Welcome to Club SAITO !
03-11-2022, 04:19 AM
Originally Posted by 1200SportsterRider
Save your thermometers for cooking your turkey.
(in Europe we don´t cook turkey,, we go there for vacation)
03-11-2022, 05:59 AM
Originally Posted by RoKit
I am still confused.. what thermometers ?
(in Europe we don´t cook turkey,, we go there for vacation)
(in Europe we don´t cook turkey,, we go there for vacation)
What they are saying is that small differences in cylinder temps are not something to worry about. Measuring cylinder temp differences is a useful engine diagnostics tool however, if the there is a wide disparity between cylinders. But then, ONLY if the temps are measured at precisely the same place on each cylinder. An IR temp gun is useless and thermisters are difficult to place precisely enough to trust temp readings to a great accuracy.
About all temp sensors are good for is to show a CHANGE in temp. Only useful as a diagnostics tool if you've logged cylinder temp differences from a good running engine so that you can later diagnose it when it begins running poorly e.g. running rough, deadsticking, etc.
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RoKit (03-11-2022)
03-11-2022, 06:26 AM
Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Bwaaahahaaa!
What they are saying is that small differences in cylinder temps are not something to worry about. Measuring cylinder temp differences is a useful engine diagnostics tool however, if the there is a wide disparity between cylinders. But then, ONLY if the temps are measured at precisely the same place on each cylinder. An IR temp gun is useless and thermisters are difficult to place precisely enough to trust temp readings to a great accuracy.
About all temp sensors are good for is to show a CHANGE in temp. Only useful as a diagnostics tool if you've logged cylinder temp differences from a good running engine so that you can later diagnose it when it begins running poorly e.g. running rough, deadsticking, etc.
What they are saying is that small differences in cylinder temps are not something to worry about. Measuring cylinder temp differences is a useful engine diagnostics tool however, if the there is a wide disparity between cylinders. But then, ONLY if the temps are measured at precisely the same place on each cylinder. An IR temp gun is useless and thermisters are difficult to place precisely enough to trust temp readings to a great accuracy.
About all temp sensors are good for is to show a CHANGE in temp. Only useful as a diagnostics tool if you've logged cylinder temp differences from a good running engine so that you can later diagnose it when it begins running poorly e.g. running rough, deadsticking, etc.
But diffs of 30 degree Celsius is not acceptable in my world.
As you might remember from last year I spent several gallons and measuring various things in different ways.
however,, the initial topic this time (a week ago) is not at all about that.
It´s about correcting the design and having a perfect engine with regards to transition & reliability,
where off, that the temperature is just a confirmation. As I understand it,, some people are looking for perfection and some dont care.
I think its normal and nothing to judge, considering that the hobby means different things to different people.
It is also known that Saito them selves have recognized the issues and changed some of their later designs.
Last edited by RoKit; 03-11-2022 at 06:32 AM.
03-11-2022, 06:47 AM
Only time I us the IR is to verify the cooling baffles are working properly. Take a temp with the cowl off, put the cowl on and take a temp, if the temps are within the same range, good to go. Thats all I ever use it for.
03-11-2022, 07:57 AM
Seems nobody has a universal definition of "perfection" but to my definition, the Saito radials I have owned turned out as near perfect.
Absolutely steady, reliable idle, snappy and positive transition and good ultimate power output. Designed for methanol and run on methanol, so far no need to correct them.I ran them as Saito built them.
The adaptation to gasoline however often dictates some modifications and evolutionary alterations are put in for many reasons from cost cutting to relief from warranty issues and perhaps making the engine a bit more user-friendly.
I will not tolerate hard starting, unreliable idle, delayed transition in any power system.
Any rating of perfection is well beyond that
Absolutely steady, reliable idle, snappy and positive transition and good ultimate power output. Designed for methanol and run on methanol, so far no need to correct them.I ran them as Saito built them.
The adaptation to gasoline however often dictates some modifications and evolutionary alterations are put in for many reasons from cost cutting to relief from warranty issues and perhaps making the engine a bit more user-friendly.
I will not tolerate hard starting, unreliable idle, delayed transition in any power system.
Any rating of perfection is well beyond that
Last edited by Jesse Open; 03-11-2022 at 07:20 PM.
03-11-2022, 05:50 PM
My Feedback: (27)
RC Japan ?
Has anyone ordered parts from RCJapan.net ??
I have a Saito 80 that I got at a swap meet for $20. This one is the high compression version. It needs a good cleaning. The other thing it needs is an intake manifold part number SAI8069A. I have searched all over for this part. The only place I can find it is RC Japan. By the time I have it shipped to Texas it would cost me $36. I’m not sure I want to but a $36 part into a $20 engine. I think I could make a good runner out of it if I had the part. The engine looks and feels usable.
I could always just use this engine for parts for the Saito 80 I’m flying in a 4-Star 60.
I have a Saito 80 that I got at a swap meet for $20. This one is the high compression version. It needs a good cleaning. The other thing it needs is an intake manifold part number SAI8069A. I have searched all over for this part. The only place I can find it is RC Japan. By the time I have it shipped to Texas it would cost me $36. I’m not sure I want to but a $36 part into a $20 engine. I think I could make a good runner out of it if I had the part. The engine looks and feels usable.
I could always just use this engine for parts for the Saito 80 I’m flying in a 4-Star 60.
03-11-2022, 06:01 PM
Originally Posted by modeltronics
Has anyone ordered parts from RCJapan.net ??
I have a Saito 80 that I got at a swap meet for $20. This one is the high compression version. It needs a good cleaning. The other thing it needs is an intake manifold part number SAI8069A. I have searched all over for this part. The only place I can find it is RC Japan. By the time I have it shipped to Texas it would cost me $36. I’m not sure I want to but a $36 part into a $20 engine. I think I could make a good runner out of it if I had the part. The engine looks and feels usable.
I could always just use this engine for parts for the Saito 80 I’m flying in a 4-Star 60.
I have a Saito 80 that I got at a swap meet for $20. This one is the high compression version. It needs a good cleaning. The other thing it needs is an intake manifold part number SAI8069A. I have searched all over for this part. The only place I can find it is RC Japan. By the time I have it shipped to Texas it would cost me $36. I’m not sure I want to but a $36 part into a $20 engine. I think I could make a good runner out of it if I had the part. The engine looks and feels usable.
I could always just use this engine for parts for the Saito 80 I’m flying in a 4-Star 60.
Measure the actual inside diameter of the intake tube. I can PM some instructions that will probably help.
03-11-2022, 06:41 PM
You can probably restore at least function, may not be pretty but would probably work fine.
PM ur address, I will PM instructions and mail some helpful "tools".
Yet, considering what the engine cost you, your total cost, including a new pipe leaves you with a nice 80, still at a low total cost.
PM ur address, I will PM instructions and mail some helpful "tools".
Yet, considering what the engine cost you, your total cost, including a new pipe leaves you with a nice 80, still at a low total cost.
03-11-2022, 06:54 PM
My Feedback: (1)
Originally Posted by modeltronics
The ID is .280 "
Defiantly a HC engine.
Defiantly a HC engine.
how about filling it with water and plugging it and freezing it. you may have to do that a few times but that may pop out some of the bents.
Jim
03-12-2022, 05:13 AM
Originally Posted by Jesse Open
Measure the actual inside diameter of the intake tube. I can PM some instructions that will probably help.
Just kidding, too hard a material to blow the crush out of me thinks.
That was primarily to you for a laugh today buddy.
Aaron-
03-12-2022, 05:52 AM
My Feedback: (27)
The project for today will be to totally disassemble the engine and put it through an ultrasonic cleaner. I think it will clean up nice. If I can get the intake manifold fixed, I'm interested in how this high compression FA 80 runs in comparison to my standard compression FA80
03-12-2022, 05:58 AM
Originally Posted by Hyjinx
Lol. Maybe use shot shell fast burning powder to blow it back out like you fire form rifle brass.
Just kidding, too hard a material to blow the crush out of me thinks.
That was primarily to you for a laugh today buddy.
Aaron-
Just kidding, too hard a material to blow the crush out of me thinks.
That was primarily to you for a laugh today buddy.
Aaron-
03-12-2022, 06:06 AM
Originally Posted by Jesse Open
We devloped a similar process at work. It was a take-off from hydroforming, used hydraulic pressure to form pre-bent 4 inch diameter 17 foot long tubes .
My dad had one of his VERY early 270s. It's sits next to mine in my safe. Dear ole dad got Christmas card from Roy each year while he was living. Fun stuff but here I go off topic yet again Sorry guys, Ill stop typing soon and go downstairs and work on a needy project. Lol..
Last edited by Hyjinx; 03-12-2022 at 06:11 AM.
03-12-2022, 04:29 PM
Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
I have an old OS with a bent intake pipe and it runs fine.
03-12-2022, 05:03 PM
Originally Posted by Monty Python
Same here Mike. Had an FA82 went in vertical and the ply firewall bulkhead put a crease in the intake tube that amounted to a 50% reduction in diameter. Removed the engine and out of interest bench ran it to see how many rpm I dropped, the answer was zero.
May not be all that hard to make it look a bit better too.
03-13-2022, 07:45 AM
I am looking for an FG-20, tooth marks are OK.
Been able to roll out some of the dented tubes pretty nicely. Haven't had to do one quite as bad as Pedro's but should be able to get the worst of it out.
Been able to roll out some of the dented tubes pretty nicely. Haven't had to do one quite as bad as Pedro's but should be able to get the worst of it out.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 03-13-2022 at 07:49 AM.
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Hyjinx (03-13-2022)
03-13-2022, 09:55 AM
Originally Posted by acdii
No. amazingly enough it sprouted up in the yard one day. Found it while mowing grass.
My wife would never buy that story!
