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Old 12-22-2008, 04:31 PM
  #13226  
VF84sluggo
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Please don't think I was accusing you of anything...not at all. I appreciate the information. I'm just trying to get a handle on this before I go out and mess up a $300 engine, that's all.

There just seems to be a lot of contradictory info: Some like Cool Power, some don't. Same with Omega. I will say the general concensus is that Wildcat Premium Extra is good stuff...wish my LHS had some.

On another note, I again came up empty today in my search for Marvel Mystery AIR TOOL Oil. No sweat finding plain ol' Marvel Mystery Oil.
Old 12-22-2008, 05:00 PM
  #13227  
NM2K
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Wildcat makes Tower Hobbies' fuel, or they did. Surely there is an equivalent formula there somewhere.

Just as you never hear anyone complain about having too much money, knowledgeable modelers never complain of having too much oil or at least a little castor oil in their fuel.


Ed Cregger
Old 12-22-2008, 05:03 PM
  #13228  
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Hobbsy,

I agree. I was hoping to see what it did in that power band with the TH. However, the APC prop won't get it there. Mike was right about the max rpm. If proped for 9500 it could over rev in flight. I am looking for that power band we discussed. It might be out of the normal ranges.

Jim
Old 12-22-2008, 06:07 PM
  #13229  
Rudolph Hart
 
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ORIGINAL: Ed Cregger N2ECW


ORIGINAL: Old Fart

Good point jim,i get scared flicking the 62 backwards and when the 220 arives my field cred is gone




Some fellows just spin the spinner back against compression, keeping their fingers out of the prop arc.

Which 2.20 did you get? The glow or the spark?


Ed Cregger
I bought the glow version.The petrol one is way to heavy for tho i would have preferred it.Off out to the shed to remove the 82 and see where all that air is coming from,carby or backplate.cheers
Old 12-22-2008, 08:20 PM
  #13230  
mike early
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Wildcat makes the fuel for Hobbytown USA, but they don't list the properties of the 18% lubrication, only that its provided by Klotz. So I don't buy it and drive 40 miles for Wildcat Premium Extra. It's cheaper to boot.
Old 12-22-2008, 10:30 PM
  #13231  
JWQ500RC
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Has anyone had problems with air leaks on the 82. I just rebuilt mine and it's sucking air from someplace. I replaced all the o rings and gaskets. I didn't see a gasket on the back plate, should it have one?
Old 12-22-2008, 10:35 PM
  #13232  
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I don't think the 72 and 82 have back plate gaskets.

If you have a air leak that makes the engine run poorly it is the intake manifold or a valve.

you could drill a hole in the back plate and the engine will still run

Your plastic back plate may be warped? the 72 and 82 are bad about this

The warped back plate doesn't always seat the intake manifold well into the head
Old 12-23-2008, 04:23 AM
  #13233  
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ORIGINAL: mike109

G'day The plan is the Airborne one. I am told that the plan has a number of errors but it is possible to correct them in the building. A friend makes short form laser cut kits and his version of the plan is said to be correct.

I did build the small electric that was being sold a couple of years ago and it flew well once I managed to get it off the ground. The UC was very close to the C of G and as a result it would easily tip onto its nose when trying to rise off ground. I moved the wheels forward and she flew really well though the landings were more or less controlled crashes.

Some time this year I may have a go at building from the plan. If I do I will buy Brownie's short form kit. And of course it will have a Saito for making the noise.
Sorry to anoy you again mike but I have a 125 saito just sitting ini ts box looking pretty and I would imagine that would be good to put in it ? The airbourne plan list says its built for a 60 size engine but whether thats a 4 banger or 2 Im not sure. Also on the short form laser cut kit does he sell to the average Joe and what do you get and for how much ?Thanks cheers the pope
Old 12-23-2008, 05:17 AM
  #13234  
Rudolph Hart
 
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No gaskets or o rings on the backplate jim and i've worked with plastics for years.That stuff is top quality.

Will attach a pic of the fuse and have a question.Can i mount two 12oz tanks fore and aft of the spar and the 220 draw evenly from both or pump the rear tank towards the front one? cheers guys
Old 12-23-2008, 06:49 AM
  #13235  
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ORIGINAL: VF84sluggo

Please don't think I was accusing you of anything...not at all. I appreciate the information. I'm just trying to get a handle on this before I go out and mess up a $300 engine, that's all.

There just seems to be a lot of contradictory info: Some like Cool Power, some don't. Same with Omega. I will say the general concensus is that Wildcat Premium Extra is good stuff...wish my LHS had some.

On another note, I again came up empty today in my search for Marvel Mystery AIR TOOL Oil. No sweat finding plain ol' Marvel Mystery Oil.

-


No problem Sluggo. I just didn't want the folks at Morgans ticked at me, that's all.


Ed Cregger
Old 12-23-2008, 07:25 AM
  #13236  
Garthwood
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Ed Cregger..........I have never heard that there was Marvel Mystery Air Tool Oil, just plain Marvel Mystery . I mix Marvel Mystery with Air Tool Oil 50/50.
That should work out. I've been doing that with all my Saitos for the past 6 years. I've had no problems. You can also use ATF, if it works on something like a refined auto transmission it should do the same job on these engines. I've used ATF too. Every one has his own methods and as long as they work "who cares !". About glow fuel every one has his/her opinion, the bottom line, "is it doing its job ?". Myself I just stick to the engine manufacturer's recommendations what fuel to use and maintenance, if something goes wrong, then I have somebody to chase.
I have seen guys adjusting their engines every time they do a ten minute flight, they will squeeze out and lean out so they'll get that extra rpm. Idiots (My opnion). The kind one wishes not to get in an argument with, as they know it all. They are the ones that most of the time have major problems.

I say, relax. Life is short. Say nothing and do your thing and nobody gets hurt.
Old 12-23-2008, 08:35 AM
  #13237  
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OF, I would suggest a Cline or IronBay regulator and you set the tanks on both sides of the tail if you wish.
Old 12-23-2008, 08:40 AM
  #13238  
NM2K
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ORIGINAL: Garthwood

Ed Cregger..........I have never heard that there was Marvel Mystery Air Tool Oil, just plain Marvel Mystery . I mix Marvel Mystery with Air Tool Oil 50/50.
That should work out. I've been doing that with all my Saitos for the past 6 years. I've had no problems. You can also use ATF, if it works on something like a refined auto transmission it should do the same job on these engines. I've used ATF too. Every one has his own methods and as long as they work "who cares !". About glow fuel every one has his/her opinion, the bottom line, "is it doing its job ?". Myself I just stick to the engine manufacturer's recommendations what fuel to use and maintenance, if something goes wrong, then I have somebody to chase.
I have seen guys adjusting their engines every time they do a ten minute flight, they will squeeze out and lean out so they'll get that extra rpm. Idiots (My opnion). The kind one wishes not to get in an argument with, as they know it all. They are the ones that most of the time have major problems.

I say, relax. Life is short. Say nothing and do your thing and nobody gets hurt.


Hi, Garth.

Marvel does sell an air tool oil and I have been using it for a couple of decades now. If I put the word "Mystery" in there, it was a mistake. I don't mix anything else with it and it does just fine as is.

I adjust my engine every time I think it needs it, but I'm usually backing away from lean. If the engine won't do the job while running slightly rich, it gets replaced with a stronger engine. Ditto with nitro. If the engine won't do the job with the nitro amount that I choose to run, the engine is replaced with one that will. I would rather invest my money in an engine to obtain a given power point, than to invest it in fuel that is blown out of the exhaust, never to be seen again. When I'm finished with the more expensive engine, I can get a lot of my money back when I sell it. How much do we get for used fuel?

Everyone has very strong opinions. It's just that most folks don't have the balls to step forward and express them. Those that do are disliked by the meek folks because they do have the balls and the meek folks don't. Argueing this point is pointless since people will be people no matter what you and I think.

Happy Holidays.


Ed Cregger

Old 12-23-2008, 08:53 AM
  #13239  
Garthwood
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Ed Creggar..............I used to be able to get Marvel Mystery Oil from Canadian Tire Stores up here. Its been off the shelf for about two years now. I still have two large bottles of it. Don't know why its been discontinued. Might have something to do with the environment.

Thanks for your comments.
Old 12-23-2008, 09:02 AM
  #13240  
Hobbsy
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Hey Ed, I like Corrosion X, that's all I use or ever will use, so there.[8D] Howz zat for steppin up.
Old 12-23-2008, 12:21 PM
  #13241  
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At's a good, Hobbsy.

I have yet to get my hands on that as yet, but it is in the que.


Ed Cregger
Old 12-23-2008, 01:21 PM
  #13242  
Garthwood
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Hobbsy...............at one of our local marine stores I found Star Brite Fogging Oil. Prevents Corrosion when storing Inboard or outboard Engines for extended periods of time. Apparently guys are using this product at end of flying season. I used it once, seems to be ok. You just spray it in. It protects cylinder walls, piston rings and other combustion chamber surfaces from rust and corrosion during periods of storage. I think it is similar to Corrosion X.
Old 12-23-2008, 04:24 PM
  #13243  
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I finally found Marvel Air Tool Oil...at Advance Auto Parts. They only had the small 4oz bottles, but at least it's a start. Corrosion X is good stuff for sure. I've got some ACF50. I wonder if that would be ok?

Now, to throw fuel on the fire (pun intended), a buddy of mine that runs 2 HobbytownUSA's recommended either Cool Power 15% or 30% Heli for my Saito 100 since they are all synthetic...no worries about gummed valves.
Old 12-23-2008, 06:02 PM
  #13244  
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

OF, I would suggest a Cline or IronBay regulator and you set the tanks on both sides of the tail if you wish.
You think i'll be nose heavy with the 220?? it's lighter than the recommended 26cc gas engine.It will eventually go in a 74" kit but a cheap 68" (or three) will do for now so i can shake the bugs out.
Old 12-23-2008, 06:18 PM
  #13245  
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ORIGINAL: VF84sluggo

I finally found Marvel Air Tool Oil...at Advance Auto Parts. They only had the small 4oz bottles, but at least it's a start. Corrosion X is good stuff for sure. I've got some ACF50. I wonder if that would be ok?

Now, to throw fuel on the fire (pun intended), a buddy of mine that runs 2 HobbytownUSA's recommended either Cool Power 15% or 30% Heli for my Saito 100 since they are all synthetic...no worries about gummed valves.
I know that many modelers swear by Cool Power. Others, having learned that it is often a recipe for rusted bearings and such, swear AT Cruel Power! I have some pictures of the insides of a Saito 100 that was run on Cool Power.

I know, I know. The manufacturer tells you that you don't even have to use after run oil! HA!

If you DO decide to use Cool Power, I'd recommend that you add at least 3 to 4 oz. of castor oil to each gallon. (I like Sig castor oil.) Then it should be OK.

Don't misunderstand me. I'm NOT saying that you can't use Cool Power in your Saito. I'm just saying that I WON'T!

You can take that advice or leave it, as you wish!
Old 12-23-2008, 06:38 PM
  #13246  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Ken,

I agree with the exception of not using the CoolPower. I have been running CoolPower for a few years and I have experienced some rusted bearings. I am now adding castor to help. I like the fuel over others, but it does need castor.

Jim
Old 12-23-2008, 06:49 PM
  #13247  
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Are the rusted bearings from not using after-run oil? Or does just burning the fuel cause it? I agree I'm skeptical of the admonition on the jug, as well as the Morgan Fuel website, to NOT use after-run.

But, with zero first-hand experience myself, I am more than willing to listen to the advice of others.
Old 12-23-2008, 07:19 PM
  #13248  
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This was while using after run oil. Primarily when the engines sit up awhile. The after run oil alone is not doing the trick. If the engines will sit up for awhile they need to be pickled. Either fogging or some method to coat the insides.

Jim
Old 12-23-2008, 09:59 PM
  #13249  
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HI Just wondering does the saito 1.00 have way more guts than the 91. I am debating it for a plane I own with the original thought of putting a Saito 91 in it but I see the 1.00 only weighs 19.20 vs 18.34 oz. thanks
Old 12-23-2008, 10:37 PM
  #13250  
mike early
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http://saito-engines.info/body_specifications.html

It appears to have 12% more power and cost only cost about 6% more.
Seems like a good trade.

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