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Welcome to Club SAITO !

Old 08-02-2010, 12:22 PM
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They won't do it. They can't fit the engines through the phone line.

Bob
Old 08-02-2010, 02:07 PM
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Saito just finished a 33% off on selected engines sale the end of June.

L.
Old 08-02-2010, 03:44 PM
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Thx Mike, it also looks better than carpet.
Old 08-02-2010, 04:24 PM
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I'm having trouble with prop spacing with my Saito .82 and an APC prop. I've previously used a Tru-Turn spinner and the back plate has taken up the spacing so the prop nut doesn't contact the non threaded part of the crank. On this particular setup I am not using a spinner. Any suggestions on how to take up the slack?

Thanks,
Phillip
Old 08-02-2010, 04:31 PM
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I've used two prop washers on the front. I have a lot of Saito engines so I have extras in the flight box.
Old 08-02-2010, 06:18 PM
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I guess I'll have to search for the correct size.

The problem is that I don't have any washers that fit over the non-threaded part of the crank. It has a different ID than the normal washer.

Phillip
Old 08-02-2010, 07:30 PM
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I have a Saito 82 here beside me with a APC 14 X 4W prop and the big part of the crankshaft is not exposed
Old 08-02-2010, 07:56 PM
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With the stock Saito washer, nut and lock nut assembly (part # SAI56135) the nut would bottom out on the smooth part of the crank before tightening down on the prop (APC 14x4). I found the solution by using a Tru-Turn nut washer assembly. It's the type that the nut fits inside the large ID washer. It's designed for use with their spinner. Clamps down secure though,

Phillip
Old 08-02-2010, 08:04 PM
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Please, I am not understanding how a TruTurn washer and nut assembly with the nut fitting inside the washer can be better than just a washer and nut. Doesn't the nut inside the washer put the threads closer to the unthreaded part of the crankshaft? Or is the TruTurn washer that much thicker than the stock washer that the offset from the unthreaded part of the shaft is greater?

Regards,

Richard
Old 08-02-2010, 08:25 PM
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All I can say is that I have this same setup on a 82 and the same prop with no spinner backplate and the fat unthreaded part of the crankshaft is not exposed. I use the standard Saito washer with a Dubro spinner nut

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...LXE161&P=7

Old 08-02-2010, 08:40 PM
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I started thinking about this and took mine apart.

What I'm seeing is that the smooth shoulder is right at the edge of the prop and I see that I'm on the verge of having trouble my self

The reason being is that the prop washer as previously mentioned by Mr Hoffa will not fit over the smooth portion of the crank

It is obvious that some sort of washer that is more or less machined to fit over the smooth portion of the crank is in order?


Old 08-02-2010, 09:50 PM
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Hello, I got a Saito FA-65 from a old fellow. The motor was longer time not running and do not like to run. The H-Needle was fully closet, so I like to know the basic needle settings, from where I can start.
I am new to Saito,s and 4 Stroke,s.
Tanks Manfred
Old 08-03-2010, 05:58 AM
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ORIGINAL: spaceworm

Please, I am not understanding how a TruTurn washer and nut assembly with the nut fitting inside the washer can be better than just a washer and nut. Doesn't the nut inside the washer put the threads closer to the unthreaded part of the crankshaft? Or is the TruTurn washer that much thicker than the stock washer that the offset from the unthreaded part of the shaft is greater?

Regards,

Richard
Richard,
Good question. The Tru-Turn washer is thicker and the nut doesn't quite go all the way thru the washer. These are very minimal measurements but the Tru-Turn will hold the prop secure.

My experience was that you can not mount an APC prop on a Saito 82 with stock parts. You need either a back plate or different washer and nut. My Master Airscrew, Top Flite and Zinger props all have a thicker mounting surface so it's an APC specific situation.

[link=http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store/agora.cgi?exact_match=on&p_id=tt0717a&ppinc=adapt0 717a0716a]Prop Nut[/link]
Phillip
Old 08-03-2010, 07:26 AM
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G'day

I have a 65 and several other Saitos. They will run even if they are way out in their adjustment.

I'd start about 2.5 to 3 turns open for the high speed needle. This should give you a quite rich setting. The engine should start like this but may stop if you remove the glow driver. Once you have it running, take it to full throttle then adjust the high speed needle to peak. You can then adjust the LSN and then go back to the HSN and richen it by about 200 to 300 revs to ensure you are not running it lean. You may need to repeat this process a few times to get it right. You will never get a really low idle until the engine has a couple of hours running under its belt.

The low speed needle is more difficult. If the engine will start as I indicated about, then the LSN is either correct or rich. If you find the engine will not start at all with the throttle about 1/4 open, then the LSN may be too far closed in which case I would open it 1/2 to 1 turn and try again. I have been given several engines in this condition that their owners could not get to run.

The LSN affects the HSN so if you have the LSN too lean, it can prevent the HSN from working to richen the mixture.

Does any of this help?

Oh yes, a 13 x 6 prop is a good place to start.

For fuel, I use fuel which has some castor oil and about 10% nitro. My fuel mix is 10% nitro, 5% castor oil, 15% synthetic (Klotz) and 70% methanol. You can use more nitro but you really don't need. If you do, you will get more power but you will use more expensive fuel faster.
Old 08-03-2010, 11:51 AM
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ORIGINAL: Jimmy Hoffa


ORIGINAL: spaceworm

Please, I am not understanding how a TruTurn washer and nut assembly with the nut fitting inside the washer can be better than just a washer and nut. Doesn't the nut inside the washer put the threads closer to the unthreaded part of the crankshaft? Or is the TruTurn washer that much thicker than the stock washer that the offset from the unthreaded part of the shaft is greater?

Regards,

Richard
Richard,
Good question. The Tru-Turn washer is thicker and the nut doesn't quite go all the way thru the washer. These are very minimal measurements but the Tru-Turn will hold the prop secure.

My experience was that you can not mount an APC prop on a Saito 82 with stock parts. You need either a back plate or different washer and nut. My Master Airscrew, Top Flite and Zinger props all have a thicker mounting surface so it's an APC specific situation.

[link=http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store/agora.cgi?exact_match=on&p_id=tt0717a&ppin c=adapt0717a0716a]Prop Nut[/link]
Phillip
I'm going to change mine and put a 2" aluminum spinner on it. The spinner back plate will move the prop foward and get the smooth shank back under the prop. My 82 has the front of the crankshaft shortened so I will have room for everything. A regular 82 crank would probably require a 2 1/4" spinner to have room for the adapter nut.

Old 08-03-2010, 11:52 AM
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ORIGINAL: Jimmy Hoffa


ORIGINAL: spaceworm

Please, I am not understanding how a TruTurn washer and nut assembly with the nut fitting inside the washer can be better than just a washer and nut. Doesn't the nut inside the washer put the threads closer to the unthreaded part of the crankshaft? Or is the TruTurn washer that much thicker than the stock washer that the offset from the unthreaded part of the shaft is greater?

Regards,

Richard
Richard,
Good question. The Tru-Turn washer is thicker and the nut doesn't quite go all the way thru the washer. These are very minimal measurements but the Tru-Turn will hold the prop secure.

My experience was that you can not mount an APC prop on a Saito 82 with stock parts. You need either a back plate or different washer and nut. My Master Airscrew, Top Flite and Zinger props all have a thicker mounting surface so it's an APC specific situation.

[link=http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store/agora.cgi?exact_match=on&p_id=tt0717a&ppin c=adapt0717a0716a]Prop Nut[/link]
Phillip
I'm going to change mine and put a 2" aluminum spinner on it. The spinner back plate will move the prop foward and get the smooth shank back under the prop. My 82 has the front of the crankshaft shortened so I will have room for everything. A regular 82 crank would probably require a 2 1/4" spinner to have room for the adapter nut.

Old 08-03-2010, 09:30 PM
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w8ye, i think i blew the gasket or oring at the carb or intake base like you told me. remember i told you i started my fa56 backwards last weekend? it started running erratic like you said so i took the cowel off and its wet with fuel around the intake and carb area? where should i get the gasket from? you wouldnt have one would you? lol thanks mark
Old 08-03-2010, 10:01 PM
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I went to the hardware story and the little skinny lady had a kit of Orings. I compared my old one with one in the box. I got several while I was at it.
Old 08-03-2010, 10:06 PM
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man your full of great advice!! or something i do have a oring kit!! so i hope im set? thanks again...
Old 08-03-2010, 10:17 PM
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A four stroke with a leaky intake manifold will be very frustrating and in the long run, be impossible to ever get the mixture right.

It will change to rich or lean on you for seemingly no reason at all

One that has run backwards for any length of time is a prime candidate for a burned O-ring at the intake manifold head junction

I took a Saito 100 apart this afternoon and I know nothing about the owner's experience. But I did notice that the intake manifold Oring was bad. The engine was torn down because it had bad vibrations. Appears the bad bearings to be the result of rust sometime back. The rear bearing had lost its cage and the parts got into the cam. Made a mess but I think I can save it. Didn't appear to hurt the crankcase or crank. The cylinder walls and piston skirt look OK. Cam and lifters are trash
Old 08-04-2010, 06:29 AM
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How do I determine if my bearings are bad? They seem smooth when turning the crank by by hand. I can feel an extremely small amount side to side play. The motor runs great but there is quite a bit of vibration at wide open. Yes, I did check the props balance. Yes, it was involved in a nose-in crash.

Thanks,

Phillip
Old 08-04-2010, 07:08 AM
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

Phil they make a different sound on flybye it's very noticable and if you are already rocking the prop to check..maybe a bent crank as you say you've crashed and i assume it's not running rich
Old 08-04-2010, 08:32 AM
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It sometimes will make a sound like two engines running?

Sometimes one blade of the prop will not have the same track as the other blade
Old 08-04-2010, 08:55 AM
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No weird sounds and the crank is straight. At WOT the needle vibrates so hard that it is hard to touch. It (.82) is on a new profile model and I'm using thrust spacers made of plastic. The same material that fiberglass squeegees are made of. The motor is mounted very solid though.

It does run great.

Phillip
Old 08-04-2010, 09:13 AM
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I have Saito 100 here on the work bench that a guy brought to me because of excessive vibration.

The bearings were absolutely shot. Parts of the rear bearing ruined the cam and lifter also.

I would say that this engine had a good bit of running with the bad bearings?

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