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Old 01-23-2022, 08:08 AM
  #51926  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
Me too.
I recall coming across one model long ago without the spring. Thinking it had been left out by mistake I tried one . It flat out would not allow full throttle closure. After looking into the matter found it was not used from the factory in that case.I found other people who ran into the same issue at the time.


If the throttle wont close, good chance there should be no spring.

Not sure about the spot faced throttle barrel as there is a distinct possibilty the carb body on a spring free version is different as well. Saito is not so good about documenting the odd production variations.

If it comes down to it, I probably still have a few new carbs as I have been converting FG models to methanol fuel. Right now that box of parts is with a friend in North Carolina who is converting a pair of FG-20 to methanol fuel.

Anyhow I can probably help out with a factory fresh 125 carb as I bought several of them.
What are you doing with the gas carbs? Target practice?
Old 01-23-2022, 08:32 AM
  #51927  
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Originally Posted by acdii
What are you doing with the gas carbs? Target practice?
I just converted a Fuji gaspoline engine on a RCM Super Sportster to methanol. Just like the old days on my go kart engines. Seems to run much better now but need to see how they hold up. Bottom line is, the Saito carbs may also have a second chance!





Here is a variation on the velocity stack.It really works well at cleaning up the engine room as well as a large part of the plane exterior.

The tube in this case is swedged to allow for passing thru the plywood mount. A tube soldered to the side passes vent oil to the carb intake rather than the intake passage from carb to valve area. No negative effect on running.



















Last edited by Jesse Open; 01-23-2022 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 01-23-2022, 10:50 AM
  #51928  
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Never thought I would see an PCV system on a Saito, but there you go!
Old 01-23-2022, 11:44 AM
  #51929  
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how about a glow Saito 120 converted to gas/w E Ignition, converted back to methanol/w E Ignition LOL. I have the stock 120 crab, and I just remembered the other day I have 2 or 3 gallons of straight methanol with 6% Castor, sO all I need is synthetic to add.

Jim
Old 01-23-2022, 12:04 PM
  #51930  
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LOL Jim,
Whatever you feel like. Saitos are a ball to own .
FG-20 with CH ignition on methanol fuel .
Gaspoline is fine too
Old 01-23-2022, 12:20 PM
  #51931  
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looks like Piglet fits the 4-Star 120 pretty good. so I don't have to cut holes in the canopy for his ears. I really wanted to put him in my 4-Star 60 with the open cockpit. but he is painted so I have to keep fuel off him. so he's going to fly the 120. and I'm sure he is a good enough pilot to handle the larger plane.

as for the silver backing behind Piglet, I got it from a insolated bag for shipping cold food. basically it's bubble wrap. well it's not glued down yet and I have more it, so I just noticed that some of it has a duller shine. so with less shine it looks closer to aluminum, so I will recut another piece. my plain is to cut it a bit smaller so you can see the yellow covering wrapped around the edges of the back.
but I need to make a boarder for the insolation. I thought about using a small diameter hose, slice the hose on one side and glue it the edges of the insolation. any one have a better idea on what to use for making a boarder around the silver backing??

Jim


Old 01-23-2022, 12:22 PM
  #51932  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
LOL Jim,
Whatever you feel like. Saitos are a ball to own .
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zP97Ubf3JXs
FG-20 with CH ignition on methanol fuel .
Gaspoline is fine too

LOL it perrrrrs like a kitten

Jim
Old 01-23-2022, 01:06 PM
  #51933  
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Give Piglet a coat of a flat or satin Polyurethane that will protect his pint from any fuel.
Old 01-23-2022, 01:11 PM
  #51934  
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Piglets make great pilots there Jimmie. Can't beat them Vemont piggys.
Old 01-23-2022, 06:19 PM
  #51935  
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
Piglets make great pilots there Jimmie. Can't beat them Vemont piggys.
did you ever read that book written in Vermont, about Vermont, and about Vermont pigs and a Vermont family "the Day no Pigs Would Die".

Jim
Old 01-23-2022, 06:27 PM
  #51936  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
Give Piglet a coat of a flat or satin Polyurethane that will protect his pint from any fuel.
I have used it 30 years ago, but it was not clear when it dried, if the flat Poly is clear when it's dry I will have to find some one that has some, cause I rather not buy a half gallon just for Piglet and never use a drop of it again. well, unless it comes in those tiny cans like stain does.

Jim

Last edited by the Wasp; 01-23-2022 at 06:30 PM.
Old 01-23-2022, 08:22 PM
  #51937  
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Originally Posted by the Wasp
I have used it 30 years ago, but it was not clear when it dried, if the flat Poly is clear when it's dry I will have to find some one that has some, cause I rather not buy a half gallon just for Piglet and never use a drop of it again. well, unless it comes in those tiny cans like stain does.

Jim
Check the rattle cans too.
Old 01-23-2022, 08:27 PM
  #51938  
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hummm. I wonder if this guy in the video can boar-out my 100GK cylinder for me LOL


Jim
Old 01-24-2022, 03:21 AM
  #51939  
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My 125 has a barrel spring but closes to about 1/64", I didn't try it without the spring, it won't run a 1/64" inch so I ain't a-worryin about it.

Jim and Quick, you should get your little packages in a couple of days.
Old 01-24-2022, 05:31 AM
  #51940  
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Thanks Dave, Nothing to worry about there.
i
Old 01-24-2022, 05:58 AM
  #51941  
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If you do use Poly, make sure it is not water based, fuel eats right through it.
Old 01-24-2022, 10:33 AM
  #51942  
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Originally Posted by acdii
If you do use Poly, make sure it is not water based, fuel eats right through it.
And the oil modified ("poly") urethanes don't remain clear, (or start out) clear.
Automotive urethanes and clears will resist well , but color overcoated with five minute epoxy will remain clear and holds up to any of the fuels we commonly use if spills are removed for me anyhow. I put it over most enamel basses and you have a very clear fuel proof overcoat over a good resistive finish to start with.
Have also mixed the enamel into the epoxy successfully for a single coat application for a clearless flatter appearance. ( Like black or silver for fuelproof firewalls)
Krylon fusion will mix and dry normally. Small quantities, local availability lots of colors.
Far less expensive than the auto urethanes and necessary reducers and quantity purchases, just to go bad in the can in a month....
Bread crumbs. Lol
Old 01-24-2022, 12:23 PM
  #51943  
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Great tips.
Old 01-24-2022, 01:52 PM
  #51944  
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OK, thanks for replying about the Poly!! I will read it all again later.

but I have a real problem now, I can't get the prop of the 120. it wont move!. it's wood Xoar, what should I do ??

you see I have to remove the engine because the carb is locked up, and I have to remove the prop because it was not balanced.

thanks!
Jim
Old 01-24-2022, 01:59 PM
  #51945  
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Originally Posted by the Wasp
OK, thanks for replying about the Poly!! I will read it all again later.

but I have a real problem now, I can't get the prop of the 120. it wont move!. it's wood Xoar, what should I do ??

you see I have to remove the engine because the carb is locked up, and I have to remove the prop because it was not balanced.

thanks!
Jim
Take the spinner off and double nut the end of the crank. That will allow you to hold the crank still with a wrench so you can work the prop loose. Good luck Jim.

PS, a heat gun works pretty good for releasing "castor stuck" carbs.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 01-24-2022 at 02:02 PM.
Old 01-24-2022, 02:52 PM
  #51946  
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Even more controllable, just use the tip of your Weller soldering gun into the carb inlet. The localized heat with a bit oil, works miracles

You can often do it right on the plane.
Old 01-24-2022, 05:49 PM
  #51947  
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Originally Posted by 1200SportsterRider
My 125 has a barrel spring but closes to about 1/64", I didn't try it without the spring, it won't run a 1/64" inch so I ain't a-worryin about it.

Jim and Quick, you should get your little packages in a couple of days.
Thank you Sportster!

Thatís interesting. The barrel gap I saw was much larger. I stopped by my LHS to look at a used fa-125 (early version) they have on consignment. It did not have a spring. Then I received this reply from Horizon today. Iím not going to worry about it anymore.



Old 01-24-2022, 06:58 PM
  #51948  
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Originally Posted by 1200SportsterRider
My 125 has a barrel spring but closes to about 1/64", I didn't try it without the spring, it won't run a 1/64" inch so I ain't a-worryin about it.

Jim and Quick, you should get your little packages in a couple of days.

thanks Dave !!

Jim
Old 01-24-2022, 07:16 PM
  #51949  
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Lonnie & Gary.

Lonnie, LOL just slap me, I should have thought about that ! well that worked out pretty good for me, but man I never saw a prop so tight on the shank Lannie !

Gary, another funny here. I had a 35w Radio Shack solder iron. what junk. it took a long time to heat up, then it would cool down, so I had to wait for it to heat up again over and over. the thing was hardly used. well. the last time I used it I checked Towers, and I saw they have a 45w iron. I got right up and went in and cut the power wire off my iron and threw the wire in my scrap coper box. I still have to order that new iron.

Jim
Old 01-24-2022, 08:44 PM
  #51950  
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Originally Posted by Quikturn
Thank you Sportster!

Thatís interesting. The barrel gap I saw was much larger. I stopped by my LHS to look at a used fa-125 (early version) they have on consignment. It did not have a spring. Then I received this reply from Horizon today. Iím not going to worry about it anymore.


Bingo!

Thanks for the update.

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