Chancho

Thanks Hobbsy!

I ended up drilling and tapping for the 8 - 32...But it's good to know the tap size for future reference... I've tested the new fitting and am getting plenty of smoke oil in their and the system turned out pretty good with initial tests. Now, everything is almost put together inside the plane and I'll have to put a few pictures and or a video of the Saito 125 with the smoke system. If it smokes as good in the air as it did on the ground it should be pretty fun.

Michigan in the 60's and sunny today - Flying season 2010 is off to a pretty good start!

Rudolph Hart

Hello jimmy.Subject the sprat bar to some huge g's by thoughtfully crashing the aeroplane first.Breaks the factory locktite seal and easy peasy to quote dave

chunkyplunker

Well, run across another 18-8 prop and was lucky I had two nuts in my garage that I could use temporarily until I get the correct nuts. Started the 1.80 again, but it wouldn't do anything past half throttle and that is stretching it judging by the carb barrel. Had a 16-10 prop and decided to try it to see if it done any better and got the same result. The high speed needle seems to have no effect when turned except getting too lean and causing it to get hot and dying. There is a large amount of fuel coming out of the exhaust, at least enough to start a puddle beneath it.
When I go past half throttle it begins to bog down and run erratically losing any RPM I had with either prop. Any suggestions, or should I send it back to Saito and let them look at it. I've tried three different props, changed the glow plug, pressure checked the fuel system. I may remove it from the plane and try it on a test stand, this way I would be eliminating any variables the may still be in the fuel system.

One thing I did notice is that fuel drizzles out of the carburetor when it is not running. Is this common, or an indication to what may be my problem?

Any thoughts or am I on a hopeless mission.

P.S. I am beginning to think it is not meant for me to own a name brand engine. Out of five engines I have tried to run lately the two name brand engines has given me the most problem. Both of them were engine's I thought I would enjoy, but the Saito does sound good while it's running.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If fuel runs out your carb when the engine is not running the tank is too high

chunkyplunker

Could that be causing all the problems. I've never heard of anyone having this much problem out of a Saito.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

One way to find out is to lower the tank.

If the engine s mounted in a plane you can just tilt the plane up

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Riverview- you are member #683

Sharpeye22

I am far from being an expert, However I had the same problem with a 72 I got off E-bay. To resolve the problem I reset both jets to factory settings and, started the engine then began to twike the needlejets till it ran properly. 1st the high speed to get max rpm less 300 (It ran terriable at this point), then the low, then back to the high and so on till I was happy. I did have to come in a good bit more than I expected on the low jet. But when it was finaly set properly the engine ran like a properly oiled sewing machine. I run it inverted in my 40 size P51 and it is one of my most reliable engines. And that is without an onboard Glow driver.
Sharpeye

cjoker5475

i got the new saito fg-14 for my hanger 9 piper pawnee 40 and its perfect,but im having a problem all of a sudden and i dont know what to do.for some reason my throttle servo is glitching real bad.only the throttle one.none of the other servos are glitching.at first i thought it was the engine until i unhooked the thottle arm from the servo.when the ignition is and the engine is not running,the servo works fine but when i start the engine only the throttle servo starts glitching like crazy.ive changed servos and even receivers and it still dont fix it.please help

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You have to use a non metallic throttle rod on a gasoline engine

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Well, since all the Saitos are running well and in no need for tinkering, I decided to move on to something a little more challenging for the weekend.....
Funny how the wife doesn't complain about my working with motors on the kitchen table when it's her car that needs a valve replaced, new stem seals, and a timing belt!!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

That's different and it's important and necessary

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Yes it is, and truthfully she's usually pretty good with letting me tinker with airplane toys on the table if it means I can be social with the family and I protect and cover well (of course)and have it clear for dinner(naturally)and clean up-n-put away everything when I'm done...sounds pretty reasonable to me

The really nice part is I get a bump in the acceptable expenditures for toys this month equal to 1/3 of what it would've cost to have the shop do the work and she just suggested that outta the blue! (YAY, another FA-62 in the bag!)

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Sharp, the best procedure is to set the HS needle at absolute peak and then set the LS needle. The seat for the HS needle is fixed, so once set, changing the LS needle setting will not alter the HS setting. With the HS needle set at peak procede to lean the LS needle by leaning it about 1/8th turn at a time, testing the transition and full throttle after every other change. If the LS needle gets set too lean it renders the HS needle ineffective so make sure the LS needle is set too rich before setting the HS at peak. The LS setting is very important as it controls about 85% of the throttles range.

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

There!
That oughta wake this baby up!

Happy flying to the rest of ya.

Sharpeye22

Hobbsy,
I appreciate the input, and may try your method, However. the method I described has never failed me. Additionaly, I have found that as I lean out the low speed jet it does affect the mixtue of the high speed jet. It therefore needs to be adjusted as the low speed jet is slowly leaned in small steps. Before I started using this method I could never get a reliable adjustment. As I stated I run my engines inverted without an onboard glow driver and they run withexcelent transition, and extremely low ideal.
Sharpeye

mike109

G'day all. This is not a totally 100% Saito story but there are several Saitos in there.

Lately the weather here has been pretty terrible. It has either been too hot, too wet or too windy with the result that I have not done a lot of flying for a couple of months. So last Sunday when I looked up the weather forecast and was greeted by a week of what looked like good weather coming I decided on a bit of a Marathon Of Flying.

The result is that in seven days I have flown every day flying no less than 10 different models using no less than 11 IC engines and one electric. This is what I flew and what powered it.

80% Astro hog - Saito FA-40a
Four Star 60 - Saito FA 100
Midstar 40 - Super Tigre 51, Thunder Tiger 54, OS 52 Surpass. (on successive days)
Sig ARF Kadet - ASP 91 4c
Goldberg Anniversary Cub - Saito 91FS
Boomerang 60 trainer - Thunder Tiger 75s
Multiplex Easystar - Electric (sorry)
Heron Gas Buggy - Silver Swallow 1.5cc diesel. This one caused quite a bit of comment.
Kadet Senior (kit version) - Laser 70
Decathlon - Laser 100.

Of all these, only one engine dead sticked - the Super Tigre because it is really not run in enough. Both Thunder Tigers suffered stripped prop nuts but as both engines are second hand and their owner did not like them this is not surprising.

I think I have made up for not flying much in the last couple of months. It sure was fun.

Anyone else had a week like this?

Mike in Oz.

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

Hey Mike, does that Anniversary Cub go straight up? I have a 25 year-old O.S. .61 four-stroke in mine and it flies just the way it should on less than half throttle.

Bob

mike109

G'day

The little 90TS is nowhere as powerful as say a FA-91. It is more like FA-65. As you know the Cub will fly on very little engine. I even had an OS FS40 in one once and a very tired Enya 46 too. The 60T is the "normal" Saito twin for the Cub but I was unable to get one when I went shopping so I went for the 90 as it actually weighs a few grams less than the 60 and is recommended for Cubs on floats. The result is a Cub which has more than enough power but not too much. I once had an OS 70 Surpass in one. That was too much. It had two modes - about 1/3 throttle was scale mode and any more was Spitfire mode.

Tarasdad

My Saito .80 used to reside in the nose of a Goldberg Cub. As above 1/3 throttle was very sedate and Cub-like, but open her up and that poor Cub would do things no Cub should ever do!

nextofkin

My Feedback: (8)

Engine for Hanger 9 PT-19
I have a Hanger 9 PT-19 82" wing spain that I bought at a swap meet it sugest a 1.20 to 1.50 engine would a 1.20 fly it ok not looking for 3D just fly laps a roll once in a while, loop and have enought power to get out of trouble also have a 1.25 but I think that I will need the weight of the 1.20 so not to add any more weight also what prop would work 15X8 or 16X8 or sonething else?
nextofkin

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

I had a Great Planes PT-19 (now a PT-26) that is the same size (82") and I have a Saito 1.20 in it. I needed to add some ballast in the tail to get it to balance on the C.G. It flies just fine at about 1/2 throttle. The Hangar 9 may have different moments but as far as power is concerned, the 1.20 is more than adequate. I'm using a composite 16/6 prop.

Bob

nextofkin

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks Retransit
What does it weigh, and what canopy did you use? The PT-26 looks good. I've thought about that but finding a canopy that fits is something else.
Thanks
nextofkin

retransit

My Feedback: (18)

I'm not sure about the weight, but somehow 11 lbs. 4 oz. comes to mind. I'll have to weigh it.
I made the canopy from a sheet of vacuum forming plastic. It is made up of 5 pieces.

Bob

Jimmy Hoffa

My Feedback: (3)

Good suggestion Dave. I'll try that!

Seriously though, I slightly threaded on the needle valve (needle broken off) and tapped it with a hammer (small brass). That way the spray bar didn't flair. It was really stuck. Crisis resolved!

Is it important to have the hole in the side of the spray bar aligned with the fuel inlet nipple? (I did)
Phillip