spaceworm

Is the header pipe turning to loosen up the assembly, or is the jam nut loosening? Is there room to use aother nut to tighten against the first? Since it has a pretty long moment arm just hanging, can you fit a support bracket to help steady the muffler so it does not shake around?

spaceworm

Just because I had them, I use an OS aluminum mount for my FA 180, and a JTEC aluminum mount for my FA 120 abc. They seem to work fine.

Sincerely,

Richard

bandit409

Richard the manifold pipe is what is turning, using red thred lock the nut was so tight I could hardly gewt it off. I think it is something to do with the aluminum to steel connection on the manifold pipe. I have a Turboheader from RC Specialties ordered, it is aluminum and screws directly into the cylinder. It takes the place of the muffler. Hope this works I have tried everything else.

James

solarviper

My Feedback: (139)

to keep it simple i would use washers or small spacer that lowes sells to move your mount forward, just like he stated, as far as your muffler coming loose i very rarely have had a saito muffler come loose, in fact i can only think of 2 times, what i did to fix it was i drilled a small 1/16th hole right where the two mufflers go together and installed a 1/16th aluminum rivet and that seemed to keep it on there permanently

charlie1960

Blue Loctite is all ive ever used, and it works.

JohnB96041

Have you tried regulare motor oil on the threads and then lock it down tight while it is hot? Works every time for me. Never lost a muffler or header pipe on Saito's or O.S. 4 strokes.

Cherokee Flyer

You will like your Turboheader when you get it. It is a work of art and runs great. Very much worth the cost.

L.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

they weigh almost nothing compared with the Saito muffler

kram

My Feedback: (7)

THANKS for the tips.

I will go with the SAI8075A/8074A combo to most closely duplicate the old set-up.


mt

solarviper

My Feedback: (139)

MT you might even consider using these pipes for saito too -> http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ID=SAI450R3D74 they would look cool hanging out of your bomber and they have pressure taps for the fuel tank as -well, make sure you get 12mm threaded pipes for the saito 65

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Even though these pipes are used on the 170 which has Saito 56 cylinders, the threads are the same as the bigger Saito 65,72,80,91,100, & 115 engines. They use an adapter on the radial engine.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=SAI170R374
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=SAI170R373

spaceworm

Is this style pipe available for the Saito 120 and 180 also? Thanks.

Sincerely,

Richard

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

B409, here's a hint that may help, when tightening the jam nut, tighten it and take note of how far it turns to full tight. Then back it off and back the pipe out exactly the same amount. Now, tighten the jam nut and let the pipe rotate with the jam nut until tight. Holding the pipe in a position and tightening the jam nut will never get it as tight as letting them turn together. Do this with two wraps of Teflon Plumbers tape.

spaceworm

Thanks for your response.

I think the greater pluses (to me) are lighter weight and that they are smaller and made of aluminum which us more compatible with the aluminum head threads (helps them stay tight)?



Sincerely,

Richard

charlie1960

aluminum to aluminum, better use a anti-seize compound, A to A threads tend to gauld

RC Specialties

Charlie,

This is why we recommend the teflon tape. It helps seal and it protects the threads.

Jim

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

OK Jims et al, I traded an Enya .90 for this Saito .80, maybe you can pin point the year by the box. The engine has awesome compression, I have a whole house full of company but will try to run the .80 after while.

charlie1960

Not everyone knows aluminium will do that.

If i had a second job, i'd buy a TurboHeader

charlie1960

do they still make a 65?

bandit409

OK the Turboheader has shipped. Sure hope it is as good as the service.

James

bandit409

RC Specialties

They have a high temp teflon sealer in a tube. Would it be better than the tape.

James

RC Specialties

I recommend using the tape. It is more likely to protect the threads. We have worked hard to get the right threadtolerance to avoid any problems. The tape provides a good seal andcushionfor the threads. You could try it but I feel the tape would be better.

Jim

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Charrley, I did a search on Horizon for Saito 65 and obnly got parts to come up that are common with other Saitos. The .65 has apparently been replaced by the .62 which is a sweet heart of an engine.

azalner

My Feedback: (8)

Hello Hobbsy!

The Saito .80 you show dates back to the mid 1980's. This is based on the blue and white box. Saito later switched to the black and gold box. I have owned four of these .80's and they are awesome engines. These engines are sometimes refered to as the "high compression" version of the .80. Run great on 10% to 15% nitro. Don't need any higher nitro content. I am still running two of these .80's, although I have replaced the bearings in them over the years. Very easy to do.

This is my first post in this forum and I guess I should summarize my Saito experience. My first Saito was an .80 that I put in a Super Sportster .60. Great flyer! Met its demise avoiding an idiot on the field during landing.
I built a SE-5a from MAN plans and put an .80 in it. Turned out to be way over-powered so I put a .65 in it. Still a bit over-powered but still flying after 20 years!
I bought two more .80's and put them in a variety of .60 sized sport planes and never had any real problems.
When Saito came out with their .91 I bought two with the idea of replacing my .80's. I was disappointed. The .91's never did develop the power that I expected and I was constantly fiddling around with them. Finally sold them both.
Then Saito came out with the 1.00. What a sweet engine! Currently flying one in a Pacific Aeromodel Edge 540 and another in a Hangar 9 Ultra Stick .60. Both are GREAT flying planes. The Edge is set up for on board glow so to start it I open the throttle, spin the prop with the starter for a few seconds, reset the throttle to 3 clicks open, turn on the ignition, hit it with the starter and its running. Starts the same way every time and no dead sticks. Running 15% nitro with 1% castor/16% synthetic.
Along the way I acquired a 1.50 running in an Ultra Hots but I'm retired now and couldn't afford to feed that fuel guzzler.

Since 1985 I have run only Saito 4 strokes so if that qualifies me for club Saito Mr. Moderator - sign me up.

Al Z

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Welcome to the glow forum