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Welcome to Club SAITO !

Old 10-12-2009, 04:59 PM
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<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">I finally had the opportunity to complete the break-in and do a comparison run with my FG-36. I have to say first of all, this is a very strong running engine. It tunes a little differently than the Saito glow engines during the initial tune. The low side needle has a more noticeable affect on the high side and like the glow engine, it is necessary to find a balance between the two.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">I found the manual initial settings of the low and high side needles to be insufficient. The manual states 4 turns out for the low side (mine was at 3 1/4). The high is stated at 2 1/3 (mine was 2 &frac12.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Initial Break-in: APC 18x6W benchmark prop, 20:1 oil mixture, and stock muffler.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">During the initial break-in run (using Hobbsy&rsquo;s method) things were fine until increasing rpm to 8000. The engine would not accelerate beyond 7700 rpm without going lean. Opening the high side had no affect. The needles were reset as follows: Low side to 5 turns out and High side to 4 turns out. This allowed full rpm to be reached with a rich run.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Now the fun began.At a peak rpm of 8600, I started leaning the low side checking the acceleration as I went. I realized that the peak rpm would change after a few adjustments. I had to reset peak rpm with the high side and go back to the low side after about three adjustments. Once the low side was close to the best setting, the peak would not change. Like the glow models the low side is very sensitive and very small adjustments should be made. I also found the engine to be difficult to prime when hand starting. I am sure a starter will fix that.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">The final results are as follows:</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="6"><u><font size="3">Stock Muffler</font></u></font></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Full Throttle RPM:8600 peak, reduced to 8300</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Fuel Mixture: 20:1 Echo blend</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Idle: 1700 rpm, set at 1800 for smoothness (new engine)</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">6 Volt 1800 MAH Battery</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"><font size="6"><u><font size="3">TurboHeader Muffler</font></u></font></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Full Throttle RPM:8750 peak, reduced to 8450</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Fuel Mixture: 20:1 Echo blend</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Idle:1700 rpm, set at 1800 for smoothness (new engine)</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">6 Volt 1800 MAH Battery</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">This is a great running engine. I will be trying both the Menz 18x8 and the Mejzlik 19x8 for flight.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt"></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt">Jim</div>
Old 10-12-2009, 05:38 PM
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Keep up the good work on the FG-36
Old 10-14-2009, 03:35 PM
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What's a good 3 blade prop size for a Saito 150? I've got a Topflight 80" T-34 Mentor with I'm putting the 150 in.
Old 10-14-2009, 04:48 PM
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Good question!

Jimbo
Old 10-14-2009, 05:09 PM
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ORIGINAL: billd3


What's a good 3 blade prop size for a Saito 150? I've got a Topflight 80" T-34 Mentor with I'm putting the 150 in.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXNGV2&amp;P=7

Old 10-14-2009, 05:40 PM
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I'm thinking about picking up the new Hangar 9 Blue Nose P-51. I have a 1.50 that I took out of a Cap that I nuked. Does anyone know if this would fit in that airframe. I know it's obviously a little on the high power side, but I like the plane and don't want to buy a new motor if I can use one I have.

Thanks!!
Old 10-14-2009, 05:54 PM
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http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=HAN2420

This plane will take a 125 Saito but a 150 would mean a butcher job. There's a tremendous difference in the external size of these two engines
Old 10-14-2009, 07:19 PM
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Bummer....that's kinda what I figured......ok next question....what plane do you think would good for the 1.50...I'm looking for something like and Edge or a Yak or an Extra. I've been eyeing the AW Yak 1.20. Haven't really seen much else out there. Any suggestions?
Old 10-14-2009, 07:28 PM
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It will handle the 150 nicely there's a M. A. N. review as well as a RCU review

http://www.aero-works.net/store/detail.aspx?ID=288
Old 10-14-2009, 07:45 PM
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I agree with w8ye. The yak 1.20 should be a good platform for the 1.50. Wing loading will be a little higher but it should fly nice. I like the extra power. Especially when doing aerobatics. It can save the plane in those bad situations.

Jim
Old 10-14-2009, 09:02 PM
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Yeah...the more I look at it, the more I like the Yak. I have the .60-.90 size Extra from AW and I love it. I thought it was a little pricey compared to some similar airframes in that size, but it is a joy to fly.
Old 10-14-2009, 09:14 PM
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The Aeroworks planes are made pretty good
Old 10-14-2009, 09:16 PM
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I have a 1.25 without a home. I would like a Yak also but I have too many planes now.

Jim
Old 10-14-2009, 09:27 PM
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Yeah...I have too many planes too....but I can't have an engine without a home....it looks so lonely. The aeroworks planes are nice, but in the Extra there were a few things that I had an issue with. One being that it's advertised as a quick build but the hinges aren't glued in. Not really a big deal, but that's one of their big claims in the QB series. Because of that I didn't see how it was any quicker than any other ARF I've assembled. Also, the way the wings attach is a little annoying. They are bolted in with one cheap blind screw on each wing and the they have 2 metal pins per wing that you need to push these teany tiny hair pins into....the ones towards the rear of the plane are easy enough, but the ones towards the front are a nightmare. The have fuse bracing over the top of them which make it damn near impossible to get in. I ended up using a small cotter pin instead. Plus the blind nuts snapped after about 10 flights. Please understand I am in no way bashing the AW planes, the thing flies awesome and I would buy another one in a heartbeat, just a couple of annoyances that made me a little disappointed with the price tag is all.
Old 10-14-2009, 09:42 PM
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I have a bunch of 125's

One is on a Twist 60 and the other is on a You Can Do 60. They fit the planes like the planes were intended for the 125.

When it comes to power, you have to be careful
Old 10-15-2009, 09:24 AM
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Too many planes? Bite your tounge.

It's like a woman having too many shoes.

I never saw a plane i didn't want.

slopoke[X(]
Old 10-15-2009, 09:31 AM
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ORIGINAL: w8ye

I have a bunch of 125's

One is on a Twist 60 and the other is on a You Can Do 60. They fit the planes like the planes were intended for the 125.

When it comes to power, you have to be careful


I too have a 1.25.

What do you mean, "When it comes to power, you have to be careful"? TIA


Ed Cregger
Old 10-15-2009, 09:50 AM
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Uh-Oh, here we go.

I agree with him, Ed!

Think of this as the 30's with the Gee Bees coming out and pilots are around, but only some could fly the Gee Bees.... Some guys are suited for more powerful planes, and some for LESS powerful planes. Everybody has different flying styles, and enough power to get out of trouble and enough power to hover are quite different, as is enough to hover and enough to ROCKET out of a hover!

Your plane and your flying style have to fit each other. Sometimes a ton of power just doesn't suit a plane, or even its frame.

There's my two cents!


Jimbo
Old 10-15-2009, 10:31 AM
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I can assure you that there is plenty of power available when you put a 125 in a twist 60. It looks as natural there as any plane. There's no weight and balance compromises. The plane will accelerate straight up with a 16 X 6. The only problem I can see is that I ran 12 gal of fuel through it this summer.
Old 10-15-2009, 10:42 AM
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In the past, the UCD 60 has had chronic problems of the tail section breaking off. Some of that was attributed to speed.
Old 10-15-2009, 11:45 AM
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Thanks for the prop info for the 150 guys
Old 10-15-2009, 11:53 AM
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I use a 17 X 4W on the You Can Do 60 to help keep the speed down and never run full power unless headed straight up.

The UCD 40 is worse than the 60 in that the elevator is mounted lower. The elevator counter balances get caught in the grass and tears them off at take-off.
Old 10-15-2009, 11:55 AM
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We do this thing at our field that helps with that. Works every time. We call it Mowing the grass......

Jimbo
Old 10-15-2009, 12:02 PM
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To keep the UCD 40 counter balances from catching the grass in the 3D full up elevator position, you would have to shave the grass with a razor.

It's best to just let the plane fly off level.
Old 10-15-2009, 12:18 PM
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Guess U-Can't Do that, then!

Jimbo

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