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#1276

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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Back home in,
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I got the velocity stack for my Saito 1.00 Friday in the mail.
Ran down to the hardware store and found the right size "O" ring without any trouble.
Got it all mounted.
It looks really cool.
Worth the price of admission just for the looks!

Too bad nobody can see it with the cowl back on the ol' UCD!
Got a chance to run it and fly it yesterday.
I may be going crazy but I had to richen the low and top end just a little.
I would have thought it would have run richer by sucking in the fuel that might have been spit out.
JLK
Ran down to the hardware store and found the right size "O" ring without any trouble.
Got it all mounted.
It looks really cool.
Worth the price of admission just for the looks!

Too bad nobody can see it with the cowl back on the ol' UCD!
Got a chance to run it and fly it yesterday.
I may be going crazy but I had to richen the low and top end just a little.
I would have thought it would have run richer by sucking in the fuel that might have been spit out.
JLK
#1277
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Caribou,
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Been watching the post on the velocity stack, interesting info, gonna order one for my 100 tomorrow, thanks guys.........mstcitabria
Club Saito Member #147
Club Saito Member #147
#1279
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Location: Ocean Reef WA, AUSTRALIA
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ORIGINAL: Thunderchild
Hi Guys,
Would anyone out there have experience with the Great Planes 120 Stearman? I am wondering if the Saito 170R3 will fit under the cowl without any surgery?
Comments on the combination most welcome.
Cheers from the far west of Downunder.
Thunderchild (Saito member #94)
Hi Guys,
Would anyone out there have experience with the Great Planes 120 Stearman? I am wondering if the Saito 170R3 will fit under the cowl without any surgery?
Comments on the combination most welcome.
Cheers from the far west of Downunder.
Thunderchild (Saito member #94)
Anyone care to reply to this earlier post of mine please?
Looking for any guidance/opinion good or bad.
Cheers,
Thunderchild SM #194
"Remember amateurs built the ark, professionals built the Titanic".
#1280

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It appears to be 9 1/4" in dia for the Super Stearman cowl.
The saito appears to be less than 7" in diameter.
I don't have a Stearman or a 170 RS. I was looking up data and deminsions on the web.
One way to tell is that the Super Stearman cowl will clear a OS 120 Supass valve cover. So the Stearman cowl has a diameter that is greater than twice the deminsion of the OS 120 from the bottom of the lugs to the top of the valve cover.
The Saito 170 is made of Saito 56's. So twice the height of a Saito 56 would be the diameter of the engine. Horizon does not have a Saito Multi Cylinder engine manual PDF file posted on their site.
Enjoy,
Jim
The saito appears to be less than 7" in diameter.
I don't have a Stearman or a 170 RS. I was looking up data and deminsions on the web.
One way to tell is that the Super Stearman cowl will clear a OS 120 Supass valve cover. So the Stearman cowl has a diameter that is greater than twice the deminsion of the OS 120 from the bottom of the lugs to the top of the valve cover.
The Saito 170 is made of Saito 56's. So twice the height of a Saito 56 would be the diameter of the engine. Horizon does not have a Saito Multi Cylinder engine manual PDF file posted on their site.
Enjoy,
Jim
#1282
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Location: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
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All:
I have the Saito Radials manual in .pdf if anyone would like a copy - send me a note with your email address - it wont go through RCU.
Bill.
I have the Saito Radials manual in .pdf if anyone would like a copy - send me a note with your email address - it wont go through RCU.
Bill.
#1283
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Sorry, just rechecked. I have the latest versions of the single and twin cylinder manuals, and the manual for the FA-325R5 radial. I have nothing for the three cylinder radials.
Bill.
Bill.
#1285
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Navarre ,
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Hi guys,
I'm new to Saito engines what fuel should I use to break in with? With ABC engines you are to use the same nitro% that you want to run your engine with. Saito engines are ACC engines. What is the diff. in the break in period. Another question is should I run a castor oil or syn. I was reading about castor oil use in four strokes and they talked about carbon build up on the exaust valve and would cause the valve to stick open. You guys know more than me any tips or hints would be huge.
Thanks, Kurt
I'm new to Saito engines what fuel should I use to break in with? With ABC engines you are to use the same nitro% that you want to run your engine with. Saito engines are ACC engines. What is the diff. in the break in period. Another question is should I run a castor oil or syn. I was reading about castor oil use in four strokes and they talked about carbon build up on the exaust valve and would cause the valve to stick open. You guys know more than me any tips or hints would be huge.
Thanks, Kurt
#1287
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Location: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
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Kurt:
I'll try to take these in order, from my opinions and experience.
The nitro percentage isn't really important, just be shre the fuel is clean and fresh.
Saito engines, at least the current ones, are AAC ( not ACC) and as a result, along with a ringed piston, will usually take two hours or more to be fully run in. But you can fly then as soon as they will hold peak, it's just that the idle will keep getting better as the time accrues.
Four stroke engines have high surface and rubbing loads between the cam and the tappets, this makes castor even more important than in the common two stroke engines. No synthetic in a model fuel has the high film strength needed.
My fuel of choice is the Omega, in 15%, for all my engines except the smallest ones.
You're right down the street from me, give a call if you'd like. I'm in the book.
Bill.
I'll try to take these in order, from my opinions and experience.
The nitro percentage isn't really important, just be shre the fuel is clean and fresh.
Saito engines, at least the current ones, are AAC ( not ACC) and as a result, along with a ringed piston, will usually take two hours or more to be fully run in. But you can fly then as soon as they will hold peak, it's just that the idle will keep getting better as the time accrues.
Four stroke engines have high surface and rubbing loads between the cam and the tappets, this makes castor even more important than in the common two stroke engines. No synthetic in a model fuel has the high film strength needed.
My fuel of choice is the Omega, in 15%, for all my engines except the smallest ones.
You're right down the street from me, give a call if you'd like. I'm in the book.
Bill.
#1289

Join Date: May 2005
Location: PARIS, FRANCE
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Hi guys,
Please, could you tell me how do I have to proceed to insert a picture (from my computer) in my message.
I try but I can't achieve.
Thierry

Please, could you tell me how do I have to proceed to insert a picture (from my computer) in my message.
I try but I can't achieve.

Thierry
#1292
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Bill,
I have a new gallon of Morgan Fuel it is called Backyard Basher. It was formulated to run in cars. The fuel has 20%nm & 16%oil it should be ok right. this fuel contains a rust inhibitor and an anti-oxidant for resting engines. It states not to use after run oil which goes against what I think. What is your opinion.
Thanks, Kurt
I have a new gallon of Morgan Fuel it is called Backyard Basher. It was formulated to run in cars. The fuel has 20%nm & 16%oil it should be ok right. this fuel contains a rust inhibitor and an anti-oxidant for resting engines. It states not to use after run oil which goes against what I think. What is your opinion.
Thanks, Kurt
#1294
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Kurt:
The 20% nitro is ok, but in my opinion it's more than is needed. When you add four ounces of castor oil to the gallon of 16% oil it will be fine for your saito.
It is also safe to ignore the instruction not to use after run oil. No engine has ever been damaged by using after run oil, but many have been damaged by not using it. Your choice.
Yes to Holly Field.
Bill.
The 20% nitro is ok, but in my opinion it's more than is needed. When you add four ounces of castor oil to the gallon of 16% oil it will be fine for your saito.
It is also safe to ignore the instruction not to use after run oil. No engine has ever been damaged by using after run oil, but many have been damaged by not using it. Your choice.
Yes to Holly Field.
Bill.
#1295
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ocean Reef WA, AUSTRALIA
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Hi William and fellow saitoists.
You would not believe the drama I am having trying to acquire these SAI50GK93 velocity stacks. There is only one national distributor here in "The Land Downunder" that our hobby shops can deal with and they do not have the damn things in stock..............not likely to this side of hell freezing over either!! [:@][:@]
I can see the wonderful little thing in pictures on the horizon website, but again alas for me, it looks like they do not sell outside the Nth American mainland and dependencies.
I emailed them to ask if they can deal with me, but as yet, no reply.
If any of you can recommend an American website I might try that will sell to non-citizens on the opposite side of the globe please HELP!!!!
Thanks
A very frustrated Thunderchild
You would not believe the drama I am having trying to acquire these SAI50GK93 velocity stacks. There is only one national distributor here in "The Land Downunder" that our hobby shops can deal with and they do not have the damn things in stock..............not likely to this side of hell freezing over either!! [:@][:@]
I can see the wonderful little thing in pictures on the horizon website, but again alas for me, it looks like they do not sell outside the Nth American mainland and dependencies.
I emailed them to ask if they can deal with me, but as yet, no reply.
If any of you can recommend an American website I might try that will sell to non-citizens on the opposite side of the globe please HELP!!!!
Thanks
A very frustrated Thunderchild
#1296

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This came up a couple weeks ago about puchasing an engine with the same countries involved.
One thing that did come up is that some of the dealers were willing but the big brother couldn't do it.
Try some of the dealers that sell this brand....
Enjoy,
Jim
One thing that did come up is that some of the dealers were willing but the big brother couldn't do it.
Try some of the dealers that sell this brand....
Enjoy,
Jim
#1297
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Thanks w8ye, I'll keep trying.
On another subject:
Can anyone (William perhaps?) give me specs on the FA270T please?
I am particularly interested in date of manufacturer (circa will do) weight, HP and dimensions (yes you guessed, I have a clapped out OS four stroke that needs retiring and well you know the rest!!) that might help me decide if this is a worthwhile investment.
Oh, any known vices would be helpful too please.
Thanks in advance
Thunderchild
On another subject:
Can anyone (William perhaps?) give me specs on the FA270T please?
I am particularly interested in date of manufacturer (circa will do) weight, HP and dimensions (yes you guessed, I have a clapped out OS four stroke that needs retiring and well you know the rest!!) that might help me decide if this is a worthwhile investment.
Oh, any known vices would be helpful too please.
Thanks in advance
Thunderchild

#1298

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Try this guy for the venturi and see if he will send it to you. He's well known in the South East US. Has a big hobby shop and does a lot of business, I know for a fact that he doesn't have the part in the store because I've been there recently and looked at his saito parts. But he can order it. He does a lot of business, I'm sure he has orders going in very often.
Email him.... [email protected]
http://h1070264.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...prod=SAI50GK93
Enjoy,
Jim
Email him.... [email protected]
http://h1070264.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...prod=SAI50GK93
Enjoy,
Jim
#1299
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Need Tech assist - I have a Saito 56 with about 5 hours on the clock. It has been running very well until recently. For most of its life it has been fed YS 2&4 20/20 and has not gained any weight =- ok , not funny. Following a recent in flight shutdown the engine began operating erratically and was non responsive to high side needle valve adjustments. I removed the carb and performed a standard disassembly and cleaning finding debris in the needle valve tube. I assumed that this was the source of the problem. While in maintenance I checked and adjusted the valve clearances. I then started the engine and did a low side adjustment establishing a smooth idle at around 2600 rpm. In attempting to adjust the high side a problem developed: the engine refuses to accept any adjustment that would result in a smooth transition to increased throttle. We can achieve rapid transition however, when advancing the throttle slowly and steadily the engine begins to 'hunt' (learned that one in the Navy) at about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and will not settle. Further throttle advancement results in a stall. In addition, it is still virtually non responsive to needle valve adjustments. Any thoughts on this issue would be welcome.
Bob
Bob