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what do i need to hook up a smoke system to a saito fa 50. I would like to get the stuff from towerhobbies.com. the main thing a need to know is what exhaust do i need.

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The Saito 50 is not big enough to make enough heat to vaporize enough smoke to please you. Also the engine is not big enough to over come the burden of extra weight of the smoke oil, tank, pump, and special muffler.
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ORIGINAL: Old Fart
What engine do you guys think sounds closest to scale on flyby for a mark five or nine spitfire around 90inches?
What engine do you guys think sounds closest to scale on flyby for a mark five or nine spitfire around 90inches?
Although not a Saito, I particularly like the sound of a RCV CD engines. They require more run-in time and are a bit more fussy at first, but they sound less like other 4-stroke glow engines and a bit like a small 4-stroke gas engine, but I don't think anything in their inventory would haul a 90" ws plane.
That leads me to suggesting Saito's G-36. I've not seen this engine running, but being a 4-stroke, surely it doesn't sound like a weed-eater engine.

ORIGINAL: 5487
I just picked up a NIB open-rockered Saito 40 off eBay but it didn't include a manual. I do have a manual for a current-production Saito 40a but I understand that the two engines are worlds apart. Can someone tell me the prop range that will work on this engine? Also, can I use the 40a's break-in instructions or were the older Saitos broken in differently?
And might one of you have a manual for this engine that could be scanned or photocopied?
Many thanks,
Harvey
I just picked up a NIB open-rockered Saito 40 off eBay but it didn't include a manual. I do have a manual for a current-production Saito 40a but I understand that the two engines are worlds apart. Can someone tell me the prop range that will work on this engine? Also, can I use the 40a's break-in instructions or were the older Saitos broken in differently?
And might one of you have a manual for this engine that could be scanned or photocopied?
Many thanks,
Harvey

broke in the new 100 this morning using an APC 14 x 8 and using Hobbsy's method
my end results are 1800 RPM idle and 9200 WOT
this sound about right?
my end results are 1800 RPM idle and 9200 WOT
this sound about right?
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I just got a used 150 i think, how can you tell? only markings I could find is the HH on the bottom. I have a 56 , 65 , and 2 100's , they are marked this one is not.

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The 150 had a stick-on label on the side that said "150" It probably fell off
The only way to tell is to measure the overall height.
The 120S is 132 mm high
The 150S is 134 mm high
The only way to tell is to measure the overall height.
The 120S is 132 mm high
The 150S is 134 mm high
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I'm with you, Jim.
While I wish that glow engines could produce great smoke, they simply do not. Someone is going to have to become innovative and figure out how to employ a separate heat source in order to generate the heat necessary for good smoke production. I've often wondered if there was some kind of catalyst that could help too, thus relieving some of the burden from an electric source. Maybe even the mixing of two not so harmful chemicals in a reactor chamber.
Let's see, methyl alcohol and hydrogen peroxide - it might also contribute to the model's thrust production as well. <G>
Ed Cregger
While I wish that glow engines could produce great smoke, they simply do not. Someone is going to have to become innovative and figure out how to employ a separate heat source in order to generate the heat necessary for good smoke production. I've often wondered if there was some kind of catalyst that could help too, thus relieving some of the burden from an electric source. Maybe even the mixing of two not so harmful chemicals in a reactor chamber.
Let's see, methyl alcohol and hydrogen peroxide - it might also contribute to the model's thrust production as well. <G>
Ed Cregger
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Jim,
Thanks for the corrected numbers on the prop size on your 180. 16X8 is the size I'm currently using to break in my 180. I'm thinking the 10,000 plus RPM I saw the other day had to be an error with the tach I was using. Ive got a better one (hopefully) coming and maybe I can get some figures to compare with what you're seeing on yours. BTW the prop I have right now is a Master Airscrew.
Ron
Thanks for the corrected numbers on the prop size on your 180. 16X8 is the size I'm currently using to break in my 180. I'm thinking the 10,000 plus RPM I saw the other day had to be an error with the tach I was using. Ive got a better one (hopefully) coming and maybe I can get some figures to compare with what you're seeing on yours. BTW the prop I have right now is a Master Airscrew.
Ron

RPMcK,
I have used the MA 16x8 as well. You will see a little difference in rpm but it will be close. My numbers also included the installation of the TurboHeader, so take that into consideration when comparing numbers. The 16x8 is a good prop for this engine. I am considering trying a 15x10 for comparison. I would like to see the difference on my warbird.
Jim
I have used the MA 16x8 as well. You will see a little difference in rpm but it will be close. My numbers also included the installation of the TurboHeader, so take that into consideration when comparing numbers. The 16x8 is a good prop for this engine. I am considering trying a 15x10 for comparison. I would like to see the difference on my warbird.
Jim
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Jim
The TurboHeader won't be an issue when comparing numbers with you. I'm running one too! The only problem with that is, I've never ran mine with the stock muffler - so I can't compair it to the TurboHeader. And I don't care enough to change back just to see
BTW what do you sue to clean yours with?
Ron
The TurboHeader won't be an issue when comparing numbers with you. I'm running one too! The only problem with that is, I've never ran mine with the stock muffler - so I can't compair it to the TurboHeader. And I don't care enough to change back just to see

Ron

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Hi All,
This is a great thread, I have learned a lot.[sm=49_49.gif]
I don’t mean to get off the subject of this thread…I’m asking this here because I can see that most of you have a lot of experience with model planes and wanted to get some reliable feed back.
What do you find is the best technique for taking out wrinkles in plastic covering…monokote, etc?
I have a GP Super Stearman, when I bought it it had very few wrinkles. I left it in storage for a few months before starting on it and by then it was wrinkle city. [sm=confused.gif] All together I must have spent over 10 hours straightening it out. [sm=crying.gif] I used both iron and blower, both made for covering.
Most planes (ARF’s) look good in the box but when the sun hits them well like I said wrinkle city. What I have been doing now is right out of the box I strategically put pin holes in the covering then slowly iron all the covering. Then I let it sit in the sun for a few hours then iron out any wrinkles that come out.
What do you think or can you point me to a good thread dealing with wrinkles? [sm=idea.gif]
Thanks,
Shubova
[8D]
This is a great thread, I have learned a lot.[sm=49_49.gif]
I don’t mean to get off the subject of this thread…I’m asking this here because I can see that most of you have a lot of experience with model planes and wanted to get some reliable feed back.
What do you find is the best technique for taking out wrinkles in plastic covering…monokote, etc?
I have a GP Super Stearman, when I bought it it had very few wrinkles. I left it in storage for a few months before starting on it and by then it was wrinkle city. [sm=confused.gif] All together I must have spent over 10 hours straightening it out. [sm=crying.gif] I used both iron and blower, both made for covering.
Most planes (ARF’s) look good in the box but when the sun hits them well like I said wrinkle city. What I have been doing now is right out of the box I strategically put pin holes in the covering then slowly iron all the covering. Then I let it sit in the sun for a few hours then iron out any wrinkles that come out.
What do you think or can you point me to a good thread dealing with wrinkles? [sm=idea.gif]
Thanks,
Shubova
[8D]

go to the ARF forum and do a search for "Removing wrinkles from covering"
PS there's no easy way to remove them .
Unless you want to throw the thing in a pizza oven set to around 300 degrees
PS there's no easy way to remove them .
Unless you want to throw the thing in a pizza oven set to around 300 degrees
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I was wondering why the ‘Welcome to Club Saito’ has 404588 hits and 11571 responses and Club Magnum only had 52537 hits and 1142 responses.
Are Saito engines so unreliable and temperamental that people need lots of support and guidance to keep Saito engines running compared to other engines? Or do Saito owner’s tend to be nervous,insecure people that require lots of support and guidance, compared to people that purchase different brands of engines? Or are the difference in the hit and response levels simply explained by Saito engines out selling Magnum engines by 77 to 1?
One would imagine the old adage, ‘you get what you pay for’ applies and the cheap engines would be causing more problems, grief and frustration for people.
A strange phenomena.
Are Saito engines so unreliable and temperamental that people need lots of support and guidance to keep Saito engines running compared to other engines? Or do Saito owner’s tend to be nervous,insecure people that require lots of support and guidance, compared to people that purchase different brands of engines? Or are the difference in the hit and response levels simply explained by Saito engines out selling Magnum engines by 77 to 1?
One would imagine the old adage, ‘you get what you pay for’ applies and the cheap engines would be causing more problems, grief and frustration for people.
A strange phenomena.
Senior Member

ORIGINAL: davidbegg
I was wondering why the ‘Welcome to Club Saito’ has 404588 hits and 11571 responses and Club Magnum only had 52537 hits and 1142 responses.
Are Saito engines so unreliable and temperamental that people need lots of support and guidance to keep Saito engines running compared to other engines? Or do Saito owner’s tend to be nervous,insecure people that require lots of support and guidance, compared to people that purchase different brands of engines? Or are the difference in the hit and response levels simply explained by Saito engines out selling Magnum engines by 77 to 1?
One would imagine the old adage, ‘you get what you pay for’ applies and the cheap engines would be causing more problems, grief and frustration for people.
A strange phenomena.
I was wondering why the ‘Welcome to Club Saito’ has 404588 hits and 11571 responses and Club Magnum only had 52537 hits and 1142 responses.
Are Saito engines so unreliable and temperamental that people need lots of support and guidance to keep Saito engines running compared to other engines? Or do Saito owner’s tend to be nervous,insecure people that require lots of support and guidance, compared to people that purchase different brands of engines? Or are the difference in the hit and response levels simply explained by Saito engines out selling Magnum engines by 77 to 1?
One would imagine the old adage, ‘you get what you pay for’ applies and the cheap engines would be causing more problems, grief and frustration for people.
A strange phenomena.
So how does one rate the Poeche or BMW or Mercedez forums
As upmarket expensivve cars does the same as above apply to these top end cars
Really as a owner of some magnums and a Saito 180 which wasnt a cheap purchase Its excelent to have thread where all possible permutations have been tried so as to extend the life of this high end engine
magnum engines aree not on my list of top end reliable engines but are ok small cheap motors for sports use where unexpected engine quiting and gliding back down for off feild landing are not so severe in smaller planes
My Magnums are cheaper short life engines which are cheaper to buy a new one than buy a new carberator after a crash that breaks the carberator
I don't expect my magnums to do much more than 5 to 10 gallons sizes depending where most modelers I know who have these motors say thats when they need a new liner which often costs more than a new engine but I do expect my Saito to see 50 gallons plus before needing major replacement parts and expect a 100 gallon life at the very least
For my bigger planes I need and will pay extra for reliable engine running as the engine stopping often breaks these larger planes if they do off field landing
Ford car versus Poeche
same thing in my mind Magnums versus Saito
Hopefully the thread keep advancing

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David, I have 18 Saitos and zero TT or Magnum, I had one Magnum .40GP whose entire lifespan was less than 5 minutes and one TT .40 which I traded to a friend for a Fox .60. The crank broke in the intake port on the TT when he started it up, he is a very knowlegeable engine guy. I am a Saito fan as well as a Laser, Enya, OS, Supertigre, MDS, MVVS, Moki, PAW and OPS fan. I ride a Harley and drive a Ford pickup, my wife is a die hard Chevy lover and bought the Harley for me.
People tend to know the most about what they are enthusiastic about, I avoid comments about the TT and M engines beyond what I said above and rarely say that.
People tend to know the most about what they are enthusiastic about, I avoid comments about the TT and M engines beyond what I said above and rarely say that.