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Old 05-16-2009, 11:42 PM
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Sounds like you are getting there

Good luck
Old 05-17-2009, 12:12 AM
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Just wanted to get your opinions, My saito .56 with a 12 x 6 prop was previously measured at 9,500-10,900 rpm max and suddenly last Friday it jumped to 11,100 rpm. Is this bad? I've richen the needles a bit but it seems to not slowing down to the previous 10,000 - 10,500 RPM. My engine is fairly new, I say just coming around to one galon on it. My flying buddy says it might have just completed the breaking period. Any ideas? Thanks.
Old 05-17-2009, 12:15 AM
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As long as you keep the 12 X 6 on it everything should be OK
Old 05-17-2009, 01:28 AM
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Thanks w8ye, sure is nice to have experienced flyers around
Old 05-17-2009, 09:40 PM
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ORIGINAL: beeper0358
Just wanted to get your opinions, My saito .56 with a 12 x 6 prop was previously measured at 9,500-10,900 rpm max and suddenly last Friday it jumped to 11,100 rpm. Is this bad? I've richen the needles a bit but it seems to not slowing down to the previous 10,000 - 10,500 RPM. My engine is fairly new, I say just coming around to one galon on it. My flying buddy says it might have just completed the breaking period. Any ideas? Thanks.
9,500 to 10,900 is a very large window. Is the engine RPM unstable at wide open throttle ? With that muchchange you will be ableto hear the difference, is this the case or is the tach just changing numbers ?
Old 05-17-2009, 10:57 PM
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chasint the RPM is stable and tach doesn't fluctuate as much. Iwas just concerned I was over revving the engine at 11,100 RPM (others run theirs at 9,500 - 10,000). Iwill try and tune it again this coming thursday and also try a 13 x 5 prop and see what happens. Thanks for the reply
Old 05-17-2009, 11:00 PM
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I have several 56 Saitos and they all run just a little above 10,000 with a APC 12-6

Maybe you have a smaller prop on it?
Old 05-17-2009, 11:11 PM
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Iam using MAS 12 x 6 and it was running at 10,500 for a while.

It just came to my mind it happend after Ichanged my plumming. I bought a dubro tube bender and replaced all my fuel tubes going into the fuel tank with nice 90 degree bends to include the back pressure pipe. Could it have caused it?

I'll try again with another MAS 12 x 6 and a 13 x 5 and retune them both see what happens.
Old 05-18-2009, 12:30 AM
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Could be?

The 56 that I use right now has a 13 X 4 APC and a Turbo Header. It really screams if you keep it full throttle for any time at all. Don't know what it turns but it idles real well with a 13" prop. It is on a H9 Ultra Stick and will hover but that at nearly full throttle.
Old 05-18-2009, 01:05 AM
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ORIGINAL: w8ye

Could be?

The 56 that I use right now has a 13 X 4 APC and a Turbo Header. It really screams if you keep it full throttle for any time at all. Don't know what it turns but it idles real well with a 13" prop. It is on a H9 Ultra Stick and will hover but that at nearly full throttle.
Can't wait to test it with my MAS 13 x 5, Ialso have a 13 x 4 and will see how it goes. At least I know there is nothing to worry about, thanks again to all

Old 05-18-2009, 07:01 PM
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ORIGINAL: w8ye

back 50 yrs ago we boiled the props before we used them or they would break
Old 05-18-2009, 10:10 PM
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Good day gentlemen, </p>

I had an unfortunate accident that consisted of a high-throttle contact with a plot of dirt.  I searched the thread and found a lot of good info about repairs, but not a lot about what to actually do after a crash.   Here's a couple of pics of the only damage I could find (engine separated from the plane and bounced a few feet).  I think the battery caused this dent.  My questions are these:</p>

1 - Can I test run the engine with this dented manifold, or do I need to wait for the replacement?</p>

2 - What should I do to look for hidden damage?  Does anyone have an "after crash inspection" list?</p>

3 - I was planning on using carb cleaner and fuel to flush out any dirt from the engine.  Dumb, smart?</p>

4 - Any other advice or good ideas for resurecting the engine?</p>

Thanks in advance for everyones help!  Oh, the engine is a 1.25.  Thanks.</p>

Pearhead.  (I'll post the pics in another post so this is easier to read)  </p>
Old 05-18-2009, 10:25 PM
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Here are the photos for my last posting about the crash. . ..</p>
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Old 05-18-2009, 10:44 PM
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Apologies for previous blank post - I am having significant problems with the stability of the RC site settings. What I wanted to do was just comment on the glass propellers note from w8ye. </p>

The Graupeners we get (and are still getting) here in Oz that I have seen come with a  warning placard on the packaging to ensure that the prop is boiled prior to use. </p>

I believe the exercise is to restoire a certain amount of water content to a propeller that may have been stored for awhile. I am lead to believe that a "dry" fibreglass prop is significnatly more brittle than one that has been subjected to this pre-use treatment.</p>

Anyway, as I am one to always read the literature and obey manufacturer's recommendations  (and it is no real hardship to do so) I boil all my Graupener props prior to use - and I have never had a brittle type failure or breakage.</p>

</p>

Regards,</p>

TC  </p>
Old 05-18-2009, 11:45 PM
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G'day PH. The dent in the manifold will not greatly affect the running. The main thing to check is that there are no leaks at either end of the pipe.

The engine looks pretty much OK to me. I usually start by washing the outside of the engine (while blocking up any holes) with a brush and some denatured alcohol (or metholated spirits - metho - as we call it) to wash off any dirt and oil. Then check the the engine turns over smoothly to see if any dirt has gotten inside. With Saitos, this is usually not a problem with the carby hidden away round behind the engine. I have found that prangs like this sometimes break the lug on the back plate on to which the carby is mounted so I would pull the carby off for a clean and to check the mount and also to clean and oil the O rings. As I said before, the main problem could be that if the pipe is bent at all, it may no longer seal properly allowing the engine to suck air. This could lead to erratic running or the engine may simply not be able to suck fuel and may then not start at all. I had this recently with a Saito 56 which ran backwards and pushed the O ring out . This engine also has a slightly bent pipe which only makes the problem worse.

As for carby cleaner, I don't know. I do know that brake cleaner is a definite NO NO with the black coating on Golden Knight Saitos. It takes the coating off like paint stripper in no time flat.

Hope this helps a little. Have fun.
Old 05-19-2009, 01:21 PM
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Can any one tell me what is a good 3-D prop for the saito 82. I run a 13x8 on my pattern plane with a 82. Would I use a 14x4, 15x4, maybe a 15x5?? I have a OMP profile yak that I put a Saito 82 on. Should be fun!!!!!
Old 05-19-2009, 04:52 PM
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IF you are runng no more than 15% nitro then a 14 X 4W
Old 05-19-2009, 05:24 PM
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Thank You! I will go get one.
Old 05-19-2009, 06:27 PM
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Mike109, </p>

Thank you very much for the crash advice - it is very helpfull!</p>

PH</p>
Old 05-19-2009, 07:28 PM
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Anyone, I have gasket kit for 300t on backorder but it looks like it might be a while, any ideas about what to use to make one at home I dont know if end play for crankshaft is an issue or does it just need to be a good seal ?help Thanks George
Old 05-19-2009, 07:47 PM
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Use a magazine cover for a gasket
Old 05-19-2009, 07:52 PM
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G'day PH

It is a bit of a worry to be an expert at crashing but I have done my share over the years. I have two Saito 56s and the older one has had at least tow bad crashes.

The first was my nephew. He was learning to fly and he was coming along well (a bit too well) and his instructor was telling him how to do a Split-S. Unfortunately he did not tell him you need to be farily high for it to work and junior rolled the model on to its back at about 50 feet and high speed, pulled in full up and plowed straight into the ground.

The second crash was mine. I was test flying a Tiger Moth which I had not built straight. The flight lasted about 1 minute and looked like the flight of an enraged bumble bee until it finally came to earth with a resounding thud.

Here in country New South Wales our fields are on the dusty side and they tend to be on the hard side as well. Not a good place to crash at all.
Old 05-19-2009, 07:58 PM
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George, the one thing you really NEEDis the cam box gasket. The cam box depends upon the correct thickness to properly space the two gears, and it is thin enough that I believe it would be very difficult to cut one from a similarly thick paper.

Perhaps someone on here can tell you if this engine shares the cam box with another Saito? If so, perhaps you can buy the gasket kit for that engine, and use the cam box gasket from it for your 300 twin.
Old 05-19-2009, 09:55 PM
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Does anyone know the weight of a 1.50 with stock muffler?
Can't find it on Horizons site.
Just shows engine only at around 30 oz.

Also is a 1.50 significantly more powerfull than a 1.25?
Looking at the specs I wouldn't think so
Old 05-20-2009, 08:32 PM
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ORIGINAL: sodbuster 1

Does anyone know the weight of a 1.50 with stock muffler?
Can't find it on Horizons site.
Just shows engine only at around 30 oz.

Also is a 1.50 significantly more powerfull than a 1.25?
Looking at the specs I wouldn't think so
I'm not at home right now, or Icould weigh one for you. Here is a listing of Saito specs, and it shows the 1.50 to develop 2.5 HP vs. 2.2 for the 1.25. Idon't know how much you can rely on those HP ratings, but that is 14% more HPon the 1.50. The 1.25 is quite a bit lighter though...

Ihave both the 1.50 and the 1.25, and although Ihaven't run them on similar planes, the 1.50 does seem to have a noticeable amount more power than my 1.25, and it ain't no slouch!

http://saito-engines.info/specifications.html

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