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That's why I didn't recommend it.
I hold my other thumb on the pushrod end of the rocker, it never becomes unseated while snapping the valve shut. Even if it did you recommended, as I would, to check valve clearances.
Obviously, therefore my comment about others' comments being "right on".
Of course, that's why I said "compression good enough for start and run".
Any other opinions about my opinions?
Any other opinions about my opinions?
Last edited by Glowgeek; 05-29-2023 at 04:28 PM.


That's why I didn't recommend it.
In support of your comment.
Also making it clear that I had not suggested that either.
I hold my other thumb on the pushrod end of the rocker, it never becomes unseated while snapping the valve shut. Even if it did you recommended, as I would, to check valve clearances.
Like I said, a useful technique. A reminder to double check for dislodged pushrod afterwards regardless if you told him about the left thumb or not.
Obviously, therefore my comment about others' comments being "right on".
Thanks for your opinion.
Of course, that's why I said "compression good enough for start and run".
Again, affirming it is okay to run after confirming reasonable valve action
Added that running often restores normal compression.
Any other opinions about my opinions?
In support of your comment.
Also making it clear that I had not suggested that either.
I hold my other thumb on the pushrod end of the rocker, it never becomes unseated while snapping the valve shut. Even if it did you recommended, as I would, to check valve clearances.
Like I said, a useful technique. A reminder to double check for dislodged pushrod afterwards regardless if you told him about the left thumb or not.
Obviously, therefore my comment about others' comments being "right on".
Thanks for your opinion.
Of course, that's why I said "compression good enough for start and run".
Again, affirming it is okay to run after confirming reasonable valve action
Added that running often restores normal compression.
Any other opinions about my opinions?
....For either party

But for the most part it was mostly about agreement with a bit of additional info.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 05-29-2023 at 05:22 PM.

Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: lake in the Hills,
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The quickest check is simply sealing off with your finger one at a time, in turn the exhaust port and the intake port while rotating the crank. If there is valve leakage you should notice the compression improving. Seal the port during the part of rotation where that valve would be closed.
brickwoodward,
So, did a good soak and lube make any change?
Last edited by kmeyers; 05-30-2023 at 02:39 PM. Reason: clarity

My Feedback: (1)

well guys, my custom-made Slide Nut is out for delivery. haa, there's a joke in there somewhere.
I will get back my $67 tap that cost me $79. and my American made G drill bit made in Brazil "Jim scratches head trying to figure that one out", you know I was happy I was told that drill bit was made in America when I ordered it "Jim scratches head again".
I was laughing as I told my friend (he's a very good fabricator) about my short comings in my adventure of trying to replace my lathe's Slide.Nut. all the time telling the story I was laughing and thinking "well you got to do what you got to do" and when I ended my story he said to me LOL "you got to do what you got to do" of course he said that LOL. I laugh more LOL'
any hoo, I have the slide all cleaned up and re-oiled and gibs are adjusted and ready to go. let's see what tomorrow will bring LOL
BTW. I bought my granddaughters a box of small balsa free flight planes, those two (3 and 7) can run for 2 hours chasing those planes. they bring them back to me to thow LOL
Jim
I will get back my $67 tap that cost me $79. and my American made G drill bit made in Brazil "Jim scratches head trying to figure that one out", you know I was happy I was told that drill bit was made in America when I ordered it "Jim scratches head again".
I was laughing as I told my friend (he's a very good fabricator) about my short comings in my adventure of trying to replace my lathe's Slide.Nut. all the time telling the story I was laughing and thinking "well you got to do what you got to do" and when I ended my story he said to me LOL "you got to do what you got to do" of course he said that LOL. I laugh more LOL'
any hoo, I have the slide all cleaned up and re-oiled and gibs are adjusted and ready to go. let's see what tomorrow will bring LOL
BTW. I bought my granddaughters a box of small balsa free flight planes, those two (3 and 7) can run for 2 hours chasing those planes. they bring them back to me to thow LOL
Jim
Last edited by the Wasp; 05-30-2023 at 05:41 PM.


I got the solution made up this afternoon after we got back from Sam’s. Bottom dead center and filled it to the plug hole. If it takes more tomorrow I figure it’s washing gunk off the cylinder wall and into the crankcase. The drain is plugged. I’m not sure what is on the list for tomorrow, so I hope to check it? I mixed about one third marvel and two thirds foam.

My Feedback: (1)

[QUOTE=Jesse Open;12774115]Bet those planes made you remember being a 7 year old too![/QUOTE]
it sure did!! I remember one time, we had about 12, 14 kids flying them on the lot about an 1/8th mile below my dad's house. my plane had a rubber band LOL. I must have been 7 or 8. that lot was a sunken lot. the same year we had a bad Hailstorm. the ice balls were smaller than a baseball but bigger than an egg. boy did it come down. that lot was totally flooded. it must have had 7 inches of water. all the kids were soaking wet. LOL
Jim
it sure did!! I remember one time, we had about 12, 14 kids flying them on the lot about an 1/8th mile below my dad's house. my plane had a rubber band LOL. I must have been 7 or 8. that lot was a sunken lot. the same year we had a bad Hailstorm. the ice balls were smaller than a baseball but bigger than an egg. boy did it come down. that lot was totally flooded. it must have had 7 inches of water. all the kids were soaking wet. LOL
Jim

Join Date: Jan 2004
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I got the solution made up this afternoon after we got back from Sam’s. Bottom dead center and filled it to the plug hole. If it takes more tomorrow I figure it’s washing gunk off the cylinder wall and into the crankcase. The drain is plugged. I’m not sure what is on the list for tomorrow, so I hope to check it? I mixed about one third marvel and two thirds foam.
When I put a 2 stroke away for awhile, I run it dry and oil it. When I put a 4 stroke away, I always oil all my four strokes after a clean fuel washing. Because all the parts are oiled by blow by only (I have a gallon jug of marvel).
I don't remember which thread on here suggested an intake connection to the rocker covers to pull more lubrication through the cam and valve assemblies. This is something I am thinking of trying.
Senior Member

I went through the new 30-S yesterday, it is perfect inside, I did get rid of the blue rocker cover gaskets before they required a Jack Hammer to get them off. The intake valve was set perfectly, the exhaust was a little loose. I gave it a dose of Corrosion X, it's a super lube, whatever that means. The CX is tenacious, it stays on the rocker pins for long periods of time.
Frees stuck valves with the best of them, and preserves engines for at least 15 years, I have yet to store one longer.

Frees stuck valves with the best of them, and preserves engines for at least 15 years, I have yet to store one longer.

Last edited by 1200SportsterRider; 05-31-2023 at 01:49 AM. Reason: Add content


Many fine tips already presented. I have, for many years stored all of my 4 stroke engines with the piston at or near TDC during compression stroke. The closed valves help at keeping the valve to seat faces free of debris.
https://streamable.com/lqm48l
Copy and paste to open
This Ryan STA sat in a friend's basement since around 1997. The Saito FA-50 was oiled and stored with closed valves. A new battery for the radio and some fresh fuel were all it took to get the Saito back to life. Even though the engine came up and ran fine, I did replace the tank and fuel lines. (Glad I Did!)
https://streamable.com/lqm48l
Copy and paste to open
This Ryan STA sat in a friend's basement since around 1997. The Saito FA-50 was oiled and stored with closed valves. A new battery for the radio and some fresh fuel were all it took to get the Saito back to life. Even though the engine came up and ran fine, I did replace the tank and fuel lines. (Glad I Did!)
Last edited by Jesse Open; 05-31-2023 at 05:00 AM.

My Feedback: (1)

well guys my lathe is back together and working again. my Lead Screw uses a Woodruff Key for the Feed Wheal. well, I found a thicker Key and it fit tighter. it brought the Backlash down to less than .001. it surprised me. it's never been that tight before. yet the wheel turns only a bit tighter with the new nut and tighter lash. I have another story about that woodruff key, but I will tell you tomorrow.
later guys.
Jim
later guys.
Jim
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brickwoodward (06-01-2023)


Bill,
First thing to check, is valve clearances.
Very important.
Also, since you did move the valves manually, with your fingers; Make certain that a pushrod tip has not popped off of the adjuster screw tip and is riding along the side. Happens often with Saitos.
There are several, simple methods to locate compression leaks. All tests done with wide open throttle.
Escaping air makes sounds. You can hold the exhaust port near your ear while rotating the engine and listen. Likewise, the intake. A normal release is a puff like sound, a leaky valve has a higher pitched , squeezed sound. You can also put a piece of fuel line on the case vent tap and listen for ring leakage while turniing thru compression
The quickest check is simply sealing off with your finger one at a time, in turn the exhaust port and the intake port while rotating the crank. If there is valve leakage you should notice the compression improving. Seal the port during the part of rotation where that valve would be closed.
There are other methods but those above are pretty easy.

I usually use a pressure fitting at the plug hole ,lock the crank in place and use about 5 psi to pressurize. Any valve leakage or ring to crankcase leakage shows up instantly.
With pressure in the cylinder you can tip the engine and fill the ports with fluid and judge the leakage rate by observing the bubbles.
You can run a hose from the case vent and submerge the other end in a glass of water to see the air escaping.
Still, that slipped pushrod tip is a main suspect. You should catch it straight away while doing the valve adjustment.
First thing to check, is valve clearances.
Very important.
Also, since you did move the valves manually, with your fingers; Make certain that a pushrod tip has not popped off of the adjuster screw tip and is riding along the side. Happens often with Saitos.
There are several, simple methods to locate compression leaks. All tests done with wide open throttle.
Escaping air makes sounds. You can hold the exhaust port near your ear while rotating the engine and listen. Likewise, the intake. A normal release is a puff like sound, a leaky valve has a higher pitched , squeezed sound. You can also put a piece of fuel line on the case vent tap and listen for ring leakage while turniing thru compression
The quickest check is simply sealing off with your finger one at a time, in turn the exhaust port and the intake port while rotating the crank. If there is valve leakage you should notice the compression improving. Seal the port during the part of rotation where that valve would be closed.
There are other methods but those above are pretty easy.

I usually use a pressure fitting at the plug hole ,lock the crank in place and use about 5 psi to pressurize. Any valve leakage or ring to crankcase leakage shows up instantly.
With pressure in the cylinder you can tip the engine and fill the ports with fluid and judge the leakage rate by observing the bubbles.
You can run a hose from the case vent and submerge the other end in a glass of water to see the air escaping.
Still, that slipped pushrod tip is a main suspect. You should catch it straight away while doing the valve adjustment.
valve check and clearance coming.
Last edited by brickwoodward; 06-01-2023 at 07:49 PM.

My Feedback: (1)

about my woodruff key.
well the person that cut the half moon slot on the Lead Screw for the Key cut the slot way too deep. the key I found yesterday was .100" taller than the key that was on it. but still kind of short because the slot is so deep. so the Key should be around.100" taller. I looked on the net and I found a lot of places that supply Keys, some of the places had completely round Keys. but none of them had one that is .119" thick.
sO, how does someone make a .119" thick Woodruff key the easy way. well, he's got to be smarter than the average Bear!
. you fine an old drill bit with the correct ID and you slice its shank with a cut-off tool. yes Sr, that's how you do it. then you put it in a vice and mill it down.
what am I going to make first? well someone asked me to make a couple hose barbs for an old 16HP OB boat engine.
Jim
well the person that cut the half moon slot on the Lead Screw for the Key cut the slot way too deep. the key I found yesterday was .100" taller than the key that was on it. but still kind of short because the slot is so deep. so the Key should be around.100" taller. I looked on the net and I found a lot of places that supply Keys, some of the places had completely round Keys. but none of them had one that is .119" thick.
sO, how does someone make a .119" thick Woodruff key the easy way. well, he's got to be smarter than the average Bear!

what am I going to make first? well someone asked me to make a couple hose barbs for an old 16HP OB boat engine.
Jim
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brickwoodward (06-02-2023)


about my woodruff key.
...
sO, how does someone make a .119" thick Woodruff key the easy way. well, he's got to be smarter than the average Bear!
. you fine an old drill bit with the correct ID and you slice its shank with a cut-off tool. yes Sr, that's how you do it. then you put it in a vice and mill it down.
Jim
...
sO, how does someone make a .119" thick Woodruff key the easy way. well, he's got to be smarter than the average Bear!

Jim
Good on ya! Still having fun eh?
Feels good to have your lathe back I bet!
LOL, I just have to ask; Was that a jen-U-wine American drill?
A bit like the sin of buying a $20 ring for your Japanese Saito that was made on an American lathe by a guy in England. LOL
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brickwoodward (06-02-2023)


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Senior Member

I am attending, Warbirds Over Fredericksburg, today, I won't be able to fly, I hope some are powered by Saitos. Frank Noll will be there with one of his Warbird Jets.




Last edited by 1200SportsterRider; 06-03-2023 at 01:55 AM. Reason: Add image
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brickwoodward (06-03-2023)
Senior Member

Yes I was, one guy had a warbird powered by a Saito 325 radial. There were quite a few jets.

A British warbird?

A British warbird?
Last edited by 1200SportsterRider; 06-03-2023 at 02:54 PM.
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brickwoodward (06-03-2023)