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Old 07-27-2010, 02:18 PM
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Will do
Old 07-27-2010, 02:26 PM
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Haven't you any warbirds?
Old 07-27-2010, 03:55 PM
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I've got an older Saito 1.50 that has/had the choke slider plate that closes off the carb. Due to the need for clearance with the motor mount I removed that plate. Now there is a small open slot between the carb body and the velosity stack. Is this a problem? Thanx..........!
Garyss
Old 07-27-2010, 04:19 PM
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You put an O ring in there.

Go to the harfware with your carb and find a suitable one
Old 07-27-2010, 04:27 PM
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ORIGINAL: mike early

Haven't you any warbirds?
I don't have a single warbird. I've been building and flying models over 55 years. I have always been a functional model builder and have never owned a P51 Mustang.

I have had stick type planes for many years

I enjoy looking at and appreciating yours though

Old 07-27-2010, 06:09 PM
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Warbirds and Saitos love each other very much
Old 07-28-2010, 10:27 AM
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That back gasket is sometimes not thick enough. does it get compressed? why does the rod sometimes come in contact with the back plate?

The front bearing is perfect. back bearing shows a little corrosion. I will replace it. But I don't think that's the culprit here?
Old 07-28-2010, 03:46 PM
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Hey ya Mike,

The conrod kisses the backplate ( an leaves them swirly marks ) when an electric starter is used. This is generally because you're pushing the starter cone on to the prop to get that good contact without slipping off.

I suppose if your motor ran backwards the prop thrust could force the crankshaft back also.

CFN, Paul
Old 07-28-2010, 04:40 PM
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I just cannot imagine that much play so that the pressure of holding the electric starter cone on the spinner moves the entire crank backwards. The prop nut is tight! That would be somewhere around 1mm of axial play and I don't see it. I've been wrong 10000 times and counting, though.


Sometimes I hear what sounds like 'knocking' at WOT. A richening of the high end doesn't affect this 'sound'. I felt a little bit of radial play on the tips of the 16" prop and that's why I opened up and decided to replace bearings. The corrosion on the back bearing might have allowed some wear, and play. But I thought, maybe that noise is the con rod contacting the back plate. Seems a stretch though.
Old 07-28-2010, 05:44 PM
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ORIGINAL: w8ye

That is low

I would be looking at that exhaust valve about it still sticking?

Take off the valve cover and put some penetrating oil around the stem and work the valve by hand.

You might pull the exhaust pipe and look in the hole at the valve stem if there is a blob of carbon on the valve stem.
ORIGINAL: Craig 01

The rocker the pushrod dislodged from was caused by a sticky valve although as w8ye has said check for carbon on the exhaust valve stem and work both valves with a dosing of oil applied to the junction of valve guide/stem.I have found after a lengthy storage the inlet valve gets sticky in it's guide.I have also checked valve spring free length after a lengthy period with one valve held open and both springs measured the same length.I always turn a single fourstroke to TDC compression (both vaves closed) after running at end of days use and prior to storage by habit for the very reason of not wanting to keep one spring compressed.
Check and set valve clearance while your at it.
Carby barrells can get sticky after storage check its free and fully opening.
Thanks for both of your inputs! I removed the rocker arm pin and pushed down on the valve. Both valves stuck a little when first pushed. I shot some wd40 in there and worked the valves where they are pretty smooth. I didn't see gobs of carbon but there were some deposits on the exhaust valve. Anything else needed here?

When I replace the rocker arm pin, should I use some blue or red lock tight on it?

Last, can you recommend a tool for removing the valve spring keeper?
Old 07-28-2010, 06:53 PM
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Hello everybody. I just bought a FS100. This is my first four cycle engine. I have read that this engine shoud be using 30% heli glow. Today I was at the hobby shop and the attendant told me that when he sends this engines back to Horizon for any problems they test them with Cool Power 15%.
Any ideas? The 30% heli is at $29 a gallon here in C. Florida whereas the 15% Cool power is at $18. Are they the same for the Saito 100? Am I going to be able to tell the difference? Help []
Old 07-28-2010, 06:59 PM
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Don't use Cruel Power unless you want rusty bearings

The 30 heli is not so bad as regular Cool Power for it has 20% synthetic oil

Use Omega 10 or 15%
Old 07-28-2010, 07:07 PM
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G'day I have 14 Saitos. I love 'em. I run them all on 10% nitro. They don't "need" any more. In fact, they run perfectly on 5% nitro. More nitro does give you more power but it also makes you use fuel a lot faster and adds to your rust problems. I also use fuel that has a small amount of castor oil in it as well as Klotz 200 synthetic. My standard brew (which I can buy ready made or make my self which costs about half as much) is 10% nitro, 5% castor, 15% synthetic and 70% methanol.

If you need more power, use a bigger engine. Saito has such a complete range there is no real need to be using lots of nitro.

I am in Australia so I am not sure what the fuel in the USA contain but I have heard Omega mentioned many times in response to questions like this and I think it is similar to my mix and does contain some castor. I am sure someone will fill us in on this.
Old 07-28-2010, 07:38 PM
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Thanks w8ye and mike 109. I guess for the little price difference Im going to go with 30%. I will have no idea of how to mix it like mike 109 is doing. I will let you guys know how is flying
Old 07-28-2010, 09:35 PM
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ORIGINAL: P47 Jug - Al

Thanks for both of your inputs! I removed the rocker arm pin and pushed down on the valve. Both valves stuck a little when first pushed. I shot some wd40 in there and worked the valves where they are pretty smooth. I didn't see gobs of carbon but there were some deposits on the exhaust valve. Anything else needed here?

When I replace the rocker arm pin, should I use some blue or red lock tight on it?

Last, can you recommend a tool for removing the valve spring keeper?
Just for future reference I suggest avoiding WD40 at all costs when working on your engines. It can easily degrade o-rings and seals. I used alcohol when cleaning my FA80 out after being in "storage" at my dad's house for nearly 15 years and it worked great. Followed that with a tiny amount of air tool oil when I reassembled the engine. As for thread lock on the rocker arm pivot I vote no. For the spring keeper use a pair of small needle nose pliers or similar, and use a small screwdriver to press the spring down while you remove/replace the circlip. Did it that way on mine and worked great - but make sure you have something over the work area to keep things from flying off into the distance, just in case (I used a towel).
Old 07-28-2010, 09:43 PM
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ORIGINAL: Tarasdad


ORIGINAL: P47 Jug - Al

Thanks for both of your inputs! I removed the rocker arm pin and pushed down on the valve. Both valves stuck a little when first pushed. I shot some wd40 in there and worked the valves where they are pretty smooth. I didn't see gobs of carbon but there were some deposits on the exhaust valve. Anything else needed here?

When I replace the rocker arm pin, should I use some blue or red lock tight on it?

Last, can you recommend a tool for removing the valve spring keeper?
Just for future reference I suggest avoiding WD40 at all costs when working on your engines. It can easily degrade o-rings and seals. I used alcohol when cleaning my FA80 out after being in ''storage'' at my dad's house for nearly 15 years and it worked great. Followed that with a tiny amount of air tool oil when I reassembled the engine. As for thread lock on the rocker arm pivot I vote no. For the spring keeper use a pair of small needle nose pliers or similar, and use a small screwdriver to press the spring down while you remove/replace the circlip. Did it that way on mine and worked great - but make sure you have something over the work area to keep things from flying off into the distance, just in case (I used a towel).
Thanks for the tips especially the wd40 one. I'll stay away from it in the future. I put the engine back together, no thread lock, and I should give it a try tomorrow.
Old 07-29-2010, 12:13 AM
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SAITO 180 WITH TURBO MUFFLER

Hi guys, has anyone got any pix they could throw up showing a Saito 180 fitted with a Turbo Muffler please??

I'm fittng my engine, inverted, into a Hangar 9 Taylorcraft and I have a wee issue working out how I can get my exhaust to exit the cowl without cutting said cowl up too much. I will probably cut the the firewall out more to accomodate the exhaust and get better airflow thru the cowl but I'd like to see one of these mufflers mounted because the only pictures I've seen have been on smaller Saito's that have the exhaust port more out to the side rather than at the back of the 180.

Cheers, Paul
Old 07-29-2010, 12:51 AM
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Yep,no WD40 as stated,for engines that were stored for very long periods and some not so long depending on oil type used or after run type that are very stiff/sticky/seized from congealed oil/corrosion soaking in a container of fuel mix methanol/oil for a couple of days is great at softening internal congealed/hardened lubricant,helps in removal of stuck/frozen gudgeon pin/s,lifters etc,some of those engines will need dissasembly for a proper clean/freeup and possible bearing replacement before putting into service.Always use seal top bags or containers and mark inlet and outlet to keep wear mated valve parts including lifters and rockers/pin and pushrods in order for re-assembly.If a twin do the same for pistons,rings,connecting rods,cylinders,etc.Always take note of piston ring location and which way is up,if not sure which way is up,shiny side on used ring goes down.Mark inside of piston for correct orientation,either front or exhaust,i usually mark piston boss with a small circle facing front,connecting rod dimple or bigend bearing bore chamfer to front of engine.
Crock pot with glycol works great for burnt on lubricant deposits that are normally dry as in exhausts,external case/head deposits.Cleanup the rest with cotton bud and acetone for bigend/little end connecting rod bore,rocker bores,cam follower bores,cam bearing bores,valve seats and bowls,pistons and boss bores and ring lands a cotton string to firmly fit in piston ring groove soaked in acetone works well placed around land held in one hands fingers while the other hand rotates the piston-work slowly,a piece of stiff cardboard wet with acetone to fit groove works well for stubborn deposits and a clean rag soaked in acetone to wipe out/clean cylinder bore and valve seats,a cotton string or small strip of cotton sheet soaked in acetone pulled back and forth through valve guides to clean if cotton bud wont fit and for internal case stains"silvo" a very fine polishing liquid can be used to polish out stubborn stains and dont polish bearing bores,just make sure their clean for square bearing seating.A scotchbrite(worn)pad is great at cleaning crankshafts,cam pin,lifters,rocker pins,gudgeon pins,throttle barrel (the cylindrical metal part),valves and valve stems go easy on valve sealing face and very lightly scrape exhaust valve stem initially with back of no.11 exacto to remove excess carbon before buffing with scotch brite.
Oil all parts when clean and seal back in clean marked plastic bags untill ready for reassembly.I use Mobile one synthetic 0-5 weight for re-assembly and does seem to work well so far for long term storage without breaking down and oxidizing.I have had to disassemble and clean engines that were previously cleaned and stored using air tool oil that gummed up.
Dont use threadlock compound anywhere in the engine except for possibly on Saito 72a/82a plastic back plate cap screws and lightly nip using low strength(blue)threadlock.
To remove and install valve spring/cap retainers on the saito i put my thumb inside the cylinder against the valve to be removed and use the index finger of both hands to push valve cap down,holding the cap with the index finger of the same hand that is holding valve with thumb and release pressure carefully the index finger of the opposite hand,the valve cap will very slightly cant and help lock the cap to valve stem.Having initially rotated the spring,cap and retainer so the opening of retainer is facing the index finger now holding the valve cap down.Using the same small tipped screwdriver that is magnitized that i use to remove the rocker shaft i remove the retainer from the valve stem,place your now spare index finger over the valve cap and slowly release pressure on valve cap.Reinstallation is a reverse of removal making sure valve retainer square or sharp edge faces up and rounded edge faces the spring cap.
If you dont have strong fingers or their to big you can use a broom handle or screwdriver handle locked in a vise and for recessed valves in combustion chamber,pack cylinder first to fill cavity with a rag so the broom handle/screwdriver handle bears fimly against the valve and you can use a small ignition ring spanner that fits around top of valve cap choosing a size that just catches the cap and gives room to remove retainer with your small magnetized screwdriver.From memory i think 6mm worked well,havn't done it that way for a while.To be safe do the valve retainer removal in a plastic bag as parts may decide they want to play hide n seek, there isnt anywhere for them to hide.
Old 07-29-2010, 01:20 AM
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For exterior case cleaning....

A good quick and easy cleaning method I've used is a cup of hot water mixed with a heaped teaspoon of dishwasher powder. Apply with a toothbrush to subborn baked on gunk and rinse off. Note... the dishwasher solution may dis-colour the alloy if left on for long periods, it is by far the best cleaner I've used.

I've not used this method to clean the internals yet but don't see why it wouldn't work just as well.
Old 07-29-2010, 01:46 AM
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The dishwaser powder is caustic and will discolor aluminum on a long term basis so be sure it is completely removed when done.
Old 07-29-2010, 01:51 AM
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Havn't tried dishwasher powder,will keep that in mind.
I do use granulated laundry detergent for final cleaning of alloy,larger model engine parts with an old toothbrush dipped into the detergent then scrub the parts using the hottest water my hands will withstand to rinse off then dry,blow out using compressed air all thread holes etc.Removes all traces of leftover residual oil/contaminents prior to oiling and reassembly.
Old 07-29-2010, 02:43 AM
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I have found the same with newer type degreasers that are supposedly more environmentally friendly that auto parts stockists only seem to keep these days.If not completely removed from aluminium alloy engine parts by "boiling" the part in water,in time you will get grey spots that appear randomly from the casing.No doubt due to the caustic agent in the degreaser behing held in the microscopic pores of the aluminium alloy casting.
I have also noticed that engines cleaned with this type degreaser whilst assembled etch the machined sealing surfaces badly by being wicked by the gasket
Old 07-29-2010, 03:02 AM
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G'day

I don't have a 180 but I do have a 120 in a H9 Cub with a Turbo Header. I think the 120 and the 180 share quite a bit of DNA.

Anyway ...

If it helps, here it is.

I bought a right angle adaptor but I did not need to use it.

Mike in Oz
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:24 AM
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Paul,

Here is another pic of the 180 with a TurboHeader. You can also view all the pics at our website. www.rcspecialties.net

Jim
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Old 07-29-2010, 06:16 AM
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Nice one thanks guys.

Hey Jim, how far out to the side of the motor does the adapter make the muffler go? and with the adapter I can angle the muffler backwards aye?

Cheers, Paul

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