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Old 04-18-2011, 02:48 PM
  #19901  
FNQFLYER
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The metal mounts I use have taped threads in the ex factory, (OS and Saito) when I use other mounts (metal) I tap the mount and run screws through and secure on the other side with nylock nuts and spring washers (overkill but I have yet to loose an engine)
Old 04-18-2011, 03:43 PM
  #19902  
w8ye
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I drill and tap the fiberglass mounts

I use hardened hex socket head screws with no lock washers

Never had a screw back out or strip out.

Been doing it 20 yrs

The fiberglass mounts will even hold a wood screw without it backing out but eventually the heads pop off the wood screws sometimes from the vibration.

A wood screw will back out of a wood mount so fast with the engine running, you don't have time to get the engine shut off.
Old 04-18-2011, 04:07 PM
  #19903  
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ORIGINAL: w8ye

A wood screw will back out of a wood mount so fast with the engine running, you don't have time to get the engine shut off.
Ain't that the dadgum truth!! I remember firing an airplane up one time, and during the runup to make sure all was good, I started seeing these screws dropping to pavement below the engine...what the heck??? Couldn't get it shut down quick enough.

The saving grace was at least it happened before I took off! [sm=eek.gif]
Old 04-18-2011, 04:55 PM
  #19904  
N1EDM
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I need a little advice, guys...

I just installed a Saito 125 into my Delta Vortex. I had to turn the throttle around 180 degrees to work with the throttle pushrod (you guys can see where this is going, right?? [])

Well, you guessed it.. I started unscrewing the LSN instead of loosening the setscrew for the arm. The engine hasn't been run yet, but I am wondering.. was the LSN flush with the outer edge of the throttle arm, or was it recessed, a little proud of it???

Thanks for helping me out, guys...

Bob
Old 04-18-2011, 05:20 PM
  #19905  
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Yes, Up to a .91. I don't usually have to remove and reuse a mount, but I have no problem when I do. Have you had a problem with this approach?

Sincerely, Richard/Club SAITO #635
Old 04-18-2011, 06:03 PM
  #19906  
blw
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ORIGINAL: FNQFLYER

Let me get this right, you tap threads into F/glass mounts and then screw bolts into them. If so what is the biggest engine you do this with and how do you over come the reduced integrity of the mount each time you remove and replace the engines.
Yep. A couple have around 200 flights. The thing is the screw holes remain like new. No telling how many times I've changed engines. My largest engine is a 125. It sounds like the brand may be the problem. It doesn't sound right. I've used mostly GP and Hayes.
Old 04-18-2011, 06:54 PM
  #19907  
w8ye
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I've used the fiberglass mounts tapped for machine screws up through the Saito 150.

Right now I have a Ultra Stick 40 with a GP universal mount that has a Saito 62 but has had a Saito 50 and a couple different Saito 56 engines on it. The plane has well over two hundred flights. Same mounting screws. No locknuts. They don't loosen.
Old 04-18-2011, 07:58 PM
  #19908  
jessiej
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I have never had a problem with drilled & taped fiberglass mounts since they first became available. Never a problem, though I have used them for nothing larger than 1.08 2 stroke and 1.20 4 stroke.

jess
Old 04-18-2011, 11:04 PM
  #19909  
CustomPC
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

I also drill and tap the Great Planes mounts.

I've never had any come loose.
Old 04-19-2011, 02:38 AM
  #19910  
The Raven
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Default RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !

ORIGINAL: FNQFLYER

Let me get this right, you tap threads into F/glass mounts and then screw bolts into them. If so what is the biggest engine you do this with and how do you over come the reduced integrity of the mount each time you remove and replace the engines.

I've done this myself, albeit not with a Saito engine. Engine was a 61 sized four stroke. The engine has been out of the mounts twice (once to swap to a new fuselage). Provided the holes are drilled the right size the 'threads' seem to last just fine. I estimate at least 100 hours of engine time with this configuration.

I should point out this was the first time I tried this method, so far no problems
Old 04-19-2011, 05:30 AM
  #19911  
mschulz531
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ORIGINAL: FNQFLYER

Let me get this right, you tap threads into F/glass mounts and then screw bolts into them. If so what is the biggest engine you do this with and how do you over come the reduced integrity of the mount each time you remove and replace the engines.
I do this too...I have a fiberglass mount on my Twist .60...originally held a Saito FA-115. Replaced that with a Magnum .91FS (for breakin) and drilled/tapped new holes in the same motor mount at different locations. Still working just fine. When I get to the point of putting the FA-115 back on the Twist I will reuse the original tapped holes and I know they will be just as tight as they were originally.


Old 04-19-2011, 08:23 AM
  #19912  
w8ye
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I also have a Twist 60 that has had a 91FX, 91 Surpass II, Saito 100, and two different Saito 125 engines. These all have the same mounting bolt pattern but the four strokes were mounted farther forward, so there there are two sets of mounting holes. The plane has many flights. Enough to wear the original hinges out. But never any trouble with the tapped holes in the motor mounts.

And another note: I use a variable speed drill to run the tap through the holes, so it is a simple procedure. The threads are very well defined in the holes and look almost polished.
Old 04-19-2011, 09:21 AM
  #19913  
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I use a drill press set on the lowest speed, the mount material generates a lot of heat when drilling. My MicroMark DC powered drill press makes the same torque at stall as at full speed so it will drill really slow. If you use a #6x3/4" sheet metal screw I think it would hold a Mack 711.
Old 04-19-2011, 10:29 AM
  #19914  
w8ye
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I have a big Clausing floor model drill press and It is also set on low speed. But I tap them with a hand drill.

I've seen a lot of people using sheet metal screws with the 40-60 engines. I've never seen one break a screw yet.

I often keep a model several years and many flights before it's demise so I use the Allen head hard bolts even to fasten the mount to the fire wall. The blind nuts are a big factor too. Those that come with an ARF are so thin that the will bevel out and ruin themselves. I usually throw them away and get new heavier ones.
Old 04-19-2011, 11:21 AM
  #19915  
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I have been just drilling and tapping the motor mounts too, plastic or metal. the fiber filled plastics they use today can be drilled and tapped quite easily. Sheet metal screws sorta work Ok for a while, but eventually they start to get loose and won't stay tight anymore. I quit messing with sheet metal screws to mount engines with many many years ago.  Like w8eye, i use hex screws for all the mounting along with blind nuts as needed.
I like using a drill press to drill the holes in the motor mount too.
Old 04-19-2011, 02:56 PM
  #19916  
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ORIGINAL: lopflyers

Hey guys I just bought an used plane. The guy that sold it to me said it has a Saito50 4 stroke. Is that true?
Update, I took off the cowling today and was surprised, it is a Saito 62 4 stroke, brand new. Cant wait to fly it Friday
Old 04-19-2011, 03:04 PM
  #19917  
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ORIGINAL: lopflyers

Update, I took off the cowling today and was surprised, it is a Saito 62 4 stroke, brand new. Cant wait to fly it Friday[img][/img]
Lucky You.

The Saito .62 is my favourite engine. They seem to be the best running Saito, and that's saying something because all Saitos run great.
I run mine with APC 12x6 or 11x8 props, and occasionall a bolly 11.5x7 or 12.5x6.

Old 04-19-2011, 11:22 PM
  #19918  
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ORIGINAL: lopflyers


ORIGINAL: lopflyers

Hey guys I just bought an used plane. The guy that sold it to me said it has a Saito50 4 stroke. Is that true?
Update, I took off the cowling today and was surprised, it is a Saito 62 4 stroke, brand new. Cant wait to fly it Friday[img][/img]

Don't forget to capture a video!
Old 04-20-2011, 04:44 AM
  #19919  
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Sorry Bob I missed this yesterday, initially it will be about 1/16" in from the end of the throttle arm and end up about where this one is if not a little further in.
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Old 04-20-2011, 07:27 AM
  #19920  
blw
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My vote for best running Saito would be the 56. Maybe we should have a poll.
Old 04-20-2011, 08:12 AM
  #19921  
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Gentlemen:

I installed a brand new Saito FA-180 in a F3A plane (2x2) and would like to know from your experience what is the best APC propeller should a I use for best performance (Byron 15% nitro, 2 stroke fuel 20% oil). The instruction manual lists the propellers according to the type of plane (Sport, Scale, Aerobatics) but my experience from other four Saitos indicates that not necessarily those from the list gives you the best performance.

Thank you in advance for your comments.

Jose N.
Old 04-20-2011, 12:02 PM
  #19922  
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ORIGINAL: blw

My vote for best running Saito would be the 56. Maybe we should have a poll.
I really liked the Saito FA-65 GK myself. it was my first Saito and it ran remarkably well. I never had a problem with it.
I thought it looked really good at the time and the black paint job matched the plane it was on too.

Old 04-20-2011, 04:55 PM
  #19923  
N1EDM
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Thanks for that, Hobbsy, I would have had it set too rich.

I appreciate the answer.

Bob
Old 04-20-2011, 05:05 PM
  #19924  
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I had a Saito .65 High Cam engine. It ran fantastic. What does the High Cam stand for? just curious.
Old 04-20-2011, 05:31 PM
  #19925  
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More valve lift. The high cam lifts the valve a little higher, the idea being the engine can breathe a little better because the valves open more.


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