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Old 02-07-2022, 08:21 AM
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Great video I downloaded it for future reference.
Old 02-07-2022, 05:55 PM
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Lonnie, thanks for the video. but what was he spraying on it ? a spray glue to stop the air from seeping threw the foam?

Gary, cool, thank you too, but stop talking like that, I'm starting to get anxious LOL

Jim
Old 02-07-2022, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by the Wasp
Lonnie, thanks for the video. but what was he spraying on it ? a spray glue to stop the air from seeping threw the foam?

Gary, cool, thank you too, but stop talking like that, I'm starting to get anxious LOL

Jim
CA accelerator to make it set instantly. Also sold under the names CA activator and CA kicker.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 02-07-2022 at 06:05 PM.
Old 02-08-2022, 03:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
The outlet area on you P-40 has exit air dams, that's great, as long as the firewall doesn't block them from extracting hot air. Hard to see, but if your inlet openings don't have baffling directing cooler inlet air to ONLY your cylinder it is easy enough to fix. The 3mm/1/8" thick black sheets of "Craft Foam" they sell at dept stores works well and is CA safe.
Interesting! What is that "craft foam"?

I use Balsa, but basically do the same

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Old 02-08-2022, 03:45 AM
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Bert, it is EVA foam. It's easily cut to irregular shapes with scissors,it's flexible, waterproof, paintable and can be glued with many common adhesives. The melting point is somewhere between 170f to 213f so care must be taken.
Old 02-08-2022, 03:56 AM
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OK... EVA foam does not immediately ring a bell, I'll look into that.

For now, I feel more comfortable with Balsa, as it does not have a melting point
Old 02-08-2022, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 1967brutus
OK... EVA foam does not immediately ring a bell, I'll look into that.

For now, I feel more comfortable with Balsa, as it does not have a melting point
Oh yeah, I forgot, you're an engineer. IIRC it's Ethelyne Vinyl Acetate.

ETA: Your baffling job on that R5 looks great.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 02-08-2022 at 04:42 AM.
Old 02-08-2022, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 1200SportsterRider
Neither the Cline nor the Iron Bay regulator will allow fuel to flow until there is a demand. They eliminate the need for the 300 rpm rich from peak setting. The engine always thinks the fuel supply is only .75" away. The little 30 with the air bleed carb works perfectly with the either brand.


John at Iron Bay was not certain that the regulator would flow enough fuel for the 2.20, I tied it on a 2.20 and on a Super Tigre 4500. It worked perfectly.
Dave,
Of the two, Iron Bay and Cline, which one was your favorite?

Last edited by Jesse Open; 02-08-2022 at 04:57 AM.
Old 02-08-2022, 05:21 AM
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I guess it would be the Cline because the fuel line attachments are standard sized and the Iron Bay because the fuel line attachments are brass. The Cline elbows can pop off with a little rough handling. They don't pop off from pressure. Difficult choice.
Old 02-08-2022, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Bert, it is EVA foam. It's easily cut to irregular shapes with scissors,it's flexible, waterproof, paintable and can be glued with many common adhesives. The melting point is somewhere between 170f to 213f so care must be taken.
Is that the stuff from Hobby Lobby and Michael's that comes in a 8.5 X 11" sheet? I have used to frame jewelry for the wife.
Old 02-08-2022, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
Is that the stuff from Hobby Lobby and Michael's that comes in a 8.5 X 11" sheet? I have used to frame jewelry for the wife.
The very same.
Old 02-08-2022, 06:59 PM
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we have a Michael's here some 2 miles away, slick!

Jim
Old 02-08-2022, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 1200SportsterRider
I guess it would be the Cline because the fuel line attachments are standard sized and the Iron Bay because the fuel line attachments are brass. The Cline elbows can pop off with a little rough handling. They don't pop off from pressure. Difficult choice.

Still have a few of both?
Old 02-08-2022, 08:19 PM
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this guy wants to brake the Moped Land Speed Record. LOL you should see his bike. he cast his own cylinder, makes his own pistons, the last I knew of it he was talking 20,000 RPM. but here, if accurate he is only turning 11,000+. so I don't know what's up. but the subject says "SuperCharged" I think it really means "modified"

Jim
If it ant modified, it's going slower.

Old 02-09-2022, 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Jesse Open
Still have a few of both?
I'll take a look, I think I have one of each.

Well, I have three Cline's and one Iron Bay. All used.

Last edited by 1200SportsterRider; 02-09-2022 at 04:56 AM. Reason: Add content
Old 02-09-2022, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 1967brutus
Interesting! What is that "craft foam"?

I use Balsa, but basically do the same

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Nice looking work Brutus. I don't run my radials inside cowls but have one coming up that way. Was thinking aluminum flashing material. Maybe even vanes mounted inside the cowl diameter projected down between the cylinders. Well done.
Old 02-09-2022, 07:19 AM
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Whats interesting is the full scale planes when flying have the cowl flaps closed, only open when on the ground.
Old 02-09-2022, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by acdii
Whats interesting is the full scale planes when flying have the cowl flaps closed, only open when on the ground.
Yes, closed down but not fully closed off. The low pressure formed by cowl flaps and air dams provides an enormous amount of drag and turbulence at speed.

From what I've read wrt the Corsair is that the cowl flaps were manually adjusted and the oil cooler flap was thermostatically controlled. The cowl flaps could be adjusted by the pilot in flight to help control engine temps and fuel efficiency however, in the event of an impending dogfight the flaps were fully opened to prevent overheating. The flaps generally were only fully closed on the ground after a cool down period.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 02-09-2022 at 09:03 AM.
Old 02-09-2022, 08:41 AM
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Speaking of cooling issues, I have a Sopwith Baby project yet to build. The designer came up with an interesting feature to address this issue. This model's design has an engine 1/16" plywood cooling duct extending from the top of the firewall to the bottom of the fuselage. The baby is a slow flying and with a detailed dummy engine and a tight cowl the old 1960s .60 engine was an overheat risk, the cooling duct prevented this.
Old 02-09-2022, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
Speaking of cooling issues, I have a Sopwith Baby project yet to build. The designer came up with an interesting feature to address this issue. This model's design has an engine 1/16" plywood cooling duct extending from the top of the firewall to the bottom of the fuselage. The baby is a slow flying and with a detailed dummy engine and a tight cowl the old 1960s .60 engine was an overheat risk, the cooling duct prevented this.
That's fine, as long as the exit opening of that "cooling duct" is shaped in such a way as to form a low pressure area. For example: protruding from the cowl further at the leading edge of the opening than the trailing edge of opening. As a general rule, it doesn't matter so much where the exit opening is pulling air from within the cowl e.g. top, bottom or sides, it matters how it is pulling it.

Not like this

Like this.


Over the course of the last couple of years I have converted almost all of my cowled glow aircraft to gassers. Much higher temps to deal with. Inlet baffles and a better way to eject hot air became mandatory. Inlet baffles alone did not solve the overheating issues on a couple of them. Some form of air dam to create a low pressure at the outlet opening fixed all my heat related issues.

These tiny louvered vents are quite handy, and cheap, for creating low pressure at the air outlet(s). They can even be trimmed to use only one louver as an air dam if so desired.
https://www.espritmodel.com/cooling-...-x-16mm-2.aspx

Last edited by Glowgeek; 02-09-2022 at 11:52 AM.
Old 02-09-2022, 01:28 PM
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Agreed, you need a little bit of lip on the engine side of the outlet to develop the low pressure area to pull the air away from the engine compartment.
Old 02-11-2022, 04:57 AM
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I buy this foam core board at Amazon, it is 24 x 36 x 3/16", I use it to back 1,000 piece puzzles after assembly to make picture I can hang. I plan to build a plane out of it too.

Light but strong.
Old 02-11-2022, 05:08 AM
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What is it?
Old 02-11-2022, 05:10 AM
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It is Foam Core Board, the same as Mudducks were made of. This is my second one, the first was the original 108" version.


Last edited by 1200SportsterRider; 02-11-2022 at 05:20 AM. Reason: Add content
Old 02-11-2022, 05:41 AM
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I use that for mold making because it can be waxed.

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