Glowgeek

Yeah, that cam is hammered pretty good. Not as bad as the used 115 I got though. That cam was troughed all the way around the nose. Worst cam I've ever seen! That said, obviously the used engine I received was run on Coolpower 100% synthetic oil, as evidenced by the green tinge to all of the internal components. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that 100% synthetic oil caused the problem. Could have been over revved or the lash could have been poorly maintained, or both. Or Coolpower is crap fuel, as many have said. Or 115's have cam oiling problems as some have stated. Hard to say because I've not run a 115 long enough to make a proper assessment.

Truth is, I'd probably never see excessive cam/tappet wear with any engine I own due to my religious use of after run oil. All my engines get a 5-7cc dose of ATF at the end of every flying session. I shoot it in through the vent, rotate the plane around to different positions to distribute the ATF and go chat with the boys for a few minutes while the excess drains out. Then I put a starter on it, spin it up to blow the rest out and put the plane back in the truck. Grab another plane and off I go again. How would I know if a particular engine has cambox oiling problems? Don't want to know!

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

The cam sure has got some time on it. I wonder where the seller got it? He didn't seem to interested it in except as something to sell to make a buck. Your finding give us a bit of backstory to the engine.

Glowgeek

Maybe "time", maybe abuse. Running larger (82 and up) Saitos at 11K plus in the air combined with poor valve lash and after run oil maintanance will create the same issues in short order. So will putting a Saito to rest for a year after running high castor content (10% plus) fuel. Something I have first hand knowledge with. OS 4 strokes have larger diameter tappets and stiffer valve springs, they can take a bit more of those kinds of abuses, Saitos need to be treated with more care.

As an example: After refreshing around 20 OS 4 strokes I have never had to replace a cam or tappet. Of the 50 or so Saitos I've refreshed I've had to replace the cams in around 70% of them, tappets in 95% of them. Just how its been and by and large avoidable.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks for the information!

Captcrunch44

I run my big engine’s 10k plus.
I don’t have any problems

1200SportsterRider

Mike's 115 is all done and I ran 14 oz of fuel through it. After 7 oz had gone through it.

Saito FA 115 with B on the right lug.
Fuel======Wildcat 10% with 18% full synthetic.
Plug =====Glo-Devil 4c Special for Enya and Saito
Prop=====Xoar 15 x 7
Max rpm==8,810
Idle======1,920

It was pleasure to work on t.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Sounds like she is a keeper! Thanks Dave! I can see a new airplane in its future!

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

Well looks like this marriage will be short lived . Purchased the Keleo exhaust for the 170 R3 but decided to get Morris Mini Motor exhaust. So this will be going back. Still looks good though. Wish I could run it and get a sound clip to compared against the MMM exhaust.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Sexy!

1200SportsterRider

The 8,810 rpm for Mike's 115 is 150 rpm higher than my own 115. I'll have to examine mine a little. I used a .5 mm larger diameter tube for his velocity stack which means his velocity stack is .75 mm larger than the carb venturi. That's a mighty big 65.

My "A" version on the right, Mike's "B" version on the left.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

That FA-65 label has to go! Another case of being better lucky than smart!

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Since the FA-115 will be headed home today I decided one more update was in order. I broke out the old P-Touch and here it is!

1200SportsterRider

It's on it's way as of 11:29 am, I had a choice of $48.00 for Saturday and $11.00 for Monday, I'll pm the tracking number. That number it'll look good on there. The 65 is held on there with canopy glue or something similar. It's something clear and allows the number to slide back and forth slightly. I sent the included glow plug along and left the brand new Glo-Devil in it.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I hope you went for $11 and Monday! I can't thank you enough!

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

David, I had a thought what is the fuel consumption of a FA-115? I'm trying to decide on a tank size I need. A 8 to 10 minute runtime should do it.

Thanks!.

MIke

1200SportsterRider

Mike, it's generally accepted that Saitos use 1 oz of fuel per minute, per minute, per cubic inch of displacement, at full throttle. This rule is not iron clad as the larger the engine the better the fuel economy is. So 1.15 x 10, (minutes) would equal about 11.5 oz. The low speed needle has a huge effect on this. I mostly use Roto Flow tanks, the one on my PSP test stand is a 14 oz which fits the bracket perfectly. All the plumbing inside is metal.
https://www.jlproducts.net/ProductRotoFlow.html

1200SportsterRider

Mike from Iowa, your 65 GK crankcase and cam cover refinished, cylinder ready for touch up. I am going to leave it with bumpy, high compression piston unless you prefer otherwise.

Cylinder and cam housing done.

Ready for DupliColor Ceramic paint.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Nice job David!

Glowgeek

Nice work Dave. Surprised to see you have the energy to do these things with all you've been through lately.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Ok Saito experts. I'm migrating my Corsair (FG90 radial) over to my Powerbox Core radio and I'll be using the telemetry features to monitor all 3 cylinders temperature.

My forte is radios not engines so I'll pose the following questions to my favorite motor heads
1. Where's the best place to attach the thermocouple sensors on each cylinder.
2. I can configure telemetry based alerts, so at what temperature should I set the warning alarms at to prevent engine damage, yet not get constant screaming while flying in the Florida heat.

Thanks in advance!

acdii

When I did use a thermocouple I placed it right at the point where the flame front would be the hottest, which is one horizontal fin below the vertical fins. Depending on the fin layout, on my FG30 it is the fin that meets up with the intake and exhaust bungs. I don't remember the temp setting, but I took the temp after a good run up on the bench and added 10* to it.

Glowgeek

Save yourself some frustration, telemetry temp sensors don't provide any usable temp data for tuning, regardless of location. Not even useful for comparative measurements between cylinders due to uncontrollable variables eg air flow changes over the engine at various RPM and air speeds. If we had actual EGT sensors in the exhaust flow it would be a different story.

If you're worried about running your gasser too lean or too hot, don't. Unlike a glow ignition engine a gasser will simply quit running under either of those conditions and shouldn't cause any damage to internal engine components.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

I will only answer question #1,.. for sure put the sensors on the back of the engine because on the front they will get more cool air,, and,, I would put it on the back of the head about even with top of the compression chamber, it seams to me that will be hotter than the front and far enough away from the Exhaust port to get a more correct reading.
just my thoughts on, I'm not an expert on that stuff, so I may be wrong, and I didn't sleep at a Best Western last night.
Jim

acdii

Thats the same place I recommended, but being behind the head is a good tip too. The ones I have are loops that wrap around the head.

Captcrunch44

Wow Dave
that’s great, looks awesome!!!