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Old 05-30-2009, 08:44 AM
  #14851  
Michaelh
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ORIGINAL: McChiken


ORIGINAL: Michaelh

McChiken have you got yourself a tach yet !!!! You should dump that 20/20 and get a 15/18 or a 25/18 with some castor .
Guys, Keep your exhaust tight and sealed and maybe buy a nice looking turbo header !
Hey Michaelh , I have 15/18PowerMaster but thats for my 2-strokes . Its like a Frigid female , doesn't give me what I need in a four banger . I have 2 Saito82's and a Saito115 . It's synthetics only for all them . I used to run 25/18 heli fuel in the 82for the first 2 gallons . I did some readings on my older 82 on my Mojo . With a APC 14x4w I was getting 9000 . A little weak . 13x6 APC 9800 . Now I have a 14x4 xoar yankin 10k . I only have 1 flight on the 115 with a 15x6 xoar and haven't taken a reading yet but I also haven't peaked it out yet . The guy I got it from only had 10 tanks through it . So it will be babied a little more . My brand new 82 , well , its still looking for a home .

My older 82 fell out of a plane from a couple hundred feet up so that might contribute to the lower R's. I had a motor mount fail . A friends dog found it a month later . It doesn't idle as low as it should either .

Thanks RC-Bearing , Forgot to mention that part . You must be single if your sticking parts in the crock pot . LOL
Just to give you a bench mark on the .82 . It should be swinging the 14x4w at around 10,600 on 15% Give or take for certain conditions .
I see you over on the 3DHS Sukhoi thread . Maybe one of them ? The 58" Extra is the one I like to fly the snot out of though .
Im going out with the Sukhoi ,maybe some video , I dont know . Hard to find a camera man these days !

Old 05-30-2009, 11:20 AM
  #14852  
blw
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Skyflyer- you are member #637

About half of the members are listed in this thread by the late Bill Robison, and I've kept the logs for 489 thru 637 here at home on a pad. I guess I should upload the list one day when I have time to type it all in. Or, maybe scan the pages.....

Anybody else???
Old 05-30-2009, 05:03 PM
  #14853  
donzhere
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If someone just recently purchased a new or used Saito engine, what technique would you offer to set high end needle valve.....by RPM's?
Old 05-30-2009, 06:03 PM
  #14854  
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For starters, I would break it in just like the manual says. After that first 10 minutes, I would run the RPMs to something like 5000 for a tank, then maybe the 6000-6500 range, etc. I would give it some full throttle blips along the way and maybe a few seconds wide open on that 2nd or 3rd tank. Just depends on whether the engine smoothes out quickly or if it takes a long time. Each engine behaves differently. If it smoothed out quickly, the engine would see more wide open runs for the first 40 minutes.

Just my way of doing it.......
Old 05-30-2009, 07:52 PM
  #14855  
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Thanks guys I was under the understanding that you do want a little castor in the fuel (dont want to start a war). I am used to no castor Iguess thats why the 2 stroke muffler stayed clean. A guy is just using striaght cool power at the field and has no caramel on the muffler what so ever. Thanks
Old 05-30-2009, 07:52 PM
  #14856  
McChiken
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Michaelh , I'll look forward to seeing some vids on that . I took the Edge540 out today with the 115 on it . Winds were gusting to 15mph so landing always brings on a butt pucker factor . Hoping tomorrow is a little nicer . Downwind tumbles were insane though . Kinda weird what wind does to people . Our club has 180 members and I was the only one there at noon .

I'm gana try adjusting the valves which I haven't done in a while . Maybe that will help on the 82 . A new gasket and seal kit might help too ???


Slats , Its like " You say Potato I say Potawto " or " To Be or not To Be" , tis the question . Personal preference . Horizon pros run 30% in em . Too much money for me though . So much so I bought my first gasser . Now the price of fuel doesn't hurt me so bad just the price of a new airframe . LOL
Old 05-30-2009, 08:02 PM
  #14857  
Michaelh
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McChicken
Yeah that pucker factor I know too much ! [X(] I flew in dead winds today for the first time in months and it was a different experience for sure . Finally was able to get some newer planes trimmed in decently . But still no one wants to be the camera guy . Uhhhhggg
Ill see what comes tomorrow as the Sukhoi is a bit nose heavy at this point . My .82 is not fully broken in on it either and the low end gets back rich in no time Got the idle down to around 2300 so its getting there slowly but surely .

What Edge is it you have ?

I feel the same on the castor , I just got back to running it again and had 0 problems with synth. and even no afterun oil . The 30% , yeah just get a bigger engine I say . Save the $15 per gallon more and the
big mess it makes on your covering .

Old 05-30-2009, 08:05 PM
  #14858  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !



BLW



Skyflyer- you are member #637


About half of the members are listed in this thread by the late Bill Robison, and I've kept the logs for 489 thru 637 here at home on a pad. I guess I should upload the list one day when I have time to type it all in. Or, maybe scan the pages.....

Anybody else???




Did you look up Frequent Flyer?





Thanks

Old 05-31-2009, 12:05 AM
  #14859  
McChiken
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ORIGINAL: Michaelh

....What Edge is it you have ?

I feel the same on the castor , I just got back to running it again and had 0 problems with synth. and even no afterun oil . The 30% , yeah just get a bigger engine I say . Save the $15 per gallon more and the
big mess it makes on your covering .

Its the Edge540t from Aeroworks . Nice build and great flying plane . It's a little pitchy but thats what makes an Edge fun . You could fly it with a Saito82 but don't try any 3D stuff cause there isn't much pull-out with that motor . The picture of the whole plane is when I had the .75ax on it . If anyone ever gets this ARF move the CG back at least an inch further than recommended .

I use afterrun oil on planes that I can get to the carb . But all my stuff is stored indoors so no rust factor .
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Old 05-31-2009, 12:22 AM
  #14860  
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Saito fans! A question; Does anyone know if I can dremel away some of the "webbing" on a Sig glass filled nylon engine mount? Is that webbing for show or very important to the structure/strength of the mount? The throttle arm on my 72 needs more room to move properly. The mount is from the Senior kit. Thanks!

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Old 05-31-2009, 12:37 AM
  #14861  
McChiken
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ORIGINAL: kargo

Saito fans! A question; Does anyone know if I can dremel away some of the "webbing" on a Sig glass filled nylon engine mount? Is that webbing for show or very important to the structure/strength of the mount? The throttle arm on my 72 needs more room to move properly. The mount is from the Senior kit. Thanks!

I don't see why you couldn't put a .5 inch radius in there to make room . You still have a heckof a lot of webbing on the bottom too .You could also take the 2screws out that hold the carb on and turn it around 180 deg. if that would work better . I did that on my .82 . Some Saitos you can't do that on cause the way the carb is mounted .

Your up late being on the east side . You doing what I call a " marathon build " ?
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Old 05-31-2009, 09:53 AM
  #14862  
blw
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ORIGINAL: frequent flyer

Did you look up Frequent Flyer?





Thanks

Do you need a number as a new member?

Old 05-31-2009, 09:58 AM
  #14863  
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ORIGINAL: McChiken
I use afterrun oil on planes that I can get to the carb . But all my stuff is stored indoors so no rust factor .
After run oil can help, but being stored either inside or out has no bearing on internal rust. Castor will protect better against hot, lean runs and against rust. It also protects the moving/mating parts somewhat better than 100% synthetic. We've seen this on the cam lobes.

Old 05-31-2009, 10:15 AM
  #14864  
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Thanks McChicken. I've been despretly trying to get this Sig Senior in the air for the last half month. It seems like it drags on and on, I've done little else thanks to my wife who has been picking up the slack with the house/kids. We're putting it in factory colors (transparant red with black trim) and adding a bunch of LEDs. It'll get done, some day
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Old 05-31-2009, 10:39 AM
  #14865  
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I had thought thatI had joined a long time ago and a number was assigned. just wondered what it was? But if not a New Number as a new member Is just fine also. Not that big a deal, it's all just for fun anyhow, right.... Thanks Don





ORIGINAL: blw


ORIGINAL: frequent flyer

Did you look up Frequent Flyer?





Thanks

Do you need a number as a new member?

Old 05-31-2009, 01:06 PM
  #14866  
McChiken
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That looks real Cool Kargo . You putting led's in the fuse and tail feathers too ? Post some pic's when done .

I know an oldtimer that has a largest senior . He was a sponsered pylon racer back in the days and a really good pilot . He modified the wing with some BarnDoor ailerons and bigger control surfaces on the tail . He can do stuff with that plane that would make your jaw drop . I guess thats why the kit has been around for so many years .

BLW , I don't claim to be a metalurgist but I do know "No moisture = No rust " . Now corrosion is a different story if thats what your talking about . Ive done lots of maching on steel parts . If they get put outside they rust , If we leave them inside they don't .You guys might be in a different situation back east cause I know how high humidity gets there . I livein some pretty dry airin ca. and my house stays between 65-80 deg. year round .
Old 05-31-2009, 02:27 PM
  #14867  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Here in the midwest of West Aus its very dry. Rust can still develop on engines that are left for a while.
Methanol will draw any moisture out of the air. To try it get a shallow dish and put 10ml or so of glow fuel in the bottom of the dish. Let it stand for half an hour and check it. There will be moisture beaded around the dish near the glow fuel.

I bought an engine (used) from a place here in Aus called Alice Springs. Its in the heart of the desert and that engine had rust on the bearings. 
Old 05-31-2009, 05:59 PM
  #14868  
Slats!
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Just curious i need to adjust the valves on an 82. Should you oil the area before putting the cover back on. If so is there a particular type peole use or can you just use after run oil. Thanks
Old 05-31-2009, 06:18 PM
  #14869  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

slats,

I have found the area to be soaked in oil when I removed the covers. I have had tomop it up with a towel before adjusting. If it should be dry a few drops of after run will be fine to lubricate.

Jim
Old 05-31-2009, 07:43 PM
  #14870  
w8ye
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I take a toothpick and place a little black Moly Chasis grease under the covers after adjusting the valves. That looks like what Saito uses when they put the engines together.
Old 06-01-2009, 03:33 AM
  #14871  
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !



Seems to me I've eliminated the muffler stains since disassembling the muffler and adding high temp silicone (red) around front, rear, and center joints and using teflon tape to seal all muffler threads..... then re-tightening the muffler after it gets hot. 



Hey, how can we see the list of Saito Club Members and see where we were inducted?



Thanks,



Ernie

Old 06-01-2009, 09:55 AM
  #14872  
rajul
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Hi once again folks! Anyone knows what type of cable works best forgroundingan engine (for a glow plug connector). The cable I'm using seems to break by fatigue after 25-30 flights. Anyone tried copper braid? Thanks
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Old 06-01-2009, 10:39 AM
  #14873  
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Mike,

Whichever wire type you decide to use, connect it under a rear engine mount bolt.

That would be a point of less intense vibration.

If you have it connected on the head, that point of maximum vibration intensity
Old 06-01-2009, 10:53 AM
  #14874  
rajul
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Hi Jim, I had the ground cable connected to one of the rear crankcase bolts. I had the cable and the lug brought forward for the photo.
Old 06-01-2009, 11:00 AM
  #14875  
w8ye
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I have one inverted cowled engine with the ground connected to the mounting bolt on a OS 91 Surpass II. It has been there about four years. It is whatever wire that came with the remote connector

You might try just crimping the connector and not also soldering it?

Some shrink tubing over the connection may help spread out the flex?


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