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Old 05-20-2009, 08:37 PM
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The 150 uses a 16 X 8
The 125 uses a 15 X 8 or 16 X 6
Old 05-20-2009, 10:11 PM
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ok, that answers that. The weight I think should be ok as I have a 1.15 on the plane now ( need more power) and need a 12 oz RX pack in the nose to balance it.With the 1.50 I can replace the RX pack with something more like 6oz. and probably be ok

Now how do I make the engine a tad shorter to fit in the nose of this plane?

Is there such a thing as a shorter prop hub?

The carb hits the firewall and still needs to go back about 1/4" for proper spinner to cowl fit.
The only other solution Ican come up with is cutting out the area of the firewall that touches the carb
but then I haveto deal with fuel gettingin the nose of theplaneunless I close it off from inside the firewall.
Can't point the carb the opposite way as the engines to be mounted inverted and the carb would then be pointing straight at the dirt (I fly off a grass runway) plus would leave no way of running linkage for the servo
Old 05-20-2009, 10:15 PM
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I would box in a recess for the carb
Old 05-20-2009, 10:29 PM
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ORIGINAL: mbrennan1

Can any one tell me what is a good 3-D prop for the saito 82. I run a 13x8 on my pattern plane with a 82. Would I use a 14x4, 15x4, maybe a 15x5?? I have a OMP profile yak that I put a Saito 82 on. Should be fun!!!!!
I started running the 15x4w's on my .82 with 15% I get 9600rpms peak . I will warn you though the peak is tricky . If you have small plumbing change it to large +300-400 rpm . All in all your thrust will be close to the 14x4W on 30%
Its the only reason I switched to a 15x4W cause a 14x4W on 15% just was not cutting it and it spins it at 10,600 . 11,200 on 30%
Again you need to be really familiar with the tuning of a Saito and the larger plumbing does make a noticable difference on my setups.

Old 05-21-2009, 12:41 PM
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W8ye & Ken6ppc Thanks for the tips , will use one of my wife's mags. The cam gasket is not broken , isit a bad idea to reuse cam gasket if it is sound?. Great site with good advise... keep it up Thanks Geo.
Old 05-21-2009, 01:28 PM
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It is best to reuse the original cam gasket if it is in good shape
Old 05-22-2009, 01:57 AM
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Is it true that the cam gasket is what determines the clearance of the gears?</p>

Thanks,</p>

Ernie</p>
Old 05-22-2009, 06:30 AM
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Yes


Old 05-22-2009, 03:14 PM
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Gentlemen,</p>

I am the proud owner of 2 Saito 100's I am having difficulty with the HS needles vibrating and leaning the engines out. I am certain this is not normal what should I be looking for? The engines are realtively new and were broken in using the prescribed method in the manual.</p>

I have leaned the lower end on both engines somewhat but only about 1/4 of a turn on each I have inspected the retainer on both and both seem tight enough. It has been suggested to me to put fuel tubing over the retainer but not sure I want to do this or is this a common solution any help with this would be greatly appreciated.</p>

Richard </p>
Old 05-22-2009, 03:34 PM
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I've personally used Fuel Tubing as a Needle Valve "damper"on several engines in the last 45 years, and it's never let me down. It won't HURT anything, but you need to be aware that you will need to pull the Needle Valve to slip the Fuel Tubing onto the system. If you are uncertain or uneasy about Needle Valve adjustment, this might be an issue.

Likely there are other solutions out there should removing the Needle Valve be problematical for you. If your NV is just exactly the way you like it, you might consider wrapping the whole thing with a tightly wound Rubber Band. I suspect it would dampen all vibration and NV rotation.

Matagordababy
Old 05-23-2009, 03:42 PM
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Help!         Just replaced  the bearings and cam followers in my Saito 1.00 due to rust. I got the stainless bearings from RC bearings, and the front bearing is leaking like crazy! Should I go ahead and buy new ones from Horizon or contact RC Bearings?</p>

Thanks,</p>

Steve</p>
Old 05-23-2009, 06:58 PM
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Pull it back apart and with the crank out and the bearings still in, look down through the crank hole with a light on the other end and the look at the seal on the front bearing.

See if you see any light through the seal lip area of the bearing

Look and see if it looks like the seals are away from the inner race. What I've seen on these bearings, that leak, is that the seal is not even touching the inner race. I don't know if you got them hot or what but if the seals are not touching, it is not going to work.

Email Paul McIntosh at RC Bearings and tell him of your observations
Old 05-23-2009, 09:56 PM
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Thanks,  W8ye I will do that. Your help is much appreciated!</p>

Steve</p>
Old 05-24-2009, 08:31 AM
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I am hoping one of you saito guys has or has had a sr telemaster. I have one with an enya 120 4s on it.I just had to had too much lead to it for balance. Was wondering what you guys flew it with? Will a saito 80 get it off of the ground good?
Old 05-24-2009, 11:47 AM
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It will get it off the ground but the take off might be more enjoyable with a 91

after you get it up in the air, it will be fine.
Old 05-24-2009, 04:50 PM
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So It was a decent day out so I thought I would get my to work on my saito 82. On the ground level runs great. Throttle responce is perfect. idle is perfect..When I tile the nose up it get air bubbles in the line?.....Almost ready to step on the whole thing and go rubberband power..lol
Old 05-24-2009, 05:30 PM
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It is sucking air from somewhere
Old 05-24-2009, 06:37 PM
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I was going to say the same thing as W8YE.  Open up the tank... you will probably find a nick in the fuel tubing, or even a crack in the metal fuel tubes that they're connected to...</p>

Bob</p>
Old 05-24-2009, 06:50 PM
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The clunk line was split where it goes on the brass tubing.. How does that happen and how do I keep it from doing it again? Do I need to use wire to hold it on or just slip a new one on? Thank you guys so much for the help
Old 05-24-2009, 07:03 PM
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Chances are that when you cut the tubing, you left a burr or a sharp edge. I try to deburr my edges with sandpaper or a knife/X-Acto blade. The sharp edge acted like a knife over time and that's why it split.

Please don't ask why I stared doing this to my fuel tank assemblies...
Bob
Old 05-25-2009, 02:11 PM
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Thanks for all the help guys. replaced the clunk line and am now flying..
Old 05-25-2009, 05:25 PM
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They make small scale cutters for fuel tubing that works great. The price should be around $8 or so. Trimming and smoothing brass tubing isn't necessary any more when you use one of these.
Old 05-26-2009, 12:49 AM
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&gt;&gt;&gt; They make small scale cutters for fuel tubing that works great. The price should be around $8 or so. Trimming and smoothing brass tubing isn't necessary any more when you use one of these. &gt;&gt;&gt;</p>

Anyone have a link to one of these cutters?   Is it different from the typical tubing cutter that you rotate around the tubing as you tighten it down?  I have one of those that goes down to 1/8" but a razor saw seems quicker with aluminum tubing.</p>

Thanks,</p>

Ernie

</p>
Old 05-26-2009, 12:52 AM
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I use the razor saw and then deburr it with a file and sand paper
Old 05-26-2009, 04:47 AM
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ORIGINAL: Ernie Misner



&gt;&gt;&gt; They make small scale cutters for fuel tubing that works great. The price should be around $8 or so. Trimming and smoothing brass tubing isn't necessary any more when you use one of these. &gt;&gt;&gt;</p>

Anyone have a link to one of these cutters? Is it different from the typical tubing cutter that you rotate around the tubing as you tighten it down? I have one of those that goes down to 1/8" but a razor saw seems quicker with aluminum tubing.</p>

Thanks,</p>

Ernie

</p>
Here's one:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXR790&amp;P=8

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