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Old 06-01-2009, 11:21 AM
  #14876  
rajul
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I had the joint soldered and the heat shrink tubing I used was a little soft. It broke right at the edge of the solder joint. I'll try your suggestion of just crimping it, and use a harder tubing.
Old 06-01-2009, 03:02 PM
  #14877  
Michaelh
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I used the braid on my 180 kinda looks like a little ground strap like used on autos . Mounted it on the rear bolt and it would still come loose every so often .
Old 06-03-2009, 04:39 AM
  #14878  
charlie1960
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solid copper wire 22 ga. to 18 ga.
crimped soldered and heat shrinked
under a rear mounting bolt with a nylon insert locking nut on the bottom.
no problems in two years
Old 06-03-2009, 05:32 AM
  #14879  
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ORIGINAL: w8ye

I take a toothpick and place a little black Moly Chasis grease under the covers after adjusting the valves. That looks like what Saito uses when they put the engines together.

The lubrication is needed between the moving parts. Grease on the outside of these junctures can block oil from getting between the parts, where it is needed. Grease should not be applied simply by slathering it on. If there is no grease nipple installed to forcefully direct the grease between the moving parts, it should not be used.


Ed Cregger


Spelling correction
Old 06-03-2009, 06:27 AM
  #14880  
w8ye
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ORIGINAL: AJ4PJ


ORIGINAL: w8ye

I take a toothpick and place a little black Moly Chasis grease under the covers after adjusting the valves. That looks like what Saito uses when they put the engines together.

The lubrication is needed between the moving parts. Grease on the outside of these junctures can block oil from getting between the parts, where it is needed. Grease should not be applied simply by slathering it on. If there is no grease nipple installed to forcefully direct the grease between the moving parts, it should not be used.


Ed Cregger


Spelling correction
Oil?

What oil?

Old 06-03-2009, 07:49 AM
  #14881  
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ORIGINAL: rajul

Hi once again folks! Anyone knows what type of cable works best forgroundingan engine (for a glow plug connector). The cable I'm using seems to break by fatigue after 25-30 flights. Anyone tried copper braid? Thanks
Properly crimped stranded wire will last a long time if, like others have said, it is mounted to the rear mounting lug. By properly crimped, I mean using a properly sized ratcheting crimper, not the crap supplied with the connectors and lugs (Yep, good tools cost more!). Also, some heat shrink tubing over the crimp and along the wire for an inch or so will reduce fatigue cracking.
Old 06-03-2009, 08:35 AM
  #14882  
NM2K
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ORIGINAL: w8ye


ORIGINAL: AJ4PJ


ORIGINAL: w8ye

I take a toothpick and place a little black Moly Chasis grease under the covers after adjusting the valves. That looks like what Saito uses when they put the engines together.

The lubrication is needed between the moving parts. Grease on the outside of these junctures can block oil from getting between the parts, where it is needed. Grease should not be applied simply by slathering it on. If there is no grease nipple installed to forcefully direct the grease between the moving parts, it should not be used.


Ed Cregger


Spelling correction
Oil?

What oil?


The oil that you should have added to the rocker assembly area instead of the grease. We agree that these parts need lubrication. I'm just saying that grease isn't the answer and that oil is the answer. Ever see folks grease their auto's door hinges in an effort to quiet down the racket? Doesn't work. There's no way for the grease to get inside of the parts that are rubbing each other while dry. A shot of oil fixes things right up. Same thing.


Ed Cregger
Old 06-03-2009, 09:59 AM
  #14883  
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ORIGINAL: AJ4PJ


ORIGINAL: w8ye


ORIGINAL: AJ4PJ


ORIGINAL: w8ye

I take a toothpick and place a little black Moly Chasis grease under the covers after adjusting the valves. That looks like what Saito uses when they put the engines together.

The lubrication is needed between the moving parts. Grease on the outside of these junctures can block oil from getting between the parts, where it is needed. Grease should not be applied simply by slathering it on. If there is no grease nipple installed to forcefully direct the grease between the moving parts, it should not be used.


Ed Cregger


Spelling correction
Oil?

What oil?


The oil that you should have added to the rocker assembly area instead of the grease. We agree that these parts need lubrication. I'm just saying that grease isn't the answer and that oil is the answer. Ever see folks grease their auto's door hinges in an effort to quiet down the racket? Doesn't work. There's no way for the grease to get inside of the parts that are rubbing each other while dry. A shot of oil fixes things right up. Same thing.


Ed Cregger
Ed, when assembling motorcycle and auto engines, it is necessary to use special assembly greases in critical wear areas such as cams and rockers. This prevents excess wear and heat until proper lubrication can get in there. Redline makes a great one for that. It will be washed out when the oil is present.

That said, it is entirely OK to use a high quality oil designed for use in model engines in place of the grease. Notice I said oil designed for model engine use. Using just any oil can be detrimental if it is broken down by the fuel and oil mixtures. I usually have a small bottle of Sig castor handy for assembly. I also use Amsoil synthetic grease on the cams of my YS and OS four strokes.
Old 06-03-2009, 02:57 PM
  #14884  
Michaelh
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I get plenty of oil in my heads . Although my engines are inverted ,
Old 06-03-2009, 03:01 PM
  #14885  
NM2K
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ORIGINAL: RC-Bearings


ORIGINAL: AJ4PJ


ORIGINAL: w8ye


ORIGINAL: AJ4PJ


ORIGINAL: w8ye

I take a toothpick and place a little black Moly Chasis grease under the covers after adjusting the valves. That looks like what Saito uses when they put the engines together.

The lubrication is needed between the moving parts. Grease on the outside of these junctures can block oil from getting between the parts, where it is needed. Grease should not be applied simply by slathering it on. If there is no grease nipple installed to forcefully direct the grease between the moving parts, it should not be used.


Ed Cregger


Spelling correction
Oil?

What oil?


The oil that you should have added to the rocker assembly area instead of the grease. We agree that these parts need lubrication. I'm just saying that grease isn't the answer and that oil is the answer. Ever see folks grease their auto's door hinges in an effort to quiet down the racket? Doesn't work. There's no way for the grease to get inside of the parts that are rubbing each other while dry. A shot of oil fixes things right up. Same thing.


Ed Cregger
Ed, when assembling motorcycle and auto engines, it is necessary to use special assembly greases in critical wear areas such as cams and rockers. This prevents excess wear and heat until proper lubrication can get in there. Redline makes a great one for that. It will be washed out when the oil is present.

That said, it is entirely OK to use a high quality oil designed for use in model engines in place of the grease. Notice I said oil designed for model engine use. Using just any oil can be detrimental if it is broken down by the fuel and oil mixtures. I usually have a small bottle of Sig castor handy for assembly. I also use Amsoil synthetic grease on the cams of my YS and OS four strokes.


Well, I know that Jim knows better than to put two parts together dry and then load them up with grease on the non bearing surface area available. I should have explained that to begin with. And yes, I know that assembly greases are available for the job at hand (assembling an engine). I meant to say one thing and said something else, which made Jim look bad. My apologies to friend Jim. I know that he knows his stuff. I just don't want the folks that are new to all of this to think that you can put a lump of grease beside a contact point and that it will miraculously find its way to where it is needed - that's all.

Nice hearing from you, old friend.


Ed Cregger
Old 06-03-2009, 04:28 PM
  #14886  
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Dang, Ed! I was in Greenville, SC last summer for a couple of weeks on training. If I know I was that close to you I would have come by!
Old 06-03-2009, 09:25 PM
  #14887  
jdkxtreme
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 Two questions for the experts ...

1st    Good prop for a saito 80gk in a .40 size cub? I have a mas 14x6 k series


2nd  The motor is inverted so the opening of the carb is up. It is about 1" from the cowl. Do I have to cut a whole in the pretty cowl or will I be ok?
Old 06-03-2009, 11:01 PM
  #14888  
WiLL-3D
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Hey guys

I got a tach and cheked my saito 100
running CY30%/23%oil
APC 15x4W- 10,230- peak
Zinger Pro 15x6 9,000-peak

I think these RPM's are kinda low for the saito 100, specially when using the Zinger pro. My brother is getting 10,700 peak from his 91 with a 14x4W running on 15% fuel...

My valves are adjsted and have tuned my needles to the best point.. are these RPM's on a normal range.. or are they low?
I've heard from people gettin 9,800 out of there APC's 15x6. Could the prop being Zinger bring my RPM's down by 800? I really think these RPM's are very low specially when am running in 30% heli fuel!  Any advice would be very welcome

William
Old 06-03-2009, 11:26 PM
  #14889  
stallwart
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ORIGINAL: jdkxtreme

Two questions for the experts ...

1st Good prop for a saito 80gk in a .40 size cub? I have a mas 14x6 k series


2nd The motor is inverted so the opening of the carb is up. It is about 1" from the cowl. Do I have to cut a whole in the pretty cowl or will I be ok?
I think a 13x6 would be better for the 80.

Don't bother cutting holes in the cowl for the carb. If you have intake for cooling, the engine should breathe.

Old 06-04-2009, 07:26 AM
  #14890  
Rudolph Hart
 
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You could use a soft spring like the have in a biro pen if you like,for the actual connection.
Old 06-04-2009, 09:46 AM
  #14891  
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There are no cooling holes as of yet. Will a 1" square under the prop work? The bottom of the cowl is pretty open..
Old 06-04-2009, 03:07 PM
  #14892  
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ORIGINAL: WiLL-3D

Hey guys

I got a tach and cheked my saito 100
running CY30%/23%oil
APC 15x4W- 10,230- peak
Zinger Pro 15x6 9,000-peak

I think these RPM's are kinda low for the saito 100, specially when using the Zinger pro. My brother is getting 10,700 peak from his 91 with a 14x4W running on 15% fuel...

My valves are adjsted and have tuned my needles to the best point.. are these RPM's on a normal range.. or are they low?
I've heard from people gettin 9,800 out of there APC's 15x6. Could the prop being Zinger bring my RPM's down by 800? I really think these RPM's are very low specially when am running in 30% heli fuel! Any advice would be very welcome

William
The Zingers are a power hog . You should fly it before you make a decision on whether to keep it or not though. Static RPM's are not everything and things change in the air .Also props are a personel preference to ones style and skill set .


The numbers do seem a tad low . But how much time do you have on your engine? It will take a couple gallons before you see the true potential .

BTW I get 10600 rpm off my .82a with a 14x4w on 15% measured with a Fromeco tach . Sounds like your not hitting the peak when tuning maybe ? I also run a 15x4 W at 9600 rpm on the same setup.

Old 06-04-2009, 11:08 PM
  #14893  
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ORIGINAL: jdkxtreme

There are no cooling holes as of yet. Will a 1" square under the prop work? The bottom of the cowl is pretty open..

According to experts, at least a 1 to 3 ratio of inflow to outflow for cooling is best. The most important is amount of open area for outflow unless a means of ducting or routing of airflow is built in. I any case, carb probably won't know the difference.

Old 06-05-2009, 09:43 PM
  #14894  
WiLL-3D
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ORIGINAL: Michaelh


ORIGINAL: WiLL-3D

Hey guys

I got a tach and cheked my saito 100
running CY30%/23%oil
APC 15x4W- 10,230- peak
Zinger Pro 15x6 9,000-peak

I think these RPM's are kinda low for the saito 100, specially when using the Zinger pro. My brother is getting 10,700 peak from his 91 with a 14x4W running on 15% fuel...

My valves are adjsted and have tuned my needles to the best point.. are these RPM's on a normal range.. or are they low?
I've heard from people gettin 9,800 out of there APC's 15x6. Could the prop being Zinger bring my RPM's down by 800? I really think these RPM's are very low specially when am running in 30% heli fuel! Any advice would be very welcome

William
The Zingers are a power hog . You should fly it before you make a decision on whether to keep it or not though. Static RPM's are not everything and things change in the air .Also props are a personel preference to ones style and skill set .


The numbers do seem a tad low . But how much time do you have on your engine? It will take a couple gallons before you see the true potential .

BTW I get 10600 rpm off my .82a with a 14x4w on 15% measured with a Fromeco tach . Sounds like your not hitting the peak when tuning maybe ? I also run a 15x4 W at 9600 rpm on the same setup.

Hey,

Yes those are my peak's.I bought the engine used along with my harrier 90, the guy told me the engine had already broke in, although it did seem like new. The engine had no marks, no oil stains on it or anything. After I bought i Ihave ran about one more gallon through it, and this is all Iget... hopefully it get's better in some time! Could there be anything affecting the performance? The plug is a almost new OS F btw.

Thanks

William

Old 06-06-2009, 08:24 PM
  #14895  
Michaelh
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Will , all we could do is speculate . Just sounds to me like it has not fully broken in yet . 45minutes and a gallon is not near fully broke in ;D That plane could use a 1.15 though .
 Try a 16x4W to get your rpms in the 9's also .
Old 06-07-2009, 05:48 AM
  #14896  
Rudolph Hart
 
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Hi all,does anybody have a prop recomendation for a 115 in a small midget mustang(1400mm wingspan).We have a short field and i like to fly it scale.Image to follow.
Old 06-07-2009, 08:44 AM
  #14897  
w8ye
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APC 12 X 11N 99mph @ 11,000

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX1574&P=7
Old 06-08-2009, 06:40 AM
  #14898  
Rudolph Hart
 
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Thanks for the advice.No way i'm running my 115 anywhere near that and will try a few different props static and try to work it out from there,there must be a scale of load for props coarse to fine when they are flying.
Old 06-08-2009, 08:29 AM
  #14899  
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I have a Saito150 inverted in my Mustang. The fuel tank is well above the carb and is set back about  7" from the engine.
Can someone advise the best pump or regulator so the engine wont flood when the tank is filled.
Thanks, RON
Old 06-08-2009, 09:20 AM
  #14900  
w8ye
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The Cline demand regulator is the only way to go. Pressurize the tank with muffler pressure through a check valve.

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