when ya get it too hot...

Spend 15. bucks and get a devoted "slow cooker" and use it just for cleaning engines so you don't have to "appropriate" your significant other's and if you have any doubts...get yourself a cooking thermometer...

120-140 degrees is as warm as you need...and the engine itself will get hotter than that when it's running...

RVM

I can take my engine, pull out the plug, drop it into the antifreeze, allow the antifreeze to get into all of the engine, and not have to worry about killing the various gaskets and o-rings in it? I don't mind taking the jug off and whatnot, but I don't want to start pulling bearings etc.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Sure...I do it that way most of the time...works great
Been cleaning engines with my G.E. 3.5qt. slow cooker for about 4 years now.
I do part time repair work for our LHS and have worked on dozens of other peoples engines...I charge 5-10. just to clean an engine, and guys pay it...usually because they're gonna sell that engine.

The only time I dis-assemble an engine is if it needs bearings, or other mechanical work / parts.

Scrub w/ a tooth brush...and you might want to have a drip pan...I use an old cookie sheet to catch stray drippings.

If you want to do a real nice job, and be able to do other engines that are dis-assembled, make a basket out of metal window screen with a 1/16" music wire loop handle so you don't have to fish around in the mucky bottom of the pot.

Edit : the only part(s) I would remove is the plastic carb. throttle arm...just in case...or any part you think might distort w/ 120-140 deg. heat? But O-rings and gaskets are safe...good luck!

RVM

Awesome. Thanks for the input, and I guess antifreeze it is!

Which brand of antifreeze do you use?

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

The cheapest full strength green stuff that AutoZone, or Advanced auto parts has on sale...
Gotta be the good old fashioned green ethelyene glycol and un-diluted...

If, after you've done several engines and it gets kind of syrupy...you can add a little water...but it's best to use full strength stuff.

I put about 1/2 a gallon in my 3.5 qt. cooker and it will do a .60, or a couple of .40's ( or smaller ) at the same time.

I can clean about a dozen engines before the fluid gets too grungy...then I use the remaining half gallon, so a gal will do approx. 20-maybe 30 engines depending on how dirty they are.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

If I can add my $.02 here, I've set my crock pot outside due to the smell/odor and let the motors go overnight on low heat (proptop, is that what you do also???)

Be careful if your wife has any cats - apparantly they love this stuff.

Bob

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Hi Bob, actually, I'm lucky...I have the whole upstairs of my house as a workshop...

I'm single, so I'm sorta "King of the Castle" and I keep the upstairs "off limits" to everyone...including our cats...(Mom lives with me since her stroke...she's 89 now...I take care of her full time since I quit my job to do so...that's why I have so much "free" time to spend here on RCU too )

Anyway...
I don't let the solution get hot enough to really generate any fumes as such...there's just a faint whiff of melted candy bar or something like that...(it occasionally smells like a car with a heater core that's seeping a little, ya know? )

Last time I had a female friend up there and she saw all my planes and such she just sorta rolled her eyes and said I was a case of arrested development... (the nerve!)

stallwart

Today I "remaidened" a 40 size Spit with my Fa82a that had been involved in a crash a few weeks ago. Since I was not convinced there might have been any damage to the engine, I sent it back to Horizon. Result: Bearings questionable, and replaced---no other damage noted. Engne was test run with good results; idle and transition fine.

The engine started up (12x8 prop-50 deg F --2 turns out on high speed) first first attempt and ran well. I took off and flew for several minutes making a few landings and takeoffs. After 8-10 minutes, I noticed the engine surging and ended up making a deadstick which, fortuanately, was not catastrophic.

All attempts to restart the engine were in vain. It would run for a few seconds, and then quit. I made gradual adustments to lean and richen the low end, but to no avail.

Any tips would be appreciated.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Your glo plug is bad or you have no fuel to the engine

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Stallwart, do you have a fuel filter installed?

Thunderchild

Hello Hobbsy,

Can you tell me please if the numbers on the right refer to just the adapter nut, or are they spinners complete with that diameter adapter nut?

3 bladed Graupner Prop Spinners

GR7015 1/4-28 Prop Nut ..... $ 8.90
AVAILABLE SOON
GR7016 7mm Prop Nut ..... $ 8.90
IN STOCK
GR7017 8mm Prop Nut ..... $ 8.90
IN STOCK
GR7018 5/16-24 Prop Nut ..... $ 8.90
IN STOCK
GR7014 3/8-24 Prop Nut ..... $ 8.90
IN STOCK

Thanks

TC

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The spinners are $13.90, it looks like without the adapter nut. I'll call em today and ask.

dougwill

Anybody have any suggestions for prop and spinner combinations for Saito 150?


Doug

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Doug, the prop will depend on what type of plane and flying that you wish to do, and your nitro%. Could you describe that a little?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

A 16x8 is the normal prop for a 1.50 and nothing less than a Tru-Turn spinner will do.

dougwill

Thankss rajul, Hobbsy
It's going on a Showtime eventually. I wanted to test engine on a stand. Would the 16x8 be the lower limit up to say a 18x6? This is a monster compared to my other Saitos. Already threw a Dubro aluminum nut and spinner off.

Doug