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Old 05-27-2007, 10:53 PM
  #7426  
blw
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Swattley- there shouldn't be a problem running 30% but you may also not see the gain in whatever you are looking for either. Using fuel with 17% or better oil is sufficient. Some people like myself will suggest having castor in the oil mix. I'm running Omega 15% in my 1.25 and it puts out a lot of power for an engine that is still breaking in.

Ernie- Even though Bill was quite an engine expert there is some lack of agreement in how he suggested setting valve clearances. I use a .004 feeler guage. I also check mine about every 10 hours of run time, or less. You can't go wrong with .004 if that is in the range suggested for the engine.
Old 05-27-2007, 11:42 PM
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What size are the little nuts you use to adjust valve lash? The spanner that comes with the Saitos are junk. I need to find some itty bitty sockets.
Old 05-28-2007, 12:22 AM
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

I think a tiny box end wrench would be better than a socket. You need the put the allen wrench in at the same time you have a wrench on the nut sometimes.

Ernie
Old 05-28-2007, 01:33 AM
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Yeahhhh good point!


ORIGINAL: Ernie Misner

I think a tiny box end wrench would be better than a socket. You need the put the allen wrench in at the same time you have a wrench on the nut sometimes.

Ernie
Old 05-28-2007, 06:51 AM
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Robert, those little Saito wrenches are plenty tough enough to do their intended job, if you managed to hurt one of them you're wrenching the lock nuts way way too hard, mine are set just firm. They won't come loose. I set my 1.25 valve lash at .002 and it lost 200 rpm so I did as Barry suggests and went back to the Saito recommended .004.
Old 05-28-2007, 06:54 AM
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RVM,

It is a 4mm. Sears sells a little set called Midget Combination Metric Wrench set.
Old 05-28-2007, 07:00 AM
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RL, a few days after I got out of the hospital my wife took me to Sears in Fredericksburg and I picked up a set of those and a 1.5 gallon aircompressor with a real cast iron compressor with a piston ring and oil in the crankcase. The wrenches are of high quality and there seems to be a size for everything.
Old 05-28-2007, 09:40 AM
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Dave,

Is that compressor for air starts? Hee! Hee! I agree with you about the .004 clearance. There is no benefit to tightening the clearance. In the long term it could cause problems such as burnt valves, etc.. How's the 1.50 doing?

Jim
Old 05-28-2007, 10:44 AM
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At the suggestion of W8YE I got a set of ignition wrenches from Sears. I think there are something like 10 of standard and 10 of metric in a snap pouch. They are open/boxed ended wrenches and were about $28. I ordered mine online.
Old 05-28-2007, 11:20 AM
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Hello Ernie; It was Permatex liquid teflon we had, we used to call it gorrila snot. I don't know about the temperature handling abilities of the stuff, but the rock n' roll says it's good for up to 1500 degrees C.

As far as the valve setting goes; if you set your gap fron 004 to 002, your valve will open .002 more and there will be more open duration, allowing more mixture into the compression chamber. The valve overlap will also increase a bit. I know that were talking thousands of an inch here, but more is more.
Old 05-28-2007, 11:35 AM
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can someone post Pauls link at rcbearings, ive lost mine in my move and am not satisfied with my search, this will be lots easier

thanks!
Old 05-28-2007, 11:44 AM
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http://www.mcintoshcentral.com/rc-bearings/
Old 05-28-2007, 11:55 AM
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thanks rlmcnii
Old 05-28-2007, 12:20 PM
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Donkey Doctor,

Maybe I am misunderstanding your rational. I believe that the duration that a valve is open is dependent on the cam not the valve lash. I really don't understand all the hoopla over this adjustment. I have always used the recommended settings and have years of dependable service from my engines. I for one feel the design engineers have a reason for the settings. There will not be any measurable performance improvement at .002. If increasing power is the objective go with hotter fuel and a better muffler.

Jim
Old 05-28-2007, 01:58 PM
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Well, the ones I have (3 of them) are all just a bit large for the nut. I didn't *think* I was over torquing them, but then, I very well may have been. I was always told the lock nuts should be as tight as possible, so I pretty much got them as tight as I could. If that is the case, it is probably a good thing that the spanner rounded out - it may have kept me from stripping or rounding the lock nuts.


ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Robert, those little Saito wrenches are plenty tough enough to do their intended job, if you managed to hurt one of them you're wrenching the lock nuts way way too hard, mine are set just firm. They won't come loose. I set my 1.25 valve lash at .002 and it lost 200 rpm so I did as Barry suggests and went back to the Saito recommended .004.
Old 05-28-2007, 02:01 PM
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I went from .004 to .015 (cigarette wrapper) and gained 270ish RPM on a Saito .82.

That's definitely measurable.

Hobbsy just posted that he did it with a 1.25 and lost 200 RPM, so I guess to each his own. You gotta try and see how it works for you I guess.


ORIGINAL: RC Specialties

Donkey Doctor,

Maybe I am misunderstanding your rational. I believe that the duration that a valve is open is dependent on the cam not the valve lash. I really don't understand all the hoopla over this adjustment. I have always used the recommended settings and have years of dependable service from my engines. I for one feel the design engineers have a reason for the settings. There will not be any measurable performance improvement at .002. If increasing power is the objective go with hotter fuel and a better muffler.

Jim
Old 05-28-2007, 04:13 PM
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Anyone know the website or company that was selling 90 degree headers that would fit the Saitos. I remember looking at it once but can't remember it now and Horizon has them on backorder and I would like to get one in my hands. Thanks!
Old 05-28-2007, 04:18 PM
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

RVM...you mean .0015 don't ya?

Some Saitos have a quietening (sp?) ramp before the cam lobe...it is just a sort of lead in into the main lobe of the cam...it takes up the lash before the major activity of actually lifting the valve off the seat.

If you try to run too tight a lash on a cam with a quiet-ening ramp, the valves will come off the seats (just a little, but enough to bleed off compression ) too soon, and you will loose power...that's prob. what Hobbsy noted?
Old 05-28-2007, 04:24 PM
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Yep that's what I meant!

I have the lash on my 100 set to where they wiggle when you grab them and it's a real tight fit on the feeler guage when you put it in.

I may open it up a bit, but it seems to be running great like this so far.

---------------------------------

Anyone tried a Xoar 15x6 on the 100? I have two coming. I wanted something lighter than the APC props without giving up the thrust, and that rules out the Pro Zingers in my opinion. Never been happy with how they fly. The Xoars have an incredible reputation in the 20"+ range, so I'm hoping it works out the same in the 15" range.


ORIGINAL: proptop

RVM...you mean .0015 don't ya?

Some Saitos have a quietening (sp?) ramp before the cam lobe...it is just a sort of lead in into the main lobe of the cam...it takes up the lash before the major activity of actually lifting the valve off the seat.

If you try to run too tight a lash on a cam with a quiet-ening ramp, the valves will come off the seats (just a little, but enough to bleed off compression ) too soon, and you will loose power...that's prob. what Hobbsy noted?
Old 05-28-2007, 06:18 PM
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Saito story time.
I decided to re-engine my RCM 40 to put some time on my new Saito .62s before I put them on a H9 Dual Ace. I took my old 1994 Saito .56 off and bolted in the 1st Saito .62 which I had just ran for about 45 minutes on the test stand mere moments earlier. When I started the .62 it ran very rich, really rich, no amount of leaning the HS needle would change it. To make a long story short, the stock RCM tank had split and was shooting a spray of fuel right at the velocity stack. Whoda thunk it.
Old 05-28-2007, 06:32 PM
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I bet that was messy!


ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Saito story time.
I decided to re-engine my RCM 40 to put some time on my new Saito .62s before I put them on a H9 Dual Ace. I took my old 1994 Saito .56 off and bolted in the 1st Saito .62 which I had just ran for about 45 minutes on the test stand mere moments earlier. When I started the .62 it ran very rich, really rich, no amount of leaning the HS needle would change it. To make a long story short, the stock RCM tank had split and was shooting a spray of fuel right at the velocity stack. Whoda thunk it.
Old 05-28-2007, 11:11 PM
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At least you got to burn the fuel instead of sopping it all out of the bottom of the plane. 8*)

RVM- I would trust a feeler gauge more than I would wrappers.... and a good set of feeler guages are probably cheaper than a pack of cigarettes nowadays.
Old 05-28-2007, 11:25 PM
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haha yeah probably so!

Does anyone know where to get a set of feeler gauges in the sizes we use?

ORIGINAL: blw

RVM- I would trust a feeler gauge more than I would wrappers.... and a good set of feeler guages are probably cheaper than a pack of cigarettes nowadays.
Old 05-28-2007, 11:32 PM
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I think I got mine at Sear's.
Old 05-28-2007, 11:47 PM
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Hey Guys,

quick question can my FA-82 be run with muffler pressure?I tried running it with a three line setup that I read about in RC Fly magazine,but it would'nt start/run.Every time I tried to start it fuel would pour out of the carb.After trying to start it a couple of times I pulled the pressure line off the muffler,and fuel shot out like a firehose!What am I doing wrong?I put the lines back to a two line system and she ran fine.Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance. Jim

Club Saito Member#509

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