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#51
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Thanks for clarifying it Bill... Always an education reading your posts
FYI the early .72 also had a very weak (plastic) backplate on it also... The replacement I bought for it was much sturdier and has yet to break... They keep changing these dang mufflers and it is hard to get the earlier replacements... To use the latest ones (cast) requires a new cowl on a few of my planes... Kind of frustrating..

#52
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[b]IronCross:
Sorry, intended to include this last time.
The 10mm thread is a few thousandths of an inch larger than 3/8", the 12mm is a hair smaller than 1/2", and the 14mm is 9/16" diameter. Hope this helps your ID of the pipes.
Bill.
PS: Thanks for the kind words. wr.
EDIT: And the plastic back plates do not help to keep the intake pipes held firmly. The later ones are better, but the pipes are still prone to vibrate and destroy the upper seal. wr.
Sorry, intended to include this last time.
The 10mm thread is a few thousandths of an inch larger than 3/8", the 12mm is a hair smaller than 1/2", and the 14mm is 9/16" diameter. Hope this helps your ID of the pipes.
Bill.
PS: Thanks for the kind words. wr.
EDIT: And the plastic back plates do not help to keep the intake pipes held firmly. The later ones are better, but the pipes are still prone to vibrate and destroy the upper seal. wr.
#53
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Is anyone running a .82 with 30% heli fuel and what prop are you using?....i have a UCD .46 propped with a 14wx4 on 15% COOLPOWER and i was wondering what prop to use with 30%
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ORIGINAL: tukkus
Is anyone running a .82 with 30% heli fuel and what prop are you using?....i have a UCD .46 propped with a 14wx4 on 15% COOLPOWER and i was wondering what prop to use with 30%
Is anyone running a .82 with 30% heli fuel and what prop are you using?....i have a UCD .46 propped with a 14wx4 on 15% COOLPOWER and i was wondering what prop to use with 30%
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3311178/tm.htm
I recommend APC 14x6.
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ORIGINAL: hobbsy
Sean, that is about 1,100 rpm faster than my .82 gets on 10% WildCat and an APC 14x6, you done good.
Sean, that is about 1,100 rpm faster than my .82 gets on 10% WildCat and an APC 14x6, you done good.
I think using low nitro on Saito is like putting a stock muffler on a 2 stroke: getting less power for your $.
#58

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Just added another Saito to my flock, herd, covey, whatever; a FA-91S. One question: it's called Special (the "S" after .91). What's special about it? I don't see that designation after any of the other models. It's not made of gold, there's no supercharger, it doesn't have anything on it the other Saitos don't have; so, what's special?
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[b]The "S" versions usually have hotter cams, more peak power, and worse idle than the older ones.
Saito claims they idle as well as the older ones, that has not been my experience.
Bill.
Saito claims they idle as well as the older ones, that has not been my experience.
Bill.
#60

Bill, great info as usual. Thanks! Now..... which type of silicone for the intake o-ring.... red? And how do you make a restrictor for your restricted straight pipes???
Thanks again,
Ernie
Thanks again,
Ernie
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[b]Ernie:
I normally uise the plain blue RTV for a couplle reasons. One, it's the most common and easiest to find, and two (the main one) it's the least expensive and I'm cheap.
Two ways to form a restrictor in an exhaust pipe that wont come loose and fall off. Put a steel bar in a heavy vise, sized about 1/2 the diameter of the pipe. Then use the bar as a mandrel and using a hammer, just peen the end while turning the pipe on the mandrel.
The second way, if you have full access to the pipe all around, is using a tubing cutter with a very dull cutting wheel. Instead of cutting the pipe the wheen will bend a circumfrential groove in the pipe. When it's as far in as you want it you can cut the pipe normally at the outlet end of the groove, or right in the bottom of the groove.
I'm working up a post/thread about making inlet stacks for any engine, not just Saito, I show the peening with a mandrel there. If it's unclear here, and you can't wait, I'll post on it here.
Bill.
I normally uise the plain blue RTV for a couplle reasons. One, it's the most common and easiest to find, and two (the main one) it's the least expensive and I'm cheap.
Two ways to form a restrictor in an exhaust pipe that wont come loose and fall off. Put a steel bar in a heavy vise, sized about 1/2 the diameter of the pipe. Then use the bar as a mandrel and using a hammer, just peen the end while turning the pipe on the mandrel.
The second way, if you have full access to the pipe all around, is using a tubing cutter with a very dull cutting wheel. Instead of cutting the pipe the wheen will bend a circumfrential groove in the pipe. When it's as far in as you want it you can cut the pipe normally at the outlet end of the groove, or right in the bottom of the groove.
I'm working up a post/thread about making inlet stacks for any engine, not just Saito, I show the peening with a mandrel there. If it's unclear here, and you can't wait, I'll post on it here.
Bill.
#62

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ORIGINAL: William Robison
[b]The "S" versions usually have hotter cams, more peak power, and worse idle than the older ones.
Saito claims they idle as well as the older ones, that has not been my experience.
Bill.
[b]The "S" versions usually have hotter cams, more peak power, and worse idle than the older ones.
Saito claims they idle as well as the older ones, that has not been my experience.
Bill.
How do you reckon this is gonna affect power delivery for a DR-1 (Great Planes). Obviously, this engine won't be spinning at top rpm very much, planning on a prop in the 15-5 to 16-5 range, depending on what rpms I can turn the larger prop. If I can't get more than 9000 with the bigger one, I'll drop down an inch. Not that I want a lot of top end, but I tend to size my props by how much rpm I can get. If this thing doesn't make much midrange, maybe I need to rethink using this engine for the Fokker.
#63
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[b]KHodges:
It's a relative thing. The "S" engines still have good mid range, and throttle well. And at the top end, there is more power to be had.
But my old ABC FA-120 engines, the low cam ones, idle nicely at 1700-1800 rpm with a MAS 14x8 three blade prop. The FA-120S, while it will spin more prop, is a bear to get under 2200 rpm at idle. Still idles well, just wont do it as slowly.
The "Middle" production, with the AAC cylinders and the low cams, removed the weight penalty that Saito used to have, if you can find one that might be for you if you have to have the low idle.
ABC and AAC. How to tell them apart. Easy. If you have one in each hand there's about 5-6 ounces more weight with the ABC. Looking at the cam box, the larger fins on the ABC wont let you pull the cam without pulling the cylinder first. The smaller fins on the AAC give enough room to pull the cam out with the cylinder in place.
In any case, if you buy new don't be afraid of the "S" engines - they will do the job very well.
Bill.
PS: Attached picture is two FA-120 cylinders. ABC on the left, AAC on the right. Difference in size hits you right in the eye. Please note the AAC in this case is the early FA-120S with the pipe intake rather than the cast. Otherwise interchangeable. wr.
It's a relative thing. The "S" engines still have good mid range, and throttle well. And at the top end, there is more power to be had.
But my old ABC FA-120 engines, the low cam ones, idle nicely at 1700-1800 rpm with a MAS 14x8 three blade prop. The FA-120S, while it will spin more prop, is a bear to get under 2200 rpm at idle. Still idles well, just wont do it as slowly.
The "Middle" production, with the AAC cylinders and the low cams, removed the weight penalty that Saito used to have, if you can find one that might be for you if you have to have the low idle.
ABC and AAC. How to tell them apart. Easy. If you have one in each hand there's about 5-6 ounces more weight with the ABC. Looking at the cam box, the larger fins on the ABC wont let you pull the cam without pulling the cylinder first. The smaller fins on the AAC give enough room to pull the cam out with the cylinder in place.
In any case, if you buy new don't be afraid of the "S" engines - they will do the job very well.
Bill.
PS: Attached picture is two FA-120 cylinders. ABC on the left, AAC on the right. Difference in size hits you right in the eye. Please note the AAC in this case is the early FA-120S with the pipe intake rather than the cast. Otherwise interchangeable. wr.
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Crewdog (04-19-2020)
#67
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Just one. A real purdy 91 that I could not resist. I agree with a previous post, once you have one you want more more more. Way better looking than my Magnum 91 FS or OS 70s (2) or 91.
Eric
Eric
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Uhhhhhh......does having one on order qualify a person for membership......Graupner J-3 arrived this morning, and I just got off the phone with Cheif, FA56 is on the way, $27.05 CHEAPER than LHS, and that includes the freight too.
So anyway.....FA56 owner-in -waiting here.....
So anyway.....FA56 owner-in -waiting here.....
#70

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Search/D...&OverallCatID=
horrizon hobbies carries saitos copy and paste link above.
horrizon hobbies carries saitos copy and paste link above.
#74

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ORIGINAL: William Robison
[b]KHodges:
If you have one in each hand
[b]KHodges:
If you have one in each hand

I'd like to see Saito come out with a seven cylinder radial, maybe a 2.80 or 3.92, using the .40 or .56 top ends. Gotta compete with those Seidels and Technopowers!!
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Hi Guys.
Love em to bits, at the moment have, 40a,50,56,72,91x2 (my favorites) and 180 which is in the Flair Giles 202 140 (CMP in the states I think), pictured here.
Cheers
Love em to bits, at the moment have, 40a,50,56,72,91x2 (my favorites) and 180 which is in the Flair Giles 202 140 (CMP in the states I think), pictured here.
Cheers
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Crewdog (04-19-2020)