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Old 05-20-2007, 08:20 PM
  #7376  
w8ye
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

The 65, 80, & 91 all have the same mounting dimensions which also are very close to the Magnum/ASP & OS 70's

The Saito 100 has the same mounting dimensions as a OS 91 and the Magnum/ASP four strokes
Old 05-20-2007, 08:30 PM
  #7377  
rustypep
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What routine is everyone using to break in their Saito's? I read both the Saito notes and the manual. The manual just says not to run it over a certain RPM for the first 10 minutes but doesn't specify how many runs to break the first 10 minutes up into. Thanks!
Old 05-20-2007, 09:17 PM
  #7378  
freeonthree
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I just start them, tune them, and fly. Never had a problem... I figure by the time ya get it tuned to run smooth, it's good to go. I havn't had a problem yet. Im a mid throttle flyer though, and just use full throttle for taking off. I would avoid long full throttle runs for the first tank is all.
Old 05-20-2007, 09:38 PM
  #7379  
NM2K
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ORIGINAL: Nitrodan73

Yeah I couldn't beleive it either until I saw the exhaust coming out of the carb. I think I am going to give it one more try today. If no luck, it is going back to Horizon to have them see what's wrong.

-----------


Smart man.
Old 05-20-2007, 09:47 PM
  #7380  
freeonthree
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Is that when it was running backwards ? If not, you either have a tight valve, or the cam timing is off a tooth or two.
Old 05-21-2007, 01:16 AM
  #7381  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Bill talked about melting the element in his air filter when accidentally firing up backwards.

Ernie
Old 05-21-2007, 06:55 AM
  #7382  
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Rus, the first 10 minutes is at 4,000 with the throttle set 1/4 to 1/3 and is done in a single run, I do mine by this system since I like things orderly and repeatable.
10 minutes at 4,000
10 minutes at 5,000
10 minutes at 6,000
10 minutes at 6,500, you will have burned about 16oz of fuel by now, refill tank, warm up, peak HS needle (and leave it for now) and procede to set the LS needle and idle, set the LS needle in 1/8th turn increments checking the transition and HS setting after every other change, on one of the LS needle changes it will speed up more than on the previous ones, you're getting close. Be willing to settle for a couple of hundred of extra idle rpm for now in favor of a smooth stumble free transition. Richen the HS needle down about 300 rpm and do your power runs, finish out the 2nd 16oz tank of fuel. You now have an engine ready to fly, it's taken less than an hour and burned about 32 oz of fuel. It doesn't take an 18 wheeler full of fuel to break in a Saito.
Old 05-21-2007, 07:11 AM
  #7383  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Dave, does that break in routine apply to the 100 also?

Larry
Old 05-21-2007, 07:25 AM
  #7384  
Hobbsy
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Larry, I've used that program on Saitos, YS, OS .52, and Enyas from a Saito .30 to a Saito 2.20 and it works every time. The 1.00 was on of the easiest to get a good idle and transition. On some engines if for example during the 5,000 rpm 10 minute run it doesn't accelerate about a 100 or 150 rpm I do 10 minutes at 5,500. During the first 10 minute runs the engine will usually end up 100 to 200 rpm faster at the end of that 10 minutes, smaller ones do it more and larger ones do it less. You'll have fun doing it and observing the engines character change during each 10 minute run. The 1.00 will tempt you to skip part of the runs because it will want to gallop instead of walk. It breaks in easy.
Old 05-21-2007, 07:31 AM
  #7385  
Birman
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Thanks Dave. I sent you a PM.

Larry
Old 05-21-2007, 03:05 PM
  #7386  
Ernie Misner
 
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Sounds like a good system Hobbsy. What fuel and do you add any extra castor for breakin or anything? Slightly less load of a prop than you'll be flying with?

Thanks,

Ernie
Old 05-21-2007, 03:09 PM
  #7387  
Ernie Misner
 
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Has anyone tried the ACE (hardware store) Pipe Thread Compound TFE Paste in place of, say teflon tape or high temp RTV silicone on their engines? This was recommended in the AMA magazine about 6 months ago. It should be good for exhaust threads, intake o-rings, and many other places. The teflon in this paste makes it good to 500 degrees F. I piced up a tube of it but haven't had a chance to try it yet.

Thanks,

Ernie
Old 05-21-2007, 04:21 PM
  #7388  
rustypep
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Hobbys,

Thanks for the detailed response. I have a new Saito 1.00 that I need to break in too and I just wanted to revisit the process. No problems so far but it is always good to see what everyone else is doing. I like to do this on a test stand and stick to a routine as well.

Rusty

ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Rus, the first 10 minutes is at 4,000 with the throttle set 1/4 to 1/3 and is done in a single run, I do mine by this system since I like things orderly and repeatable.
10 minutes at 4,000
10 minutes at 5,000
10 minutes at 6,000
10 minutes at 6,500, you will have burned about 16oz of fuel by now, refill tank, warm up, peak HS needle (and leave it for now) and procede to set the LS needle and idle, set the LS needle in 1/8th turn increments checking the transition and HS setting after every other change, on one of the LS needle changes it will speed up more than on the previous ones, you're getting close. Be willing to settle for a couple of hundred of extra idle rpm for now in favor of a smooth stumble free transition. Richen the HS needle down about 300 rpm and do your power runs, finish out the 2nd 16oz tank of fuel. You now have an engine ready to fly, it's taken less than an hour and burned about 32 oz of fuel. It doesn't take an 18 wheeler full of fuel to break in a Saito.
Old 05-21-2007, 05:37 PM
  #7389  
Hobbsy
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Ernie, I use WildCat Premium Extra 15% or PowerMaster 15% with 18% lube that is an 80/20 syn/castor blend. I use the stock plug.
Old 05-21-2007, 08:05 PM
  #7390  
Birman
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Ernie, I tried some of that high temp RTV silicone (around the exhaust on a 2 stroke) that I got from an auto store. One thing for sure, don't get it on your hands. It'll be there for 4 or 5 days. Even acetone wouldn't get it off.
Old 05-21-2007, 08:43 PM
  #7391  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Hobbsy,

I break mine in the same way you do except that I will give it some WOT blips on the second tank if the engine has smoothed out some. Not much, but a few. I will do it more on the last tank of fuel before putting it in a plane.
Old 05-22-2007, 08:40 PM
  #7392  
Nitrodan73
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I tried starting this engine again and NOTHING! So it's on it's way to Illinois for a looksy from Horizon. I was nice and easy on this engine but it seemed to give up on me. I will let you all know what I found out. Even if I have egg on my face.
Old 05-22-2007, 10:13 PM
  #7393  
WMB
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Who has the good deals on the 91/100's? I think the 65 will be getting yanked. Thanks, MikeB
Old 05-24-2007, 11:26 AM
  #7394  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

This Thread is HUGE

Question on a Saito 72 FA

What is the factory setting on the air screw ?? can't find it anywhere, they talk about the low and high speed screws, the engine doesn't seem to run at Full power, and I don't know who had the engine before one of our club members brought this too us. Just trying to help a friend here is all.
Old 05-24-2007, 11:42 AM
  #7395  
donkey doctor
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Hello Ernie; In my former carreer as a mechanic, I used a good size bucket of that liquid plumbers tape, as well as a few miles of the tape. I wouldn't use the goop in a spot that was obvious, only a hidden spot. Over the years I prefer the tape. A taped joint was always easier to open and re-tape then a gooped joint. If heat was involved, the goop would harden to a rock like state, and have to be wire brushed off to ensure a clean joint.

Someone came out with a space age never seize, designed to combat the galvanic action that two dis-similar metals make. It was ceramic based, and worked great on heavy equipment. This would work pretty good for the exhaust application. Trouble is, it costs about $6 an oz. and it's messy to apply. I'll go out to the shop and have a look.

It's called Rock 'n Roll, it's made in Germany, and we get it from J. Walters co., in Quebec. Maybe google it.
Old 05-24-2007, 11:58 AM
  #7396  
freeonthree
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My new little Pitts is goin for it's test flight today. Outside of installing the wheel pants, I finished it last night, finally... I sure hope the 56 powers it ok. She's ready to throw on the ground and hit the throttle. I just hope it doesn't do donuts after touchdown cause it's so short !
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Old 05-24-2007, 02:02 PM
  #7397  
N429EM
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Might fly a bit awkward with that rope on there. J/K
Very nice job. Looks great.






Hugged my Saito, last night.
Old 05-24-2007, 02:19 PM
  #7398  
freeonthree
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I know ! I was thinkin the same thing... This is one of those cheap models, similar to the Nitro Models Pitts Challenger, but this one has full wheel pants, but I won't install then until I get use to it a little. The manual was useless, and the hardware was just awful. I had to dip into my previously crashed parts department to put it together. It came out nice, but I won't buy any more $125.00 ARF's, thats for sure... The control throw specs in the manual don't make much sense either, so Im startin off light, and will sneek up on them slowly. There were no incidence specs either, so that first takoff is going to be scarey, not really knowing. With these models, we have to put our faith in the lazer cutting process, and cross our fingers. I'll post the test flight results tonight. Wish me luck ! lol
Old 05-24-2007, 08:58 PM
  #7399  
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i would like to see what you guys think of the correct glow plug for my saito 125. the specs say it comes from the factory with the hanger nine super plug. My hobby shop wants me to use an OS-F plug? what do you think. next this is a new engine i ran only 1 gallon of the wildcat 2&4 stroke fuel running it rich do you think it would be a good idea to change the glow plug or just lean it out and run it.
Old 05-24-2007, 09:22 PM
  #7400  
Hobbsy
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If the stock plug says Saito SS on one of the flats it is equal to or better than the OS-f. I run a Fox Miracle plug in mine.


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