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Welcome to Club SAITO !

Old 02-06-2009, 09:37 AM
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ORIGINAL: beeper0358


ORIGINAL: w8ye

After run oil usually does not run very well in an engine
Thanks w8ye, what do you normally use when you will not run your plane for like a month?


The best thing to do is to use plenty of ARO, as you have, but, before starting the engine for the first time of the day, pull the glow plug, cover the glow plug hole with a rag or bunch of paper towels and then bump the engine over a few times with the electric starter, clearing the engine of ARO. Reinstall the glow plug and you're good to go. This also will let your glow plugs last quite a bit longer by not beating them to death with too much ARO.


Ed Cregger
Old 02-06-2009, 09:40 AM
  #13752  
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Saito engines rock. I am starting a project with a P-82. I have two brand new saito 56's for power and can't wait to see them( and hear them) in action. I own 2 56, 1 72, 1 91, and 1 115. I like Saito engines because you fuel em up and they run till theyre out of gas. ( and they sound and perform great) Anyone with tips on my p-82 and how to make sure my 56's run their best together please feel free to help out this beginner. Thanks.
Old 02-06-2009, 09:43 AM
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ORIGINAL: Ed Cregger N2ECW




The best thing to do is to use plenty of ARO, as you have, but, before starting the engine for the first time of the day, pull the glow plug, cover the glow plug hole with a rag or bunch of paper towels and then bump the engine over a few times with the electric starter, clearing the engine of ARO. Reinstall the glow plug and you're good to go. This also will let your glow plugs last quite a bit longer by not beating them to death with too much ARO.


Ed Cregger

Thanks Ed I'll try that
Old 02-06-2009, 01:17 PM
  #13754  
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W8ye,
I just wanted to tell you guys i got my gk.65 rebuilt.
A new crank,cam,both bearings,ring. It was a little over 100.00 but i feel it was worth it ,
she fired rite up! Man these engines are great!The timing trick from the last one sure made
this one go smoothe.Thanks for the help again. Thought everyone would like to hear my
latest project, I got a E-Flite J-3 25e and have modified it for a gk.30 this has turned out
to be a beutiful set up. This plane will also be on floats after some flights with wheels. I
cant wait!! The weather down here is going to be in the 70's this weekend cant wait to fly.

Happy Flying,
Ty[8D]
Old 02-06-2009, 02:25 PM
  #13755  
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I will try and go Monday if the weather is good. It is supposed to be about the same as tomorrow, 70ish and low winds.
Old 02-06-2009, 02:40 PM
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ORIGINAL: beeper0358


ORIGINAL: Ed Cregger N2ECW




The best thing to do is to use plenty of ARO, as you have, but, before starting the engine for the first time of the day, pull the glow plug, cover the glow plug hole with a rag or bunch of paper towels and then bump the engine over a few times with the electric starter, clearing the engine of ARO. Reinstall the glow plug and you're good to go. This also will let your glow plugs last quite a bit longer by not beating them to death with too much ARO.


Ed Cregger

Thanks Ed I'll try that

Filling the cylinder and pouring ARO into the carb does nothing for a 4 cycle engine. You want the ARO in the lower end where all the steel parts are. IE, the bearings and crankshaft. You must squirt the ARO into the breather if you want oil in the lower end.
Old 02-06-2009, 03:54 PM
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http://www.corrosionx.com/

This is what I've been using since 1992, it is a Super Lube as well as a protectant, when injected through the vent it expands into a foam everywhere inside the engine including the cam area on the rear vented ones. I have opened engines up that have been stored 10 years and longer, the CX looks exactly like the day it was injected. It will not let castor congeal and will dissolve hardened into a harmless liquid. A little of it usually comes out through the front bearing having no effect on its seal.
Old 02-06-2009, 04:58 PM
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That seems like a damn good tip Hobbsy, thanks!

Where do you get yours?
Old 02-06-2009, 05:12 PM
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

http://www.corrosionx.com/

This is what I've been using since 1992, it is a Super Lube as well as a protectant, when injected through the vent it expands into a foam everywhere inside the engine including the cam area on the rear vented ones. I have opened engines up that have been stored 10 years and longer, the CX looks exactly like the day it was injected. It will not let castor congeal and will dissolve hardened into a harmless liquid. A little of it usually comes out through the front bearing having no effect on its seal.
How could it come out of the front bearing if it is sealed?
Old 02-06-2009, 05:14 PM
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Hi Dave,

I hope you are feeling better. I came down with it just after we spoke on the phone. Is it possible??? By the way, I am having a sale this month if you need anything.

Corrosion X is good stuff!

Jim
Old 02-06-2009, 05:30 PM
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Saito G60fv
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Old 02-06-2009, 09:11 PM
  #13762  
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Hey Guys, I need some help. I have many Saitos and have had real good luck with 'em. However, today I had a perplexing problem..
My Fa-100 mounted upright on a Yak began making a funny noise! Removed the back cover & the bottom of the connecting rod is rubbing on the crankcase bottom!!!
The con rod bushing is tight.. The crankshaft brgs are smooth, no slack.
Wonder what happened?
Any and all help will be appreciated..
Old 02-06-2009, 09:11 PM
  #13763  
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Mike, I used to get it from Sheldons in California but they got bought out and are pretty much a an RC car place now, the last two cans I got from the website above. Same price as from Sheldon's.

The seals can't hold that much pressure which is much greater than crankcase pressure.

Thanks Jim, I'll be in touch.
Old 02-06-2009, 09:16 PM
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ORIGINAL: ace4-40

ORIGINAL: beeper0358


ORIGINAL: Ed Cregger N2ECW




The best thing to do is to use plenty of ARO, as you have, but, before starting the engine for the first time of the day, pull the glow plug, cover the glow plug hole with a rag or bunch of paper towels and then bump the engine over a few times with the electric starter, clearing the engine of ARO. Reinstall the glow plug and you're good to go. This also will let your glow plugs last quite a bit longer by not beating them to death with too much ARO.


Ed Cregger

Thanks Ed I'll try that

Filling the cylinder and pouring ARO into the carb does nothing for a 4 cycle engine. You want the ARO in the lower end where all the steel parts are. IE, the bearings and crankshaft. You must squirt the ARO into the breather if you want oil in the lower end.
Good point! Thanks guys!
Old 02-06-2009, 09:25 PM
  #13765  
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Farther more you want this ARO to somewhat flush the crankcase of the oil that was in the crankcase from running the engine
Old 02-06-2009, 09:32 PM
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G'day Saito lovers.

I have a range of Saito Singles from 30 to 120 and one 90R3 but I have no experience with the twins. I would like to get a twin to put in something like a Goldberg Cub. There seem to be two series of twins - the older (I am guessing) ones with two valve covers and the later ones like the 60T and the 90T with one cover.

I heard years ago that some of the older twins were not all that great with respect to their carbys. Also, some have the pistons moving in the same direction and others in opposed directions which I guess would be smoother.

Any comments? There is a 100T on a certain auction site at the moment and a shop near me has a discount on the 60T and the 90T.

Thanks Mike in Oz
Old 02-06-2009, 09:40 PM
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There are the 60T and 90TS that look pretty much alike except the 90TS has black fins and the pistons move in opposite directions they have single carbs. these were the engines intended for the 40 size Cubs. They look like a Continental real airplane engine
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=SAIE060T 11-6 prop
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAIE090TS 14-6 prop

Then there is the old 90T and the newer 100T that the pistons move in the same direction and they have a double carburetor on them. These engines make a little more power as they have two carbs and fewer moving parts
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=SAIE100T 14-6 prop

There is a 182TDP twin that has a double carb and is made up much like the 90T and 100T engines. There was an earlier 132T but the carb was made a little different. The pistons move in the same direction and the cylinders have dual glow plugs
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAIE182TD 15-8 prop

Then there are two 300 twins that the pistons move in opposite directions but the engines look like the 100T engine. There's one with a single carb and another with two separate carbs that is a real hotrod with dual glow plugs. There was an older 240 that was made up much like these. Note: I've been corrected that it was a 270?
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAIE300TL 18-10 prop
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ID=SAIE300TTDP
Old 02-07-2009, 01:56 PM
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(Quote) Dave you half baked bikie as we say down here. Can you get up on a freezing morning and kickstart it first try? while listening to the carb suck midstoke as you boot her over after a quick carb tickle? and have you tried an old bsa or trumpy single..ever had a carb fire when she backfires or those brilliant pommy electrics fry your bum??

Hey OF, I missed that question, my 1200C has multi port sequential fuel injection and an electric starter, no kicker is available. When Harley first let some guys try out the fuel injected bikes the testers complained because the engines did not shake at idle like they're supposed to. Har;ey reprogrammed the FI and now they but only at idle, as soon as you start moving the shake disappears. I love it.
Old 02-07-2009, 02:02 PM
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Jim, I was supposed to test a 13x8 three bladed prop on amy Saito 1.00 for someone, so, here it is.

Engine====Saito 1.00 GK
Plug=====GloDevil 4C Special
Prop=====MasterAirscrew 13x8 three blade
Fuel=====WildCat 15%/18% all syn. Called 2/4 cycle fuel
Rpm/stock cast muffler==9,750
RPM/TurboHeader=====9.990

If memory serves I got the same difference when running a MA 14X8 K prop
Old 02-07-2009, 02:05 PM
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ORIGINAL: mike109

G'day Saito lovers.

I have a range of Saito Singles from 30 to 120 and one 90R3 but I have no experience with the twins. I would like to get a twin to put in something like a Goldberg Cub. There seem to be two series of twins - the older (I am guessing) ones with two valve covers and the later ones like the 60T and the 90T with one cover.

I heard years ago that some of the older twins were not all that great with respect to their carbys. Also, some have the pistons moving in the same direction and others in opposed directions which I guess would be smoother.

Any comments? There is a 100T on a certain auction site at the moment and a shop near me has a discount on the 60T and the 90T.

Thanks Mike in Oz
I have three FA80T's and 2 FA90T's which have the rods on the same crankpin, ala harley davidson, so the pistons move in the same direction. They are very smooth running and have little vibration. The original 80 had a single carb and was a bear to set. One cylinder always ran rich. The later double carb solved that problem and was excellent. The 90 always came with that carb. They were/are excellent engines. . They weren't real powerful but very nice engines overall.

Saito never made a 240 twin. It was a 270. Their first big one.

I ran an 80 on a Dave Platt YMF-3 Waco and it flew it very well. Ran a 14x6 top flite prop on it.
Old 02-07-2009, 09:46 PM
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Sounds like a nice ride dave,good luck with it.I was referring to the old days when half the excitement was getting it started and then the "will i get there??" kind of feeling.Exciting,but then that had it's drawbacks too

Did you test any three blade props on the 220? and how did the engine perform for you?

cheers
peter

Old 02-08-2009, 07:54 AM
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Pete, tomorrow I'll run a couple of 3 bladers on it if I have appropriate sizes, a 16x8 Graupner 3 blader should be close to right.
Old 02-08-2009, 04:36 PM
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I got a question you guys may be able to answer for me..I got a used 180 from a guy here on rcu..It is not that old..he said maybe 2 gallons..There is no compression for some reason..any help would be great
Old 02-08-2009, 04:46 PM
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Make sure the carb throttle is open and oil the cylinder. See what you have then
Old 02-08-2009, 04:52 PM
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When you say oil..you mean pull the glow plug and do it that way?

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