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#7501
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according to the horizon hobby website, the shaft size is 7mmx1mm. i would use a spinner either 2 1/4" or 2 1/2". the great planes aluminum back plate is a good choice.
go to horizon's website to ge the spec's on any satio.
jon
go to horizon's website to ge the spec's on any satio.
jon
#7502
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Location: detroit, ME,
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ORIGINAL: jb86
according to the horizon hobby website, the shaft size is 7mmx1mm. i would use a spinner either 2 1/4" or 2 1/2". the great planes aluminum back plate is a good choice.
go to horizon's website to ge the spec's on any satio.
jon
according to the horizon hobby website, the shaft size is 7mmx1mm. i would use a spinner either 2 1/4" or 2 1/2". the great planes aluminum back plate is a good choice.
go to horizon's website to ge the spec's on any satio.
jon
Thanks for the reply. Horizon does have the info I need. However the Great Planes spinner does not have a 7mm adapter.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK232&P=ML
#7503

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Great Planes has a plastic spinner with an aluminum backplate. I use those on most engines now. I drill out the backplate for the correct crankshaft size, and dremel out the spinner to enlarge the prop holes if needed.
Hobbsy uses Kavan backplate-less spinners from Hobby Lobby. They look good and I'm going to try one.
Spinner size is usually related to the size of your cowl or cheeks on the model.
Hobbsy uses Kavan backplate-less spinners from Hobby Lobby. They look good and I'm going to try one.
Spinner size is usually related to the size of your cowl or cheeks on the model.
#7504
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ORIGINAL: blw
Great Planes has a plastic spinner with an aluminum backplate. I use those on most engines now. I drill out the backplate for the correct crankshaft size, and dremel out the spinner to enlarge the prop holes if needed.
Hobbsy uses Kavan backplate-less spinners from Hobby Lobby. They look good and I'm going to try one.
Spinner size is usually related to the size of your cowl or cheeks on the model.
Great Planes has a plastic spinner with an aluminum backplate. I use those on most engines now. I drill out the backplate for the correct crankshaft size, and dremel out the spinner to enlarge the prop holes if needed.
Hobbsy uses Kavan backplate-less spinners from Hobby Lobby. They look good and I'm going to try one.
Spinner size is usually related to the size of your cowl or cheeks on the model.
Thanks, I found them on Tower. I just thought that they had to be all aluminum.
#7505

anyone in the market for a 100 might check this out......$249
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detai...p?ID=200485416
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detai...p?ID=200485416
#7506

>>> Hi all, I have a FA-62A comming from Horizon and I ordered a Velocity Stack. My question is what did you use to seal the gap between the stack and the carb ? If it's a O-Ring where did you purchase it. >>>
Totally crazy that the stack does't come with an o-ring. Tim is right, if you take the carb in to a local supplier you can find one that fits in the groove easily. Somewhere here I've seen the exact measurements.
Ernie
Totally crazy that the stack does't come with an o-ring. Tim is right, if you take the carb in to a local supplier you can find one that fits in the groove easily. Somewhere here I've seen the exact measurements.
Ernie
#7508
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Location: Kirkby Stephen, UNITED KINGDOM
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Re O ring for velocity stack, I found a piece of silicone tube the correct diameter and sliced a couple of mm of it. Perfect fit and parallel inner face.
Dave :^)
Dave :^)
#7511
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i have a .72 i bought used. i gave it a looking over before doing anything. i found the backplate to be loose. i took off the backplate and valve covers, inspected, all clean inside, put a few drops of air tool oil in it. i ran it. seemed that when i opened the HS at WOT it would run down to about 7,000 rpm, but not lower, no matter how much i opened the needle. is it possible that the intake manifold is leaking at the cylinder head? everything looks good on the motor. any ideas? it runs great, and the HS will adjust fine, just won't richen as much as it should.
jon
jon
#7515

With some of the Saitos, the relationship between the high and low speed needles is all important. For example if the low end needle is too far in, it affects the ability of the high speed needle to ever get rich enough.
Try backing the low speed needle out some, reset the high speed needle (and see if it won't richen up more), and then reset the low speed needle.
Ernie
Try backing the low speed needle out some, reset the high speed needle (and see if it won't richen up more), and then reset the low speed needle.
Ernie
#7517

Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Central California,
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Hey all,I don't mean to hijack this thread,but does anyone know where I can find a soft mount for a Saito FA-2.20.I'm building a Kange UPF-7 Waco for a friend,and it seems like a regular engine mount would let this engine beat the airframe to death.Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.Jim Club Saito #509
Thanks in advance.Jim Club Saito #509
#7518

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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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The 2.20 will not shake your Waco if you get the needles set correctly. Try Davis Diesel, he has some soft mounts that you can adjust how firm or soft you want them.
#7519

My Feedback: (16)

Last week I was at BLW's house and he was putting bearings in a Saito 80. The engine was only about 4 years old and the owner had too many engines for it to be used a whole lot.
There was absolutely no rust in the engine (The owner uses Omega with 2 oz of caster/gal added) but the cage of the rear bearing had destroyed itself inside the shields. Little metal parts were shining all in the engine but no damage to the cam or piston/cylinder wall. It was a particularly hard engine to change the bearings in because the case was tight on the bearings but he finally resorted to the oven and they came out. There was slight damage to the bottom of the rod and inside the case where they had hit due to the bad bearing but he cleaned the mess up up and washed every thing in detergent and then oiled the parts. The new bearings came from the local industrial supply store in town and cost $11.40 plus tax. The new bearings went in just as hard as it was to get the old ones out.
Barry set the valves and ran the engine on the test bench at the owner's house. The engine seemed just fine. The owner was pleased.
While in the area I went to another guys house who had a old model Saito 72 that had never been run. When he started to run the engine, it seized up. When disassembled, the rod had frozen onto the crankshaft. After some struggle we got the rod off the crank and naturally it was galled in the big end. I worked with the rod with clean oil and a rag putting it on the crank pin and twisting until it seemed to be free enough to run. We ran it for a couple hours on the back porch railing and it seemed to be fine. I got the engine running without having to wait for a new rod. The moral to this story is that you should not buy an engine and let it set around for 7 years before you run it. The warrentee expired about 4 years ago.
There was absolutely no rust in the engine (The owner uses Omega with 2 oz of caster/gal added) but the cage of the rear bearing had destroyed itself inside the shields. Little metal parts were shining all in the engine but no damage to the cam or piston/cylinder wall. It was a particularly hard engine to change the bearings in because the case was tight on the bearings but he finally resorted to the oven and they came out. There was slight damage to the bottom of the rod and inside the case where they had hit due to the bad bearing but he cleaned the mess up up and washed every thing in detergent and then oiled the parts. The new bearings came from the local industrial supply store in town and cost $11.40 plus tax. The new bearings went in just as hard as it was to get the old ones out.
Barry set the valves and ran the engine on the test bench at the owner's house. The engine seemed just fine. The owner was pleased.
While in the area I went to another guys house who had a old model Saito 72 that had never been run. When he started to run the engine, it seized up. When disassembled, the rod had frozen onto the crankshaft. After some struggle we got the rod off the crank and naturally it was galled in the big end. I worked with the rod with clean oil and a rag putting it on the crank pin and twisting until it seemed to be free enough to run. We ran it for a couple hours on the back porch railing and it seemed to be fine. I got the engine running without having to wait for a new rod. The moral to this story is that you should not buy an engine and let it set around for 7 years before you run it. The warrentee expired about 4 years ago.
#7521

I received my FA-62AGK from Horizon today and it came with a Velocity Stack installed, I didn't think it would. Anyway, now I have an extra stack. Engine looks real nice can't wait to try it out.
Jim R
Jim R
#7522

My Feedback: (16)

This is a large hobby shop in North Canton, Ohio that repairs engines
http://www.aerotechhobbies.com/
This guy will also repair yor engine. He has an excellent reputation
Frank C Bowman
1211 N Allen Ave
Farmington, NM 87401-3568
505-327-0696
[email protected]
Bill Jensen
51 Hillside Dr.
Beacon Falls, CT 06403
203 888 4819
[email protected]
www.bj-model-engines.com
http://www.aerotechhobbies.com/
This guy will also repair yor engine. He has an excellent reputation
Frank C Bowman
1211 N Allen Ave
Farmington, NM 87401-3568
505-327-0696
[email protected]
Bill Jensen
51 Hillside Dr.
Beacon Falls, CT 06403
203 888 4819
[email protected]
www.bj-model-engines.com
#7523
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Hello. I've got myself a new 82 on my f40. It's my first saito and I've got a few questions. I have two YS' and use the YS 20/20 fuel. Can I use it in my new Saito? It's never been run yet. Here's how it's plummed up. I've got three tubes coming out of the tank. One for the carb, one vent for the muffler and one thats going to another clunk via a fuel dot for fueling/defueling. Will there be any problems with that setup? The other fitting on the engine is for crank case venting? Do you all check valve clearance after the first hour as per instructions? I'm gonna use a 14X4w prop. Is that ok for breakin? Maybe more but thats all I can think of right now.