Welcome to Club SAITO !
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Crystal Lake,
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ORIGINAL: Kostas1
Guys i need help....
my new SAITO FA-150
does not have in the HS needle valve the usual feel....
something is missing...when i turn the needle valve in/out
i don't get the 'tik-tik' sound......
what am i doing wrong ?
Guys i need help....
my new SAITO FA-150
does not have in the HS needle valve the usual feel....
something is missing...when i turn the needle valve in/out
i don't get the 'tik-tik' sound......
what am i doing wrong ?
The pictures you sent showed some marks around the carb screws that lead us to question this engine, and the missing spring clip provides further evidence that something happened to this engine before you acquired it, perhaps a crash of some kind....?
Do you know the seller of this engine? Do you trust them? Hopefully this engine was not sold to you as "new in box"!
I would question the seller about the history of the engine and do a thorough check of the engine before you attempt to start it.

My Feedback: (16)

It looks like someone put a needle valve upgrade kit in it and buggered up the spray bar retaining nut with a pair of neelde nose pliers?
They forgot the spring clip
Being has they didn't have any wrenches, they may have the slit on the spray bar at the wrong angle too? Will it run?
The spray bar upgrade kit is $9.95 plus shipping and includes the spring.
They forgot the spring clip
Being has they didn't have any wrenches, they may have the slit on the spray bar at the wrong angle too? Will it run?
The spray bar upgrade kit is $9.95 plus shipping and includes the spring.
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ORIGINAL: w8ye
It looks like someone put a needle valve upgrade kit in it and buggered up the spray bar retaining nut with a pair of neelde nose pliers?
It looks like someone put a needle valve upgrade kit in it and buggered up the spray bar retaining nut with a pair of neelde nose pliers?
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ORIGINAL: mike early
Women shouldn't work on Saitos!
ORIGINAL: w8ye
It looks like someone put a needle valve upgrade kit in it and buggered up the spray bar retaining nut with a pair of neelde nose pliers?
It looks like someone put a needle valve upgrade kit in it and buggered up the spray bar retaining nut with a pair of neelde nose pliers?
(:>)

My Feedback: (73)
Join Date: Jan 2002
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Ok, I forgot the install of the cam gear on the Saito 1.70R. Does the dot on the cam gear go on the crank shaft gear at bottom dead center?
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ORIGINAL: rocketman-RCU
Ok, I forgot the install of the cam gear on the Saito 1.70R. Does the dot on the cam gear go on the crank shaft gear at bottom dead center?
Ok, I forgot the install of the cam gear on the Saito 1.70R. Does the dot on the cam gear go on the crank shaft gear at bottom dead center?

My Feedback: (16)

ORIGINAL: mschulz531
Yes
ORIGINAL: rocketman-RCU
Ok, I forgot the install of the cam gear on the Saito 1.70R. Does the dot on the cam gear go on the crank shaft gear at bottom dead center?
Ok, I forgot the install of the cam gear on the Saito 1.70R. Does the dot on the cam gear go on the crank shaft gear at bottom dead center?
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ORIGINAL: Craig 01
Crank at TDC,camgear indicator dot directly down.You can stick a drill bit,wire rod through the inlet cam follower bore with lifter/follower removed that fits perfectly in the lube/timing locater hole on the base circle of the inlet cam.Centre your locater in the lifter bore and place the cam cover squarely over its mounting on the case with crank at TDC.
Reply by W8YE
This is the way I have been doing it for years
However, with the Saito's with the flat plate cam cover it doesn't seem to work as handy as on the round cam cover engines. If you seem to have trouble, you can try the razor blade or Exacto blade stuck in the gear teeth along the side of the cover while inserting.
Find something that works for you
Crank at TDC,camgear indicator dot directly down.You can stick a drill bit,wire rod through the inlet cam follower bore with lifter/follower removed that fits perfectly in the lube/timing locater hole on the base circle of the inlet cam.Centre your locater in the lifter bore and place the cam cover squarely over its mounting on the case with crank at TDC.
Reply by W8YE
This is the way I have been doing it for years
However, with the Saito's with the flat plate cam cover it doesn't seem to work as handy as on the round cam cover engines. If you seem to have trouble, you can try the razor blade or Exacto blade stuck in the gear teeth along the side of the cover while inserting.
Find something that works for you
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ORIGINAL: w8ye
TOP DEAD CENTER
ORIGINAL: mschulz531
Yes
ORIGINAL: rocketman-RCU
Ok, I forgot the install of the cam gear on the Saito 1.70R. Does the dot on the cam gear go on the crank shaft gear at bottom dead center?
Ok, I forgot the install of the cam gear on the Saito 1.70R. Does the dot on the cam gear go on the crank shaft gear at bottom dead center?
Is it true that for small single cylinder Saito engines the dot is at bottom dead center when reassembling?
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The confusion i believe has come from your reference of BDC with regard to cam location/position.
Piston and crank location/position is referenced as TDC and BDC .
The cam position reference dot must be at the 6 o'clock position with centre line of cylinder with crankshaft/piston at TDC for that cylinder when reassembling.
To even out power pulses through the cycle on a radial cam time each alternate cylinder through the cycle,for the saito 3 cylinder that would be 1-3-2
Piston and crank location/position is referenced as TDC and BDC .
The cam position reference dot must be at the 6 o'clock position with centre line of cylinder with crankshaft/piston at TDC for that cylinder when reassembling.
To even out power pulses through the cycle on a radial cam time each alternate cylinder through the cycle,for the saito 3 cylinder that would be 1-3-2

My Feedback: (16)

Set your cam mark positioned towards the crank with the piston at BDC and see how great it runs? Then you will have your answer?

ORIGINAL: Hobbsy
That does not appear to be a brand new engine, the nut against the carb body has been wrenched on.
That does not appear to be a brand new engine, the nut against the carb body has been wrenched on.
I didn't get it ....?
Is there a problem with the parts that assemble the NV/carb ?
I also couldn't find the parts i need on HHobby,
but i located them at UK and will order the whole set.
It's truly a shame that HH don't carry such parts....


ORIGINAL: ZedHead
RE: The new 200 Radial
> Ok it's got the new cam covers anybody know the development history for this engine?? it begs a good gee bee r3
Thats just what I did with my 170 as you can see in this youtube video
[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6DVZRJDVZw[/link]
RE: The new 200 Radial
> Ok it's got the new cam covers anybody know the development history for this engine?? it begs a good gee bee r3
Thats just what I did with my 170 as you can see in this youtube video

[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6DVZRJDVZw[/link]
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ORIGINAL: Old Fart
I've heard the 325 radial on bundled flex pipes pointing out the bottom and they sound like a singer sewing machine at half pedal..thank God for keleo ring collectors especially when you throttle back.Thanks for the link and sound,looks like it hauls the mail mate.
ORIGINAL: ZedHead
RE: The new 200 Radial
> Ok it's got the new cam covers anybody know the development history for this engine?? it begs a good gee bee r3
Thats just what I did with my 170 as you can see in this youtube video
[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6DVZRJDVZw[/link]
RE: The new 200 Radial
> Ok it's got the new cam covers anybody know the development history for this engine?? it begs a good gee bee r3
Thats just what I did with my 170 as you can see in this youtube video

[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6DVZRJDVZw[/link]

My Feedback: (16)

ORIGINAL: Kostas1
Could you be more specific Hobbsy ?
I didn't get it ....?
Is there a problem with the parts that assemble the NV/carb ?
I also couldn't find the parts i need on HHobby,
but i located them at UK and will order the whole set.
It's truly a shame that HH don't carry such parts....
ORIGINAL: Hobbsy
That does not appear to be a brand new engine, the nut against the carb body has been wrenched on.
That does not appear to be a brand new engine, the nut against the carb body has been wrenched on.
I didn't get it ....?
Is there a problem with the parts that assemble the NV/carb ?
I also couldn't find the parts i need on HHobby,
but i located them at UK and will order the whole set.
It's truly a shame that HH don't carry such parts....

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...D=SAI450R3D84A
It has been linked to already for you.
What Hobbsy is talking about is that someone has already put this upgrade kit in your carb. They did it with pliers and ruined everything. It is a given that if they used pliers and left off the ratchet spring, they didn't know what they were doing and didn't install the spray bar correct either? There is a notch in the spray bar outlet that must be aimed towards the engine.

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Join Date: Apr 2008
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Okay, I've been messing with the cam timing a bunch on my Saito 1.00, and had posted about it several pages back. I've gone a couple of teeth either advance or retarded, and can definitely tell when it's wrong: only get high 7's/low 8k's when it's wrong. I just keep thinking there's more in this engine that I'm not getting somehow. Best I get is 8700 on an APC 15x6, running Byron 20/20. Just for kicks, I ran my Saito .82 last nite with the same prop, and it will spin it 8200. I am expecting too much from the 1.00? Seems like the tach forums all show more rpm for this prop on the 1.00...
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This is a great place for information on Saitos. I have Two 125's one 100 and an 82. I have just finished putting new bearings in my 82 and after putting it all together I destroyed my prop flange. I put my prop flange in the oven and after heating it at 325 for half an hour I went to install it and it was stuck part way on the shaft. My plan was to take it off heat it more and try it again. I damaged the thin edge with my puller. I have a new one on the way. After reading on this forum I will reassemble it in two pieces tapered collet first then the aluminum prop flange over that. I have since learned to research before jumping into something. I have a Hangar 9 tach that I cant get a good reading on my RPM's does anybody have any suggestions on how to properly use it or a better tach that wont break the bank. Thanks in advance